Time to Trane.

[Cup of Joe]

Yes after only 2 months my Nordyne heat pump packed up, heat pumps anyone. My current split unit pump packed it up Tuesday, same day as NC's little winter storm, I've been on auxilary heat ever since.

I had my local certified Trane dealer out this afternoon to look over my system and give me a quote on a new pump. This is a very humid area especially being close to the sound so he wants to move the pump from the extremely humid location my current pump is sitting in which just happens to be within 3 feet of the dryer vent and ac drain to the side of my house where it will be less damp. He said he has replaced at least 6 similar Nordyne units with roughly the same years of service in the last year and he is not the only dealer I have heard similar reports from. Contractor grade heat pumps seem to last about 5-6 years in this area on new contruction.

Weighing my options I stroked a check for half the cost of a new 4 ton XR14 that will be installed Monday along with a new inner coil for my air handler and a new digital programmable thermostat.

 

[StevieC]

Get a system that is 1/3 bigger than you need and it should last at least 20 years... In our old house the one that the builder put in lasted 7 Years and the furnace/compressor gave up together. We replaced it with one that was bigger and it was still their when we sold 3 years ago.. Was over 20 and still going strong!

 

[Cup of Joe]

The old system was 4 ton and the duct work cannot handle a 5 ton system so going bigger even 25% is not feasible. I have confidence in his recommendation. The company is a certified Trane dealer unlike the original HVAC company I was dealing with.

 

[bonnie john]

make sure it's relocated out of ALL direct sun if it's a cooling only unit

if it's a reverse cycle, make a removable roof, so the condensing unit is shaded in the summer but can pickup some sun in the winter with the cover off

keep the coils clean of leaves, grass etc

hth, johnny

 

[Cup of Joe]

Heat pump, so its going to be providing heat and cooling. The removable roof sounds interesting, any examples?

I have no trees of any note worthy size since I had to plant them and the unit will be up on a salt treated stand roughly 2 meters off of the ground. The entire county was re-zoned in 04 after hurricane Isabel Oct 03. My house is now in a flood plane thus the need for a stand. Original unit is ground level, I have the only unit that is ground level because I bought 1st before re-zoning.

I should add the house faces do south the pump is going to be on the east side of the house so it will only receive a.m. sun, afternoon and evening it will be shaded.

 

[3Toyotas]

At least he's doing it right and replacing the indoor coil as well. Everyone take note of this cause it's very important, whether it's just an a/c system or heat pump. If your unit is over 5-6 years old, THE COIL SHOULD BE REPLACED!!!!!!when you replace the outdoor unit.

Most manufacturers provide a 10 year all parts warranty and/or LT compressor by doing it right.

If you put a roof above the unit, be sure it is 4-5 feet minimum above. It's important the unit can breathe really well. It's also good if the unit is set away from the house by at least 10" if possible.

Sounds like to me, the company so far is going to do it right.

Too bad it has to be a POS trane. JK They're okay as long as they're installed right.

Wow! 50% down payment huh?
We only ask for 25% down, balance upon completion.

Let me know how it goes, will you?

 

[3Toyotas]

Originally Posted By: StevieC
Get a system that is 1/3 bigger than you need and it should last at least 20 years... In our old house the one that the builder put in lasted 7 Years and the furnace/compressor gave up together. We replaced it with one that was bigger and it was still their when we sold 3 years ago.. Was over 20 and still going strong!

In most cases, this is NOT the right thing to do. It's possible you were undersized to begin with, but i don't know.

The most important thing is whether or not the ductwork can handle the additional size.
For a 4 ton system, you should have 16- 6" vents open for it to work properly. Or 8- 8" runs, 11-7", etc...

 

[Cup of Joe]

Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas

If you put a roof above the unit, be sure it is 4-5 feet minimum above. It's important the unit can breathe really well. It's also good if the unit is set away from the house by at least 10" if possible.


So if the unit is on a 4 ft stand and the unit is 4 ft roughly and 4-5 more feet I need a 12+ft high roof. Thats not going to work in this area with hurricane force winds. Maybe I should see if I can get one of Tranes weatherguard II topshields or simply the next higher model that has it. Although it wouldn't shade the unit in summer it would see shade from the afternoon on. Distance from the house is not an issue, I have plenty of room.

Quote:
Wow! 50% down payment huh?


Yup 50% down. Due to the economy they have been told to get half up front.

Quote:
Let me know how it goes, will you?



Will do.

 

[3Toyotas]

Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Heat pump, so its going to be providing heat and cooling. The removable roof sounds interesting, any examples?

I have no trees of any note worthy size since I had to plant them and the unit will be up on a salt treated stand roughly 2 meters off of the ground. The entire county was re-zoned in 04 after hurricane Isabel Oct 03. My house is now in a flood plane thus the need for a stand. Original unit is ground level, I have the only unit that is ground level because I bought 1st before re-zoning.

I should add the house faces do south the pump is going to be on the east side of the house so it will only receive a.m. sun, afternoon and evening it will be shaded.


A heat pump is the same exact thing as an a/c unit, but works backward during heating season. But they are quite a bit more money to buy as well.

This will be an ideal location for your pump.

 

[Cup of Joe]

Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas

For a 4 ton system, you should have 16- 6" vents open for it to work properly. Or 8- 8" runs, 11-7", etc...


I have 12 but I am not sure what size they are and not all of them can be open since there is 4 in the master bedroom, retreat off the master bedroom and master bath it gets over heated or over cooled depending on season. That whole area gets by with 1 vent open in the winter and 1-2 in the summer.

 

[3Toyotas]

Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas

If you put a roof above the unit, be sure it is 4-5 feet minimum above. It's important the unit can breathe really well. It's also good if the unit is set away from the house by at least 10" if possible.


