Synthetic Oil Brand and Weight for Powerstroke 6.7 HO

the issue with running a non approved oil in a 6.7 PS is the oiling system is terribly designed. it takes a good while for oil to get to the main bearings after starting. couple this with it being a HO model putting more stress through the crank i wouldn’t give the warranty department a reason to deny your warranty. couldn’t imagine the cost to R&R a power stroke.
Depending on what is done 20-25K plus install.
 
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You’re saying that between two oils of the same grade you gained 2 MPG on one of them? That’s amazing.

The Rotella 15w-40 had actually sheared down to about 12.5 cst @ 100° (with a small amount of fuel dilution per Blackstone’s calculations). But no, I don’t credit the oil change with the entire 2mpg, it just makes me feel better about paying twice as much for oil. Factors like a new air filter, new fuel filter and a fuel delivery on the same day might have played a role (I use bulk fuel, this delivery switched me from 10% #1 to straight #2 with summer fuel additives… that being said, this was a year ago and my mileage didn’t drop significantly this past winter).

The truck had 30k on it at the oil change, might have been the sweet spot for breaking in, maybe the Schaeffer’s isn’t doing anything other than making me think the engine finally sounds healthy.

On the other hand, maybe the engine was dying for those friction modifiers Schaeffer’s is so proud of, and maybe the T6 formulation just didn’t mesh with my rings.

That’s the problem with a lot of these anecdotes, even with UOAs there are too many other factors. But anecdotes and more compelling evidence from others really suggests that Schaeffer’s is a good option on these engines, especially if you plan to keep it for a few hundred thousand miles like I do.
 
The Rotella 15w-40 had actually sheared down to about 12.5 cst @ 100° (with a small amount of fuel dilution per Blackstone’s calculations). But no, I don’t credit the oil change with the entire 2mpg, it just makes me feel better about paying twice as much for oil. Factors like a new air filter, new fuel filter and a fuel delivery on the same day might have played a role (I use bulk fuel, this delivery switched me from 10% #1 to straight #2 with summer fuel additives… that being said, this was a year ago and my mileage didn’t drop significantly this past winter).

The truck had 30k on it at the oil change, might have been the sweet spot for breaking in, maybe the Schaeffer’s isn’t doing anything other than making me think the engine finally sounds healthy.

On the other hand, maybe the engine was dying for those friction modifiers Schaeffer’s is so proud of, and maybe the T6 formulation just didn’t mesh with my rings.

That’s the problem with a lot of these anecdotes, even with UOAs there are too many other factors. But anecdotes and more compelling evidence from others really suggests that Schaeffer’s is a good option on these engines, especially if you plan to keep it for a few hundred thousand miles like I do.
Blackstone is useless for determining whether a viscosity deviation is due to fuel dilution or mechanical shear of the VM. If that’s the analysis company you were basing all of this on then you have no idea the mechanism.

And you’re correct that you’ll never, ever conclusively ascribe a fuel economy difference to the oil in everyday driving. There are so many uncontrolled variables that the effect of the oil is deep in the noise. So given that, why did you say that that was the difference in your post?
 
5k interval with 20k on the truck. Same engine. Lucas 5w40 ck4

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Forget Rotella. It shears out of grade (per UOAs), is highly volatile (12%), and foams like a draft beer (55 ml, >2.5x the max allowed). It also contains no friction modifier and ZDDP is <800 ppm P per latest UOAs. You won't find anyone serious about oil using that junk. People who recommend Rotella are just using mental gymnastics to inflate their cheap purchase to be something greater than it actually is. Shell also spends ~$60 million/yr marketing it.

I'm not impressed with any common major brand CK-4 oil. The bar is just set too low, and they're all in a race to the bottom. I also wouldn't put weight on the WSS-M2C171-F1 spec. It's just a mirror of CK-4. Whether or not a brand carries it is just a matter of whether or not they feel like paying royalties to Ford.

In general, oil is cheap. Even top shelf boutique oils are cheap in the grand scheme of things. I'd want to treat that engine with the best available such as HPL HDMO or Amsoil Signature HDMO. I have much more trust in these brands than I do some mediocre cert from a major brand. For example, CK-4 allows 20 ml of foam where as HPL's standard is 0 ml. If it foams any whatsoever, they don't ship it. API's standards for rust prevention is a 4 hour test in freshwater where as HPL's is a 24 hour test in saltwater. Amsoil and Red Line's standards are similar.
I don't think the average BITOGer pays enough mind to anti-foam how important it really is. Thank you for highlighting it.
 
