Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in
- Thread starter Patman
- Start date
1992 Dodge Daytona Iroc Mitsu 3.0 V6 230K Miles. (put new head gaskets on it)
~30 MPG on the Highway STILL!!!
~30 MPG on the Highway STILL!!!
1993 F-150 4.9-I6.Had 30,000 miles when I bought it in 1995.Now has 165,000 miles.Have always used Havoline 10-40 and FL-1A filter from Wal-Mart.Change oil every 4000 miles.Still going strong.No excess oil useage.
Great thread...also kind of therapeutic!
Just an observation: Haven't heard of many using havoline engine oil, though it does seem to be viewed as such a value around here, both in price and moly containing add-pack effectiveness. But then not everyone changes there own oil, so one has to deal with the quick lubes options - seeming to be castrol, pennzoil, valvoline or mobil. Marketing also.
Interesting.
Just an observation: Haven't heard of many using havoline engine oil, though it does seem to be viewed as such a value around here, both in price and moly containing add-pack effectiveness. But then not everyone changes there own oil, so one has to deal with the quick lubes options - seeming to be castrol, pennzoil, valvoline or mobil. Marketing also.
Interesting.
I have a '99 Mercury Mystique with the Duratec 2.5 liter V-6 engine and 193,000 miles on it. Oil changes every 3,000 miles at the dealer, with 5W30 dealer bulk oil and Motorcraft filter. Doesn't use a drop of oil between changes, doesn't drip a bit either. I hope to run it to at least 250,000 miles, if not 300,000.
Prior to this car, I had a '84 BMW 325e, purchased new, and I had 253,000 miles on it, and the motor ran like new, did not burn oil. Oil changes every 3,000 miles Pennzoil 10W40 and FRAM filters.
Prior to this car, I had a '84 BMW 325e, purchased new, and I had 253,000 miles on it, and the motor ran like new, did not burn oil. Oil changes every 3,000 miles Pennzoil 10W40 and FRAM filters.
98 Mazda Protege, 1.5l Z5, auto, bought new, 208k currently. OCI 3-5k early on with Castrol GTX 10W30 and usually a Fram filter done by me. Replaced timing belt, rear main seal, and exhaust manifold. Now Havoline 10W30 or Rotella 10W30 and Wix or Puraltor filter w/4k OCI after 2 ARX treatments and tranny ARX treatment. Slightly rough idle in gear while stopped only annoyance typical of this model. Also using FP60 and LC20 for the past two months. Very nice underpowered people mover with great mpg.
81 VW Rabbit, 4spd, bought new, traded in at 215k in 1990 with severe compression loss. Just worn out. Same Castrol and Fram routine as above except 20W50 used later. My favorite car.
90 Mazda 323 1.8l, auto, bought new. Castrol/ Fram routine. Hit 210k in 1998 before trading in with piston failure due to not changing plugs often enough. I'm learning.
94 Ford Escort Wagon, 1.9l, auto, bought new. Got to 198k in 2002 before trashing transmission from failure to address CV joint repair. Castrol/Fram/3-5k OCI. Is there a pattern here?
Had I known then what I've picked here and on a few other boards I'd guess some of these cars would still be running.
81 VW Rabbit, 4spd, bought new, traded in at 215k in 1990 with severe compression loss. Just worn out. Same Castrol and Fram routine as above except 20W50 used later. My favorite car.
90 Mazda 323 1.8l, auto, bought new. Castrol/ Fram routine. Hit 210k in 1998 before trading in with piston failure due to not changing plugs often enough. I'm learning.
94 Ford Escort Wagon, 1.9l, auto, bought new. Got to 198k in 2002 before trashing transmission from failure to address CV joint repair. Castrol/Fram/3-5k OCI. Is there a pattern here?
Had I known then what I've picked here and on a few other boards I'd guess some of these cars would still be running.
Bought a 95 Ford E-350 with a 350 V-8 in 1997 with 120,000 on the engine. I ran Amsoil 0-30 series 2000 until 240,000 then sold it. Although I went threw two water pumps, a fuel pump, alternator, and other parts,the engine never burned oil, and ran extremely well.
I was ready to order a new 04 E-350 with a 6.0 diesel when a friend told me to look at the Dodge Sprinters. One test drive was all it took. I now run 9 qts T&SUV, 1 qt 15-40 Redline, VSOT, LC and FP. Love my Sprinter.
