Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

816guy said:
200k on a Civic with the R18. Owned since new. Used mostly Motorcraft 5w-20 synth blend and Purolator P1s at first, then when Motorcraft got greedy, switch over to SuperTech / Kirkland full synthetic 0w-20. Sometimes Bosch filters until they got expensive, sometimes P1s if I found them for a good price, Honda OEM filters, Fram TGs. I usually change it around 6000-7500 miles when the OCI gets to 20% or less. I did run it to 0% once. Essentially zero oil consumption ever in its life since new. I've never added oil between changes because it never needed it.

Did a valve adjustment a while back, maybe around 140k. Engine had zero varnish.
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I’m excited to hear someone else with good experiences. Have a 2013 civic with 245k miles. Engine and transmission run like a champ. Running restore and protect at the moment to clean up the engine then going to run some 0w30
 
I'm in. All trouble free miles.

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1990 Infiniti M30, 287k when sold, oil change spot 10w30
1987 GMC 305, TBI, 290k, Castrol 10w30
1991 Jeep 4.0, 297k not sure, kind of neglected, running 10w40 now
2004 tahoe, 5.3, 5w30, 190ish when wrecked
1999 jeep 4.0, 15w50, mobil 1, 330k running like a top when wrecked
1996 jeep 4.0 10w30 Valvoline HM, still running today like a top
2004 Tahoe, 183k, right now, Amsoil semi syn 5w30, runs like a top
2013 Duramax, napa 5w40\15w40, 290k ran like a top
 
My 2000 F250 Lariat Crew cab, 4x4, 6.8L V10 has 220,000 miles. Original drive train. Always had Valvoline Max Life 5w-20 or 5w-30. Uses a quart between changes. Regular Tranny oil changes also, 4R100.
 
I venture to say that most suburb / mixed driving engines with 150K+ miles that were spotless and did not burn oil had OCI’s of 3K to 4K miles using a good synthetic oil . That goes double for inherently dirty GDI engines .
 
Last OCI, just reached 170k miles on my Lexus CT200h. Still running strong and on my second run of VRP now. Was burning maybe ~1/4-1/5 a quart of oil before with PUP but noticed less during my first OCI with VRP. Gonna try a total of 4 OCIs per Valvoline's recommendations, then not sure after! Have heard good things about M1 ESP so maybe I'll switch to that afterward.
 
My parents have a 2014 Subaru outback with almost 168k miles that I’ve been changing the oil on. It’s their secondary car so it doesn’t get driven a lot but during the summer it tows their boat around so the engine gets put to use. I’ve got a quart of HPL EC30 in there that’s almost due to come out and it will be interesting to see if the filter has caught any dislodged gunk.

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In memory, the family 2001 Subaru forester that was 55 miles shy of 313k. Engine burned oil its whole life but ran fine, ran fine when it was sent to the scrapyard, the rear subframe cracked from a salty rust ridden winter life in the northeast. Oil was always kept topped off and the shortest change interval it ever saw was 6k miles, 7-8k miles was typical.

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2010 Impreza (EJ253). Bought it in 2012 with 52,000 miles on it.
I've changed the oil on it 13 times since then, every 5,900 - 9,400 miles (and 8 - 18 months), depending on use.
Used Quaker State conventional for a number of years, then as everything at WalMart gradually became synthetic, I've used Castrol Edge, Mobil1, and Pennzoil Platinum, depending on what was available.
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2010 Scion XD. 189,000. Various 15w-40 conventional, blend and synthetic. 15k-20k intervals.
2009 Mazda CX-9. 245,000. Various 15w-40's changed at 12.5k-15k intervals.
2006 Lexus RX-330. 325,000. Various 15w-40's changed at 10k intervals.
 
1995 Cadillac Sedan DeVille.

Bought from the 2nd owner with 95k miles on it. He'd owned it since 1998 and always ran Mobil 1 10W-30 oil.

We've continued with the Mobil 1 and AC Delco oil filter changes every 3500-4000 miles.

Just turned over 193k miles and going strong. Zero oil-related issues while we've owned it.

Electrical gremlins, not THAT's another story. Got WAY too much computerized stuff.....
 
2016 Nissan NV
218,500 plus miles. Runs well still and no leaks. Bought from beverage company that ran it hard. Oil changes were 5K miles according to fleet manager that sold the vehicle to me. Whatever 5w30 bulk oil and off the shelf filter was available at the oil change facility. I bought it and ran some of my stash oil in it for one OCI then put 4 OCI charges using VRP and ST or NAPA protec filter for 3,000 miles. Last OCI was NAPA 5w30 full synthetic on sale with Protec filter.
 
2008 Chev Suburban 265,000 miles. Still has the original radiator, water pump and heater core using Dexcool changed every 5,000 miles. Original engine and 6L90 transmission, transfer case and rear end. Original fuel pump and AC compressor. Alternator, power steering pump, belts, pulleys, transmission cooler lines, and oil cooler lines have all been changed.
 
2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee 3.6L V6 crossed 200,000 on Tuesday of this week. Had a new water pump at 198k and no other repairs to the engine so far. Has gotten dealership bulk oil changes mostly, but I switched to Valvoline Restore and Protect yesterday and will do that on my own from here on out. Eager to see how many miles she'll go...
 
Snagglefoot said:
2008 Chev Suburban 265,000 miles. Still has the original radiator, water pump and heater core using Dexcool changed every 5,000 miles. Original engine and 6L90 transmission, transfer case and rear end. Original fuel pump and AC compressor. Alternator, power steering pump, belts, pulleys, transmission cooler lines, and oil cooler lines have all been changed.
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Whoops. Changed the coolant every 5 years, not 5,000 miles. :LOL:
 
doublebase said:
All those wheel bearing replacements are interesting, even after hitting a pothole to give you your 6th one. I imagine that is a relatively expensive repair…remove the brakes, disconnect the strut, get the axle out of the bearing, remove the bearing from steering knuckle…parts labor/im guessing $500 per bearing? More if it’s a press in bearing. That would bug me a bit. I used to own a Lexus LS 460, the wheel bearing alone was $600 just for the part. I could change it out in an hour but that was mostly because it was a RWD car (and I was replacing the front).

Nice job replacing the leaking transmission cover yourself! That must have been tough to do without a lift.
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Yes, wheel bearing replacement can get expensive. Good thing these are full replacement hubs, nothing pressed in. I remember shop quotes of about 3 hours for labor plus parts. So yeah, around $500 to replace a hub assembly. Subarus are known for weak hub assemblies.

One rear wheel bearing gave me a rough time removing it since it was rusted in place. Used my slide hammer to try and remove it but was not successful since the axle hub/wheel flange slid off, but the inner bearing race, together with the flange that bolts to the knuckle, was still in the knuckle. I had to use my sawzall to cut those off so that I can remove it from the knuckle.

Since I do not have a lift, I opted to remove the engine to gain access to the oil pump cover.
 
2011 BMW 328 xDrive, manual.
Owning since 12/2019 with 80,000mls.
Had TMPS module failure ($300).
Of miles I put, probably 8,000 are track.
I just ordered radiator to preventively replace ($168) and it seems as 30min job.
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