So if the unit is on a 4 ft stand and the unit is 4 ft roughly and 4-5 more feet I need a 12+ft high roof. Thats not going to work in this area with hurricane force winds. Maybe I should see if I can get one of Tranes weatherguard II topshields or simply the next higher model that has it. Although it wouldn't shade the unit in summer it would see shade from the afternoon on. Distance from the house is not an issue, I have plenty of room.

I don't know if you really need a top shield of any sort simply due to the location the unit will be at. East side of home is THEE best place for it in the summer. If it comes on in the morning, it could be good as well.

Quote:
Wow! 50% down payment huh?


Yup 50% down. Due to the economy they have been told to get half up front.

Quote:
Let me know how it goes, will you?



Will do.


Just trying to give you some pointers on the install. Been doing it for 18 years now, and it's been great.

See my response above in the grey area.

 

[3Toyotas]

Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas

For a 4 ton system, you should have 16- 6" vents open for it to work properly. Or 8- 8" runs, 11-7", etc...


I have 12 but I am not sure what size they are and not all of them can be open since there is 4 in the master bedroom, retreat off the master bedroom and master bath it gets over heated or over cooled depending on season. That whole area gets by with 1 vent open in the winter and 1-2 in the summer.


Talk to them about this situation, and they'll be able to help.

I know that mainly in the summer time, it is important to have enough flow. Otherwise it can freeze up on you.

 

[Cup of Joe]

Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas

Just trying to give you some pointers on the install. Been doing it for 18 years now, and it's been great.


I appreciate it. If I had worried more about the heat pump in 02 I wouldn't be replacing it now. Live and learn.

Quote:
See my response above in the grey area.


Got it, thanks.

 

[3Toyotas]

Originally Posted By: 3Toyotas

At least he's doing it right and replacing the indoor coil as well. Everyone take note of this cause it's very important, whether it's just an a/c system or heat pump. If your unit is over 5-6 years old, THE COIL SHOULD BE REPLACED!!!!!!when you replace the outdoor unit.

Most manufacturers provide a 10 year all parts warranty and/or LT compressor by doing it right.

If you put a roof above the unit, be sure it is 4-5 feet minimum above. It's important the unit can breathe really well. It's also good if the unit is set away from the house by at least 10" if possible.

Sounds like to me, the company so far is going to do it right.

Too bad it has to be a POS trane. JK They're okay as long as they're installed right.

Wow! 50% down payment huh?
We only ask for 25% down, balance upon completion.

Let me know how it goes, will you?


Editing my post due to the 13 seer minimum mandate put in place by Bill Clinton.

If your unit is over 3 years old the coil should be replaced along with the unit. Otherwise you are wasting your money on higher operating costs, and decreasing the life expectancy of the unit.

 

[Cup of Joe]

The Master bedroom is closest to the air handler and has to many vents. Baby's room is furthest from the air handler and has 1 vent so of course to cool right now. I have been using a Honeywell radiant heater to keep it acceptable.

 

[3Toyotas]

Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
The Master bedroom is closest to the air handler and has to many vents. Baby's room is furthest from the air handler and has 1 vent so of course to cool right now. I have been using a Honeywell radiant heater to keep it acceptable.


Sounds like to me............the original heating contractor didn't take care of balancing (sizing) the system correctly.

Your baby's room can be fixed by simply adding a larger run in most cases.

 

[Cup of Joe]

This has all been really good information. If he wasn't changing the inner coil and you hadn't mentioned that it should be done when the outer unit is replaced I would be none the wiser.

Sounds like I will need to talk to them about the ducting as well. I'm not from the south, I lived in Utah for most of my youth and early 20's plus I'm hot natured so I prefer a cool bedroom. I've been back in the south for the last 15 years and I finally became more comfortable with the summer hummidty about 2-3 years ago.

 

[3Toyotas]

Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
This has all been really good information. If he wasn't changing the inner coil and you hadn't mentioned that it should be done when the outer unit is replaced I would be none the wiser.

Sounds like I will need to talk to them about the ducting as well. I'm not from the south, I lived in Utah for most of my youth and early 20's plus I'm hot natured so I prefer a cool bedroom. I've been back in the south for the last 15 years and I finally became more comfortable with the summer hummidty about 2-3 years ago.


I recomend you ask them what they can do to help. It will only make your system just that much more energy efficient.

It's nice living in Utah. Every time i go to St louis every spring time, it reminds me just how nice it is here.

I'm going to take a closer look at the unit you're getting, and i'll give you my opinion.

Later,

 

[3Toyotas]

I don't see the model # you said you're getting. All i see is the XL-14i and the XR-14. Looks like both come with either r410a or r-22 refridgerant. This is something to consider, as r22 will be phased out this year and every unit made from Jan 2010 on, will be r410a; and r-22 refridgerant will be phased out slowly at that time and the price will be going up quickly.
Looks like the 14i model is a little nicer and has a 10 yr all parts warranty vs. the XR which has a 5 yr parts/10 yr coil and compressor only. The XL14i also has the top shield you were talking about.

However, if your old system was r22, the lines would need to (or should )be replaced as well.
If you're going to live there for a while, 410a might be the better choice.

 

[Cup of Joe]

The mountains

the folks still live on the foot hills in bountiful right below the temple. In the summer the view is fantastic looking out over the valley from the deck but in the winter you can have the road leading to the house.

Plus you have to drive past bountiful high shool

student drivers. You can also keep the inversion layer or as the rest of the US call it winter smog.

I always enjoy going back no matter the flaws. They just shut'er down over the snow that wasn't.

Now my oldest has to go to school on saturday to make up the snow day that almost was.