You're in the right place to talk about filters until you run out of things to say about them.
Thoughts on only changing oil filter every other oil change
- Thread starter rav
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Very common to change by calendar vs engine hours of fuel burn.
At least for Cummins stuff over 19L, almost everything with a Nanonet oil filter can go at least 500 hours-- usually much longer and almost never less that 500 if the engine isn't damaged.
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Until some of their engines started sludging up due to a bad design .
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I don't see an issue with it, unless you don't put the miles on fast enough. I wouldn't keep the same filter on for 3 or 4 years, especially with all the questionable glue they have these days.
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I'm not sure what's up with oil filter prices these days. It used to be like $4 and now it's like $13-$18 depending on where you buy.
Patman
Staff member
There are still plenty of great oil filters available for under $10
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Yeah, I never paid attention. Been buying the fram ultra for my cummins the last 10 years or so and they've always been the same $8.97 at Walmart, then one day I got tired of their poor quality and started looking around.
Siphoned out quite a bit, OLM was at 60% on five thousand miles, add Redline 0w30 approximately 1/5 qt, Liquimoly Mos2 and topped off with QSUD 5w30. Lots of fuel was removed. Have 7 qts of Redline 0w30 left, will use as additive to boost oil change interval, hths and performance but dont see myself buying anymore than maybe a qt to keep on hand after stash is done. Had timing chain replaced at 369K and just wanted to get any possible junk out. Will have a proper service in 5k so I can add Gumout Multi-system Tune Up at four ounces prior to drain. Needed to get rid of QS, I keep in car so if anyone stranded needed oil but today was 50 degrees so I decided "I" needed it 
I thought the ultras were good and the synthetic endurance were the ones that leaked atghe bypass. Or is it the ultras too?
Any filter that uses a metal leaf spring on a metal end cap, and the leaf spring is warped and/or has ruffles/ripples on the sealing area because people have lost the technology to stamp sheet metal smooth these days.
Not much in a modern car oil large enough to be removed by a full flow filter. Some never change it. They use bypass filters that do the cleaning.eventually the pleats will get rotten.Ive gone up to 65.000 miles The pleats were rotten but still in one piece.
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How long was it on for?
What's that really mean? Have you ever had an UOA done on an engine what uses no oil filter at all?
Some people never change the full flow filter and just put a bypass filter on? Who's doing this on what vehicles?
100 percent true.
I just changed the oil in my future SIL's car (Hyundai Ionic Hybrid at 135,000 miles). It came with a underbody panel with a removable cover for the oil filter and drain plug. I fully expected to not see the two covers in place. My guess was correct - both cover plates were missing.
The bigger concern was a leak from the drain plug and the oil level at the 1 quart low mark at 7,000 mile from Quick Change Shop (will have to monitor to see if oil loss is from leak or consumption). I expected a missing aluminum crush washer. When I could not remove the plug with my normal 3/8 inch ratchet, I used my 1/2 ratchet and still could not loosen the plug due to the drain plug being significantly over-torqued. I got a small section of wood to pound the 1/2 ratchet end which worked.
Sure enough the aluminum crush washer was missing. I suspect they lost the aluminum washer during the process and rather then replacing the washer they instead kept over-torquing the drain plug until it partially sealed. New crush washer joint with correct installation torque appears to be sealed after recheck after 200 miles.
Following up from a Quick Change Oil Shop I should have just been happy the plug was not cross threaded or the external 17 mm hex drive rounded off. I was pleased that Hyundai designed the joint with sufficient thread engagement too allow a significant over-torque without pulling the threads.
I then expected the oil filter to be over-torqued but to my surprise it was too loose. Even with an oil wetted filter can I could remove it by hand. I suspect the filter can was leaking due to not being torqued enough. After cleaning the area and correctly torquing a new filter, the filter area is dry after a few hundred miles.
The joy of following work performed by a Quick Lube Shop. I am sure some to the Lube Techs do good work.
Not much in a modern engine large enough to be removed by the full flow filter. Some people that use depth bypass filters never change them. The pleats can get rotten. I normally change mine every couple years . I wouldnt remove the old oil from the filter. I would leave it alone until I decided to change it.
I've moved to 6 month changes on my Civic, due to short trip city driving. Last change, the filter was removed, the old oil dumped out, and the filter reinstalled. No doubt, someone here will tell me I'm ruining my engine.
Full flow filters that are 99% @ 20u or better will still have a pretty good efficiency down to 5u ... so they are certainly removing a lot of debris in the oil.
That's crazy