Thoughts on Super Tech?
- Thread starter KennethH
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I got their "5000 mile" yesterday.
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I am using the ST Blend 5000 mile oil in my F150 now. Seems my truck likes it fine. No noise at all. There will be some NAPA synthetic on next change and Kirkland full synthetic after that.
I most always use SuperTech in my cars. I'm trying Valvoline in my Silverado this oil change to see if it makes any of the normal engine sounds a bit quieter. I had a Nissan Altima and for the life of me can't remember if it was the Pennzoil or Valvoline that made it a bit quieter. It was never loud and never had any mechanical issues but that oil change with one of those (hate that I can't remember) was noticeably quieter. I have full faith in SuperTech and am happy to run it. Have used it for many years in full synthetic in at least 5 different vehicles.
Interesting side note: AMSOIL dealers on YouTube love to push info claiming how great their oil protects by doing a tear-down of an engine that has run on it for years. I saw another video of one of a Civic that ran SuperTech in all of its oil changes and the teardown looked just as good as the ones with AMSOIL.
Interesting side note: AMSOIL dealers on YouTube love to push info claiming how great their oil protects by doing a tear-down of an engine that has run on it for years. I saw another video of one of a Civic that ran SuperTech in all of its oil changes and the teardown looked just as good as the ones with AMSOIL.
YouTube videos notwithstanding, it is still true that over the long run an oil with a majority PAO base stock is better at deposit control and oxidation resistance than a Group III base.
Agreed. Just think the difference between results may be something requiring precision instruments to measure rather than what one may expect after hearing a discussion of AMSOIL vs other brands. Based on the claims of many online, I'd expect a torn down engine to show significant wear visually if it didn't run AMSOIL, and perhaps to perform really poorly as it aged. When users get the same 200-300k+ miles out of an engine regardless of brand, it makes me think the significance of that advantage is less important than we tend to make it in defense of one brand over another, or in discussion about one base stock over another.
Yes, but you mentioned YouTube videos where the visual appearance is the criteria. You really aren't going to see visual signs of wear unless it was catastrophic, I've worked on (and rebuilt) engines that had pretty awful blow-by and oil consumption but still had crosshatch markings in the cylinders. The engine was worn to toast but visually it looked fine.
I never ascribe much validity to those videos though, one does not know if the vehicles were actually operated as described nor do you really know the OCI and operating conditions But I'll say I do trust those from a manufacturer (such as the ExxonMobil ones) way before I trust some random dood on the Internet.
For me it is good enough vs. outstanding. I think reputable group III based oils are good enough. But my vehicles/engines are my hobby, plus I plan on keeping a couple of them as long as possible, so outstanding is what I'm looking for. Not to mention the PAO performance qualities at extreme temps. Even if my engines never see those extremes, I like the extra margin PAO's provide. Two of my Jeeps, for example, see slow rock crawling conditions in the desert and then in the winter see some pretty cold starts, especially when going north to ski or snowmobile.
But I'm not an Amsoil guy. I think it is outstanding oil, and maybe one of the best. It is just too expensive for my tastes and I just don't like their marketing scheme. I like Red Line, too, and it doesn't have the marketing stigma. But it is still too expensive. So I go mostly with Mobil 1 EP. The 0w20 has a stout level of PAO base.
But I've got Supertech 0w20 20k flavor in my wife's 2021 Jeep right now, having replaced the factory fill at 4.5k. I'll do a UOA and bet it will look great after 3k to 5k. I may change it a bit early (3k) because it is still breaking-in. But Mobil 1 EP 0w20 and a Fram Ultra are on deck!
But I'm not an Amsoil guy. I think it is outstanding oil, and maybe one of the best. It is just too expensive for my tastes and I just don't like their marketing scheme. I like Red Line, too, and it doesn't have the marketing stigma. But it is still too expensive. So I go mostly with Mobil 1 EP. The 0w20 has a stout level of PAO base.
But I've got Supertech 0w20 20k flavor in my wife's 2021 Jeep right now, having replaced the factory fill at 4.5k. I'll do a UOA and bet it will look great after 3k to 5k. I may change it a bit early (3k) because it is still breaking-in. But Mobil 1 EP 0w20 and a Fram Ultra are on deck!
How does one know the PAO levels used in an oil? Serious question, I felt like years ago I read on here that certain weights of oil are likely higher in PAO base stocks to achieve the grade
ST is OK, I’m not sure about the 20,000 mile business, though-I’ve never been brave enough to run Amsoil, M1 EP, or even M1 AP that far. It would have to be all highway, and backed by numerous UOAs to even consider it. There’s an awful lot of “meets or exceeds” going on for my tastes as well, licensing would increase my confidence in it. WD is not THAT small…
Safety Data Sheets (SDS) will give you an idea. I think M1 EP 0w20 is 40 to 60% according to the SDS.
That may be true. I don't know. I do know that among the Mobil 1 EP weights the 0w20 seems to have the highest PAO percentage. It also has the highest flash point and lowest pour point, which is expected. The flash point is the suprise until you consider the high PAO content.
I can't bring myself to do extended OCI's. The closest I came was to run 10k OCI's in our Ford Transit van's Ecoboost 3.5. But I only did that with Mobil 1 EP 5w30. I did two runs of Shell RGT 5w30 but cut them off at 5k. The M1 seemed to do just fine at 10k in that engine. It took the beating well.
Someone posted VOA's of both full syn Supertechs and they looked identical. It didn't appear in the VOA that the 20k version had anything different. But VOA's don't tell all of the Colonel's secret 17 herbs and spices, either, I don't believe. Since they are priced so closely, I bought 1 round of 20k. But that was before I saw that VOA.
What does one look for on an SDS
Look at the ratings. That will give you a clue on the oils performance.
I used to, have cut back, due to FUD. I think if I had a diesel with a timing belt I might though, maybe even on a gasser with a timing belt--right now my FUD is due to fears about the timing chain wearing out. Less concerned about varnish, somewhat about rings seizing, lots about chain wearing out.
Go to the oil company's product page, such as this one for Mobil 1 EP 0w20. Then scroll down until you see a link for SDS. In Mobil 1's case, you'll have to download it as a PDF. Then look in the very top column, and it says Decene, Tetramer, and Trimer Hydrogenated and it says 60-
Edit....M1 0w16 EP is higer, at 70-
For comparison, M1 ESP X2 has 20-
Interesting stuff. Some don't publish it, so if it doesn't say it is there, it doesn't necessarily mean it is not. Although I think it isn't likely there would be very much.
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I had a weak moment and started to worry that there might be a shortage of [cheap] oil on the horizon, so off to Walmart I went. Very little Supertech on the shelves. Some grades completely missing. Bought a 5 litre 5W40 syn euro formula and a 5 litre 0W20 syn for $17.47 each. [$13.79 US]. They had a lot of Mobil 1 at $29.95 [$23.65us] for 5 qts. I can't see these prices holding for long. I didn't need any oil, I think I have a disease.
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