The Ultimate Auto Maintenance Regimen

[macarose]

Certain things keep me up at night.

Stock market? Nope.

Business issues? Every once in a blue moon.

Family? Not unless the little ones begin drinking my coffee.

Weird questions that no one in their right mind should ever ponder? Bingo!

Car maintenance seems to be an inescapable recurring thought these days. So I may as well take the dive here.

For simplicity purposes let's assume you drive 10k miles a year. Your maintenance chart may look like this.

Oil: Change Dino every 5k. Synthetic can be nice for extended intervals but on a long-term 'cost' basis, dino oil is usually the better deal.

Best Deal: Black Friday Pep Boys Special, 10 quarts Castrol & 2 Purolator Filters (Cost $12)

Air Filter: Replace every 15k. The Synwash and K&N filters will cost less in the long run. I would still replace those models at some point just because of the potential for fiber damage to the engine. Perhaps every 120k.

Best Deal: Frequent BITOG once a month and see what's up in the rebates section. Combine the air filter discount with an oil change when you drive more than 10k a year.

Coolant: Replace every 5 years

Best Deal: Pep Boys $1 Coolant, 2 gallons, every couple of years. It's more than you'll ever need.

Spark Plugs: Inspect Platinum plugs at 50k, Replace every 100k... or do it more frequently since you can buy them for free.

Best Deal: Pep Boys 16 Free Spark Plugs after rebate.

Fuel Filter: Some replace every 30k to 50k. Others don't replace them at all. I would opt for the 30k if it's easy, 50k if it's hard.

Best Deal: Can't recall ever seeing a good deal on fuel filters.

Belts & Hoses: Inspect once a month. Replace as needed. DO NOT forget about the ones not mentioned in the usual maintenance regimen. Replace those at the 7 year or 100k mark. I'm looking at you vacuum, radiator and heater hoses.

Best Deal: Shop around. No rhyme or reason here. This is also a good excuse to buy an...

Owner's Manual: Haynes tends to be very good for advanced beginners. Factory manuals are more for enthusiasts.

Best Deal: If you buy a used car, consider using the one from the local library. Other than that buy it used, new, Ebay, whatever. Just make sure you have one.

Tools: Socket set, wrench set, Snake screwdriver set, a 12 gallon drain bucket, and a few well chosen extensions will likely give you the best overall use along with a few special tools as prescribed in the owner's manual. Just make sure you have what you need for regular maintenance.

Best Deal: Black Friday. I tend to like Craftsman tools. The cheap Chinese ones are fine but why not buy what you can happily keep for the rest of your life?

Brakes: Try to turn the rotors once if you can help it. Always have a set on hand for the times when you need to replace them.

Best Deal: Black Friday. Pep Boys has Prostop Brakes for $10.99. Often times you can get the better sets which typically sell for $40 to $50. This is what I did for our two Hondas. Rotors can be had cheap at the junkyard.

Wash & Clean: In a perfect world we would wash every month and wax once to twice a year. In practice few people do it. For those that truly love their vehicle...

Best Deal: I am open to any suggestions for this one beyond the 'look for free' advice. If you don't have a garage, a top quality car cover can be a truly wonderful alternative.

Brake fluid: Follow the factory rec's. Buy a large bottle when it's on sale.

Power steering fluid: 5 years or 50k. Buy when it's on sale.

Tranny fluid: Mityvac it out once every 30k for most front wheel drive vehicles. Once every year for most minivans. Yes it seems excessive but one of the better feelings that comes with long-time ownership is when you drive a 200k+ vehicle that still shifts like brand new. Those who own Panther vehicles won't ever need to bother with it.

What else? I would prefer to have a Mityvac so I can remove all the fluids in a quick and easy fashion. But if you really want to redneck it, go and buy some clear hose from Home Depot, inhale and siphon. On second thought just get the Mityvac.

Radiator: Once every 100k or 8 years. Earlier if you notice any temperature variance. Make sure to replace the hoses and thermostat while you're there as well.

Best Deal: 1-800-Radiator and Ebay tend to be very cheap and worthwhile.

I don't think I've missed anything. Oh wait, there's...

Tires: A long lasting tire will almost always be better than the cheap low-end [censored].

Best Deal: Buy your favorite brand on a Black Friday. Have them rotated every 5k. Every 65k tire I've bought has lasted 85k to 95k by doing this.