Sounds like a great advice for those in the market for a new vehicle, doesn't it?
"Run a boutique oil, or go get yourself a beater!" - Appalling.

Notwithstanding the benefits of HPL and others, i.e., longer OCI, cleanliness, etc., he will get full performance using an approved oil. And will also get the expected life of the engine. Wether a Camry, a Ford 250, or a 3 million dollar CAT Genset.
I don't know, I find it somewhat appalling that someone who spent $80k on a truck is griping about $200 worth of oil once a year.


The point is not run Gucci or get yourself a beater, the point is that fancy oils really are not a considerable cost at all compared to fuel, tires, or even insurance.

It's unseemly in the same way that the Ferrari owner gripes about the $12k it costs him to replace all his exotic carbon/carbon brakes when they wear out. Well, yes. You're driving a Ferrari though. What were you expecting?
 
It's unseemly in the same way that the Ferrari owner gripes about the $12k it costs him to replace all his exotic carbon/carbon brakes when they wear out. Well, yes. You're driving a Ferrari though. What were you expecting?
Except you have good, cheaper options when it comes to PS motor oil.
 
Running phillips 66 guardol xt 5-40 in my 24 6.7 h.o. same maker as ford motorcraft oil.Get it from a local dealer for around $25 a gallon.Meets fords specs.
Seems good so far only have 3,300 miles on truck did first oil change at 800 miles going to change it again this summer going to put less than 5,000 miles a year on the truck.
Going to get it tested and go from there,hate to spend money on boutique oils when I change it every 3,500 miles. Bought the truck last April so less than 3,500 miles in a year.
 
I'm trying to get the stuff together to do an oil change on my son's truck . 2020 F250 6.7 Diesel . He usually takes it to a shop so he's no help . He pulls a tool trailer occasionally . South Louisiana . 5-40 or 15-40 ?
 
Pay strict attention to the temp/viscosity chart for your specific year model 6.7. Ford had issues with the rear main bearing spinning because a lot of old timers swore that 15w-40 was the best weight for diesels no matter what, they thought using it a few degrees below what the manual stated was no big deal, until they spun bearings on cold starts in cold weather.

Ford even loosened up main bearing clearances because old timers couldn't break old habits and didn't pay strict attention to the owner's manual. Valvoline PBE 5w-40 is great and outperforms 15w-40 in the 6.7 when weather and cold starts are factored in (lately Ford recommends 5-40 over 15-40 for Severe Duty) , $25/gallon delivered when ordering a 5 gal bucket ($124) directly from Valvoline. Napa also carries it at $27/gal. 15-40 is preferred by Ford in the older 6.0 motors due to how much shearing takes place in the 6.0
 
Pay strict attention to the temp/viscosity chart for your specific year model 6.7. Ford had issues with the rear main bearing spinning because a lot of old timers swore that 15w-40 was the best weight for diesels no matter what, they thought using it a few degrees below what the manual stated was no big deal, until they spun bearings on cold starts in cold weather.

Ford even loosened up main bearing clearances because old timers couldn't break old habits and didn't pay strict attention to the owner's manual. Valvoline PBE 5w-40 is great and outperforms 15w-40 in the 6.7 when weather and cold starts are factored in (lately Ford recommends 5-40 over 15-40 for Severe Duty) , $25/gallon delivered when ordering a 5 gal bucket ($124) directly from Valvoline. Napa also carries it at $27/gal. 15-40 is preferred by Ford in the older 6.0 motors due to how much shearing takes place in the 6.0
I got it for $23/gallon on the first order signing up for the messaging. Tax and shipping insurance included.
Thanks for the info.
 
Forget Rotella. It shears out of grade (per UOAs), is highly volatile (12%), and foams like a draft beer (55 ml, >2.5x the max allowed). It also contains no friction modifier and ZDDP is <800 ppm P per latest UOAs. You won't find anyone serious about oil using that junk. People who recommend Rotella are just using mental gymnastics to inflate their cheap purchase to be something greater than it actually is. Shell also spends ~$60 million/yr marketing it.

I'm not impressed with any common major brand CK-4 oil. The bar is just set too low, and they're all in a race to the bottom. I also wouldn't put weight on the WSS-M2C171-F1 spec. It's just a mirror of CK-4. Whether or not a brand carries it is just a matter of whether or not they feel like paying royalties to Ford.

