Synthetic oil differences

OilUzer said:
Speaking of something other than the base oil, I like Moly but can't find a good low Noack syn oil with lots of Moly and reasonable price. I would use Amsoil SS 10W-30 if it was %40-50 off.
so all my engines have been suffering for a long time without moly. I mean I don't have to have it and been buying oils that use cheaper replacements.
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According to recent analyses, Valvoline EP has 300+ppm of moly.
 
I prefer Shell so Pennzoil/Rotella but also will use Mobil 1 and Delvac as well. They all have their differences, some pro's and con's. Either one of the known good oils will do just fine though.
 
In my OPINION Mobil 1 products generally have superior base oils when compared to the competition. However you must look at the complete package after additives are introduced as they play a significant role also.
 
OilUzer said:
FYI, Wal-Mart had Havoline Full Syn PRO-DS 5W-30 Dexos 2 for $19.x (6 qt). Lower price than ST. I got 2 boxes just in case to have a little stash.
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Quaker State I know is $18 right now at Walmart, but that's only for five quarts. Quaker State what I understand is very close to Rotella additive package. I don't know much Havoline..
 
OVERKILL said:
PAO has more oxidation resistance than Group III and lower baes for example.

M1 EP 0w-20 is basically straight PAO, while some of the oils have next to none.
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Q:
Do you know what's in M1 EP 10W-30? One of my favorite oils and good price.

I just don't buy 20 grade oils. 0W-20 is recommended for my Tundra and I'm using M1 EP 10W-30 instead and the thought crossed my mind to mix it with M1 EP 0W-20 due to the good or better base oil.
Then I heard bitog voices screaming don't mess with the formulation ... and was afraid of little molecules of different bases fighting inside my engine and causing heat and friction. lol :alien::alien:
I have a feeling more risk than rewards ... but what's your opinion regarding this particular mix?
 
Gene K said:
Some of their synthetics are at the higher end on HTHS so it depends on exactly what you value.
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But when you're running a thinner oil are you getting the lubrication, the lubrication the engine needs at higher temperatures? And won't the oil burn off much quicker being thinner?
 
OilUzer said:
Q:
Do you know what's in M1 EP 10W-30? One of my favorite oils and good price.

I just don't buy 20 grade oils. 0W-20 is recommended for my Tundra and I'm using M1 EP 10W-30 instead and the thought crossed my mind to mix it with M1 EP 0W-20 due to the good or better base oil.
Then I heard bitog voices screaming don't mess with the formulation ... and was afraid of little molecules of different bases fighting inside my engine and causing heat and friction. lol :alien::alien:
I have a feeling more risk than rewards ... but what's your opinion regarding this particular mix?
Click to expand...

It would be pure speculation on my part about M1 EP.

However I suspect 10W-30 is the least demanding of basestock of any GF-6 Grade.
 
Scott S said:
But when you're running a thinner oil are you getting the lubrication, the lubrication the engine needs at higher temperatures?
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That's exactly what HTHS is supposed to represent. How much viscosity the bearings see with the elevated temp and pressure. That's why we have A3/B4 5W-30 (>3.5 HTHS) and A5/B5 GF-6A 5W-30 (>2.9). That's why many European companies don't spec a grade like 5W-30 they require an A3 or A5 instead.
 
OilUzer said:
Q:
Do you know what's in M1 EP 10W-30? One of my favorite oils and good price.

I just don't buy 20 grade oils. 0W-20 is recommended for my Tundra and I'm using M1 EP 10W-30 instead and the thought crossed my mind to mix it with M1 EP 0W-20 due to the good or better base oil.
Then I heard bitog voices screaming don't mess with the formulation ... and was afraid of little molecules of different bases fighting inside my engine and causing heat and friction. lol :alien::alien:
I have a feeling more risk than rewards ... but what's your opinion regarding this particular mix?
Click to expand...
I don't mix. I ascribe to the "a fully formulated product doesn't need help" philosophy, which is also why I don't obsess over moly levels. If its trimer, it doesn't need to be as high to do the same job and of course there are synergies with other FM and AW compounds we can't see in a UOA/VOA.

The EP 10w-30 is 5-10% GTL, that's all that's called out in terms of base oils (no PAO is mentioned). So not a very useful SDS for that oil.
 
Gene K said:
That's exactly what HTHS is supposed to represent. How much viscosity the bearings see with the elevated temp and pressure. That's why we have A3/B4 5W-30 (>3.5 HTHS) and A5/B5 GF-6A 5W-30 (>2.9). That's why many European companies don't spec a grade like 5W-30 they require an A3 or A5 instead.
Click to expand...
But typically you don't see the HTHS on the oils .. so basically the higher HTHS the better.
 
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