Do I need cotter pins/ The dealership doesn't sell them, will home depot cotter ppins work or harbor freight cotter pins? Thanks.
Struggling with 2003 Camry last night
- Thread starter engineer20
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There was an old lady who swallowed a bird. How absurd, she swallowed a bird. (sing along for the best part
Perhaps she'll die!
Perhaps she'll die!
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
There is no torque spec for spark plugs.
You use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 foot steel pipe on the end for leverage and pull as hard as you can til they stop.
You use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 foot steel pipe on the end for leverage and pull as hard as you can til they stop.
https://youtu.be/mwAuR979zNY
He used a puller thing, is that thing required or should I just use a pickel fork?I heard a pickel ford or fork ball joint seperator was risky, at h freight, they have the fork and something else, would that thing be needed? I have one 25% coupon left that I can use today, I bought a 6 inch c clamp yesterday, what else do I need for the ball joint? also, I got a 6 pt regular socket for the serp belt pulley but think a 12 pt might be better as you can grab it at more points rathe rthan the 6 limited pts which may be in hard to reach areas, and I got a see thru go thru ratchet set at h freight, that has a 19mm socket, would that be helpful? thanks.
He used a puller thing, is that thing required or should I just use a pickel fork?I heard a pickel ford or fork ball joint seperator was risky, at h freight, they have the fork and something else, would that thing be needed? I have one 25% coupon left that I can use today, I bought a 6 inch c clamp yesterday, what else do I need for the ball joint? also, I got a 6 pt regular socket for the serp belt pulley but think a 12 pt might be better as you can grab it at more points rathe rthan the 6 limited pts which may be in hard to reach areas, and I got a see thru go thru ratchet set at h freight, that has a 19mm socket, would that be helpful? thanks.
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Originally Posted By: Nick1994
There is no torque spec for spark plugs.
You use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 foot steel pipe on the end for leverage and pull as hard as you can til they stop.
I used to do that, but once I got my impact wrench I started using that, and count to sixty once the plug seats.
Don't forget to use locktite. Make sure to use the red stuff.
There is no torque spec for spark plugs.
You use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 foot steel pipe on the end for leverage and pull as hard as you can til they stop.
I used to do that, but once I got my impact wrench I started using that, and count to sixty once the plug seats.
Don't forget to use locktite. Make sure to use the red stuff.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Guys, I don't think he is playing any more as he is not even making any effort but rather cut and paste from one topic in to another. May be we will get lucky and moderator would take pity on this saga and will shut it down.
Agree. Even I have lost interest. It was fun for a little while but now these posts should be deleted and OP should be banned, at least temporarily.
Guys, I don't think he is playing any more as he is not even making any effort but rather cut and paste from one topic in to another. May be we will get lucky and moderator would take pity on this saga and will shut it down.
Agree. Even I have lost interest. It was fun for a little while but now these posts should be deleted and OP should be banned, at least temporarily.
a pitman arm puller
Originally Posted By: supton
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
There is no torque spec for spark plugs.
You use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 foot steel pipe on the end for leverage and pull as hard as you can til they stop.
I used to do that, but once I got my impact wrench I started using that, and count to sixty once the plug seats.
Don't forget to use locktite. Make sure to use the red stuff.
I know everything sounds silly but I'm a novice, but I was made aware red threadlocker requires heat to remove, blue doesn't and is what comes from the factory with the caliper, which is why it's so hard to remove. I'm just curious about the pitman arm puller or is a tie road remover also required for the ball joint or no.
After the compression test, I added some oil (just a small amount) in the first spark plug hole, and the compression jumped to 180. I then put everything in and my check engine light went on. Drove about 20 minutes to autozone and they checked my check engine light and said it was the ignition coil, which was 79.99 for one, and it may have been the first one. Then, I went to oreilly's across the street, told me the same thing. Afterwards, they shut my engine off and I turned it back on and the check engine light went off, so I guess I'm fine and the "ignition coil" issue was due to the extra oil in the spark plug hole, or did I actually mess up the ignition coil only the light isn't working, or something? Thanks. I just want to make sure that's fine, and if the ignition coil has an issue and I keep driving, what's the worst that could happen or can you drive with a bad ignition coil for quite some time? Thanks.