I was ready to order a new 04 E-350 with a 6.0 diesel when a friend told me to look at the Dodge Sprinters. One test drive was all it took. I now run 9 qts T&SUV, 1 qt 15-40 Redline, VSOT, LC and FP. Love my Sprinter.
1968 Nova, 250 six cylinder, 3 on the tree, 2.73 axil ratio, 155HP, max torque@1600 RPM, bought new from Joe Moss in Albemarle, NC. Joe was 60 and lived with his mother. He said to run the factory oil for 5000 miles then use straight 20 weight oil. Ran 20W Kendell for first 150,000 miles. Used a quart every 1,200 miles. Put in a Frantz oil filter at 110,000 in 1972. By 150,000 miles, 20W was harder to get, and the store did not have 10W-30, so wound up with 10W-40. When the engine was hot, it ran like it was full of glue. Hummm... Lower fuel mileage, too. I went to an oil supplier and secured some straight 10W. Ran that to 250K miles and about 25 year old car at that point. The straight 10W oil increased my 10,000 mile average MPG by 1.9 MPG to 25.9 MPG. Blow-by and oil consumption started up. Got careless about oil changes. At 325,000 and 30 years, rebuilt the engine myself. About half the compression rings were stuck. All the oil control rings were caked in carbon. The oil control ring drain holes in the pistons were packed with carbon and could not be pushed out by hand and not that easy to drill out. Took 0.040" to clean up the cylinders. Crank miked new. Rod and main bearings had more corrosion damage than wear. She has 361,000 on the clock, now, but the new cam has a 2400 RPM peak torque and is harder to get a load rolling than the old cam. I get whatever 5W-20, yes 20, name brand oil is on sale and PureONE filters. The Frantz by-pass filter gets whatever 2-ply tissue we are running in the john. And, two ply makes a difference!
Note to self: If a car is in regular use, change the oil and filters (I have 2, remember) every 3 months and pretty much ignore the miles up to 6000 miles. The 3 months is especially important if there are a lot of short trips. If you live long enough, you will wear out the engine. Hopefully, you will be throwing away some good oil, but not throwing away a bad engine. Don't buy into extended oil changes because of a bypass oil filter. If you do, your crank bearings will hold ok, but your oil chemistry will not keep the piston rings from sticking. When blow-by develops, oil is blown off the cylinder walls and cylinder wear increases. The blow-by will also dirty the oil quickly. Rebuild the engine at that point or drive it into the ground. Plain steel piston rings wear the cylinders much more quickly than chrom-moly.
I tried 12 month drain intervals with M1 and was very disappointed when all the rod bearings and the crank failed after 18 months. Did not like the tough, gummy varnish in the engine, either. Also lost rear wheel bearings on two rear wheel drive cars running M1 gear lube. I think M1 was having troubles then that they don't have now.
Driving a car 300,000 miles in 10 years is a lot easier to do than driving a car 300,000 miles in 30 years. Want to do major damage to your engine? Just go out and cold start it. I have read that when the engine is cold, half the wear of a 500 mile trip occurs in the first 10 seconds after and engine is started.
Tale: Widow calls my buddy's garage and says her car won't start. They tow it in and find the 350 GM engine stuck. They opened it up and noted an oil failure. They called the widow and ask about oil changes. Her husband bought the car new and died. She had never checked or added oil. Car ran 85K miles on the factory fill.
So, boys, somewhere between what I do and what the widow did is what you should do.
You don't really want to know about my 17 years with Olds diesels, do you, ...and why 2-ply tissues make a difference? Wore out an engine hoist...
Note to self: If a car is in regular use, change the oil and filters (I have 2, remember) every 3 months and pretty much ignore the miles up to 6000 miles. The 3 months is especially important if there are a lot of short trips. If you live long enough, you will wear out the engine. Hopefully, you will be throwing away some good oil, but not throwing away a bad engine. Don't buy into extended oil changes because of a bypass oil filter. If you do, your crank bearings will hold ok, but your oil chemistry will not keep the piston rings from sticking. When blow-by develops, oil is blown off the cylinder walls and cylinder wear increases. The blow-by will also dirty the oil quickly. Rebuild the engine at that point or drive it into the ground. Plain steel piston rings wear the cylinders much more quickly than chrom-moly.
