I don't think we will have to respond to defend against the "Red Coats" or "Commies" attacking nor will we have to be prepared to for a high-speed evacuation in a dooms-day scenerio. I see pros and cons to using dinos and synthetics. In colder temps synthetics will flow better at startup but dinos will create more friction thus generating more heat that will bring the engine to operating temps quicker. With the short driving distances, moisture and fuel dilution will be your biggest enemy. Moisture not only in the engine but through the exhaust system which could cause the exhaust system to rot out faster than normal.
Syn or Dino given these driving conditions?
- Thread starter KORKL
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So what's better? More friction from dino allowing the engine to heat up quicker? or synthetic allowing less friction in cold; thus allowing slower wear of engine? LOL
Synthteics will have less wear when an engine is not run for short periods - moisture and high fuel mixture counter those benefits of synthetics? LOL2
Bottom line neither situation is good for short runs in cold temps.
Too many new BITOGers are looking to preserve their engines at the point when their cars rolled off the assembly line.
I recall a thread from several years ago stating that engines will out last the car bodies and I will include chassis, drive train, and the other necessary components of an operating automobile.
Guess I'm skrewed either way? Conventional and sleep easy it would seem.
No, not actually. I would run a good dino and change it as you initially thought - 3 mo/3k mi. I would also try to have your wife drive longer routes on colder days. As XPR said, try to take the car for a 20 min drive once a week; I'd take it on the highway - driving time is better than driving speed. I wouldn't race it on a short 70 mph run, but a longer 55+ mph would definately dry out the exhaust and heat up the fluids.
Still, won't synthetic, even if changed on a shorter 4 month OCI protect better against fuel and moisture better than conventioal? Keep in mind, I will be the last owner who drives my cars.
I think we are splitting hairs here. If it was me just run the synthetic in the winter and be done with it. Sounds like the extra cost of the syn will be canceled out by the added peace of mind for quicker oil flow in cold temps. Congrats on planning to be the last owner of your car - just like me.
Moisture is moisture. Synthetic isn't going to counter moisture any better than conventional. The only thing that will counter that is heat to dry it out. I see no practical reason to run cynthetic in your situation other than the "feels good" component.
Just because it makes some people feel better doesn't mean it is doing anything different than the conventional in your situation.
I would recomend athe economy oil change such as a supertech filter and jug of oil or any FAR oil you can get. In the summer you could probably go 6 months with a premium conventional. so that asves you 1 oil change a year.
Just because it makes some people feel better doesn't mean it is doing anything different than the conventional in your situation.
I would recomend athe economy oil change such as a supertech filter and jug of oil or any FAR oil you can get. In the summer you could probably go 6 months with a premium conventional. so that asves you 1 oil change a year.
Oh B S!!!! Splitting hairs? I can not begin to believe in all the pro's and con's to using one oil vs another that have been discussed here on BITOG that between syn and conventional one would not be better than the other in my driving conditions.
Additionally, If synthetic would not be considered beneficial in my cirumstances, then I would begin to wonder why anyone would waste their time and money shopping for synthetic instead of picking up plain-jane conventional.
there is NO reason any dino, even Supertech from walmart, can't do the job you are asking.
That is an excellent question for 95% of the people on this board. Most will never realize any meaningful benefit from synthetic but it makes them feel good.
Ok lets get more specific ........
.....What Is:
your current mileage?
the engine and what does the manufacturer specify in the manual?
total miles driven per year?
your current rate of oil consumption?
& have you run synthetic before? If so what brand, type and the price you paid for it. The maybe we can be more specific on recommendations.
Ok. 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan. 3.3L
Driven 2 miles to work, 2 miles back home...Then 4 hours later, driven 0.6 miles to school to get kids, then 0.6 miles straight back home... Driven to church once a week which is 10 miles out, 10 miles back. About once a month 40 mile round trip up and down the highway to inlaws. About 2 times per/year driven 600 mile round trip to brothers...and that's really about it, other than short errands, groceries, b-day party, etc etc..
Driven 2 miles to work, 2 miles back home...Then 4 hours later, driven 0.6 miles to school to get kids, then 0.6 miles straight back home... Driven to church once a week which is 10 miles out, 10 miles back. About once a month 40 mile round trip up and down the highway to inlaws. About 2 times per/year driven 600 mile round trip to brothers...and that's really about it, other than short errands, groceries, b-day party, etc etc..
Advantages of synthetic oil and why they don't work for your situation.
1. Oxidative stability of synthetic base oil can endure high temperatures such as in Turbo Chargers as well as extend drain intervals.
(your oil will still be water logged with the acids forming as the water reacts with combustion byproducts, you have no turbo and extended drains with acid forming in the crankcase is not recommended.
2 Extreme low temperature flow is an advantage of synthetics. I use it in my arctic work truck. I often have temperatures of -30 to -40f where i work and this is the only ways the trucks can start.
(Your winter is not cold enough to see any tangible benefit in start up protection between the conventional and synthetic)
3. Stronger additive package for extended drains.
Yes the TBN is higher, but unless you run it long enough each time you start the caravan you are leaving moisture in the crankcase which is going to attack any oil just as fast.
If all your trips were 10 or more miles I would say you could go synthetic but extend the drain. However since the duty cycle is actually severe duty because of the soccer mom routine With the required short OCI's I see no advantage at all, in protection, performance or otherwise in running a synthetic motor oil. If you like to give money away I can provide you with my Paypal, I actually gave you something worthwhile.
1. Oxidative stability of synthetic base oil can endure high temperatures such as in Turbo Chargers as well as extend drain intervals.
(your oil will still be water logged with the acids forming as the water reacts with combustion byproducts, you have no turbo and extended drains with acid forming in the crankcase is not recommended.
2 Extreme low temperature flow is an advantage of synthetics. I use it in my arctic work truck. I often have temperatures of -30 to -40f where i work and this is the only ways the trucks can start.
(Your winter is not cold enough to see any tangible benefit in start up protection between the conventional and synthetic)
3. Stronger additive package for extended drains.
Yes the TBN is higher, but unless you run it long enough each time you start the caravan you are leaving moisture in the crankcase which is going to attack any oil just as fast.
If all your trips were 10 or more miles I would say you could go synthetic but extend the drain. However since the duty cycle is actually severe duty because of the soccer mom routine With the required short OCI's I see no advantage at all, in protection, performance or otherwise in running a synthetic motor oil. If you like to give money away I can provide you with my Paypal, I actually gave you something worthwhile.
dino (penzoil or gtx, havoline) change at 3k miles... case closed, simple huh?? yep! take care of that tranny, it will go before your motor will. no worries.
btw is your other name SFCP?? lol
btw is your other name SFCP?? lol
I am seeing that "synthetics" are being viewed as pre Mobil vs. Castrol arbitration era synthetics.
Reality check - all over the counter synthetics (except for RP, RL, Amsoil which are now popping up in stores) in the common 5w-20, 5w-30, & 10w-30 which 90%+ of us are using, are Grp 3 crude oil based products. They are not PAO or Esters. Grp 3 oils respond to moisture and fuel dilution the same as Grp 2/2+ dinos.
Reality check - all over the counter synthetics (except for RP, RL, Amsoil which are now popping up in stores) in the common 5w-20, 5w-30, & 10w-30 which 90%+ of us are using, are Grp 3 crude oil based products. They are not PAO or Esters. Grp 3 oils respond to moisture and fuel dilution the same as Grp 2/2+ dinos.
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