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
There is no torque spec for spark plugs.
You use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 6 foot steel pipe on the end for leverage and pull as hard as you can til they stop.
I used to do that, but once I got my impact wrench I started using that, and count to sixty once the plug seats.
Don't forget to use locktite. Make sure to use the red stuff.
I know everything sounds silly but I'm a novice, but I was made aware red threadlocker requires heat to remove, blue doesn't and is what comes from the factory with the caliper, which is why it's so hard to remove. I'm just curious about the pitman arm puller or is a tie road remover also required for the ball joint or no.
After the compression test, I added some oil (just a small amount) in the first spark plug hole, and the compression jumped to 180. I then put everything in and my check engine light went on. Drove about 20 minutes to autozone and they checked my check engine light and said it was the ignition coil, which was 79.99 for one, and it may have been the first one. Then, I went to oreilly's across the street, told me the same thing. Afterwards, they shut my engine off and I turned it back on and the check engine light went off, so I guess I'm fine and the "ignition coil" issue was due to the extra oil in the spark plug hole, or did I actually mess up the ignition coil only the light isn't working, or something? Thanks. I just want to make sure that's fine, and if the ignition coil has an issue and I keep driving, what's the worst that could happen or can you drive with a bad ignition coil for quite some time? Thanks.
Nick1994
$100 site donor 2024
You don't need a coil. It just had a temporary misfire from the oil you put in. No need to replace the coil
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Guys, I don't think he is playing any more as he is not even making any effort but rather cut and paste from one topic in to another. May be we will get lucky and moderator would take pity on this saga and will shut it down.
You so crazy Vikas! Bitog doesn't have moderators anymore.
Guys, I don't think he is playing any more as he is not even making any effort but rather cut and paste from one topic in to another. May be we will get lucky and moderator would take pity on this saga and will shut it down.
You so crazy Vikas! Bitog doesn't have moderators anymore.
I saw this scotty kilmer video on the power windows, silicone lube will make it go down faster. What's better? WD 40 costs the most, but CRC makes silicone lube as well as liquid wrench (seems to be most ubiquitous, sold even at h freight) but is the wd40 worth the extra cost? He said look for a waterproof one and all of them are waterproof. What's the best brand for a trhottle body cleaner, and you can use carb cleaner right as some are carb and throttle body cleaners, or no/ I heard not to use brake cleaner on the throttle body. Is CRC worth the price premium as they have the most expensive throttle body cleaner, whereas you can get autoquest from meijer, or supertech, or the mac's brand from napa for around 2 dollars, whereas the crc is in the upper 4 dollar range. Or what about valvoline throttle body cleaner? Which one's the best? Thanks.
https://youtu.be/cl-7LtQuRfs
https://youtu.be/cl-7LtQuRfs
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And is "flipping a tire" a good idea, as in taking it off, flipping the side, and then reinstalling it? I've called around, belle tire wnats 20, this tire place in detroit wants 8, discount wants like 16, but this one guy at a discount offered me 6 to flip the tire, so I'll be going there. As you know, when I had starter trouble in September this year, only three months ago, I had a flat as well and bought a new tire from discoutn tire, a barum bravarius 2. Now, 3000 miles later, due to the ball joint and being out of alignment, the bravarius is completely worn around the edges, near like a 2-3/32 and was told it'd be showing steel belts soon. That smae discount tire knows that since I only got it 3000 miles ago, they can give me a 60-70% discount on my next tire, but a one time deal only. He said he wouldn't warranty it becasue something "mechanical" was going on, so it'd be ineligible for such a deal, but the other front tire, is wearing a little on the inside edge, but it's not nearly as pronounced and it's a goodyear integrity and still has plenty of edge treadwear left. So for the bravarius, should I change and get a new tire and take his 60-70% discount, or should I flip it for now, then do the ball joint and then align it as well as the struts, and then get a new tire after the suspension/alignment work, show them the paperwork for that, and could they maybe warranty out my tire, or just get the new tire without the warranty and take his 60-70% discount he offered? How do you get tire places to honor their warranties, as they seem not to want to honor them and find any excuse not to do so. I had a similar experience with the 09 taurus at belle tire, it's worn along the inside edges, was told I need new tires, but I'm still going to use for one more year as the tread is still a 5/32, but that belle told me I need new tires, but really I don't , had it checked elsewhere and said I cuold still go a year on those tires, and the belle tire told me it's because I didn't align it, but I just aligned the taurus 1/2 a year ago and recently balanced the tires and rotated the tires all the time, yet they still gave me the excuse of me being negligent and so therefore they won't be warrantying out the tire, it's a 65k bridgestone ecopia (heard they make the plus which is a 70k tire now) and I've driven 45k on them, so I should still get a year out of them, but he woulnd't honor my warranty.
