Hello. This is my first post. I have a '97 Wrangler tj 4 banger with 100,000 miles. Doesn't use oil and has good oil pressure. Several days ago I had my oil and filter changed and the mechanic put in 20W50. I had been running 10W30. Now I hear a slight clicking or tapping noise when I crank up and it increases (not in volume)as I accelerate until road and wind noise drowns out the engine noise. Could the heavier weight oil be causing this and where would the noise be coming from--valve, lifter, or oil pump? Should I immediately change back to 10W30 or wait until my next oil change (2,500 miles)? Sorry for the lengthy questions.
Switching from 10W30 to 20W50
- Thread starter Dixiejack
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DJ,
TK has a good question.
Sounds old school. Maybe a 15w40, but not a 20W-50.
I'd swap oils fairly soon.
PS
TK has a good question.
Sounds old school. Maybe a 15w40, but not a 20W-50.
I'd swap oils fairly soon.
PS
I'd change the oil as soon as it was possible, 20w50 is a bit too heavy for this time of the year, even in Georgia.
The tapping noise is probably coming from the valve lifters. The thicker oil is not allowing the lifters to completely fill with oil, and so there is excess lash at the lifter to cam area. You were not having problems or oil consumption issues with the 10w30, so you should go back to that grade as soon as possible.
Thanks for the replies. The mechanic said I needed to go to a heavier weight oil because of the mileage. Another question. I bought the Jeep used and the oil was black. Didn't know how many miles was on the oil, so I had it serviced. After about 2 or 3 hundred miles the oil was black (not sludgy). I have changed it 4 times and after about 2 or 3 hundred miles it is black. You can't see the dip stick through it. I was thinking after several oil changes, it would clear up. Guess I need to add a cleaner (cringe) I have seen Lucas mentioned on several Jeep forums. Is this the best way to go? Thanks.
I'm sorry, but when it comes to oil, your mechanic is a complete idiot:
Use Auto-RX if you want, but DO NOT USE ANY OTHER LUBRICATION SYSTEM CLEANER!
A little off topic, but given the mileage on your Jeep, I'd run a good fuel system cleaner through it as well. I'd get Gumout Regane, which you can pick-up with your oil and filter over at Wally-World...
[ November 03, 2004, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
Given it's maintenance history though, I'd recommend switching to a good HDEO 15w40 such as Mobil Delvac 1300 in combination with a Motorcraft filter, both of which should be available at your local Wal-Mart.
Use Auto-RX if you want, but DO NOT USE ANY OTHER LUBRICATION SYSTEM CLEANER!
A little off topic, but given the mileage on your Jeep, I'd run a good fuel system cleaner through it as well. I'd get Gumout Regane, which you can pick-up with your oil and filter over at Wally-World...
[ November 03, 2004, 10:36 AM: Message edited by: Jelly ]
I agree 100,000 miles is not a lot of miles, stick with the recommended weight unless your trying to solve a particular problem. I don't think that switching to a 20w50 will help with engine cleanness, either. A "diesel" might help a little but I doubt it's needed.
-T
-T
I live in GA...since you probably should get that 20W50 out (though you probably will make it fine through the winter)...use this time BEFORE changing the oil the run a Fuel Injector/Valve cleaner...I always use Chevron with Techron - some times I run a double dose - two bottles. After completely running through the tank of gas -the get your oil changed. 10W30 is fine if you aren't having any oil consumption problems. I usually run a 15W40 non synthethic except during winter - I'll switch to a 15W40 semi-synthetic (hard to find now - Quaker State use to sell one
) OR Shell Rotella 5W40 for winter.
In a car I really like I run Mobil 1 15W50 and do extended oil change intervals. My understanding is that a synthetic oil will really help clean your engine - but don't run an extended oil change interval on the first oil run with a synthethic as it will remove a lot of "dirt" and use your filter up quickly. Do the factory severe service interval for your 1st run of synthehic.
Dollar wise I would go with Mobil 1 synthetic for that 1st oil change IF YOU CHOSE to do synthetics then you can switch to a more expensive synthetic for longer interval oil changes. I can find Royal Purple and Amsoil in the Atlanta area on shelves for "sexy synthetics". Never used them though.
In a car I really like I run Mobil 1 15W50 and do extended oil change intervals. My understanding is that a synthetic oil will really help clean your engine - but don't run an extended oil change interval on the first oil run with a synthethic as it will remove a lot of "dirt" and use your filter up quickly. Do the factory severe service interval for your 1st run of synthehic.
Dollar wise I would go with Mobil 1 synthetic for that 1st oil change IF YOU CHOSE to do synthetics then you can switch to a more expensive synthetic for longer interval oil changes. I can find Royal Purple and Amsoil in the Atlanta area on shelves for "sexy synthetics". Never used them though.
