Absolutely. The auto parts stores are always pairing a decent oil with a filter you have never heard of, or vice versa. For example, in recent years they have been pushing Fram oil. I’m just not there. I don’t view Fram as an oil brand and tbh even now don’t accept Mobil 1 as a filter brand.
The Honda Oil Filter Thread
- Thread starter Hohn
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I don't believe this is something they would normally comment on.
But also would caution that no assumptions should be made of dP based on any other parameter.
If the specs look odd for one reason or another i'd move on to the next option.
No, because 1) I'm not the source of the claim, and 2) the claim is not that stubby filter raise oil pressure, but that a particular filter raises oil pressure and happens to be stubby. In other words, it's stubby and raises oil pressure, not "it raises oil pressure *because* it is stubby".
The claim for these HAMP filters having higher oil pressure is pretty common online:
https://honda-tech.com/forums/honda...ilter-better-building-up-oil-pressure-608690/
https://www.hondacivicforum.com/forum/engine-internal-11/hamp-oil-filters-36955/
After some digging, I found this:
I interpret that text as "the filter has a lower bypass cracking pressure and/or higher bypass flow so when you rev your race engine to the moon, you don't lose oil pressure from overwhelming the media or from the bypass not being able to flow enough."
It seems plausible to me then that the original HAMP claim was "reduces oil pressure loss at higher RPM" and over the years of making it around the internet, the "reduces pressure loss" turned into "raises oil pressure" as if just slapping on a different filter to the same lube pump and engine would magically bump up oil pressure. Which we know logically just cannot happen.
Moreover, the pressure loss improvement is present in a filter that just happens to be smaller. The physically smaller size is not the reason for the claimed pressure enhancement. Indeed, less media area would tend to INCREASE restriction, which is why you are correct to raise your eyebrows at the apparently claim that somehow a filter with less area can raise operating oil pressure. That's not reasonable and your spidey sense is not misleading you.
Stubby filters only help oil pressure if the media design and total area result in a low dP vs flow. Just like any oil filter ... the dP vs flow curve is all about flow performance of the media and the total media area. The oiling system is typically about 15 times more flow restrictive than the oil filter.
But the clincher is if the filter is designed well, the difference in size isn't really going to make enough difference in dP vs flow to matter on an engine with a PD oil pump. There will always be more than enough oil flow to the oiling system unless the oil pump is shot or the designer of the oiling system way under sized the pump.
But the clincher is if the filter is designed well, the difference in size isn't really going to make enough difference in dP vs flow to matter on an engine with a PD oil pump. There will always be more than enough oil flow to the oiling system unless the oil pump is shot or the designer of the oiling system way under sized the pump.
All they are saying is that the bypass valve is designed to work well so that it minimizes loss of oil flow when the dP across the filter rises. So that can be done in two ways: 1) Make the bypass valve setting relatively low, and 2) make the bypass valve flow area relatively large.After some digging, I found this:
I interpret that text as "the filter has a lower bypass cracking pressure and/or higher bypass flow so when you rev your race engine to the moon, you don't lose oil pressure from overwhelming the media or from the bypass not being able to flow enough."
It seems plausible to me then that the original HAMP claim was "reduces oil pressure loss at higher RPM" and over the years of making it around the internet, the "reduces pressure loss" turned into "raises oil pressure" as if just slapping on a different filter to the same lube pump and engine would magically bump up oil pressure. Which we know logically just cannot happen.
Moreover, the pressure loss improvement is present in a filter that just happens to be smaller. The physically smaller size is not the reason for the claimed pressure enhancement. Indeed, less media area would tend to INCREASE restriction, which is why you are correct to raise your eyebrows at the apparently claim that somehow a filter with less area can raise operating oil pressure. That's not reasonable and your spidey sense is not misleading you.
Any spring loaded bypass valve is "a unique release valve that dynamically adjusts to the condition within the filter". Marketing word salad to the max.
I might have a lead on some Roki filters for the common m20 interface. Roki is still making several OEM filters for Subaru and Mazda. The Subarus don’t seem to be great options because the bypass spec is much higher. However, the Mazda RX8 filter seems to darn near a clone of the old A01 Roki Honda filter.
This application crosses to a 6607 for Fram, but the pictures of the Mazda filter look much closer to 7317 size.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/2854316084...1T8KMF-RP6&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
I just looked on the WIX website and the number is 57356, not 51356. The filters appear to be the same, except the 57356 has a burst pressure of 363 psi, whereas the other filter has no burst pressure rating.