Anyways, I got off topic, so would flipping the tire be a good idea? I was told this tire was an assymetrical tire and there's an "outside" and "inside" which I saw on the tire and which the guy at discount pointed out to me, should I flip it, what's the worst that can happen if it's assymetrical and I flip it, or should I not flip the tire?
The check engine light hasn't lit up since sunday, I guess the extra oil was burned off and now the ignition coil is fine.
Anyways, I got off topic, so would flipping the tire be a good idea? I was told this tire was an assymetrical tire and there's an "outside" and "inside" which I saw on the tire and which the guy at discount pointed out to me, should I flip it, what's the worst that can happen if it's assymetrical and I flip it, or should I not flip the tire?
The check engine light hasn't lit up since sunday, I guess the extra oil was burned off and now the ignition coil is fine.
And what should I do about warranties or places that don't honor warranties? I called the goodyear tire place where my struts were done 40k or about 4 years ago in 2011 for the rears or 30k and 3 years ago in 2012 for the fronts, and I did all my struts there, just one year after the other. But now, i'm looking into doing my rears, and was told by belle tire that monroe has a lifetime part warranty, so I should go back to the goodyear place for them to do it for me. So I called the goodyear place, a guy picked up and said, yes, the part is lifetime and that the labor is 1 year. Then, I called back yesterday and another person picked up, and he was mean, belligerent on the phone, and he gave me [censored] that the struts only have a 3 year part warranty and 1 year labor warranty, [censored]. I then called monroe and emailed them and they confirmed that the struts have a lifetime warranty, if they were monroe, but that I need a receipt of it scanned/faxed to them and then call them , and they'll send me a new part and then once I have the old part off, I send it back to them and they'll provide me with shipping, but normally, if you don't go directly to monroe, the place you get it done will just take it to monroe so the customer doesn't have to deal with it, and to add insult to injury, I got a copy of my receipt, it clearly stated that there is a lifetime warranty on the part and a 12 month warranty on the labor, so the guy saying 3 years was lying to my face, and I have proof, so should I just have them honor their warranty so I don't ahve to send it to monroe, and warn them of my sources/evidence of the lfietime warranty and nowhere is it stated as a 3 year warranty, or should I just go directly to monroe about it? The thing is, on my receipt, they use a part number according to the tire places's inventory, which isn't the same as the monroe part number, so there's no way for me to find out the monroe part number unless I go back to the tire place and ask or have them write off and verify it, so it'll be dificult for me to take up this issue with monroe, so there's my dilmena, and if i go to goodyear, they might lie about the part since they already lied about the "3 year warranty" and then I won't be able to get the right strut, so what should I do about this warranty dilmena? Thanks. I can elaborate more later, but am busy at the moment.
