May not be obvious to the eye, but if you run your hand front/back along the tread you can 100% feel it. Do it on both the inner and outer tread of the tire.
Tires Roaring
- Thread starter MParr
- Start date
Not rotating in a cross will cause Feathering of the tread and will cause the noise problem you are having. I doubt it and be corrected since you have put so many miles on then . If you have directional rotating tires, which I doubt, then your option is to live with it or get new tires. Ed
Well obviously you don’t. But directional tires are made with extremely small leading edges of the tread blocks (“V” shaped) to try and prevent the uneven wear causing noise.
Although, this is a big reason why tires are moving away from directional and going more asymmetrical.
That was the point of my post - that the tires become noisy BEFORE the irregular wear becomes apparent.
Thank you sir. Your "real" expertise is appreciated here.
Might I ask, here are my 2 wd alignment specs.. What should I discuss with a competent alignment technician as the goal: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwj28Zbx2pzxAhWOQs0KHb5IDswQFjAAegQIBBAD&url=http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=34129&d=1404846034&usg=AOvVaw3-oleS6EBa4ixKOlxoGl6H
You can PM me if this is going off topic too much. Thank you.
My vehicle is described as: "This is a “Net Build” vehicle with only toe adjustments built into the vehicle. Some adjustments for caster and camber can be made by moving the subframes." https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/alignment-suspension-specs-2007-2011-jeep-patriot/ .....
Might I ask, here are my 2 wd alignment specs.. What should I discuss with a competent alignment technician as the goal: https://www.google.com/url?sa=t&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=web&cd=&ved=2ahUKEwj28Zbx2pzxAhWOQs0KHb5IDswQFjAAegQIBBAD&url=http://www.jeeppatriot.com/forum/attachment.php?attachmentid=34129&d=1404846034&usg=AOvVaw3-oleS6EBa4ixKOlxoGl6H
You can PM me if this is going off topic too much. Thank you.
My vehicle is described as: "This is a “Net Build” vehicle with only toe adjustments built into the vehicle. Some adjustments for caster and camber can be made by moving the subframes." https://www.brakeandfrontend.com/alignment-suspension-specs-2007-2011-jeep-patriot/ .....
That’s the thing, I don’t feel anything out of the ordinary on any of the four tires. I also don’t see anything out of the ordinary with any of the four tires. The car tracks straight too. Just a constant roaring from all four tires. I believe they are just %&*;( tires.
Yes, Toe is key. Don't compromise on toe. You can have a bit more or less negative camber as long as it's equal side to side... With some more negative camber you can even reduce the toe-in further and still get stability, and reduce cross wind sensitivity.
gathermewool
Site Donor 2023
Noises can carry and trick you into thinking they’re coming from here or there when they’re singularly located. The chances of all four wheel bearings being noisy is as likely as all four tires being equally noisy.
I doubt your front-to-back-only rotations caused this. Kind of sounds absurd when you think about. Extra noise, sure. Roaring, probably not.
Also, there are many different road surfaces. Does your noise change at all while on these differing surfaces?
Does the noise change when you corner the vehicle hard in a turn, one way or the other?
I doubt your front-to-back-only rotations caused this. Kind of sounds absurd when you think about. Extra noise, sure. Roaring, probably not.
Also, there are many different road surfaces. Does your noise change at all while on these differing surfaces?
Does the noise change when you corner the vehicle hard in a turn, one way or the other?
I going to make an appointment for an alignment. Will any competent alignment shop do or will it have to go to a VW dealership?
any competent alignment shop will, but with a strong emphasis on competent
If they're not that familar with the Tiguan see what I said above. Suspension/alignment-wise it's basically the same as any MQB-based VAG w/ multilink rear axle (GTI, R, Arteon, Passat, A3, S3, TT etc.). Toe adjustment on front as usual via threaded tie rods, excentric bolts for both toe and camber on rear. Check and set tire pressures before you take the car to the shop.
If they're not that familar with the Tiguan see what I said above. Suspension/alignment-wise it's basically the same as any MQB-based VAG w/ multilink rear axle (GTI, R, Arteon, Passat, A3, S3, TT etc.). Toe adjustment on front as usual via threaded tie rods, excentric bolts for both toe and camber on rear. Check and set tire pressures before you take the car to the shop.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
My aunt had a 13' VW Beetle TDI that she bought new, I drove the car a lot.
