Possibly considering running a 0w30 in my Accord. But I would want it to be the thinnest 30 weight I could get. Would this hurt the i-vtec system or hurt anything else? Being the fact that its thicker? or would it be better just to keep running a 5w20? Need this car for another 6 years, at least, and 70,000 more miles. Wanting it to run like new as long as possible and want the best protection and lowest wear. It specs 5w20.
Thin 30 weight oils?
- Thread starter gregk24
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Isn't that car spec'd for 5w20? If so, just keep using that. I see no reason to run a 0w30/5w30. What makes you think you need something thicker?
Nothing bad will come of it, but why sap power and gas mileage for no reason?
Nothing bad will come of it, but why sap power and gas mileage for no reason?
Pennzoil Ultra has a cSt of 9.9 @ 100C. Minmium for a 30 wt is a 9.3 cSt. It should only hurt your gas mileage.
I wouldn't worry about trying to get the thinnest 30 weight in there, I'd keep doing exactly what you're doing. Pennzoil Ultra is an excellent oil and I doubt any other oil would gain significant engine life. With regular oil changes, I wouldn't have any worries of hitting 200k + on that motor.
Originally Posted By: dparm
Isn't that car spec'd for 5w20? If so, just keep using that. I see no reason to run a 0w30/5w30. What makes you think you need something thicker?
Nothing bad will come of it, but why sap power and gas mileage for no reason?
Maybe just to quiet it down some, it has piston slap in the morning so I thought maybe a thicker oil might help, also I so multiple starts in a day so the 30w might cling better to the sides providing better protection on every start. Plus I hear a lot here on BITOG that 5w20 is only for CAFE and that the 5w20 will wear your engine out quicker than a 5w30. I just want OPTIMUM protection thats all I am looking for, whether it be a 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, or 5w30. VERY short trips, 7+ starts per day, Florida weather. 113,000 miles.
Isn't that car spec'd for 5w20? If so, just keep using that. I see no reason to run a 0w30/5w30. What makes you think you need something thicker?
Nothing bad will come of it, but why sap power and gas mileage for no reason?
Maybe just to quiet it down some, it has piston slap in the morning so I thought maybe a thicker oil might help, also I so multiple starts in a day so the 30w might cling better to the sides providing better protection on every start. Plus I hear a lot here on BITOG that 5w20 is only for CAFE and that the 5w20 will wear your engine out quicker than a 5w30. I just want OPTIMUM protection thats all I am looking for, whether it be a 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, or 5w30. VERY short trips, 7+ starts per day, Florida weather. 113,000 miles.
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Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Pennzoil Ultra has a cSt of 9.9 @ 100C. Minmium for a 30 wt is a 9.3 cSt. It should only hurt your gas mileage.
Yes, I like the fact that Ultra is more robust. But I only have enough for two more oil changes, thats it, I cant get it anywhere so I will probably try QSUD, but its thinner.
Pennzoil Ultra has a cSt of 9.9 @ 100C. Minmium for a 30 wt is a 9.3 cSt. It should only hurt your gas mileage.
Yes, I like the fact that Ultra is more robust. But I only have enough for two more oil changes, thats it, I cant get it anywhere so I will probably try QSUD, but its thinner.
guys on here say havoline 5W30 is very thin, almost like a 20 wt. Id give it a shot, cant hurt nothing. Only place Ive seen it is AAP, at least the synthetic Havoline.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Pennzoil Ultra has a cSt of 9.9 @ 100C. Minmium for a 30 wt is a 9.3 cSt. It should only hurt your gas mileage.
Yes, I like the fact that Ultra is more robust. But I only have enough for two more oil changes, thats it, I cant get it anywhere so I will probably try QSUD, but its thinner.
I was referring to PU 5w30 with its 9.9 cSt
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Pennzoil Ultra has a cSt of 9.9 @ 100C. Minmium for a 30 wt is a 9.3 cSt. It should only hurt your gas mileage.
Yes, I like the fact that Ultra is more robust. But I only have enough for two more oil changes, thats it, I cant get it anywhere so I will probably try QSUD, but its thinner.
I was referring to PU 5w30 with its 9.9 cSt
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Pennzoil Ultra has a cSt of 9.9 @ 100C. Minmium for a 30 wt is a 9.3 cSt. It should only hurt your gas mileage.
Yes, I like the fact that Ultra is more robust. But I only have enough for two more oil changes, thats it, I cant get it anywhere so I will probably try QSUD, but its thinner.
I was referring to PU 5w30 with its 9.9 cSt
I see, but I checked out the specs sheet for ultra and its a bit thicker than PP and QSUD. in the 5w20 flavor anyway.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Pennzoil Ultra has a cSt of 9.9 @ 100C. Minmium for a 30 wt is a 9.3 cSt. It should only hurt your gas mileage.