Originally Posted By: engineer20
And what should I do about warranties or places that don't honor warranties? I called the goodyear tire place where my struts were done 40k or about 4 years ago in 2011 for the rears or 30k and 3 years ago in 2012 for the fronts, and I did all my struts there, just one year after the other. But now, i'm looking into doing my rears, and was told by belle tire that monroe has a lifetime part warranty, so I should go back to the goodyear place for them to do it for me. So I called the goodyear place, a guy picked up and said, yes, the part is lifetime and that the labor is 1 year. Then, I called back yesterday and another person picked up, and he was mean, belligerent on the phone, and he gave me [censored] that the struts only have a 3 year part warranty and 1 year labor warranty, [censored]. I then called monroe and emailed them and they confirmed that the struts have a lifetime warranty, if they were monroe, but that I need a receipt of it scanned/faxed to them and then call them , and they'll send me a new part and then once I have the old part off, I send it back to them and they'll provide me with shipping, but normally, if you don't go directly to monroe, the place you get it done will just take it to monroe so the customer doesn't have to deal with it, and to add insult to injury, I got a copy of my receipt, it clearly stated that there is a lifetime warranty on the part and a 12 month warranty on the labor, so the guy saying 3 years was lying to my face, and I have proof, so should I just have them honor their warranty so I don't ahve to send it to monroe, and warn them of my sources/evidence of the lfietime warranty and nowhere is it stated as a 3 year warranty, or should I just go directly to monroe about it? The thing is, on my receipt, they use a part number according to the tire places's inventory, which isn't the same as the monroe part number, so there's no way for me to find out the monroe part number unless I go back to the tire place and ask or have them write off and verify it, so it'll be dificult for me to take up this issue with monroe, so there's my dilmena, and if i go to goodyear, they might lie about the part since they already lied about the "3 year warranty" and then I won't be able to get the right strut, so what should I do about this warranty dilmena? Thanks. I can elaborate more later, but am busy at the moment.
Yep - we see you are busy - 3 lengthy rambling posts within minutes of each other - you should consider seeking some professional guidance and help of some kind for whatever compels you to do what you do here.
And what should I do about warranties or places that don't honor warranties? I called the goodyear tire place where my struts were done 40k or about 4 years ago in 2011 for the rears or 30k and 3 years ago in 2012 for the fronts, and I did all my struts there, just one year after the other. But now, i'm looking into doing my rears, and was told by belle tire that monroe has a lifetime part warranty, so I should go back to the goodyear place for them to do it for me. So I called the goodyear place, a guy picked up and said, yes, the part is lifetime and that the labor is 1 year. Then, I called back yesterday and another person picked up, and he was mean, belligerent on the phone, and he gave me [censored] that the struts only have a 3 year part warranty and 1 year labor warranty, [censored]. I then called monroe and emailed them and they confirmed that the struts have a lifetime warranty, if they were monroe, but that I need a receipt of it scanned/faxed to them and then call them , and they'll send me a new part and then once I have the old part off, I send it back to them and they'll provide me with shipping, but normally, if you don't go directly to monroe, the place you get it done will just take it to monroe so the customer doesn't have to deal with it, and to add insult to injury, I got a copy of my receipt, it clearly stated that there is a lifetime warranty on the part and a 12 month warranty on the labor, so the guy saying 3 years was lying to my face, and I have proof, so should I just have them honor their warranty so I don't ahve to send it to monroe, and warn them of my sources/evidence of the lfietime warranty and nowhere is it stated as a 3 year warranty, or should I just go directly to monroe about it? The thing is, on my receipt, they use a part number according to the tire places's inventory, which isn't the same as the monroe part number, so there's no way for me to find out the monroe part number unless I go back to the tire place and ask or have them write off and verify it, so it'll be dificult for me to take up this issue with monroe, so there's my dilmena, and if i go to goodyear, they might lie about the part since they already lied about the "3 year warranty" and then I won't be able to get the right strut, so what should I do about this warranty dilmena? Thanks. I can elaborate more later, but am busy at the moment.
Yep - we see you are busy - 3 lengthy rambling posts within minutes of each other - you should consider seeking some professional guidance and help of some kind for whatever compels you to do what you do here.
Yawn. Eng20 no longer amuses me. I don't even bother to skim his posts. Hopefully he will soon leave us.
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