4WD
$50 site donor 2025
What year model ?
Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in
- Thread starter Patman
- Start date
95 GMC at 155500, Son had it first to tow a travel trailer. It`s a winter beater/dump tripper, stays out side and needs paint. Trans freshened at 140000 with a performance kit. Conventional oil for 93000 miles now high mile Castrol 5/30 at 3000/5000. Uses no oil but plenty of fuel. Went through a nickel and dime phase last year but now is being good.
2014 Subaru Forester XT, currently at 185,000 miles. Purchased new in May of 2014.
Repaired/replaced items:
Front and rear wheel bearing have all been replaced. I think I am on my 4th replacement, 6 if you count the two right side wheel bearing that needed to be replaced because of a pothole. Subaru was kind enough to replace it when vehicle was still under warranty. They did not even ask what happened.
Trans. oil pump chain cover started leaking oil at around 90K miles. Engine has to come out for this repair since the chain cover is inside the bell housing. I was quoted $1,400 dollars by the dealer in 2019 to reseal it. I decided to do it myself in the span of 3 weeks working on it after work. Took my time to catalogue all the nuts, bolts, hoses and connectors.
Replaced driver side axle at around 150K miles since it started clattering when making a tight left turn.
Replaced radiator at around 160K miles with a CSF all aluminum radiator. The original one developed hairline cracks at the upper plastic end tank. Good thing I caught this one a week before my wife went on a trip to NY from MD, It gave me time to order the CSF radiator.
Warranty work:
Trans. valve body was replaced under the 100K mile extended warranty issued by Subaru. I was at 98k miles when the dash lit up like a Christmas tree due to the faulty valve body. If this happened after warranty period, it would have cost me around, if my memory is correct, around $1,400 in 2019.
Spark plugs were inspected, cylinder compression tested and the ECU reprogramed for LSPI issues on early production 2014-2015 Forester XT.
I am still comfortable about keeping this vehicle since all repairs to it have all been pretty well spread out, not overwhelming me to the point of thinking about getting rid of it.
Repaired/replaced items:
Front and rear wheel bearing have all been replaced. I think I am on my 4th replacement, 6 if you count the two right side wheel bearing that needed to be replaced because of a pothole. Subaru was kind enough to replace it when vehicle was still under warranty. They did not even ask what happened.
Trans. oil pump chain cover started leaking oil at around 90K miles. Engine has to come out for this repair since the chain cover is inside the bell housing. I was quoted $1,400 dollars by the dealer in 2019 to reseal it. I decided to do it myself in the span of 3 weeks working on it after work. Took my time to catalogue all the nuts, bolts, hoses and connectors.
Replaced driver side axle at around 150K miles since it started clattering when making a tight left turn.
Replaced radiator at around 160K miles with a CSF all aluminum radiator. The original one developed hairline cracks at the upper plastic end tank. Good thing I caught this one a week before my wife went on a trip to NY from MD, It gave me time to order the CSF radiator.
Warranty work:
Trans. valve body was replaced under the 100K mile extended warranty issued by Subaru. I was at 98k miles when the dash lit up like a Christmas tree due to the faulty valve body. If this happened after warranty period, it would have cost me around, if my memory is correct, around $1,400 in 2019.
Spark plugs were inspected, cylinder compression tested and the ECU reprogramed for LSPI issues on early production 2014-2015 Forester XT.
I am still comfortable about keeping this vehicle since all repairs to it have all been pretty well spread out, not overwhelming me to the point of thinking about getting rid of it.
Had a 03 Cavalier I bought new, and got ride of 4 years ago at 218000 miles. Sold it for parts as the underside was so rusted it wasn't safe drive, but still ran. Most oil changes in the 3-5000 miles range with whatever name brand 5w-30 synthetics were a good deal at walmart.
My 07 Nitro is at 242000 miles. Bought it used with 30k on it. It's mostly had Rotella T-5 10w-30 if I can find it. If not, name brand 10W-30 synthetics typically.
Over the years the filters have been Fram Ultras, Pure Ones, and some Mobil 1s, For the Nitro I'm working on a case of Bosch Distance + filters I picked up on closeout.