I tried 12 month drain intervals with M1 and was very disappointed when all the rod bearings and the crank failed after 18 months. Did not like the tough, gummy varnish in the engine, either. Also lost rear wheel bearings on two rear wheel drive cars running M1 gear lube. I think M1 was having troubles then that they don't have now.
Driving a car 300,000 miles in 10 years is a lot easier to do than driving a car 300,000 miles in 30 years. Want to do major damage to your engine? Just go out and cold start it. I have read that when the engine is cold, half the wear of a 500 mile trip occurs in the first 10 seconds after and engine is started.
Tale: Widow calls my buddy's garage and says her car won't start. They tow it in and find the 350 GM engine stuck. They opened it up and noted an oil failure. They called the widow and ask about oil changes. Her husband bought the car new and died. She had never checked or added oil. Car ran 85K miles on the factory fill.
So, boys, somewhere between what I do and what the widow did is what you should do.
You don't really want to know about my 17 years with Olds diesels, do you, ...and why 2-ply tissues make a difference? Wore out an engine hoist...
Just turned 150K, owned it since 81K. 96 Saturn, can't believe it still runs as good as it does! Looks like heck, though!
Doesn't burn any oil, regulary achieves 36-39MPG on every tankful (w/o A/C).
Doesn't burn any oil, regulary achieves 36-39MPG on every tankful (w/o A/C).
1993 Ford Explorer 4.0L, 210K miles.
Has run on synthetic oil since day one off the dealer lot. Started with Mobil 1, briefly switched to Havoline Synthetic for a few years, then back to Mobil 1. Usually used Texaco oil filters from quick lube shop. OCI was 6000 to 7500 miles. When Mobil 1 stopped making 100% synthetic oil for several years, I made the switch to Amsoil Series 2000 0W30 in 2001. Installed dual by-pass filter in 2002. Since converting to Amsoil, I have started extended OCI's. I change the oil once per year, averaging 12,500 miles per year. I also started annual oil analysis at the same time. The vehicle is used by my wife as a daily driver to work, which is now only 2.5 miles from home. Short trip driving has been hard on the oil, so I continue the annual change interval.
Absolutely no mechanical problems with the engine during its entire lifetime. No oil consumption. Have a minor oil pan gasket leak right now. Ruptured fuel regulator hydrolocked the engine at 175K, no observable problems from that event.
As you can tell, we tend to keep our vehicles for a very long time. I like the extra protection that synthetics offer. I also like extended OCI's, but I would not do it without oil analysis. I keep our vehicles well maintained, and it has always paid off in the long run.
Has run on synthetic oil since day one off the dealer lot. Started with Mobil 1, briefly switched to Havoline Synthetic for a few years, then back to Mobil 1. Usually used Texaco oil filters from quick lube shop. OCI was 6000 to 7500 miles. When Mobil 1 stopped making 100% synthetic oil for several years, I made the switch to Amsoil Series 2000 0W30 in 2001. Installed dual by-pass filter in 2002. Since converting to Amsoil, I have started extended OCI's. I change the oil once per year, averaging 12,500 miles per year. I also started annual oil analysis at the same time. The vehicle is used by my wife as a daily driver to work, which is now only 2.5 miles from home. Short trip driving has been hard on the oil, so I continue the annual change interval.
Absolutely no mechanical problems with the engine during its entire lifetime. No oil consumption. Have a minor oil pan gasket leak right now. Ruptured fuel regulator hydrolocked the engine at 175K, no observable problems from that event.
As you can tell, we tend to keep our vehicles for a very long time. I like the extra protection that synthetics offer. I also like extended OCI's, but I would not do it without oil analysis. I keep our vehicles well maintained, and it has always paid off in the long run.
1998 f-150. 5.4 liter engine. 153,000 miles Mostly Mobil 1 5 and 10W30 and MC filters @ about 5000 mile intervals. Uses about 1/2 quart in 5000 miles but most of that leaks out of the rear main seal. The last oil analysis done last fall showed normal wear. Also tried Delvac 1 and M1 TSUV 5W40 for a few intervals around 120,000.
Has pretty much been a garage queen for the past year. Getting 6 mo oil changes regardless of miles. Switched to Mobil 1 0W40. Annual miles reduced from about 19,000/year to 6,000/year.