Yes, I like the fact that Ultra is more robust. But I only have enough for two more oil changes, thats it, I cant get it anywhere so I will probably try QSUD, but its thinner.
I was referring to PU 5w30 with its 9.9 cSt
I see, but I checked out the specs sheet for ultra and its a bit thicker than PP and QSUD. in the 5w20 flavor anyway.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Possibly considering running a 0w30 in my Accord. But I would want it to be the thinnest 30 weight I could get. Would this hurt the i-vtec system or hurt anything else? Being the fact that its thicker? or would it be better just to keep running a 5w20? Need this car for another 6 years, at least, and 70,000 more miles. Wanting it to run like new as long as possible and want the best protection and lowest wear. It specs 5w20.
Different engine in my civic...2.0 4cyl but I'll share my many experiments with you. For everyday driving German Castrol 0-30 was too thick with long warm-up times and mpg penalty. Other 30 weights including TropArtic, Mobil 1, Valvoline syn, Valvoline Maxlife Nextgen, 10w30 Pennzoil Ultra, and even straight SAE 30 Pennzoil all worked fine with TropArtic and both Pennzoil's making the engine the quietest.
So besides the thick German Castrol and probably most High Mileage 30 weights you probably won't notice a difference in performance or mpg.
However as far as the vtec goes...Castrol High Mileage 5w20 TWICE set off a CEL concerning the vtec system. Yes, is was 5w20, not 5w30. The first time I replaced a $100 part; the second time I just changed the oil. both CELs came on after almost exactly 400 miles w/Castrol HM in the engine. Sounds unbelievable, I know. I searched all over and even started a thread here to see if anyone else experienced CELs with Castrol HM and no information came up.
Possibly considering running a 0w30 in my Accord. But I would want it to be the thinnest 30 weight I could get. Would this hurt the i-vtec system or hurt anything else? Being the fact that its thicker? or would it be better just to keep running a 5w20? Need this car for another 6 years, at least, and 70,000 more miles. Wanting it to run like new as long as possible and want the best protection and lowest wear. It specs 5w20.
Different engine in my civic...2.0 4cyl but I'll share my many experiments with you. For everyday driving German Castrol 0-30 was too thick with long warm-up times and mpg penalty. Other 30 weights including TropArtic, Mobil 1, Valvoline syn, Valvoline Maxlife Nextgen, 10w30 Pennzoil Ultra, and even straight SAE 30 Pennzoil all worked fine with TropArtic and both Pennzoil's making the engine the quietest.
So besides the thick German Castrol and probably most High Mileage 30 weights you probably won't notice a difference in performance or mpg.
However as far as the vtec goes...Castrol High Mileage 5w20 TWICE set off a CEL concerning the vtec system. Yes, is was 5w20, not 5w30. The first time I replaced a $100 part; the second time I just changed the oil. both CELs came on after almost exactly 400 miles w/Castrol HM in the engine. Sounds unbelievable, I know. I searched all over and even started a thread here to see if anyone else experienced CELs with Castrol HM and no information came up.
A spec sheet number might not be the number your engine sees after a few miles. Last year an oil with a cSt spec of 9.3@100C had a tested 9.6@100C after 100 miles and 9.9@100C after 1,000 miles. I just wonder if that amount of creep makes any difference inside the engine.
If you wish to customize a viscosity, it sounds like you're becoming a blender.
I began searching the VOA for the oils I was interested in and recorded each cSt @ 100 C. For multiple VOA for the same oil, such as Rotella T6, I recorded all and averaged them. Then the viscosity calculator became my friend. It took my oil addiction to a new level. My current fill is (3) quarts of Mobil Clean 5000, 5W20, SM that I summize to be at about 7.94 cSt @ 100 C with (1.5) quarts of Rotella T6, 5W40, SM with an average 13.77 cSt @ 100 C for a blended mixture of 9.48 cSt @ 100 C. This is a 66.6% MC5K and 33.3% T6 blend. So I'm flirting with a thin SAE 30 if we consider a SAE 30 beginning at 9.3 cSt @ 100 C.
As you can imagine, I have MC5K in quart bottles from the O'Reilly $4.99/5qt sale a couple years ago and Rotella by the gallon from a AAP coupon code mishap, stacked with MIR to get (2) gallons of T6 and a Purolator P1 14610 for ~$11.50. The T6 has a broken label, but I make sure to tighten securely and we utilize it in the small engines around the garage, so it doesn't sit long.
My experience with this blend is less piston slap as you describe with a SAE 20 in your Accord. It cranks with no additional effort and I comprehend a smoother idle. However, I am on the fence about my MPG. About the time I placed this blend in the sump, was the time my commute changed. I now have 75 MPH for about 20-25 minutes per day and perhaps 20 minutes of city driving. I've experienced about a 3-4 MPG decrease which amounts to about 11% (4 MPG/35MPG (Lifetime MPG)).
