AMSOIL Metric Motorcycle OR Dirt Bike??

[Verminator]

Conventionals are fine if changed regularly. I'd do a hundred hours and doing 50 would be very conservative and make sure it stays clean. I see nothing but 4.5+ ratings for castrol go and no one says anything bad about it, no bad shifting or any engine/trans issues. I bet it's the same with motomaster 4t.

this is amazon canada and shows a 4 liter jug of jaso ma liqui moly 5w-40 for what looks to be a decent price?
https://www.amazon.ca/Liqui-Moly-Synthetic-Street-5W40/dp/B08CK7D2T3

Thank you! Yes, that Liqui-Moly IS a decent price compared to others for sure. A friend of mine uses it exclusively, and I'm sure I'll end up trying it eventually, but for now I'm going to go with Amsoil and see what all the hub-bub is about.

 

[Verminator]

Watch this video. The whole video is good. They talk about the difference between MA and MA2 oil at about the 12:00 minute mark and why there are different applications for dirt bikes and street bikes.

Awesome video! Thank you!

 

[Verminator]

OP, same recommendation based on the same question you asked in the other thread you started about this bike. Were you not able to get the answer you wanted in that thread?

Something that is shear proof, M1 10W40 4T or other that has shown through analysis to be shear proof. You are on the right track if you've nailed it down to Amsoil for the reasons you've shared. Curious, are the M1 oils not readily available north of the border at Walmart?

Cujet, good point about specific output. I was the one that started about the 20 horsepower and 15 ft pounds in the other thread. The numbers may not be big but it is working hard. With that said, this engine is in probably millions of bikes and clones of this engine in another couple million bikes as well in the grand scheme around the world where heat and abuse is just every day use hauling three people, a couple chickens and a goat back from the market.

Thanks for the advice. I DID go with Amsoil and we'll see how that goes. I'm confident it will be as great as everyone says it is. M1 is available in Canada and I used to be able to get it at a decent sale price, but it's nearly doubled over the last 4 years or so. I used to buy M1 for a couple of my vehicles and have used it exclusively in my Frontier and my kids Xterra. I used to buy 20 M1 jugs at a time when they were on sale for around $24.99. Now they are closer to $69.99 or even higher, so I still have about 2 0r 3 of the M1 jugs (for my vehicles) left and once they are gone, I've not got a huge stock of the Kirkland Full Synthetic from Costco that I've bought only when on sale for 2 of the large jugs for $29.99.

But back to the dirt bike, the Amsoil was more expensive than I've ever paid for oil in my life, but my son's Honda CRF250F only takes 1.4L per change, so I'm okay with that for now. It's a brand new bike, and it's not often you get brand new vehicles in your life, so I really wanted to try and make sure he has the best shot at keeping it in good shape to last him years into his adulthood, although I'm sure if he continues to enjoy riding, he'll likely want a larger one eventually. Thank your for your time and advice, I really appreciate it!!!

 

[Verminator]

I saw a video on this a while back, but can't remember where to find it now. It's with Lake Speed the oil geek visiting the Amsoil labs in Wisconsin and they actually answered this question. The Dirt Bike Oil is purposely made with slightly less "grip" for smoother acceleration off the line and is JASO MA and the Metric Motorcyle Oil is JASO MA2 for more "grip." One thing he says constantly that has stuck with me is "Application dictates chemistry." Therefore, you probably would want to start with the Dirt Bike oil and see how it rides. Then, if you still want even more grip, move your way up to the Metric Motorcycle oil.

That's great. Thank you. Now when you refer to having "more grip" are you talking about in the clutch???

 

[Verminator]

Virgin samples of oils you might find in your Canada Walmart that compare to Honda's oil...
Either one will meet and exceed your expectations...

View attachment 273630
View attachment 273631

Thanks for the comparison charts. I really don't know what I'm looking at as far as what is good and what is bad. All I know for sure is that for Dirt Bikes with wet clutches apparently the lower the moly the better, whereas in car/truck applications I think the higher the moly is better??

 

[TrialKid]

Thanks for the comparison charts. I really don't know what I'm looking at as far as what is good and what is bad. All I know for sure is that for Dirt Bikes with wet clutches apparently the lower the moly the better, whereas in car/truck applications I think the higher the moly is better??

here on Taverna Del Motor upside down same oil with Metric is (at the time he test them)
except the lower TBN , and the Antimony difference, and a small KV 40/100 viscosity

on both a bit Molybdenum exist, I will not say is low enough.

 

[TrialKid]

an oil analysis if you do on future will show if oil is good enough.

 

[kimmillard1]

That's great. Thank you. Now when you refer to having "more grip" are you talking about in the clutch???

Yes.

 

[tmorris1]

Thanks for the advice. I DID go with Amsoil and we'll see how that goes. I'm confident it will be as great as everyone says it is. M1 is available in Canada and I used to be able to get it at a decent sale price, but it's nearly doubled over the last 4 years or so. I used to buy M1 for a couple of my vehicles and have used it exclusively in my Frontier and my kids Xterra. I used to buy 20 M1 jugs at a time when they were on sale for around $24.99. Now they are closer to $69.99 or even higher, so I still have about 2 0r 3 of the M1 jugs (for my vehicles) left and once they are gone, I've not got a huge stock of the Kirkland Full Synthetic from Costco that I've bought only when on sale for 2 of the large jugs for $29.99.

But back to the dirt bike, the Amsoil was more expensive than I've ever paid for oil in my life, but my son's Honda CRF250F only takes 1.4L per change, so I'm okay with that for now. It's a brand new bike, and it's not often you get brand new vehicles in your life, so I really wanted to try and make sure he has the best shot at keeping it in good shape to last him years into his adulthood, although I'm sure if he continues to enjoy riding, he'll likely want a larger one eventually. Thank your for your time and advice, I really appreciate it!!!

I think he was referring to M1 10w40 motorcycle oil that is available at Wal-Mart.

 

[Nessism1]

As referenced in that Lake Jr video, the dirt bike oil is MA, which is better for the clutch if the bike is being ridden hard. Otherwise, it doesn't matter. Personally, I'd go for the Dirt Bike oil, if going with Amsoil.

 

[BusyLittleShop]

Thanks for the comparison charts. I really don't know what I'm looking at as far as what is good and what is bad. All I know for sure is that for Dirt Bikes with wet clutches apparently the lower the moly the better, whereas in car/truck applications I think the higher the moly is better??

You're welcome... either oil will meet and exceed your performance expectations because what ever small
percent of Moly employed it will not defeat a wet clutch in good working order... Mileage is chief factor that
determines when your clutch is about to slip more than any one additive...

If you wish high mileage clutch life then you have to invest in some
good old sweat equity... because at the first sign of slip it doesn't
automatically mean your clutch is tired and worn out or that your
clutch plates are wore too thin because you can Mic them to
determine serviceability and within the factory specifications...

Under scrutiny you'll find that your slip was due to normal
glazing and contaminates...

Inspect the friction plates for glazing... make sure you have plenty
of material to work with... your shop manual states clutch thickness
in thousands of an inch or mm...

First removed the contaminants with Acetone... pick a hard surface to lay
over a 600 grit black dry emery paper... rotate the clutch plate in a
circle... you're just busting the glaze... don't get carried away
remove too much material... You should end up with a friction plate
looks dull like a new one as opposed to a shinny glazed one... recheck
thickness...

Next check the pressure plates for bluing caused by localized heat...
make sure they are not warped... consult the manual for a thickness
range... now removed the contaminants with Acetone and wire wheeled
them to erased the blue and also to generally scuff up the surface...
you should end up with a dull surface free of Blue marks...