Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

1985 Chevy S-10 Blazer 4x4. Sold 6 years ago with 235,000 miles on the original wimpy 2.8L engine. Saw it at the local Blockbusters a few months ago, still looks pretty good.

My dad had it for its first 130k, he changed it every 5k or so at the local Jiffy Lube. When I got it I changed it every 3k with Havoline or whatever I could find. This was many years before I found this site though.
 
What leaks are you referring to on your SE-R? I had a '91 for a while, and have had two G20s (same engine), the second of which is my wife's daily driver. That is a good motor. Fun car.

To add to the thread I have an '89 325i with 234k, currently undergoing Auto-RX treatment, my first experimentation with the stuff. Engine still smooth and strong on a variety of different oils. I'm currently using BMW 15W-40 dino, and considering trying out some of the diesel oils highly regarded on the site (Delo 15W-40, Rotella 5W-40), and/or Havoline and Chevron Supreme, for bang for the buck. Intend to begin using VSOT in small quantities when done with Auto-RX. I put the recommended dose of MMO in the fuel most fillups and think it is probably somewhat helpful to the top end. Never tried FP or LC but might, some day.

But does anybody think 150k is a lot of miles these days? I see 200k as a minimum for a modern engine to be able to easily attain w/out problems, and for all I know maybe I should be saying 300k! The only reason a lot of cars don't last that long, IMO, is they get traded down to ever-more-neglectful second, third, fourth owners, etc. They get run out of oil, overheated, timing belts break, and soon the car's not worth saving.

- Glenn
 
1993 Dodge Shadow ES
3.0l V6
248000 miles

I have used castrol syntec since first oil change. i have always used a Mobil1 or Pure1 oil filter.I changed the oil myself.
 
191,000 on my 97 saab 900 turbo. I never had a leak, never had any oil consuption, never ruined a turbo. I used Mobil 1 in usually 5 or 10W30. I used either Purolator Pure One or Fram filters.

Inside of the valve cover was spotless, as well.
 
I jinxed myself by replying to this!!! My truck now makes a horrible ticking/knocking noise and I am at the end of the rinse phase for Auto-rx. The good news is that my rocker arms looked really clean, and everything else under the valve cover.
 
1992 Dodge Dakota V6 405,100 miles. Bought the truck new. Ran Walmart 10-30wt oil the entire time. Changed oil about every 3-4k. All so I never added any oil additives. It was using about 1 1/2 quarts per 3k after about 300K. Ended up trading it for a 16ft double axle trailer. I still see it around town now and then.
 
1992 Plymouth Acclaim 3.0l v-6 3 speed auto, given away at 185000 ish

it was maintained at a dealer until 60000 when my dad bought it from my grandmother. since then it has had walmart 5w30 and the orange can that was changed every 3000 miles. ran great. it had maintenance that was strongly recommended by people that knew the 3.0l it was taken apart at 60000 and then at 130000 or so. the engine only used about a half a qt between oil changes.

(i know this is cheating but....)
1991 Dodge Ram D250 Cummins Turbo Diesel, auto, 2wd, sold at about 210,000

bought it with about 150000 miles on it. since then it had supertech 15w40 and the orange can. it never burned a drop of oil. so i am guessing it was taken care of. for some reason the water pump broke a couple of times. it was actually one of the bolts first which led to the pump breaking. it got very, very hot one time and just hot the other time. i was driving it both times, seems odd. but that was the only big problem, had a tps go bad when we got it but that was no big deal.


(these were my dads vehicles, i just know everything about them)
 
I may have answered here already but I'm not sure.
Couple years ago I had a 1991 Lincoln Continental (FWD) that my dad bought new, gave it to me with 99,000 on it. I sold it at 152k. Valvoline All-Climate and Motorcraft filters every 3k the whole time. It blew a head gasket at around 120k, which the Ford 3.8 is known to do, but otherwise no problems. When the dealer changed the head gasket they said it still looked real good inside.
 
1997 Ford F-150. Currently have 191,000 miles. Purchased at 93,000 miles. P.O. used 10w40 castrol with Motorcraft fl820s filters at 3,000 mile ocis till I bought it. I than used castrol 5w30 and motorcraft filter at 3,000 mile intervals till approx. 140,000 miles where I switched to motorcraft 5w30 the filter is a constant. I used tropartic for a couple ocis but for the most part since I purchased the truck it was motorcraft and castrol. Fixing to change over to 5,000 mile intervals.
 
'97 Isuzu Rodeo has recently crossed over 150k.

Purchased new/slightly used with 11k miles in March '98 in Vegas, NV.

Truck gets used as a DD, camping, sight-seeing, all around touring, and boat-hauling vehicle, been up and down the Continental Divide more times then can remember.

Gets regular maintenance, and OCI's every 3-4k, Havoline dino 10w-30, OEM filters for 90% of it's life. Only uses 1/4 qt every 3k miles.

2 batteries, 2 alternators, 3 sets of tires, 1 powersteering pump, 1 set of valve cover gaskets, 2 sets of shocks, just about covers everything that's had to be replaced. Oh and 1 driveshaft carrier bearing, a defect covered under warranty.

That's all she's had, with the exception of regular maintenance, i.e. belts, hoses, etc.
 
1983 toyota truck. 22r engine. 240k miles on it when the frame rusted and it got all swaybacked (tear)
it was an ex omaha airport utility truck and apparently it sat at idle and ran constantly. it had at one time an aux fuel tank in the bed. it had a hookup for a hour gauge(!) in it when i got it for 300 bucks. i drove the next 4 years delivering stuff around omaha in it. changed the oil about every 5k. used the valvoline oil change place near my house. i miss that old truck.
 