I thought the color of the oil (barring sludge) wasn't an indicator of it's performance??? I have an '03 Mazda MPV that I bought new. I ran Motorcraft 5w20 for the first 5000 miles (2-3 changes total) then M1 0w20 & 0w30 at 5k OCI and I now have 30k miles. It burns no oil but it gets pretty dark fairly quickly. I can see that the timing chain and inside the valve cover is spotless so I'm not concerned about the color. I have had cars that can go 5000 miles and leave the oil looking brand new when drained. I don't know what's going on but I'm not really concerned.
Yes, this is the same report as those that have switched to GC! I have experienced it too. It is from years of use of thin aka 30 weight oils that have caused build up of crap inside your engine that the 50 weight is now causeing an 'interference'.
Is it the wrong oil? No and the mechanic is not an idiot. The viscosity is temperature based. You can safely use the 20-50 in Georgia year round. You shouldn't need to change the oil every few hundred miles. Tell us how long it takes the 20-50 to turn black...it probably won't be black after the same mileage...
Is it a problem? I'm not sure. I've experience the same tapping noise after switching to M-1 15-50 after years of neglect with BMW 5-30. It has slowly gone away. It will take many miles.....sometimes almost as many as those driven with 5-30! Auto-rx may speed up the engine recovery. I'm continuing on with a 50 weight.
Is it the wrong oil? No and the mechanic is not an idiot. The viscosity is temperature based. You can safely use the 20-50 in Georgia year round. You shouldn't need to change the oil every few hundred miles. Tell us how long it takes the 20-50 to turn black...it probably won't be black after the same mileage...
Is it a problem? I'm not sure. I've experience the same tapping noise after switching to M-1 15-50 after years of neglect with BMW 5-30. It has slowly gone away. It will take many miles.....sometimes almost as many as those driven with 5-30! Auto-rx may speed up the engine recovery. I'm continuing on with a 50 weight.
70% M1 5w30 30% M1 15/50
Or Mobil Delvac 1 which is full synthetic.
Sure, but I'd run Delvac 1300 for a good time and make sure everything is "good" on the inside...then make the switch to D1, Rotella T 5w-40, M1 T&S, M1 0w-40, GC 0w-30 (SLX)...
I agree. I lived in Georgia for a few years. Wonderful state.
20W-50 is not an appropriate viscosity for this engine, imho. While it is true that climate can dictate viscosity, it doesn't relate in this instance.
Going beyond a 15w40 even in the hot Summer months is not doing this engine any favors.
I ordered a bottle of Auto-rx today. Should have it in a few days and I am going to change oil and filter and add the Auto-rx. I will only be driving about a 100 miles by then. Thanks for all the advice. Hope that solves my tapping noise and prevents any future problems. Mileage will tell.
Dixiejack, I suggest using a 15w40 CI-4/SL "diesel" motor oil when you perform your Auto-Rx cleaning. The high TBN will help with the Auto-Rx cleaning. In the colder parts of the country it is possible to find API CI-4/SL rated 10W-30 motor oils but probably not in Georgia. 15w40 is a little thicker than what you really need but again the high TBN will help with the Auto-Rx cleaning.
I can't see the wisdom of your mechanic putting 20W-50 motor oil in an engine that has 100,000 Miles. If you had 200,000 miles or very high oil consumption then maybe.
I can't see the wisdom of your mechanic putting 20W-50 motor oil in an engine that has 100,000 Miles. If you had 200,000 miles or very high oil consumption then maybe.
If it is getting so black that you can not read the dipstick in a few hundred miles you probably have slude in the engine!!!
While I am not a fan of old dino 20W50 these days it should not cause you any issus in Ga. I ran M1 15W50 year round in Ga.When I was useing dino I did the 15W50 warm months 10W30 cold months routine!
If I still lived in Ga. and did not want to run synthetic oil I would be running Delvac or Delo 15W40 year round. If you want to run 10W30 their is no problem with that either.
I recomend that you buy a bottle of Auto-Rx and follow the directions!It will gently clean the engine out over the course of thosands of miles!
While I am not a fan of old dino 20W50 these days it should not cause you any issus in Ga. I ran M1 15W50 year round in Ga.When I was useing dino I did the 15W50 warm months 10W30 cold months routine!
If I still lived in Ga. and did not want to run synthetic oil I would be running Delvac or Delo 15W40 year round. If you want to run 10W30 their is no problem with that either.
I recomend that you buy a bottle of Auto-Rx and follow the directions!It will gently clean the engine out over the course of thosands of miles!
Since I only have about 150 miles on the 20w50, would it be okay to add the Auto-RX and change the oil and filter at 1,500 miles and add another Auto-RX treatment, using 10w30 and then get back to using 10w30 as in the past?
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