The factory Hankook tires on it were HORRENDOUS. They were so loud even at low speeds, it was like it had concrete tires like the Flintstone mobile. They started getting really loud starting at 10k miles or so.
New Pirellis fixed that.
The factory Hankook tires on it were HORRENDOUS. They were so loud even at low speeds, it was like it had concrete tires like the Flintstone mobile. They started getting really loud starting at 10k miles or so.
New Pirellis fixed that.
@930.engineering
Thanks.
Thanks.
Just about all tires get louder as they wear and age. But some brands/designs get MUCH louder. Had a set of either Kuhmo or Hankook tires on my 04 V70R that got dramatically louder as they wore down. ( I liked the Flintstones “rock tires“ description someone came up with before!). I thought it was a wheel bearing failure for sure, but replacing the wheel bearing did not fix the problem. New tires fixed the noise.
HMMM!
My buddy has the same tires(225-65-17) on his '18 Chevy Equinox 1.5T with ~25K on them and they're church quiet.
I think it may be the alignment spec on VW that may have a more aggressive negative camber in the front causing the tires to cup over time on the inside edges.
You mentioned that the tires are smooth across the tread but, check those inside edges of the tires more carefully as this may be your issue and not much you can do about it.
My buddy has the same tires(225-65-17) on his '18 Chevy Equinox 1.5T with ~25K on them and they're church quiet.
I think it may be the alignment spec on VW that may have a more aggressive negative camber in the front causing the tires to cup over time on the inside edges.
You mentioned that the tires are smooth across the tread but, check those inside edges of the tires more carefully as this may be your issue and not much you can do about it.
VWs don't use "more aggressive negative camber in the front" at all. From factory it's just about half a degree (again, front camber isn't adjustable). Rear is a different story though. I don't have them on hand, but the recommended value ist likely between -1° and -1°40' (-1,66°). Still within what's common. As has been said, you could reduce rear camber IF it's near the max permitted value. Only an alignment will tell.
Sorting through all the specs, here's what I pulled out for your vehicle:
Front Camber: -0.64° ± 0.27° (spec was ± 0.55°)
Front Toe: 0.20° ± 0.10° (spec was ± 0.20°)
Rear Camber: -0.61° ± 0.30° (spec was ± 0.61°)
Rear Toe: 0.20° ± 0.14° (spec was ± 0.14°) - in this case, the original spec seems tight enough.
They indicated the Caster was not adjustable - and I don't think that's important - HOWEVER, the cross caster is.
They indicated the camber was adjustable but implied that adjusting it required moving the subframe. So getting it right might require a camber plate or an eccentric bolt.
So what I would ask the alignment tech is what happens if the alignment is out of the range I indicated, We know the toe can be adjusted, but what about the camber? What will he do? If he says leave it because it's not adjustable, I don't think you want him working on your vehicle.
Folks and @CapriRacer in particular, I think that I found my problem. There is some inside tread wear on the left side of the vehicle. The noise became more noticeable when I rotated the tires from back to front. I got out my level and put it on the wheels. It appears that there is too much negative camber on the left rear.
@capri: So front camber is as low as I expected. Rear camber seems much lower than expected. Where are these numbers from? A quick google search suggests this rear camber (no matter if Euro or NA spec Tiguan II):
and for front camber:
That's quite exactly what I mentioned in my previous post. Not that 60' (minutes) is 1° (degree) according to ISO.
Not to be offensive, but I performed alignment on hundreds of PQ35 and MQB cars. I'm quite familar with whats common on them.
On a side note, there's no chance for using any eccentric bolts on front and there aren't any camber plates except pillow ball design for racing applications.
However I don't expect camber and caster out of range on MParr's Tiguan since he didn't mention any accident.
-1º 20′ +- 30′ | |
and for front camber:
-0º 27′ +- 30′ | |
That's quite exactly what I mentioned in my previous post. Not that 60' (minutes) is 1° (degree) according to ISO.
Not to be offensive, but I performed alignment on hundreds of PQ35 and MQB cars. I'm quite familar with whats common on them.
On a side note, there's no chance for using any eccentric bolts on front and there aren't any camber plates except pillow ball design for racing applications.
However I don't expect camber and caster out of range on MParr's Tiguan since he didn't mention any accident.
