Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

1987 Nissan Pathfinder - 218K miles.
Purchased used with 62K miles.

I've used M1 10W-30 and assorted brands of filter changed every 7,500 - 10,000 miles since I owned it.

It started to use some oil between changes about the 175,000 mile mark, maybe 1 quart in 4000 miles.

Did an A-Rx recently and it has Pennzoil 5W-30 and some #132 in it now for the rinse.
 
For Robbie Alexander with regard to our 1988 Toyota Camry with ~299,600 trouble-free miles . Yes, the auto is original and yes, I have done at least 3 (possibly 4 need to check my records) treatments with Slick 50.


1) The automatic transmission is so good in that vehicle. I have done a drain/refill every 30,000 miles since new; that is it. Never done a flush or anything of the sort. Don't even remember taking off the pan, but may have...simply do a drain/refill. I use DEXRON-III; usually Citgo, Valvoline, or Pennzoil. Don't think I have ever used the same brand twice in a row. In my records, I don't keep the brand of ATF fluid, just that I change it.

2) As for the engine and PTFE. Everyone was/is so down on Slick 50, but from my experience, it didn't do any harm. I am not saying that is why the car is getting ready to turn 300,000 trouble-free miles, but it certainly hasn't done any damage. It still doesn't even use 1/2 quart of oil in a 3,000 mile interval.

3) When we first purchased the car, I was doing religous oil changes every 3,000 miles (esp during warranty), but have since backed off a bit and done them anywhere between 3,000-4,000 miles....ALWAYS with Pennzoil (conventional oil).

[ January 08, 2004, 01:32 PM: Message edited by: Curtis Newton ]
 
quote:

Originally posted by Curtis Newton:
-*-*-[1) The automatic transmission is so good in that vehicle. I have done a drain/refill every 30,000 miles since new; that is it. Never done a flush or anything of the sort. Don't even remember taking off the pan, but may have...simply do a drain/refill. I use DEXRON-III; usually Citgo, Valvoline, or Pennzoil. Don't think I have ever used the same brand twice in a row. In my records, I don't keep the brand of ATF fluid, just that I change it.
---------
R:
Good. Good. Fantastic. Glad to hear. Part of that is a well built Tranny the other is the frequent changes and also in part to the "driver", all have a role.
As per the fluid, most standard fluids are okay.
Even the best (a least Dino) fluids are not that much better for the money spent IMO.

2) -*-*-*to turn 300,000 trouble-free miles, but it certainly hasn't done any damage. It still doesn't even use 1/2 quart of oil in a 3,000 mile interval..
----
R:
300K on an good import and a lot of domestics too is not that much a surprise to me. Trouble free, that is, anything over 200-250 usually has clutches or Alternator or something goes. The next 100K may be interesting. I've never heard of any car going that many miles, even on the highway without LIFE parking out in the back-seat awhile... but if you get there, great!!!

3) When we first purchased the car, I was doing religous oil changes every 3,000 miles (esp during warranty), but have since backed off a bit and done them anywhere between 3,000-4,000 miles....ALWAYS with Pennzoil (conventional oil).


An decent oil with 3-4K will usually allow this if you don't let the car sit most of the time.
 
quote:

Originally posted by Sumerduckman:
The much trashed 3.1 v6 ran great, did not use a drop of oil between changes, got 25-27 mpg avg, and was one of the cheapest overall cars in terms of total cost I have ever owned.

The 3.1 MPFI engine is great, simple but reliable.

I have a 1991 Chevy Beretta, 3.1, automatic, bought new in 1991. Currently at 313,000 miles. Has seen Pennzoil 5W30 or 10W30 EXCLUSIVELY its entire life, changed at 3000 miles (alright, a few 4000s in there too). Never been into the engine beyond the valve covers, but when I did replace the valve cover gaskets recently, I was pleased to see the cylinder heads, rocker arms, springs, etc, were clean.

Also I recently bought a 1988 Pontiac Fiero, and have changed the oil twice (again with Pennzoil) in the 1500 or so miles I've had it. Only has 91,000 on it now. The Beretta is the daily driver.
 
last car:
292,000 Miles 1985 Volvo 740, 2.3L four banger with iron block, alu heads, an engine that just will not die. The auto tranny just blew last fall, though, and so now it's retired. The previous owner took immaculate care of it, and the car must have seen a lot of highway miles.

The engine was in aging but almost in fair shape (hates cold winter starts), but there were various problems, such as the plastic on the doors coming off, and the electrical system having frequent shorts on one fuse, brakes and balljoints wearing out, so it was not worth getting it repaired.