I began searching the VOA for the oils I was interested in and recorded each cSt @ 100 C. For multiple VOA for the same oil, such as Rotella T6, I recorded all and averaged them. Then the viscosity calculator became my friend. It took my oil addiction to a new level. My current fill is (3) quarts of Mobil Clean 5000, 5W20, SM that I summize to be at about 7.94 cSt @ 100 C with (1.5) quarts of Rotella T6, 5W40, SM with an average 13.77 cSt @ 100 C for a blended mixture of 9.48 cSt @ 100 C. This is a 66.6% MC5K and 33.3% T6 blend. So I'm flirting with a thin SAE 30 if we consider a SAE 30 beginning at 9.3 cSt @ 100 C.
As you can imagine, I have MC5K in quart bottles from the O'Reilly $4.99/5qt sale a couple years ago and Rotella by the gallon from a AAP coupon code mishap, stacked with MIR to get (2) gallons of T6 and a Purolator P1 14610 for ~$11.50. The T6 has a broken label, but I make sure to tighten securely and we utilize it in the small engines around the garage, so it doesn't sit long.
My experience with this blend is less piston slap as you describe with a SAE 20 in your Accord. It cranks with no additional effort and I comprehend a smoother idle. However, I am on the fence about my MPG. About the time I placed this blend in the sump, was the time my commute changed. I now have 75 MPH for about 20-25 minutes per day and perhaps 20 minutes of city driving. I've experienced about a 3-4 MPG decrease which amounts to about 11% (4 MPG/35MPG (Lifetime MPG)).
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: dparm
Isn't that car spec'd for 5w20? If so, just keep using that. I see no reason to run a 0w30/5w30. What makes you think you need something thicker?
Nothing bad will come of it, but why sap power and gas mileage for no reason?
Maybe just to quiet it down some, it has piston slap in the morning so I thought maybe a thicker oil might help, also I so multiple starts in a day so the 30w might cling better to the sides providing better protection on every start. Plus I hear a lot here on BITOG that 5w20 is only for CAFE and that the 5w20 will wear your engine out quicker than a 5w30. I just want OPTIMUM protection thats all I am looking for, whether it be a 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, or 5w30. VERY short trips, 7+ starts per day, Florida weather. 113,000 miles.
You know that if surface finish quality is improved, the film thickness in a bearing can go down, even with the same clearances?
Is it to get better MPGs?. Sure. That doesn't mean anything is compromised. Plenty of results of high mileage vehicles on 20wt to prove that. There is a lot more to tribology and lube design/specification than some conspiracy concept.
You went >100k on 20wt so far, why didnt your engine grenade already?
Lots of start stop and short trips means the oil will be heavier anyway, as it hasn't had the chance to thermally adapt and drop viscosity, so much of what you're asking is highly irrelevant anyway.
Originally Posted By: dparm
Isn't that car spec'd for 5w20? If so, just keep using that. I see no reason to run a 0w30/5w30. What makes you think you need something thicker?
Nothing bad will come of it, but why sap power and gas mileage for no reason?
Maybe just to quiet it down some, it has piston slap in the morning so I thought maybe a thicker oil might help, also I so multiple starts in a day so the 30w might cling better to the sides providing better protection on every start. Plus I hear a lot here on BITOG that 5w20 is only for CAFE and that the 5w20 will wear your engine out quicker than a 5w30. I just want OPTIMUM protection thats all I am looking for, whether it be a 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, or 5w30. VERY short trips, 7+ starts per day, Florida weather. 113,000 miles.
You know that if surface finish quality is improved, the film thickness in a bearing can go down, even with the same clearances?
Is it to get better MPGs?. Sure. That doesn't mean anything is compromised. Plenty of results of high mileage vehicles on 20wt to prove that. There is a lot more to tribology and lube design/specification than some conspiracy concept.
You went >100k on 20wt so far, why didnt your engine grenade already?
Lots of start stop and short trips means the oil will be heavier anyway, as it hasn't had the chance to thermally adapt and drop viscosity, so much of what you're asking is highly irrelevant anyway.
If it says to use 5w20,use it.
If the engine is a piston slapper, thicker oil won't help; true piston slap cannot be hidden or quieted with thicker oil.
However, if it's a worn bearing you are wishing to quiet down ... THicker oil might help.
However, if it's a worn bearing you are wishing to quiet down ... THicker oil might help.
You could consider using a high-mileage 5w20 oil. Those will be a tad thicker.
Originally Posted By: dparm
You could consider using a high-mileage 5w20 oil. Those will be a tad thicker.
