'90 Olds Cutlass Ciera, 3.3 V6, 4 speed automatic, 180K. Drives round trip to work, 90 miles. Nothing but Pennz. purebase 5 or 10W 30, depending on the season (sometimes it does get cold down here in Okra-homa)and changed out every 3 to 3.5K. I'll say it, I did fall for the Slick 50 gag in the mid 90's. It had two oil changes with that stuff. Filters, whatever was on sale, UNTIL I joined this board. Not burning any oil whatsoever and transmission oil and filter changed every 50K
Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in
- Thread starter Patman
- Start date
I think for most cars out there, in average conditions todays dino oils are ok as long as you stick to the proper intervals. But for poeple like me with high revving, high performance engines, synthetics have their benefits. I also do track racing.. Regular cars could probably extend their drain intervals on synth to 6 or 10K miles so the cost would still be the same over dino.quote:
Originally posted by Last_Z:
One more thing.....looking at these posts makes you wonder if synthetic oil is really needed in many of our vehicles. Maybe the synthetic makers are hyping and scaring people to sell the more expensive stuff?
My dads Buick Regal with the 2.8L V6 had about 400,000km on it in 10 yrs. Regular oil changes since day one with either Quaker State or Castrol 5w30. GM oil filters mostly with maybe Frams too.. Engine still ran strong when he sold the car. If I knew more about oils back then, I would have recommended to him 15w40 in the summer since he did tow a boat with the car but the engine survived anyway.
1990 Mazda b2600i pickup with 164K miles. I have had it since 86K miles and bought it 5 yrs ago. I am sure the previous owner put in only dino and most likely 10W30. Since I have had it about 2/3 of the miles have been with 10W30 dino and the other third with 10W40 high mile dino. The brands I have used are mostly Castrol GTX and Valvoline Max Life and Purolator Pure One filter and changes are done at around 4K miles. It uses about a quart every 2600 miles but that is common for this engine as they usually lose it through the valve guide seals. No smoke out the back. Runs and idles just fine and still gives just above the fuel mileage ratings as long as I drive it easy. Gets mostly highway use. I opened up the valve cover about 2 years ago and it was quite clean.
Back in the late 90's I had a 92 Accord EX for two years. I bought it with 107K miles and drove it until 168K miles within 2 years. Always used dino (probably Castrol) either 5W30 or 10W30 and engine ran smooth as new when I sold it. Also had excellent gas mileage but I don't know if it burned any oil.
[ January 07, 2004, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: Robert M. ]
Back in the late 90's I had a 92 Accord EX for two years. I bought it with 107K miles and drove it until 168K miles within 2 years. Always used dino (probably Castrol) either 5W30 or 10W30 and engine ran smooth as new when I sold it. Also had excellent gas mileage but I don't know if it burned any oil.
[ January 07, 2004, 02:29 PM: Message edited by: Robert M. ]
1974 Pontiac Grand Am...
280,000 miles. (Or somewhere around there).
6.6 Liter Pontiac V8, with dual exhaust and 4 barrel Q-jet. (The options that year).
Er...its been poorly maintained lately.
Generally I use 10w-40 mobil1 (dino). There is no basis for this decision...its just whats always been put in the car, and till recently I had no clue about anything lubrication wise.
Cylinder #8 is currently at 50% compression, due to a bent exhaust valve. (Washer + valve = bent)
Rear main seal is leaking...but thats cause pontiac had that stupid neoprene rope thing on the rear main.
Might be doing a full pulldown and rebuild soon.
Tranny is a TH400 with a huge aftermarket transmission cooler...thats about 1/6th the size of the entire radiator.
(The car was used to tow other cars)
280,000 miles. (Or somewhere around there).
6.6 Liter Pontiac V8, with dual exhaust and 4 barrel Q-jet. (The options that year).
Er...its been poorly maintained lately.
Generally I use 10w-40 mobil1 (dino). There is no basis for this decision...its just whats always been put in the car, and till recently I had no clue about anything lubrication wise.
Cylinder #8 is currently at 50% compression, due to a bent exhaust valve. (Washer + valve = bent)
Rear main seal is leaking...but thats cause pontiac had that stupid neoprene rope thing on the rear main.
Might be doing a full pulldown and rebuild soon.
Tranny is a TH400 with a huge aftermarket transmission cooler...thats about 1/6th the size of the entire radiator.
(The car was used to tow other cars)
1988 Toyota Camry, 4 cylinder with automatic transmission. Original transmission/engine. As of two weeks ago, ~299,600 miles.
Regular (every 3,000-4,000 miles) oil changes with Pennzoil (conventional) 10W30 in summer and a mix of 5W30/10W30 in the winter. In the early days, I used Fram filters, but since about 125,000 miles, I have always used either Toyota OEM or Purolator filters.