Now I'm driving a sube with ~110K, it's a lot zippier than the Volvo.
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Another good reply from an LT1 f-body owner:

quote:

165 000 miles on my '97 Trans Am.

Mobile1 10W30 every 3000 to 6000 miles most of the time, tried Red Line once but only since it was on a great sale.... wouldn't pay full price for the stuff though.

The car gets 400 miles/week on the highway (35 mile trip to work), and has seen about 40 to 60 passes down the strip.

Original Optispark, never cracked open the valve covers, and have only done replaced plugs/wires/O2's/etc... Swapped in some new LS1 injectors last summer and noticed a small improvement, so I guess I should have cleaned or replaced the stock ones sooner.


 
quote:

Originally posted by Robbie Alexander:
I'm at where I am now at 398,212 miles with the cover open for a seal job and the pan off for a leak,

http://f2.pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/tbn15oilman/my_photos
Show some pics of Under the VC at about 341K
I'll double check my numbers, Just called to go to work so I have to leave.
Pisc are a little blurry, but should give the idea that not all dino's are bad.
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Well, I suppose this is a good day for a first-post, and a favorite topic. My cars range from 1953 to 1994 models, a few interesting ones are: 1981 MB-240D, 440,000 miles on a rarely-mentioned oil, Exxon XD-3 15w-40 with factory filters (important-the factory part is a cartridge with full-flow and depth-type bypass stages). This engine has an oil thermostat set at 190F. Borescoping still shows crosshatch in the cylinders, and in fact, the OHC looks like new, just a little polishing on the nose of the lobes. Oil use is about 1 qt. for a 5000 mi. OCI, if I make it that far, otherwise 6 mos.

A 1990 F-150 with the 300 cid. straight six has 210,000 mi., trouble-free, same oil, Fram HP-1 or Hastings filters. Oil use is again about 1 qt. per 5000 mi. Performance and mileage are same as new for both. Both engines are clean, clean, clean. Shiny, bare-metal clean, nothing in the pans.

An interesting import is a bought-new 1964 Austin Healey 3000, 167,000 mi. on original engine. This 152 cid. six was born during that transition period between monograde non-detergent mineral oils and early multigrades with questionable additive packs. The engine was broken in with SAE 30 ND, then DX-3, an SAE 30 diesel engine oil, at 500 mi, a Cat series 3 oil as I recall, and then to the 15w-40 versions of DX-3 or XD-3 as they became available. Some of the early detergent oils run in friends' cars of that time led to cam failures in less than 2000 miles, due to corrosive wear enabled by the detergent's stripping of the varnish layer from cam lobes. ZDDP and barium and calcium sulfonates solved that problem once the mechanism was identified. But somehow, through the dark ages of oil formulation, the little 600-plus pound David Brown tractor engine survived all that and runs great today, very clean and doesn't burn too much yet ( I think, but it leaks a lot-no rear crank seal, just a slinger). This car has always had oil changes between 1000 and 2000 mi, just something to do when the oil starts being visible on the dipstick. Most of these engines had to be rebuilt at around 40K miles because of loss of oil pressure and compression. I think that not taking a lot of expert advice, dumb luck, and very frequent changes of high-TBN oil pulled this one through.

A recent hand-me-down is a 1994 Buick Regal, 168,000 miles, oil changes at some quickie lube, details unknown. Needed Techron, also ran a pint of xylene and a pint of toluene to finish what the Tech started, runs much better. But here, I'm on less familiar ground, reluctant to use my old standby 15w-40 this winter in Texas. Any recommendations for this 3.8 L V6? What do these engines seem to like (5000 mi. OCI is preferable, so I won't have to write antyhing down).

Thanks again to all for the interesting comments in the forums!
 
I've got a 1987 Mazda B2000 PU with 158,000 miles on it, the owner's manual gives about 5 different oil recommendations (anywhere from 5W-30 to 20W-50, depending on weather) it's had mostly 10W-40 it's entire life, recently switched to 10W-30 Pennzoil high mileage with 4K changes, still runs good with no smoke. I've heard these little mazda
engines can last a long time, I sure hope so!
 
AVR8:
quote:

MB-240D, 440,000 miles

Wow, my parents have one (~200K), it's a really underpower beast! Do you know of any way of turbocharging or supercharging this diesel? is it possible?
 