My 07 Nitro is at 242000 miles. Bought it used with 30k on it. It's mostly had Rotella T-5 10w-30 if I can find it. If not, name brand 10W-30 synthetics typically.
Over the years the filters have been Fram Ultras, Pure Ones, and some Mobil 1s, For the Nitro I'm working on a case of Bosch Distance + filters I picked up on closeout.
2014 Jeep Wrangler Ultimate purchased new June 2014. 177k miles. Oil and filter typically changed when the oil life monitor indicated 20% oil life remaining (about 6k to 7k miles on the oil). Oils used have been Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum 5w-20 from new to around the 140,000 mark and changed to 5w-30. Current oil is Valvoline Advanced 5w-30.
At about 55,000 miles one intake cam and all the cam followers were replaced due to bearing failure of one rocker. Other than that maintenance has been performed per the owners manual intervals. 30k mile differential oil changes and 60k mile Auto Transmission oil and Transfer Case oil changes.
This vehicle has really worked out well for me and I intend to keep it for a long time.
At about 55,000 miles one intake cam and all the cam followers were replaced due to bearing failure of one rocker. Other than that maintenance has been performed per the owners manual intervals. 30k mile differential oil changes and 60k mile Auto Transmission oil and Transfer Case oil changes.
This vehicle has really worked out well for me and I intend to keep it for a long time.
- Joined
- Mar 29, 2024
- Messages
- 52
Had a 2002 Ford Ranger 3.0 Flex-Fuel V6 that I ran up to 200,000 miles. 5K OCIs. Most oil changes were at the Ford dealer using Motorcraft 5W20 Synthetic Blend and Motorcraft filters. A few other changes were done at my local Havoline Xpress Lube with Havoline dino oil and Havoline-branded Purolator filters.
Sold truck to my best friend in 2012, who drives about 50K miles a year. Odometer broke at 243,000 miles. Truck started rusting apart two years and about 100K miles later. He has since transferred the engine and transmission into two other Rangers and racked up another 150,000 miles. Engine and trans are currently sitting in a garage awaiting installation in yet another Ranger. He usually runs Warren oils and Fram filters.
We're both astonished that a Ford motor and transmission would go a half-million miles on just routine maintenance, but here we are.
Sold truck to my best friend in 2012, who drives about 50K miles a year. Odometer broke at 243,000 miles. Truck started rusting apart two years and about 100K miles later. He has since transferred the engine and transmission into two other Rangers and racked up another 150,000 miles. Engine and trans are currently sitting in a garage awaiting installation in yet another Ranger. He usually runs Warren oils and Fram filters.
We're both astonished that a Ford motor and transmission would go a half-million miles on just routine maintenance, but here we are.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
2002 Honda Accord 2.4 engine - owned for over 18 years from new. 200,000mi + when we traded in.
Main oil used = Amsoil brand 5w20.
2009 Honda Accord 2.4 engine - owned 15 years from new. 228,000mi and still use it every day.
Main oil used = Amsoil brand 5w20.
Main oil used = Amsoil brand 5w20.
2009 Honda Accord 2.4 engine - owned 15 years from new. 228,000mi and still use it every day.
Main oil used = Amsoil brand 5w20.
2005 Toyota Sienna owned since it was new, passed 150K a couple of weeks ago. After the original factory fill it was Mobil 1 until a couple of years ago when there was no M1 5W-30 on the shelf when I needed it, and got some PP, which I have used since then. I have some M1 EP on deck for the next oil change.
It does not burn oil. Major work other than regular maintenance (including timing belt) has been power steering gear, radiator, and valve cover gasket.
It does not burn oil. Major work other than regular maintenance (including timing belt) has been power steering gear, radiator, and valve cover gasket.
2002 Honda Accord EX
Engine - J30A1
Trans - B7XA (Original)
276,000 mi
No add oil between changes
Engine
5,000 mi to 7,500 mi OCI
5W-20 SL Blend to 5W-30 SP Synthetic
Transmission
Honda DW-1 Fluid
100,000 mi 3x drain & fill
200,000 mi 3x drain & fill
230,000 mi 1x drain & fill
260,000 mi 1x drain & fill
It hasn't needed anything other than sensors, coils, oil filter housing gasket and normal scheduled maintenance items. It is weeping a little from a few seals and the power steering pump, but not enough to reach the ground.
