Those with 150,000 miles or more, check in

I have a 1993 Ford F-150 extended cab, 302 V8, automatic. Had it since new and has 409,165 miles on the original engine. Only thing replaced is A/C, Starter and Alternator(just replaced them last year with about 395,000 miles). Transmission rebuilt three times. We used regular Havoline 10W-40 with MotorCraft FL-1A filters for the first 150,00 to 200,000 miles then swithched to regular Castrol 10W-40 with FL-1A. There also has been several(10-20)times that there was different oil and filters used because being out of town and definately needed an oil change. We tried to change every 3,000 but not every time. The trucks odometer goes to 399,999 and then flips right back to 300,000. I had my camera ready for the 400,000 and was dissapointed when it said 300,000. The last 15,000 miles we have a bad oil pan leak and we have not fixed and won't. just saving money to replace the motor. It is a work truck and has been very very good to us. No additives for anything just regular maintenance on the entire engine. Or it is just because it is A FORD!!!!!!!


(Three transmission rebuilds in 400,000 miles dosen't sound good at all, most properly maintained transmissons can last 200,000 miles before a rebuild.) However, Ford trucks seem to be better built than Ford cars and 400,000+ miles on the original engine without a rebuild is very good. I've had my fill of domestic cars, trucks on the other hand are another story.
 
Wow
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409K is awesome. I think that 10W40 is an overlooked grade of oil for trucks. I agree with you that Ford (and Chevrolet) build some very good trucks, but their cars were behind the Japanese in the 90s. I hope you get another 400K out of the truck.
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The first trans rebuild was around 100,000. The second rebuild was around 250,000 and the last one was around 390,000. The motor is going to be replaced this year sometime, we are anxious to tear it down and look at any sludge build up and the wear it has on the engine.
 
I have ignored this post because all my vehicles are well under 150,000 miles, but my last truck had 175,000 when I sold it. It is an '84 F150 300 cid inline six. This truck saw mostly commuting on freeways and 3000 mile oil and filter changes. It likely had dino for most of its life (I just don't remember the brand), then later may have been getting Durablend. I would run 5w30 in winter and 10w30 in summer and always, without fail, included a quart of Rislone in every oil change. Sold it in '99 and the buyer now has 210,000 miles and it still runs great, plenty of power, smooth, etc. But then the 300 is a tough engine to start with. Anyway, FWIW it at least seems to show that Rislone, if it does not do any good, at least does not do significant harm.

BTW, the original rear end is going strong without ever a fluid change.

The original clutch hydraulics are going strong with never even a fluid replacement.

The original 4 speed OD manual tranny is still running strong with only one fluid change around 100,000 miles to 10w40 motor oil.

Most major repair ever was the clutch (is on third one).
 
96 Toyota Avalon with 175,250 miles as of yesterday. Wife drove it to school(teacher) for 7 years. That was less than 2 miles each way. Other than that we drove to church, less than 1 mile and vacations, sometimes 500 miles/day. Most miles were interstate 150 miles each way to visit grandchildren. Used Castrol(not sure which one) 5W-30 and Toyota filters until recently. Started using Pennzoil 5W-30 and whatever I picked up at WM. No major repairs except replacing the timing belt on schedule. That qualifies as major to me because of the cost. This car has never had the brakes serviced. Every time I had them checked, was told they were OK.
 
1996 3.8L Camaro
143,xxx miles (I know, not 150k but CLOSE!)
Owned since 60,000 miles.

First 30,000 miles or so (pre-BITOG)
Chevron Supreme/Pennzoil/Mobil 1 on 3k OCIs.

Since then,
Mobil 1/GC on 5-7k OCIs
 
1998 Chev k1500 - 5.7L Vortech
170k Miles

120k miles in the first 24 months (Salesman's truck). Bought from my wife's company at 120k miles. She worked in accounts payable and paid his invoices for oil changes, which occurred EVERY 2 TO 3 WEEKS at 3k miles. Quiky lube 5w30 oil and filters.

Truck runs really well, but has developed a bit of a ticking sound at cold start-up....I think this is due to its first OCI with M1 5w30 some other people on this board with the same engine are noticing this as well. Will switch to GC or some other heavy xw30 or xw40 for 6k mile OCI's to try to correct this condition.

At the end of its first 6k mile OCI with M1, it still has not used a drop of oil, and it has never had any leaks.

It still runs really well and makes a ton of power. Enough to spin heavy 285/75r16 (33") BFG All terrains.

Fuel economy is 20 highway at best..more like 18.

I've had a ton of repairs, with many parts failing reapeated times.

I love everything about this truck when it's running, and if I could get toyota to build and back up this truck, I'd buy another one.

Next time it's a japanese product for me.
 
1994 ford ranger 2wd stx supercab, about 202,000 miles. bought new in june 94 (to replace an 85 isuzu p'up diesel with 166k at the time, my brother-in-law is still driving that around). oci 5k miles with various 5w30 religously through summer of 2003. the first oc was castrol syntec (which i understand was pao based at the time), then i used castrol, pennz, valv, whatever was cheaper at the time, and frams (ugggggghhhhhhh) until i found the minimopar study around 2000. motorcraft filters since. the last two years/changes (15k) have been m1 with a 12 month change interval. i just changed to german castrol 0w30 (gold) about two weeks ago, and hope to keep that in for the next year. my 16 year old will be driving it so it should only get about 6 - 8k miles over the next year.
 