Has pretty much been a garage queen for the past year. Getting 6 mo oil changes regardless of miles. Switched to Mobil 1 0W40. Annual miles reduced from about 19,000/year to 6,000/year.
1998 Cavalier 2.4L DOHC, 155k miles. Castrol GTX and SuperTech, AC Delco, and one STP filter with 3000 - 3500 OCI. Runs like a top with >30 mpg average. Water pump and ignition coils have had to be replaced but otherwise very trouble free.
In my pre BITOG days, I had a 92 Chevy Cavalier that I bought new and just dogged out. I had Jiffy Lube do a few changes at first out of laziness, then I ran Castrol GTX up to about 9k on each change for awhile with Fram filters. It finished it's history with me by getting Supertech Synthetic from about 120k to 172k on 5k OCI's with Supertech filters, which is when I gave it to my brother. It still ran like a top when I gave it up, didn't use any oil, and still got 27MPG average at 172k, which was surprising for an early 90's GM with a 2.2l motor. He still has it today with 190k and still going strong.
1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l 159,000 and ditto on the 60 PSI at cruise. Has had a steady diet of Supertech Synthetic 10W30 or Supertech 10W30 High Mileage and Supertech filters since 119k. OCI of 3-5k each cycle. Unknown history before that. Still burns no oil, and no leaks (surprising for a Jeep). Running Havoline now for ARX, and still deciding what to do after the last rinse cycle.
"1992 Jeep Cherokee 4.0l 159,000 and ditto on the 60 PSI at cruise. Has had a steady diet of Supertech Synthetic 10W30 or Supertech 10W30 High Mileage and Supertech filters since 119k. OCI of 3-5k each cycle."
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I guess that says it all about PCMOs.
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I guess that says it all about PCMOs.
My son is now driving my old '92 Civic. 235,000. Mobil 1 only since 70,000 miles.
1996 Honda Accord 4 cyl with 155,500 miles has had oil changes at 4,000-5,000 mile intervals during its lifetime, using only 5w30 dino oil. Can't tell that it uses any oil between changes. The only significant repair the car has ever had (AC compressor) was non-oil related.
1997 Subaru Impreza, 2.2L EJ22 motor, manual trans. 153,000 miles. Until 80,000 it had 5,000 OCI w/ Mobil 1 5w-30, since then, it's had 6,000 OCI w/ whatever quality oil was on sale, and some Amsoil too. Last two OCI's were/are Valvoline Premium Blue Extreme 5w-40. After that, it's gonna be Amsoil ACD (switching everything motor-oil-lubricated to the ACD, riding mower, generator, my car, wifes car, snow blower) so I don't have 4 different oils laying around. NO major repairs on the Sube, even still has the original brake pads and shoes.....
Dave
Dave
In the last twenty years, I have driven at least 14 cars that my family has put at least 120,000 miles, each, on the ticker. (Some 180,000 miles) All have used the currently available M1 oil and many have had UOA regularly.
Mulitple (almost too many to remember) GMC Truck and Suburans with the 350 and 5.3 and 6.5 and 6.2 TD (Yes, I successfully ran it in diesel enagines when it was not approved for it)
Saturn
Lincoln Mark VIII
Dodge Quad Cab (Currently at 70,000)
Seven Hondas of various makes from Civics, Accords, and Preludes starting in 1986
We run it in current Audi, Honda, multiple GMC, Chevy SSR, Porsche, Dodge...
In all cases, we never lost an engine. Period. Nor on any of the UOA showed appreciable wear or engine problems attributed to the oil... None used more than what we thought was normal oil in between fills, usually one quart between fills.
Mulitple (almost too many to remember) GMC Truck and Suburans with the 350 and 5.3 and 6.5 and 6.2 TD (Yes, I successfully ran it in diesel enagines when it was not approved for it)
Saturn
Lincoln Mark VIII
Dodge Quad Cab (Currently at 70,000)
Seven Hondas of various makes from Civics, Accords, and Preludes starting in 1986
We run it in current Audi, Honda, multiple GMC, Chevy SSR, Porsche, Dodge...
In all cases, we never lost an engine. Period. Nor on any of the UOA showed appreciable wear or engine problems attributed to the oil... None used more than what we thought was normal oil in between fills, usually one quart between fills.