The car has had treatments of Slick50 at 90,000 miles, 150,000 miles and again at 220,000 miles.
Recently lent/sold to sister-in-law, so I don't know exact mileage. Never perfomed a UOA, car runs so solid, never thought I needed it.
Regular (every 3,000-4,000 miles) oil changes with Pennzoil (conventional) 10W30 in summer and a mix of 5W30/10W30 in the winter. In the early days, I used Fram filters, but since about 125,000 miles, I have always used either Toyota OEM or Purolator filters.
The car has had treatments of Slick50 at 90,000 miles, 150,000 miles and again at 220,000 miles.
Recently lent/sold to sister-in-law, so I don't know exact mileage. Never perfomed a UOA, car runs so solid, never thought I needed it.
1993 Olds Ciera 3.3 Buick V6
first 80k, Pennzoil 5/10W30(depending on season) and AC PF47 filters at 4-5k intervals, 75% highway. Second 80k, Mobil 1 5W30 and M1-201(long case) filters at 10k intervals 60% highway. Last 10k, Pennzoil 5W30 and AC PF52 filters at 3k intervals. 170k total, car runs great, 150k compression test showed all pressures in spec. Leaks 1 pint in 3000 miles.
first 80k, Pennzoil 5/10W30(depending on season) and AC PF47 filters at 4-5k intervals, 75% highway. Second 80k, Mobil 1 5W30 and M1-201(long case) filters at 10k intervals 60% highway. Last 10k, Pennzoil 5W30 and AC PF52 filters at 3k intervals. 170k total, car runs great, 150k compression test showed all pressures in spec. Leaks 1 pint in 3000 miles.
1995 VW Jetta GLX with the 2.8L VR6 engine.
241,183 miles, no engine work ever needed.
Used bulk Pennzoil 10W-30 from Pennzoil Lube Stop quick change centers for the first 120,000 miles. Had about a 6,000 mile interval and brought my own VW oil filters to the shop.
From about 120,000 miles to 190,000 miles I've used Mobil 1 10W-30 with VW oil filters with a 10,000 mile interval.
From 190,000 to 241,183 I've used Castrol Syntec 5W-50 with 10,000 mile intervals and VW oil filters.
With the Mobil 1 I was using about a quart every 2,000 miles. This has improved to a quart about every 4,500 miles with the Castrol Syntec.
241,183 miles, no engine work ever needed.
Used bulk Pennzoil 10W-30 from Pennzoil Lube Stop quick change centers for the first 120,000 miles. Had about a 6,000 mile interval and brought my own VW oil filters to the shop.
From about 120,000 miles to 190,000 miles I've used Mobil 1 10W-30 with VW oil filters with a 10,000 mile interval.
From 190,000 to 241,183 I've used Castrol Syntec 5W-50 with 10,000 mile intervals and VW oil filters.
With the Mobil 1 I was using about a quart every 2,000 miles. This has improved to a quart about every 4,500 miles with the Castrol Syntec.
Have a 1995 Ford Crown Victoria, old State Patrol Police Interceptor, with 163,000 miles on it. Been running Castrol GTX, Mobile Delvac 1300, Mobile 1 for one OCI. Uses about a quart every 1500 miles. Oil is changed every 5000 miles. It is a "company car", so to speak.
1991 Honda Accord 4 cyl. 210,000 miles. Used M1 with 6,000 mile changes, and NAPA, Purolator Honda oil filters for the first 180,000 miles. Then gave car to Mother-In-Law. She gets El-Cheap quick changes at 6,000 mile intervals with whatever dino oil and filter the place uses.
No leaks and still uses less than 1 qt in 6,000 miles.
No leaks and still uses less than 1 qt in 6,000 miles.
1994 full-size Chev Blazer 5.7L TBI V-8 180,000 miles. I've owned it since 1995 and it's seen a diet of dino changed every 3,000 miles until last year. Two AutoRX treatments this past summer/fall, and it now has the German Syntec 0W-30 in it's crankcase.
It sits outside all the time and started fine yesterday with the outside temp at -5F. The fuel tank see's Schaeffer's Neutra occasionally and highway MPG is 20+ on 87 octane.
It sits outside all the time and started fine yesterday with the outside temp at -5F. The fuel tank see's Schaeffer's Neutra occasionally and highway MPG is 20+ on 87 octane.
In the distant past, I did own some GM cars that I put over 200K miles on them, but it was so long ago, I don't remember and didn't keep many of the maintenance details other than I used dino oils and Fram filters at the manufacturer recommended OCIs.