Had a 88 Mustang GT ragtop with 223k+ miles when I gave it away to my newly licenced nephew back in '99. 2 months later he burnt the clutch and swapped it with another car
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IIRC, first OCI was about 1k, a week later drove cross country and back in 7nights/8days (~8k miles) on Mobil 1 10w30. OCI was 3-5k using mostly synthetic with Ford or Fram oil filter during the early days. There was a period(maybe a year) that I just used a shop to do the OCI(7k or more) which neglected to drain the front part of the oil sump and by the time I did the OC again, there was choco syrup draining out of the hole. The car did start using oil towards the end at 1 qt/1k miles but check oil goes off when its a qt low so I never bother checking the oil level, just poured in a quart or do an OCI each time the warning is on. I think I'm on dino at this point. Never did have any engine work done, except for the water pump and valve cover gasket.
 
quote:

Originally posted by DEWFPO:
Patman,

You've got a lot of real world data here. Are you planning on summarizing the results?

DEWFPO


I'm not really sure of how or what I could do with the final results. I'm not computer saavy enough to devise some sort of program to tally all this stuff up. Any takers?
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Only current vehicle with 150k+

92 Caravan ..3.0 no regular maintenance schedule throughout its life. Tried syth ..still drank oil after around 3.5k regardless of which oil used. Vehicle still delivers better gas mileage than it did new.

Former 150k+
77 Chevette 168k =vehicle totalled Mobil 1 since after break in. Went through 3 timing belts because of the lame dowel pin setup ..but the inside was a very clean "bronze". I also lunched the 4 speed in this POS.

My Mom's Citation 2.8 (78-80?) 220,000 maintained by her mechanic exclusively with Mobil 1 with ONE annual oil change and filters at the intervals. Only major problem was the "bike chain" in the trans stretched. Vehicle given away due to a shot headliner and UV dash damage.

Peugeot 504 Diesel wagon 1979 183k

Stollen from a mall parking lot - why I don't know. The engine was nice ..but the car was way too problematic to be called "reliable". 29 mpg regardless of driving style. 92mph MAX speed. The best riding car in the world. You could traverse mortor riddled fields with confidence.
 
My 99 Integra has 313,000 kms (about 200,000 miles) and has had a diet of nothing but Castrol Syntec of various weights since new. For the most part, has run the 5W50, and currently have GC in it. I change oil every 10,000 kms or so (6000+ miles), sometimes going as far as 12,000 - 13,000 kms. I plan on running this first fill of GC for 11,000 kms, then trying for 15,000 kms the next one and see how it goes. Doesn't burn any oil yet (have 9,000 kms on the GC and is maybe down 1/4 litre).
 
1986 SAAB 900 Turbo Convert(Rare); 250K miles, Valvoline 10W-30 dino @7500 intervals and still running strong . Original engine, auto trans and turbo with no problems. I just put it in winter storage last month.
 
Giant Robo: Underpowered is an understatement! Unfortunately, you're pretty much stuck with the 65 hp. Leave a lot of room behind you at stop lights, keep your foot on the floor most of the time, and enjoy highway cruising at 65. Glad to hear there are other 240s running, they can be endearing because of their reliability..they just won't let you down!
 
I'll post my Dad's last 3 company cars. He's in technical sales, used to put 35 to 40 k a year on them. '84 Olds Custom Cruiser (the big wagon), 307 V-8: 140 k from him, then Mom and 4 kids had at it for another 84 k. Sold because nobody needed it anymore. Wore out the plastic cam sprocket at 150k or so. Trans lost overdrive around 180 k, we kept on driving. '88 Ford Country Squire, 302 V-8 (yep, another big wagon) He put 160k on this one, then Mom and 2 kids abused it for another 48k. Was sold for the same reason as the Olds. Even the heated windshield still worked. '93 Plymouth Grand Voyager, 3.3 liter V-6. He put 125k on it, went through 3 transmissions, 2 under warranty. Mom and baby sis abused it out to its current 193k. The Aamco trans is still working. OCI on all 3 was 3k/3 months, done by Dad or myself when I was old enough and still living there. Oil was whatever brand name that was on sale, same with filters. Trans and coolant were serviced yearly.
 
quote:

Originally posted by dagmando:
1986 SAAB 900 Turbo Convert(Rare); 250K miles, Valvoline 10W-30 dino @7500 intervals and still running strong . Original engine, auto trans and turbo with no problems. I just put it in winter storage last month.

This one impresses the hell out of me, not only is the dino oil being pushed hard by the 7500 mile interval, but in a turbo no less! I'd never expect that oil and that interval to allow a turbo engine to go that far!
 
1987 VW Scirocco 16V 180K, perfect compression, no oil consumption, passes PA roller style emmissions with flying colors. 15W-40 diesel oil in summer, Rotella 5W-40 in winter. Last week i switched to GC , perfect for current conditions 7deg F.
 
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