Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

I just realized our 2010 RX350 is part of this club, my brain is metric; currently @ 242k kms. The outlaws gifted it to my wife circa 2014 with about 70k kms. They also just gave her their 2020 RDX, so the RX is going to be sold.

Our 2GR-FE has only had oil changes, a serpentine belt and an air filter; still with original plugs and coolant. Other than that, it needed a fuel cap, 4 years ago (intermittent CEL on) and a RR speed sensor (intermittent ABS/AWD/TRAC light on), which I finally got around to replacing a few weeks ago. The driveline also got regular fluid changes during our ownership with MaxLife and 80w-90 gear oil.

The only two disappointments have been the drivers seat, the leather is badly cracked, and the LR window weatherstrip would stick to the glass while opening, but I guess that's what happens when the vehicle is parked outside all year round.
Great engines. Unfortunately you’ll probably need those plugs changed soon and it’s a little bit of a pain to do.
 
Great engines. Unfortunately you’ll probably need those plugs changed soon and it’s a little bit of a pain to do.
Yes the GR series are great. Some timing chain cover leaks are popping up, but I think it's such a good engine otherwise that if you need it fixed, then I'd still get it done and keep on trucking, even if you have to drop the engine.
 
Not bad for a 2004 model year. The worst year to get, has 2 catalytic converters on it. Fuel mileage is terrible but **** it’s great to drive on and off road.
Oh the humanity! Nice job, wush they still made Mobil 1 Annual Protection or Mobil 1 Extended Performance High Mileage in a nice stout 10w30.
 
Yes the GR series are great. Some timing chain cover leaks are popping up, but I think it's such a good engine otherwise that if you need it fixed, then I'd still get it done and keep on trucking, even if you have to drop the engine.
It would have to be leaking pretty bad for me to drop the engine, but these are great engines..and honestly these aren’t that bad of an engine to drop. If I ever did, I’d change out the water pump, timing cover gasket and drivers side control arm (those are pain to get out with the engine in because of the mount).
 
It would have to be leaking pretty bad for me to drop the engine, but these are great engines..and honestly these aren’t that bad of an engine to drop. If I ever did, I’d change out the water pump, timing cover gasket and drivers side control arm (those are pain to get out with the engine in because of the mount).
Here's a good video on it. 2GR-FKS though.

 
280k miles, 5w-40 its entire life. 10-15k oci. Zero top offs between changes

Messenger_creation_5B92A302-DFC2-42A1-82A6-564FF1084A96.webp
 
To be honest its had everything from Mobil 1 to tractor synthetic oil. No particular flavor, but mostly Mobil 1. The engine is significantly quieter on startup with the diesel oil in it. Rotella t6 or Mobil 1delvac
That 2UZ will go forever and isn’t very particular about oil.
 
That 2UZ will go forever and isn’t very particular about oil.
The body is in pretty bad shape. She has had some farm collisions. My uncle is a paint and body shop and is gonna restore it for me. Rear end has either a pinion bearing or a axle bearing that is making a waw-waw-waw sound going down the road and the evap core leaks out a can of refrigerant every month. Im getting all that fixed soon then comes body and paint.
 
The body is in pretty bad shape. She has had some farm collisions. My uncle is a paint and body shop and is gonna restore it for me. Rear end has either a pinion bearing or an axle bearing that is making a waw-waw-waw sound going down the road and the evap core leaks out a can of refrigerant every month. Im getting all that fixed soon then comes body and paint.
Yeah I’m planning to fix mine forever. It’s a great truck.
 
1st year of the 1st gen (2003) Honda Civic Hybrid, 1.3L, 5MT.

I'm the 3rd owner.
First owner owned it from 2002 to 2015 and had everything done at the dealer based on the carfax, including the valve adjustment on schedule!

Second owner, my friend, bought it in 2016 with ~125,000 miles, and sold it to me earlier this year with 250k. He was too cheap to use the 0w20 it called for and just threw in whatever extra oil he had in the garage, usually 10w40.

Now it gets whatever mix of 0w20 and 5w30 is leftover from me servicing the other vehicles in my garage.

It's running well but the idle air control is starting to go. That part is pretty expensive ($300 from rockauto, $75 eBay) and I've just been driving without the A/C to avoid stalling at stoplights.
 
Great thread I’m approach 150000 with ford transverse mounted 3.5 where the $120 internal water pump is behind timing cover with oil on one side and coolant on the other side. The water pump is chain driven.

I watched project farm when he tested motorkote against water in the sump so I bought some to prepare when the ford 3.5 lets coolant into my oil. I thought perfect the coolant will leak into my oil and by the time I catch it my bearing hopefully won’t be ruined what a perfect product!

Anyone with the duratec 3.5 with internal water pump?
 
2003 chevy astro van 250k synthetic oils from fist change. Any brand with a rebate or store brand with cheap filter 3-5k changes. Never been apart.
2013 chevy equinox I4 engine 150k name brand synthetic oils mobil 1, Quaker State, Penn's 3-5k changes cheap filter.
 
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