In the last 19 years the only car I didn't sell-off or trade-in before 150k miles was a '85 VW Golf 1.8L (85hp/98ft-lbs) that I bought new and ran it to 150K miles before I traded it in. Accelerator pedal was used in only two positions when I owned it, up...and...floored.
Used Mobil-1 5w-30, 10w-30, and 15w-50 with Fram filters (before I knew better) depending on season and where I was stationed at the time(I was in the military), and did 5K mile OCI. At 90K miles, I replaced the valve cover and oil pan gaskets caused they leaked a little and I like to keep my engines clean enough to eat off of. The internals we're spotless!! I was sold on synthetics ever since.
Right before I traded it in, I did a compression check and all cylinders were within spec and I never had to add oil between OCIs.
[ January 07, 2004, 03:44 PM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
In the last 19 years the only car I didn't sell-off or trade-in before 150k miles was a '85 VW Golf 1.8L (85hp/98ft-lbs) that I bought new and ran it to 150K miles before I traded it in. Accelerator pedal was used in only two positions when I owned it, up...and...floored.
Used Mobil-1 5w-30, 10w-30, and 15w-50 with Fram filters (before I knew better) depending on season and where I was stationed at the time(I was in the military), and did 5K mile OCI. At 90K miles, I replaced the valve cover and oil pan gaskets caused they leaked a little and I like to keep my engines clean enough to eat off of. The internals we're spotless!! I was sold on synthetics ever since.
Right before I traded it in, I did a compression check and all cylinders were within spec and I never had to add oil between OCIs.
[ January 07, 2004, 03:44 PM: Message edited by: 427Z06 ]
1995 Honda Civic EX-Original Owner-nearly 200,000 miles
Now with 199,833 miles (I want to roll the odometer so I check often......) It has had a life of dino and dino only. Around 125,000 miles of using Valvoline at dealer changes every 4000-5000 miles. The rest varied with Castrol GTX, Chevron Supreme (self done before hoopla on site-I liked the bottle/price) and currently Mobil dino something by independant repair shop.
Anyway the engine runs strong and never has been repaired or opened, just regular maintenance schedule per manual. It does not seem like it wants to stop. I will continue to use dino to see how long it lasts and no additives (Honda owner's manual says synthetic and additives not necessary and add to cost of running vehicle-seems to be true thus far).
I forgot oil used was 5W-30 as on cap, rarely 10W-30 if shop did not have 5W-30 and summer. One crazy place put 20W-50 into it???!
[ January 07, 2004, 04:02 PM: Message edited by: harper ]
Now with 199,833 miles (I want to roll the odometer so I check often......) It has had a life of dino and dino only. Around 125,000 miles of using Valvoline at dealer changes every 4000-5000 miles. The rest varied with Castrol GTX, Chevron Supreme (self done before hoopla on site-I liked the bottle/price) and currently Mobil dino something by independant repair shop.
Anyway the engine runs strong and never has been repaired or opened, just regular maintenance schedule per manual. It does not seem like it wants to stop. I will continue to use dino to see how long it lasts and no additives (Honda owner's manual says synthetic and additives not necessary and add to cost of running vehicle-seems to be true thus far).
I forgot oil used was 5W-30 as on cap, rarely 10W-30 if shop did not have 5W-30 and summer. One crazy place put 20W-50 into it???!
[ January 07, 2004, 04:02 PM: Message edited by: harper ]
I have a '92 Saturn SL2 that I have owned since it was new. Has been passed down thru 3 children. It currently has 186,000 miles on original engine & trans (I have done a valve job and 2 clutches).
Engine has had oil & filter changes at 3,000 miles.
Engine has had oil & filter changes at 3,000 miles.
152,800 miles on 84' BMW 318i when the odometer broke a few years ago,according to previous owner. Daughters car, never rebuilt.
Bought last summer for $20. Yes $20.00
Running Citgo 10w-40 with LC and a load of MoS2. Auto-RX'd for about 3000 miles based on trips to college and home. Stopped smoking after RX treatment. Oil leaks slowed too. FP used religously with 87 octane cheapo gasoline.
No heater fan, radio, air conditioning.......I believe in torturing my kids to center them for the real world
[ January 07, 2004, 04:25 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
Bought last summer for $20. Yes $20.00
Running Citgo 10w-40 with LC and a load of MoS2. Auto-RX'd for about 3000 miles based on trips to college and home. Stopped smoking after RX treatment. Oil leaks slowed too. FP used religously with 87 octane cheapo gasoline.
