Struggling with 2003 Camry last night

[engineer20]

now the camry has a trans fluid leak, could it be from a sheared off bolt from this summer when I tried to drop the pan but failed?
aside from that, it was confirmed by another mechanic this weekend that the water pump is leaking, i don't need to replace the belt, the serp belt is ok but i might as well replace it with the pump and it's got high miles and is rusty anyways
there is an oil leak from the valve cover gasket (he said he could retorque but said that could break the gasket so he advised not touching it) but it wasn't a bad leak, so I could wait till later and would probably have to replace that again, and there's a timing chain cover leak (how should I deal with this)? and the rear struts are leaking oilk the fronts are weak but still ok, and the lower ball joint is bad and should be replaced and then I ened to align the wheels as my tires are all from this year (newish) and they are already going bald on the edges and in danger of having steel belts show!

anybody know how to remove a caliiper? i'm trying to do so on my taurus so I can bring it into this reman place near detroit where they can remain your caliper for cheap. I might as well also bring the other rear caliper in, since a lot of ppl suggest doing calipers in pairs, and having that remainend on the left rear, or do you recommend leaving the left rear alone? thanks. I plan to do the water pump tmrw or next weekend. and then try at the ball joint, if a wrench is stuck you can hit it with a hammer, but i saw some ppl use sledge hammers, is that better or no? i don't have a sledge hammer, so should i get one or is a regular hammer enough, what about a rubber mallet, or a regular hammer is better than a rubber mallett? anybody have any detailed brake diagrams, etc? Thanks. that'd help a lot.

 

[Tdbo]

You have a plethora of struggles.
Maybe you should consider walking.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: engineer20
now the camry has a trans fluid leak...

I'm going to need to add a 12 to this meter. Or maybe have the peg break off and the needle spin around and around.

 

[dishdude]

Poor e20 is getting his stories mixed up. Earlier it was the Taurus that had the broken pan bolt.

http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php/topics/3886903/1

 

[kschachn]

I've been convinced for a while now that he's a troll, plain and simple. No one is this incompetent and can still breathe unaided.

It's someone sitting at home laughing hysterically at both the things they are making up, and at everyone who is responding. Me included.

 

[oldmaninsc]

Originally Posted By: kschachn
I've been convinced for a while now that he's a troll, plain and simple. No one is this incompetent and can still breathe unaided.

It's someone sitting at home laughing hysterically at both the things they are making up, and at everyone who is responding. Me included.

Exactly. I figured if you really need to know how to remove a brake caliper then you probably shouldn't be working on the vehicle to start with.

 

[spackard]

nevermind

 

[Tosh]

e20:how u can work on computers with NO hammers?!

 

[Traction]

I so miss the old BITOG from years ago, when there were real solutions to real problems! I didn't even know what a troll was back then. Now, it seems have to turned into a endless tire/oil/repair mindless shopping site, with the headlights on, but nobody behind the wheel. What a waste of the internet. SEND HELP!

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: Traction
I so miss the old BITOG from years ago, when there were real solutions to real problems!

The OilDropServer days? That's when I joined up.

 

[philipp10]

I think we need more posts from Engineer 20. He has provided me with much needed humor...He actually reminds me of a few very incompetent engineers I have worked with that are incapable of concentrating long enough to finish a job. All were eventually fired at some point.

 

[Subdued]

lmao this guy is a trip

 

[engineer20]

I didn't get it mixed up, I fixed the taurus trans pan leak. now the camry trans pan is slowly leaking too. I also sheared its bolt but unlike the taurus, it didn't leak right away.

 

[Tosh]

Or how about this golden oldie? Sing along y'all!

There was an old lady who swallowed a fly. I don't know why she swallowed a fly. Perhaps she'll die.