Now I'm sure there's a few other things....

Battery: Black Friday deal. Buy one within the third year of ownership and shop around every five years for a cheap reserve.

Battery Jump Pack: The Peak Battery Jumpers can be had for $20 to $30 on Black Fridays. Beats the heck out of a AAA membership.

Battery Charger?: I would opt for a basic one with automatic shut off. Usually can be bought on sale for $20 to $30. When the dead battery or bad alternator rears it's head, this pays for itself.

Battery Cables? I like having them. The 'Emergency Kits' are usually fine for normal cars and you usually get a few fix-a-flat's with them as well.

Now what elee have I forgotten? Oh...

Gas: Always use a 3% to 5% cash back card for gas if you can find it. The average family spends at least $2000 a year on gas, and this will yield at least $60 to $100 extra in your pocket.


OK... done... feel free to modify as needed.

 

[getnpsi]

I peek the sales and promotions more often than stated above. It's in my sig...

Pepboys does have kickbutt deals now but i do also like the autozone rewards card program. If you offer to "help" other family and friends you can use your reward points to get 20 bucks off YOUR purchases at a later date. If you have a lot to buy break it up into $20 purchases to get the points faster. You can also get into the grey on ethics and return items bought at one store for store credit at another, not for money boost but if one doesn't carry the whole line for your make/model. This can happen when there are oil change specials and some people are just married to one kind of filter or already have a sizeable stash.

If you have a front wheel drive car try to park in spaces where you leave forward. I eat tires like crazy on my SRT-4 and its not burnouts or a bad alignment. It's parking the car 10 times a day in front of my job.

 

[exranger06]

Originally Posted By: macarose
Ce
Air Filter: Replace every 15k. The Synwash and K&N filters will cost less in the long run. I would still replace those models at some point just because of the potential for fiber damage to the engine. Perhaps every 120k.

Disagree about K&N being cheaper. You would have to drive your car for over 100k miles just to break even on it. A typical K&N drop-in filter costs $50-60. Add in another $15 for the cleaning kit, and you're looking at $65-75. If you're changing the filter every 15k miles, then you'd change it about 7 times in 100k miles. The cost of paper filters varies, but $10 is a reasonable cost for most cars. Changing it 7 times cost $70, the same as a K&N. And that's just breaking even, not actually saving.

 

[chubbs1]

Like that write up. very good tips, but would never use the k&N air filter either. i didn't realize PB's had so many deals. Wish I lived closer to one.

 

[hate2work]

Originally Posted By: exranger06
Originally Posted By: macarose
Ce
Air Filter: Replace every 15k. The Synwash and K&N filters will cost less in the long run. I would still replace those models at some point just because of the potential for fiber damage to the engine. Perhaps every 120k.

Disagree about K&N being cheaper. You would have to drive your car for over 100k miles just to break even on it. A typical K&N drop-in filter costs $50-60. Add in another $15 for the cleaning kit, and you're looking at $65-75. If you're changing the filter every 15k miles, then you'd change it about 7 times in 100k miles. The cost of paper filters varies, but $10 is a reasonable cost for most cars. Changing it 7 times cost $70, the same as a K&N. And that's just breaking even, not actually saving.


Plus if the K&N doesn't seal well ( which they have been known for ) they let stuff in your engine for a far longer time period. No thanks, I'll use a standard filter and change it more often.

 

[sciphi]

The K&N or other re-usable filter makes sense when the filter costs $25 and needs replacing every 30k miles due to PCV vapors.

 

[SteveSRT8]

Who changes fuel filters?

Only one car in my entire fleet still has a serviceable one. Actually 2.

But every other truck and car has the filter in the tank and is not serviceable. You replace it when you replace the pump.

Properly maintained with flushing, etc., I can see no reason to replace radiators either. We routinely run them over 200k miles, some much farther. But most of our high mileage examples are all GM trucks.

A little over simplified but I like your initiative!

 

[eljefino]

Advance's 40% off coupons can't last forever. I've stockpiled spark plugs one or two at a time rounding orders up to the next higher discount level.

One time the clerk told me he was happy I ordered one because it's all he had.

I even got a motorcycle battery with seperate acid, that won't age, to put in next spring.

Disagree on the extra set of rotors. If you have an extra car you can bring the ones you have in for warranty. They don't question me when I bring warped ones in a week before my warranty runs out; not a big return item.