In general, oil is cheap. Even top shelf boutique oils are cheap in the grand scheme of things. I'd want to treat that engine with the best available such as HPL HDMO or Amsoil Signature HDMO. I have much more trust in these brands than I do some mediocre cert from a major brand. For example, CK-4 allows 20 ml of foam where as HPL's standard is 0 ml. If it foams any whatsoever, they don't ship it. API's standards for rust prevention is a 4 hour test in freshwater where as HPL's is a 24 hour test in saltwater. Amsoil and Red Line's standards are similar.
Would Schaeffers quality be up there with HPL, Redline and Amsoil?
 
Oil change log from this weekend:

11 year old truck:
3 gallon box of Delo XSP 15w-40 from Walmart - $32 after rebate.
Fleetguard LF16035 - $17

$49 premium-ish oil change. See you again in the fall. Rinse and repeat except Delo XSP 5w-40.

After I got the truck cleaned up the 13 year old Mazda got a fresh XG7317 and a $16 rebate bottle of M1-EP 5w-30 and the 16 year old Toyota got a FE9972 with another $16 rebate bottle of M1-FS 0w-40. Likely Christmas before I touch those again. Off to advance to dump 6 gallons of used oil.

I have zero needs for boutique oil.
 
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I've been running Valvoline Premium Blue 5W40 in my 2019. I get it at NAPA for around $25/gallon.

My difficulty has been the filter. Somebody said the Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator, and Purolator was bought out by a huge conglomerate who lowered quality. So I have tried the Baldwin filter because it is rated for much better filtration, but then some guys say you don't want really high filtration because it'll increase pressures. And then there's chatter about the bypass inside the Motorcraft filter being designed specifically for the engine, etc. etc. Ugh... it's annoying trying to decipher that stuff.
 
I've been running Valvoline Premium Blue 5W40 in my 2019. I get it at NAPA for around $25/gallon.

My difficulty has been the filter. Somebody said the Motorcraft filters are made by Purolator, and Purolator was bought out by a huge conglomerate who lowered quality. So I have tried the Baldwin filter because it is rated for much better filtration, but then some guys say you don't want really high filtration because it'll increase pressures. And then there's chatter about the bypass inside the Motorcraft filter being designed specifically for the engine, etc. etc. Ugh... it's annoying trying to decipher that stuff.
A common misconception about high efficiency oil filters.
 
Just an information point
my 6.7 has over 200k trouble free miles (not a HO)
first ~80k vavoline 5w40 or 15w40
last 120k+ kirkland 15w40
10-12k oci
donaldson filters
~50% towing

I have a bunch of UOA posted here but not in awhile
 
Just an information point
my 6.7 has over 200k trouble free miles (not a HO)
first ~80k vavoline 5w40 or 15w40
last 120k+ kirkland 15w40
10-12k oci
donaldson filters
~50% towing

I have a bunch of UOA posted here but not in awhile
I also have a 6.7 non-HO with 195k miles. It has run on T6 5W-40 with a Motorcraft filter for 99% of its life, following a 7,500-mile OCI. For the last two oil changes, I switched to Amsoil Signature Series with the Amsoil filter, and now I run 12,000–15,000-mile OCIs.

I've never done a UOA. I live in a place where it's below freezing for half the year, and I cold-start that thing every morning. I've also used it for towing across the country, going dirt bike racing.

Anyways, the 6.7 is really one of the best diesel motors in its class and any oil you pick, weather it be on the approved list, or the manufacturer claims it meets it, will be just fine. IMHO
 
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I recently purchased a 2024 Ford F-250 with the 6.7 Powerstroke HO diesel. I'm looking for recommendations on which synthetic oil I should run. Currently looking at Rotella T6 and Mobil Delvac Extreme as they both meet the Ford WSS-M2C961-A1 spec. Of these two oils, which would rank better? Also the owners manual recommends 10w-30 for "normal usage" but 5w40 for "severe duty service". I will be primarily towing my 9,000 lb travel trailer RV but will also run around empty.

When I've looked online, it seems Rotella T6 5w40 is highly recommended and used but very little info regarding Rotella T6 10w30. Also very little info for people running Mobil Delvac Extreme in the 6.7 Powerstroke. The one caviet with the Delvac Extreme is that it is only offered in 10w30 or 15w40.

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DELVAC extreme, hands down.

I've seen real world testing with it on our large Cummins industrial engines. It's amazing. Or at least it was in 2015 or so when I saw the impossibly good condition in engine teardown.
 
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