My 1992 Nissan Sentra Classic now sits at 244600 km (152019.9 miles).

-Serviced with dealer dino until about 50-75,000 km.

-75,000-100,000 km serviced at quick lube places and corner mechanics.

-100,000-150,000 km serviced in the driveway.

-150,000-200,00 km serviced at quick lube places and corner mechanics.

-200,000-244600 km serviced in the driveway with 3 Auto-Rx treatments, dino and intermittent use of Lube Control.

Runs very well. Averages over an entire year about 26 miles per U.S. gallon in the city and 32 miles per gallon on the highway. Burns about 1L/3000 km, but because of various leaks I have to top up at the rate of 1L/1000 km.
 
1989 Dodge Caravan 2.5L turbo. Second owner, purchased 1n 1998 at 142K, now has 198K, currently running Rotella T syn 5W-40 after ARX.

1994 Plymouth Acclaim 2.5L. 2nd. owner, purchased in 1997 at 63K, now has ~180K. Currently in ARX rinse with GTX Techion, 15W-40. (daily driver)

1991 Dodge Spirit 2.5L. 3rd. owner. Purchased in 1998 at 83K, now has ~188K. In Arx rinse with ST 15W-40.

1994 Dodge GC 3.3L. Purchased in 2003 at 182K, now has 200+K. Post ARX rinse, now running ST 10W-40 with 6 oz LC20. (daily driver)
 
1987 VW Golf

First 86,000...Pennzoil 5W-30 (My father, the original owner, didn't follow VW recommendations.)

Since....Pennzoil Heavy Duty 15W-40

Currently has over 215,000 miles. Runs great!
 
1994 Ranger with 2.3L 4 banger. 175k miles, always use cheapest API certified oil I can find (usually SuperTech). Use 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer. Never flushed the engine. No startup noises, doesn't use any oil in the 3k miles OCI. I always use Motorcraft FL1A filter.
 
1993 Toyota Corolla 1.6L 3speed. 200k use whatever 10W-30 API/Energy Conserve oil on sale. In winter, use MobileOne 10W-30. Now using Valvoline MaxLife HM 10W-30.
 
87 Olds Cutlass Supreme with factory 5.0L 305ci Chevy (Canadian spec), bought 4 years ago with 114k off previous owner (since car was 3 years old) changed oil every 3k with dyno (i think). Occasionally pulled 3500 pound boat.

I used dyno 10w30 Valvoline (since people made me think it would leak if synthetic was used at that age) every 2-3k because I frequently did burnouts and redlined the car every day (I was 17). Noticed soon after I bought it the valve seals were bad and car would smoke for 2 seconds when started in the morning, but still did not use oil between changes. Eventually switched to synthetic, used 5w30, 10w30, 15w50, everything. Still changed at least every 3k. Raced at at the local 1/4 mile track the past 2 summers, changed rear axle gears for better acceleration and other cheap mods. Eventually changed the valve seals with my friend at work who couldn't believe how clean the engine was inside. I finally retired the car the end of this summer with 200k due to serious underbody rust. The engine still runs like a brand new one and I'm pulling it out to swap into my winter car eventually. I've done burnouts at 5500+rpm for 20-30 seconds at a time and occasionally floated the valves when i let the rpm's get too high but this engine remains tight.

Other car is a 1986 Caprice which was rarely driven up until about 7 years ago when my best friend bought it off his aunt with 70k on it. The first while he had it, it was drove hard and got oil changes I beleve between 7-10k miles with dyno oil. After one oil change, he had a stalling problem and was driving it around for half a day, revving it to keep it going and finally someone checked the oil for him and found it to be off the stick! Filled it up with 4-5qt's and wow it didn't stall anymore! After he met me I taught him a bit and he started to worry that the car was going to blow up and he started changing oil every 2-3k (still dyno). Then finally 3 years ago he sold it to me for $200 Cnd. thinking it would fail the clean air test. I put a new exhaust on for the safety and it passed the clean air. Engine also has needed a new rad for several years now - runs at 230+ on the highway, and has been overheated 260+ a couple times as well. Engine now has almost 150k and uses a qt every 500 miles or so :-(, has visible blue smoke only under hard acceleration. Other than that, engine runs like brand new and still has decent power.
 
My old 1995 Ford Contour LX V6 5speed has 150K miles on it now.

I bought it used as a lease return with 21K on it. I then got the oil changed every 3-4K with whatever oil where I took it was using (but I always gave them a Motorcraft FL-820S to use) until 90K when I started using Mobil 1 it. I then sold it to my brother at 125K and he's had it since then. I think he might've used Mobil 1 for a couple of oil changes but since then has used regular oil, including Advance Auto's house brand.

The parts that have been replaced on that car have been the struts, the oxygen sensors, the water pump, the front control arms (bushings not replaceable separately), the engine mounts, the front swaybar end links, and I believe that's it. The radiator, fuel pump, alternator, starter, A/C compressor, P/S pump, are all original.

My 1988 Ford Mustang GT has 168K on it now. I've used nothing but regular oil in it changed about every 4K since I got it at 116K. It uses about 1 quart in 1800 miles and that has remained constant since I got it. Since I got it I've replaced the alternator, the oil pump, the fuel pump, the radiator (which actually rusted from the outside in!), the shocks/struts, the harmonic balancer, the oxygen sensors, the TFI-IV ignition module, some of the bushings, the motor mounts, and added subframe connectors. Oh, I also replaced the headlights because they had condensation in them. And I did the mass-air upgrade/conversion and replaced the exhaust which had rusted out.

Oh, the 5-speed transmission was replaced too because it was grinding going into 2nd. I still have the old one; maybe someday I'll try replacing the bad 2nd gear synchro.
 
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