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51356 will show up in many cross references and is a valid fitment. As you mention, 57356 is the current Wix recommendation.
The 5/1356 Wix/(NapaGold) used to be (pre 2011-12) the Wix spec filter for Hondas. Then Wix changed to the current 5/7356 with a different baseplate design. Wix said the change was for better filter 'thread engagement'. Initially Wix was using a nitrile adbv on the 57356 which was a no bueno for me. Not too much later they got on the stick and switched to proper silicone which the 5/1356 always used. The last Napa Gold 1356 I used is linked below. You can see the difference in base plate design between it and the current 5/7356.
https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/napagold-1356-cut-open-6200-mi.320812/
Most of you will probably already be aware that the Tokyo Roki 15208AA160 "black" filter that comes on Japan-built Subarus is not available in the USA. US Subaru dealers replace it with 15208AA15A "blue", made by Fram, at the first oil change. It's widely understood that the Roki filter is superior. Subaru fans have been buying Mazda N3R1-14-302 Tokyo Roki filters, intended for the RX-8, in the belief that they are the same filter as the Subaru 15208AA160. But are they? I decided to find out.
Here we have a disassembled Subaru black next to a disassembled Mazda filter.
I...
Here we have a disassembled Subaru black next to a disassembled Mazda filter.
I...
You already mentioned after this that the 15400-PLM-A01 is NOT easy to find anymore.
Also the 15400-PCX-006: is actually 15400-PCX-306, not 006: The current worldwide S2000 filter Made in Thailand by Mahle. Excellent quality, synthetic media.
With that the PCX-306 seems to be slightly different than the PCX-004. My Honda filter cap (from Honda) does not quite fit the new one correctly. Maybe just as I was working it this time and not having my normal 17mm wrench but I could not get the filter off using this. The PCX filters call for 18 ft/lbs IIRC or 7/8 of a turn after gasket contact. The gasket is between 2 metal rings that contact and help keep it from vibrating off. I had it on my Pilot which also has a REALLY poor access for the filter without making a mess. I had to use my old metal band wrench way up at the top by baseplate to get it to loosen. In the middle of filter it was crushing the can. You can also see on bottom where the filter cap was not seating all the way and allowing it to slip. I'll try to get a picture of the access next time. Basically if you have the PCX filter with end cap you can not get a ratchet on it for the middle or the the Lisle or Gearwrench fingers version. You need to use a regular 17mm wrench on the outer nut portion.
Also as other stated, the PCX is too wide for some motors. It won't fit my daughters '08 CRV or my '17 Accord as not enough clearance on sides.
On the Premium Guards there is also the Parts Plus PH2876EX, same as the PG4612EX which are both also slightly shorter than the factory 15400-PLM-A02 and the Carquest Premium 84356.
Here’s a CQP 84356 I cut open.
2016 Acura RDX 126k miles 6303 mile oci.
Out: M1 ESP 0w30
Off: Carquest Premium 84356
In: M1 ESP 0w30
On: Pentius PLXL 7317
Filter was on all winter. Temp range 60f to -20f.
Out: M1 ESP 0w30
Off: Carquest Premium 84356
In: M1 ESP 0w30
On: Pentius PLXL 7317
Filter was on all winter. Temp range 60f to -20f.
Great post, and thank you for the correction. I’ve requested a mod edit my OP.
I’ll know soon enough whether my 10th gen Accord can handle the S2K filter or not. The cap wrench I have seems to fit it pretty well, but it’s never had to do it under actual torque, so we will see.
im sure there are some A01's out there. ive been a hoarding a bunch some for a long time and am always on the hunt for more. 
yes i have issues. but dont we all? lol
yes i have issues. but dont we all? lolSo what's the consensus on the best filter for Hondas that aren't made by Fram, and is actually attainable?
The only consensus you'll get is there is none (consensus, that is.)
the previous fram ultra that had the wire backed media were excellent filters and everyone loved those.
i think its any of the PG ones which is carquest premium from AAP or microgard select for oreillys
there is a few other ones that use pg but idk if there as relatively available, the above are available local
pentius makes some good filters too but thats amazon i believe
So, just went through a bunch of posts after my old stock of fram xg7317 ran out and noticed the new one is completely different. My local parts stores filters from various brands are all identical to the new Fram xg construction so moving on from those. Saw the issue with amsoils filters recently as well.
So like mentioned run the oem A02 or A03 if I can source it? or run the PG4612ex? Kinda lost on what to throw on now
So like mentioned run the oem A02 or A03 if I can source it? or run the PG4612ex? Kinda lost on what to throw on now