 

[engineer20]

Another issue is the cold. It's normally cold around this time of year here, thirties as average high, but due to el nino, we've been spoiled with abnormally warm weather in the 50s and 60s, and we broke some records last weekend when it was in the 60s! So i'm not used the cold again. This weekend, it will be "cold" or colder than before, but in reality, just "normal" weather, but I won't be accustomed to it since it's been so warm previously. It's cold today and will be tomorrow and this weekend as well when I plan to do my repairs. Any tips for cold weather repairs? I'd usually change my oil, etc in a t shirt as long as it's not terribly cold outside, because I don't want to get the sleeves dirty, etc, but should I wear a dirty jacket/coat when I do my repairs, or any mechanics with experience working in the cold? Should I wear gloves? Not normal gloves, but mechanics gloves, will those help my hands stay warm, but more importantly, not get in the way, as when you wear gloves, they interfere and you can't feel things or have as much grip, etc as you would with your bare hands. Anybody else work on cars in the cold? Any tips? Gloves? etc, and I worry about my long sleeved clothing getting dirty as I already have "work" t shirts.

 

[engineer20]

I was able to get the caliper on the taurus off. This weekend, I need to reinstall it, and I'll do the water pump first with serp belt and then do the ball joint.
On my way from work to home, I pass by many auto stores and a h freight. I don't live anywhere near an auto parts store (nearest is like 8 miles away, not close) so I need to do it now while I'm on my way back tonight.


So what tools will I need for this ball joint job? I saw in various videos, people used clamps, a sledgehammer, and this other thing, like a puller or somethign that looks familiar as I've seen it in the auto parts stores.


So far, I loaned out a ball joint press as well as a ball joint fork. What else do I need? Hammers/wrenches, etc? I got a long wrench set from Harbor Freight bought for the brakes on teh Taurus, but I realized h freight, from shopping around, has the longest which is good and I figure these will be helpful for the ball joint job. I also have a breaker bar, I have a simple hammer, do I need a sledge hammer?


Also, I don't see cotter pins, do I need new cotter pins, and can I get auto parts stores replacements, or get them from the dealership?


I looked at the PCV valve last weekend, it rattled, so I left it alone, but it had a layer of oil residue last weekend. After the ball jonit, of lower priority, is the valve cover gasket, I want to look at it, if I look at it, do I have to replace it, or can I reuse it, and what does "retorquing" of the valve cover gasket mean? just the bolts before I pull the cover, so retorquing means don't pull the cover and retorque the bolts (I have a torque wrench now from H freight), or do I pull the cover, and then retoruqe, as the valve cover gasket doesn't have anything to retorque, it's not the gasket, but the valve cover, that metal silver thing, past the plastic cover, that I remove, right, or do I not remove that and retorque those bolts? as in unscrew and retorque with a torque wrench to like 30 something inch pounds. And if I pull the cover, I have to replace the gasket, I figure, but I'd get to look at my timing chain. What should I look for in terms of a leak in that department, as I have a small timing chain cover leak as well. Thanks.


What else do I need for the ball joint job? i need to make sure to get it now, before it's too late and I have harbor freight coupons for this weekend. Should I remove the brake caliper or not remove but move it off the rotor and move it out the way, so I don't need to bleed the brakes, but if I do remove it, the brakes need to be bled, right? The auto shops, they can do bleeding and a flush, can you DIY flush it or is there no way to do it, except the baster method and bleeding? Thanks. He cut the castle nut off.


IF the castle nut is stuck, what advice do you have? Thanks.


what is that silver clamp thing at 3:26 in the video? Will spring clamps help, as I bought a set of them at autozone for cheap at 4.99 yesterday
He uses air tools, I don't need air tools, do I/ Thanks? I don't see him using a press, would a presss be useful? I was told, no, you don't need one, but can I use one or would it make thigns easier or no? Thanks.

 

[cptbarkey]

Originally Posted By: engineer20
I was able to get the caliper on the taurus off. This weekend, I need to reinstall it, and I'll do the water pump first with serp belt and then do the ball joint.
On my way from work to home, I pass by many auto stores and a h freight. I don't live anywhere near an auto parts store (nearest is like 8 miles away, not close) so I need to do it now while I'm on my way back tonight.


So what tools will I need for this ball joint job? I saw in various videos, people used clamps, a sledgehammer, and this other thing, like a puller or somethign that looks familiar as I've seen it in the auto parts stores.


So far, I loaned out a ball joint press as well as a ball joint fork. What else do I need? Hammers/wrenches, etc? I got a long wrench set from Harbor Freight bought for the brakes on teh Taurus, but I realized h freight, from shopping around, has the longest which is good and I figure these will be helpful for the ball joint job. I also have a breaker bar, I have a simple hammer, do I need a sledge hammer?