+1
Or.... stick with the recommended 20-weight oil and add a pint or quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 for improved viscosity in Florida's hot summers.
What is your driving style with this vehicle?
You could consider using a high-mileage 5w20 oil. Those will be a tad thicker.
+1
Or.... stick with the recommended 20-weight oil and add a pint or quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 for improved viscosity in Florida's hot summers.
What is your driving style with this vehicle?
Originally Posted By: 147_Grain
Originally Posted By: dparm
You could consider using a high-mileage 5w20 oil. Those will be a tad thicker.
+1
Or.... stick with the recommended 20-weight oil and add a pint or quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 for improved viscosity in Florida's hot summers.
What is your driving style with this vehicle?
95% short trips 3 miles or less. And about 7+ starts per day.
Originally Posted By: dparm
You could consider using a high-mileage 5w20 oil. Those will be a tad thicker.
+1
Or.... stick with the recommended 20-weight oil and add a pint or quart of Mobil 1 0W-40 for improved viscosity in Florida's hot summers.
What is your driving style with this vehicle?
95% short trips 3 miles or less. And about 7+ starts per day.
Originally Posted By: JHZR2
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: dparm
Isn't that car spec'd for 5w20? If so, just keep using that. I see no reason to run a 0w30/5w30. What makes you think you need something thicker?
Nothing bad will come of it, but why sap power and gas mileage for no reason?
Maybe just to quiet it down some, it has piston slap in the morning so I thought maybe a thicker oil might help, also I so multiple starts in a day so the 30w might cling better to the sides providing better protection on every start. Plus I hear a lot here on BITOG that 5w20 is only for CAFE and that the 5w20 will wear your engine out quicker than a 5w30. I just want OPTIMUM protection thats all I am looking for, whether it be a 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, or 5w30. VERY short trips, 7+ starts per day, Florida weather. 113,000 miles.
You know that if surface finish quality is improved, the film thickness in a bearing can go down, even with the same clearances?
Is it to get better MPGs?. Sure. That doesn't mean anything is compromised. Plenty of results of high mileage vehicles on 20wt to prove that. There is a lot more to tribology and lube design/specification than some conspiracy concept.
You went >100k on 20wt so far, why didnt your engine grenade already?
Lots of start stop and short trips means the oil will be heavier anyway, as it hasn't had the chance to thermally adapt and drop viscosity, so much of what you're asking is highly irrelevant anyway.
Well I got the car at 96,000 miles so I have no idea what the previous owner did, I met him about 4 months after I got the car, he seemed like the kind of guy to just take it to the shop every now and then to get the oil changed. I used to take my car to my local trusted mechanic, and every time they would put 5w30 in it and I would make them go back and do it with 5w20, from then on i had to remind them EVERY time to put 5w20 or they would use bulk 5w30. Im sure thats what most shops do. SO for all i know it could have got 5w30 its whole life until now.
Originally Posted By: gregk24
Originally Posted By: dparm
Isn't that car spec'd for 5w20? If so, just keep using that. I see no reason to run a 0w30/5w30. What makes you think you need something thicker?
Nothing bad will come of it, but why sap power and gas mileage for no reason?
Maybe just to quiet it down some, it has piston slap in the morning so I thought maybe a thicker oil might help, also I so multiple starts in a day so the 30w might cling better to the sides providing better protection on every start. Plus I hear a lot here on BITOG that 5w20 is only for CAFE and that the 5w20 will wear your engine out quicker than a 5w30. I just want OPTIMUM protection thats all I am looking for, whether it be a 0w20, 5w20, 0w30, or 5w30. VERY short trips, 7+ starts per day, Florida weather. 113,000 miles.
You know that if surface finish quality is improved, the film thickness in a bearing can go down, even with the same clearances?
Is it to get better MPGs?. Sure. That doesn't mean anything is compromised. Plenty of results of high mileage vehicles on 20wt to prove that. There is a lot more to tribology and lube design/specification than some conspiracy concept.
You went >100k on 20wt so far, why didnt your engine grenade already?
Lots of start stop and short trips means the oil will be heavier anyway, as it hasn't had the chance to thermally adapt and drop viscosity, so much of what you're asking is highly irrelevant anyway.
Well I got the car at 96,000 miles so I have no idea what the previous owner did, I met him about 4 months after I got the car, he seemed like the kind of guy to just take it to the shop every now and then to get the oil changed. I used to take my car to my local trusted mechanic, and every time they would put 5w30 in it and I would make them go back and do it with 5w20, from then on i had to remind them EVERY time to put 5w20 or they would use bulk 5w30. Im sure thats what most shops do. SO for all i know it could have got 5w30 its whole life until now.
PP 5w30 is quite thin. If you really want to know how thick an oil is though you need to be looking at HTHS viscosity not kv@100.
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