Engine - J30A1
Trans - B7XA (Original)
276,000 mi
No add oil between changes
Engine
5,000 mi to 7,500 mi OCI
5W-20 SL Blend to 5W-30 SP Synthetic
Transmission
Honda DW-1 Fluid
100,000 mi 3x drain & fill
200,000 mi 3x drain & fill
230,000 mi 1x drain & fill
260,000 mi 1x drain & fill
It hasn't needed anything other than sensors, coils, oil filter housing gasket and normal scheduled maintenance items. It is weeping a little from a few seals and the power steering pump, but not enough to reach the ground.
Last edited:
Since I do not know how to read, I forgot to put in the details about my oil change details.
Engine oil used has been all over the place. Mobil 1 0W40, Valvoline SynPower 5W30, Pentosin Pento Super Performance III 5W30, Castrol Syntec 0W40, Valvoline Premium Blue 15W40, Shell Rotella Semi Synthetic 10W30, Amsoil European 5W40 and mixtures of left over oils from previous oils used for my other vehicles.
Oil change interval for the most part has been at 5K miles. There were a couple of times that I forgot about it and went 7.5K miles on an oil change. I never had to add any top off oil for the past 185K miles.
For the majority of the engine’s life, I try to always stick to Euro engine oils with an HTHS of at least 3.5 to take in to account the fuel dilution that the FA20DIT engine is known for. Currently it has Mobil 1 ESP 5W30.
CVT, front and rear diff. fluids are drain and filled every 30K miles. I might start to double this interval going forward since I do not tow with this vehicle any more, we will see. I might not be able to hold off the itch to change it.
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
The only real repair work I ever had to do with our 2002 was to replace the radiator at about 180,000mi due to a small hairline crack.
Other than that the preventive maintenance was that I replaced the timing belt about every 60,000mi. Also once replaced all the hoses and other belts plus spark plugs and brake jobs along with routine fluid changes... Car was still running great and not leaking a drop of anything. Interior looked like new and the paint was still very good from living its entire life garaged when not on the road. Pic is the car at 18 years old waiting to be taken in by dealership when we traded it in for purchase of wife's 2018 Accord ExL.
I wanted a 2024 Civic LX Manual, but I have limited mobility in my back so I settled for a 2025 HR-V (despite the CVT).
SammyChevelleTypeS3
$50 site donor 2023
We thinking of a CRV or maybe a Toyota Rav4 since wife and I both have back and neck issues. I have not had any issues with CVT vehicles.
02 Silverado 1500 5.3. 163k miles. Original motor and trans, had a hard life before I got it but still runs great.
- Joined
- Dec 28, 2014
- Messages
- 3,001
All those wheel bearing replacements are interesting, even after hitting a pothole to give you your 6th one. I imagine that is a relatively expensive repair…remove the brakes, disconnect the strut, get the axle out of the bearing, remove the bearing from steering knuckle…parts labor/im guessing $500 per bearing? More if it’s a press in bearing. That would bug me a bit. I used to own a Lexus LS 460, the wheel bearing alone was $600 just for the part. I could change it out in an hour but that was mostly because it was a RWD car (and I was replacing the front).
Nice job replacing the leaking transmission cover yourself! That must have been tough to do without a lift.
2016 Tahoe 5.3 180K miles 100% completely stock. Still runs like brand new!
220,000 miles, 2006 Honda Odyssey EXL. various oils and filters over the years. 4000-6000 mile oci. Soccer mom duty for many of the earlier years.
1 valve adj. @160,000
2 Aisin timing belt kits @ 95,000 and 195,000
2 transmission filters and drain and fills around every 35-40,000miles (Amsoil SS red cap)
1 valve adj. @160,000
2 Aisin timing belt kits @ 95,000 and 195,000
2 transmission filters and drain and fills around every 35-40,000miles (Amsoil SS red cap)