Disagree on the rock hard tires. I had some Sonars (semi-generic) with a 600 something treadwear warranty that were awful in the snow. Unlike your other parts there is no performance floor nor ceiling. PS I buy used and get to try a wide variety of brands out this way.

 

[4ever4d]

Very good list,somewhat similar to my regemine.I normally don't shop the specials as i don't really have a good place for storage.I sometimes hit on filter deals as they can be stored in an unheated outdoor shop such as mine without any problems,oil is a buy as needed deal for me,i do have one change on hand for the Trailblazer as it seems to rack up miles quicker than the rest of our vehicles.It is stored inside in a house utility closet,and yes i have caught some greif over it,but it is safe so what the heck.To add one thing to the list i do wiper blades every 6mths. or no more than 1 year at most.

 

[Hokiefyd]

Changing an air filter every 15k is way overkill for most. For normal situations, you might change an air filter 2 or 3 times in 100k miles.

 

[4ever4d]

Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Changing an air filter every 15k is way overkill for most. For normal situations, you might change an air filter 2 or 3 times in 100k miles.

You really think so,i've been changing mine at 15000 and have thought maybe i should do every 10000 i'm probably being a little paranoid or overkill on this issue.

 

[eljefino]

A new air filter lets more stuff through until the big pores get plugged. Your car will adjust the fuel ratio to meet the slightly less air. IOW go longer on the filters.

 

[Hokiefyd]

The owner's manual will have a good recommendation. They often say 15k for dusty conditions, or 30k for "normal" conditions. Depending on your driving environment, up to 50k miles may be appropriate.

We just bought my parents' '05 Acura MDX, which spent most of its life out west (so no pollen, etc). It still has the original air filter in it. After 57k miles, I inspected it, tapped out the loose stuff, and put it back in. Unless it's really clogged, there's little reason to change air filters all the time.

Me, I typically change them every 2-3 years. The heavy pine pollen here will coat them up a bit every spring.

 

[hate2work]

I think the seal is at least as important as the filter itself. You can have the best air filter in the world, but if it's not sealed properly, the dirt will simply bypass the filter and enter your engine. Old-timers used to use a layer of grease on the filter lip in hopes of getting a better seal.

 

[The Critic]

Here is mine:

Oil: Every 3,000 to 5,000 miles. Preferably every 3,000 miles, as you will never get to when you intend to. Oil type does not matter, as synthetic oils still become contaminated with fuel dilution and blow-by.

Transmission Fluid: If you do full flushes, every 60k. Otherwise, drain and refill every 30k.

Brake Fluid: At every brake pad replacement, do a full flush. However, if the OEM recommends a specific interval, follow it.

P/S Fluid: Full flush at the same time of Transmission Flush.

Coolant: I recommend rebuilding the cooling system every 10 years or 150k, whichever comes first, with all new hoses, radiator, thermostat and water pump. Most extended life coolants are fine until that point.

Engine and Cabin Air Filters: On an as-needed basis, but generally every 15k.

Tire Rotations: Every oil change, the tires should be removed and rotated and the brakes should be inspected.

 

[Scienceman]

Wow y'all have a plan!

 

[SteveSRT8]

Originally Posted By: 4ever4d
Originally Posted By: Hokiefyd
Changing an air filter every 15k is way overkill for most. For normal situations, you might change an air filter 2 or 3 times in 100k miles.

You really think so,i've been changing mine at 15000 and have thought maybe i should do every 10000 i'm probably being a little paranoid or overkill on this issue.
Originally Posted By: eljefino
A new air filter lets more stuff through until the big pores get plugged. Your car will adjust the fuel ratio to meet the slightly less air. IOW go longer on the filters.


Note that he is driving a 300C, which does not have a mass airflow system. It is speed/density instead.

Very different reaction to clogged filters.

But 10k? That's a little "bitog' for sure!

 

[Spyder7]

Originally Posted By: The Critic


Tire Rotations: Every oil change, the tires should be removed and rotated and the brakes should be inspected.


That's too frequent IMHO. For year round tires, I'd recommend every 10k. For tires removed seasonally, I recommend no rotation unless you're putting more than 25k/year on it.

JMO. I think for oil: 5k is a good rule of thumb and on the conservative side; some (like Civic owners and Extended-OCI folk) will go a lot longer than 5k on oil and do fine - it depends on driving conditions and habits/style.

-Spyder