No heater fan, radio, air conditioning.......I believe in torturing my kids to center them for the real world
[ January 07, 2004, 04:25 PM: Message edited by: Terry ]
1990 Audi 100 - 2.3L, five cylinder engine, with 213,000 miles ....
Annual oil changes since new, with an average of 16,400 miles between drains. Currently running the S2000, 20w-50 year round ....
Doesn't burn any oil, but I do have an (original) oil pan gasket leak that is a pain to correct, as you have to drop the subframe. Leak has been almost completely stopped with a double AutoRX treat.
Annual oil changes since new, with an average of 16,400 miles between drains. Currently running the S2000, 20w-50 year round ....
Doesn't burn any oil, but I do have an (original) oil pan gasket leak that is a pain to correct, as you have to drop the subframe. Leak has been almost completely stopped with a double AutoRX treat.
This is my first reply to this board, but I have been a visitor for many months.
Bought new a 1989 s-10 Blazer with 4.3 2wd. Every 3 months changed oil with Havoline 10w-30 and have always used a delco pf-52 filter. It now has 151,000 miles and is still going strong. Replaced the starter and have had to replace the digital dash 3 times. It is now my 17 year-olds' daughter's car, which she uses to go to school every day. By the way, I have been changing oil since 1975 and still use the original oil change pan. Bobistheoilguy is great!
Bought new a 1989 s-10 Blazer with 4.3 2wd. Every 3 months changed oil with Havoline 10w-30 and have always used a delco pf-52 filter. It now has 151,000 miles and is still going strong. Replaced the starter and have had to replace the digital dash 3 times. It is now my 17 year-olds' daughter's car, which she uses to go to school every day. By the way, I have been changing oil since 1975 and still use the original oil change pan. Bobistheoilguy is great!
Three years ago I sold a 1972 Olds Cutlass 350 CID. I purchaced this in Oct. 1971. I sold it a little over 3 years ago, with 367,000 on the vehicle. The engine was all original internally except for 2 timing chain sets (metal). This vehicle started its life on Castrol Grand Prix oil, 20w/40 (anyone hear of this oil) This was on the shelves in the late 60's, and early 70's. A few years on that changed at a max. of 1k, to 1.5k miles. I tried STP oil (not the additive) for a few changes in the early 1970's, I only saw it on the shelves in one auto parts store, and I bought a number of cases of it. This was advertized as a long life oil. I never left it in past about 2.500 miles though. Through the mid to late 70's I tried Mobil 1 5W/20 a few times draining it about 3,000, and then going back to petroleum on and off. 1980's mostly Mobil 1 drained at 6 month intervals. About 1990 I discovered Amsoil. I started using it when the car had 212,000 miles on it. I started with the ATM 10w/30. But after a few years I switched to ARO 20w/50, because my guages showed lower that original oil pressure, no doubt from out of specs. main, and rod bearings. The 20w/50 did raise the oil pressure, mainly at idle during hot weather. I continued to use this oil at 1 year intervals, (filter at 6 months) until I sold it with 367,000 miles. The new owner still did not replace main and rod bearingsas I told him to. He only has 25 psi oil pressure hot at cruising speed, and and about 7 psi hot idling, but no knocks, he decided to leave along and drive till a problem. He babies it, only cruises to work on the highway. There was never any oil consumption on this engine. He claims he adds a quart about every 3,500 miles, he changes filters every 4 months, and tops off the oil. Although I never did an analysis on this engines oil, I wish I had just to have seen the results. Recently I have had a Nissan NX 1600 with 190,000. Amsoil ATM, and AMO used new until sold 1 year ago. Also, had a 1989 Nissan 240SX with 150 something thousand on it before being sold recently. The Nissan Nx, I had since new, but the 240SX I was second owner, the previous owner used only Mobil 1, I got it with 108,000 and started on Amsoil TSO 0w/30 on yearly drain. Neither of the Nissan's ever needed makeup oil. I guess the 240 SX was pampered before I bought it.
96 Geo Metro 1.3 4cyl 5sp, bought new 75%hiway driving, OBERG oil filter since new, oil changed every 200hrs per hr meter(approx 8000/8400miles) first 100thou re-refined 10/30 oil while avail than 5/30 Texaco/Chevron on sale.
Sold to coworker at(removed OBERG) 216thou miles still using no oil between changes.Today 240thou + still no oil between changes but valve train getting louder. Orignal clutch, rear brake shoes. Only major engine work was timing belts(100thou each) and water pump at 198thou(Texaco DexCool when new changed with each belt).
Sold to coworker at(removed OBERG) 216thou miles still using no oil between changes.Today 240thou + still no oil between changes but valve train getting louder. Orignal clutch, rear brake shoes. Only major engine work was timing belts(100thou each) and water pump at 198thou(Texaco DexCool when new changed with each belt).
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