My sister's 94 camry just hit 150k.Oil changed every 3to4k using 10w30 dino only.Just starting using high milage oil.

Tansmission fluid has never been changed.2 late now i say as the dirt is the only thing holding it together.Antifreeze was never changed either until the rad. blew last year.
 
1987 Mazda B2000, 151,000+ miles runs about the same as when I got it years ago, has a carb and everything on it is pretty much original and it gets around 25 MPG in mixed driving. I see lots of these older Mazda's running around with many more miles than mine. 2.0 was a good engine.
 
I just turned 150k on an '86 Caddy v8. Peripherals have all been replaced once, one trans rebuild, and the valve covers never pulled. This is a daily driver by an athlete - 3yrs. in HS and four in college(abused if not just neglected). Now a 30 mile daily commute to work. I use 10w30 Pennz with 3k OCI. I'm looking to keep this in the family for another five to ten years and reach 250k.
BTW - I did an AutoRx @ 135k and it really helped. Now I use Lube control every k and a recent UOA showed normal wear.
 
My 1995 Ford Aerostar with the 3.0 V6 just turned 170k. I have always done the 3k changes with 10w-30 valvoline and the occasional Napa oil that is made by valvoline. I bought it with 10k on it in early 1996.

Had to have the rear end rebuilt early on since it was really noisy, and had to have the axle shafts replaced last year since the seals were leaking oil on the rear brakes. Other than that, it's been a very good vehicle and uses no oil.

In fact, my kids don't even let me talk about getting rid of this van since they're all attached to it! I figure we'll keep it as our 3rd vehicle until it dies or rusts out!
 
I have an 82 Granada with at least 250,000 miles on it ( the odometer turned twice then broke at 33,452 about two years ago). Hwy/cty mix, no big cross country treks except from Jersey to NC. It's had probably EVERY dino brand and weight in it at one time or another, but the only thing it doesn't burn is Supertech 20w50. No engine problem whatsoever except the occasional puff of smoke out the exhaust. Had a 180,000 mile 87 Sentra that threw a rod finally, that was using 10w40 Valvoline, mostly city driving. The rod threw right after I switched to Max Life and Fram -coincidence? And a '95 Olds cutlass 3.1 SW (former Taxi cab) with almost 400K- Castrol GTX 5w30 first 100k, GTX 20w50 after. No engine trouble. Keep in mind all of these vehicles recieved regular 3,500 oil changes. As for filters, Fram TG on the sentra, Motorcraft on the Granada, and Purolator on the Olds.
 
1989 Dodge dakota 385,000 + on Valvoline and Castrol mostly with 5,000 mile intervals, needed a lot of work on everything but the engine so it was scapped. Engine still ran strong. The Trans was gone along with a whole lot of little things that cost more than its worth to keep running.

1997 Pontiac Bonneville 175,00 + with same oils and intervals.

1999 dodge ram 1500 118,000 treated the same as above.
 
My understanding is that the auto companies design for 90% survivability @ 150K miles. So 150K is not a big deal anymore.
Friend's '91 v6 Dakota in calif was 227K last year when I was out to visit him. Puts in what ever 10w-30 he finds on sale. Many 4.0 Jeeps go 200K plus.
 
My 1988 F-150 with 302 just rolled over to 450,000 miles on original engine. Like hofiveo, I've had to replace the peripherals like A/C, starter, alternator, etc, but the engine has never even had the valve covers removed. Fortunately, only had to rebuild the tranny once in that time, but it won't be much longer before I have to do it again.
 
Here are some of the stats that I worked out using this thread:


Buick 12 4.0 4.0 4.0
Olds 9 3.0 3.0 6.9
Pontiac 14 4.6 4.6 11.6
Chevrolet 43 14.2 14.2 25.7
Cadillac 2 .7 .7 26.4
Ford 33 10.9 10.9 37.3
Mercury 4 1.3 1.3 38.6
Lincoln 2 .7 .7 39.3
Honda/Acura 33 10.9 10.9 50.2
Toyota/Lexus 40 13.2 13.2 63.4
Nissan/Infinity 10 3.3 3.3 66.7
Dodge/Plymouth 18 5.9 5.9 72.6
Jeep 5 1.7 1.7 74.3
Other 39 12.9 12.9 87.1
Mercedes 11 3.6 3.6 90.8
Volvo 14 4.6 4.6 95.4
VW 11 3.6 3.6 99.0
BMW 3 1.0 1.0 100.0
Total 303 100.0 100.0
 
one 1980 caprice classic, 267 v8, over one million, knew the man good, got it cheap, he always used superflo 10w-30 and stp oil treatment, afterwards i used napa oil ( valvoline) and a gold filter. and its still ticking on the original engine. doesn't smoke hardly, can't even tell. doesn't even use much or if any.
 
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