Also, I don't see cotter pins, do I need new cotter pins, and can I get auto parts stores replacements, or get them from the dealership?


I looked at the PCV valve last weekend, it rattled, so I left it alone, but it had a layer of oil residue last weekend. After the ball jonit, of lower priority, is the valve cover gasket, I want to look at it, if I look at it, do I have to replace it, or can I reuse it, and what does "retorquing" of the valve cover gasket mean? just the bolts before I pull the cover, so retorquing means don't pull the cover and retorque the bolts (I have a torque wrench now from H freight), or do I pull the cover, and then retoruqe, as the valve cover gasket doesn't have anything to retorque, it's not the gasket, but the valve cover, that metal silver thing, past the plastic cover, that I remove, right, or do I not remove that and retorque those bolts? as in unscrew and retorque with a torque wrench to like 30 something inch pounds. And if I pull the cover, I have to replace the gasket, I figure, but I'd get to look at my timing chain. What should I look for in terms of a leak in that department, as I have a small timing chain cover leak as well. Thanks.


What else do I need for the ball joint job? i need to make sure to get it now, before it's too late and I have harbor freight coupons for this weekend. Should I remove the brake caliper or not remove but move it off the rotor and move it out the way, so I don't need to bleed the brakes, but if I do remove it, the brakes need to be bled, right? The auto shops, they can do bleeding and a flush, can you DIY flush it or is there no way to do it, except the baster method and bleeding? Thanks. He cut the castle nut off.


IF the castle nut is stuck, what advice do you have? Thanks.


what is that silver clamp thing at 3:26 in the video? Will spring clamps help, as I bought a set of them at autozone for cheap at 4.99 yesterday
He uses air tools, I don't need air tools, do I/ Thanks? I don't see him using a press, would a presss be useful? I was told, no, you don't need one, but can I use one or would it make thigns easier or no? Thanks.


here ya go bud: https://techinfo.toyota.com/

 

[artbuc]

Yes, you need a 5hp air compressor and 3/4" impact. This is absolutely required to remove the ball joint but will also help you torque the valve cover. For your valve cover, set your compressor to exactly 140 psi, no more and no less. You will never have another leak. You will also need a variety of other tools. Since you do not have a tool rental store close-by, I suggest you rent everything they have and then you won't get stuck in the middle of the job without the proper tool. Now, if you do not want to torque the valve cover do not look at it because you are right, once you look at it you must torque it. It is like the third law of thermodynamics. I reference the third law because this is the way engineers can communicate with each other. You are on the right track and I believe your car struggles will soon be over.

 

[artbuc]

I forgot about the castle nut. Castle nuts are not required. They are used only because of our nostalgic attachment to medieval times. They are critical for hay wagons but totally unnecessary for ball joints and valve covers. If you have trouble with your castle nuts, first construct a moat and then melt the nut with your new air compressor. The moat is critical for fire safety. Be careful that your sword does not get stuck in the stone.

 

[engineer20]

I had my caliper remanned at this reman caliper place about 30 miles from home, I forgot to bring the spring, and he said just bring it back with the spring if I can't do it, and it turns out, I can't and have struggled with it. any tips on how to loosen that spring? I looked at the reman caliper at the parts stores, they used the same bosch housing with a ford motor company signature in the housing so u know even if it's "wearever" it's still dcecent and is an original housing, so it's good to use, but they had the spring on it already, everything was good, but I frogot the spring! can i use brake spring pliers to get that spring in? the videos all have them with the spring in, not taken, out, so they aren't helpful thanks.

I did a compression test today. My leftmost cylinder where I started had the lowest at around 150, and then it went up to about 160 and 165, and 164 for the other cylinders using the autozone loaner tool. How do you do the oil trick? Would that be useful for me for my first cylinder with the 150 reading or is it not that far apart to be enough? Also, when I took my spark plugs out (you take all them out, right?) the first or leftmost spark plug was the dirtiest whereas the spsark plugs the 2 on the right were the cleanest, but the 2 on the right were also on the tightest and i had to use a breaker bar to loosen the last one. What should the spark plugs be torqued too and should I use anti seize/ Nickel (silver color) or copper (coppery colored?) or don't use anti seize on ngk plugs? Thanks.