Struggling with 2003 Camry last night

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Serious help and answering my questions would be appreciated. I'm just curious, nothing wrong with that. Like warranty honoroing, if they won't honor it, sprays or silicone lube, and flipping a tire, is it ok, esp if it's asymetrical, because I'm about to do it today after work if it's ok.
 
Go buy a book on car repair, seriously. You don't seem to have the facilities to grasp the logic behind the construction of your car. You appear to need things spelled out in a level of detail that is unreasonable to expect from a message board. You need a skilled someone who is available in-the-flesh to assist you. Failing that go to the library or Amazon.com and search for "auto repair" books.

If you want a question or two answered then go to the appropriate sub-forum and ask a question or two Without Writing a Book.
 
Originally Posted By: Joshua_Skinner
Go buy a book on car repair, seriously. You don't seem to have the facilities to grasp the logic behind the construction of your car. You appear to need things spelled out in a level of detail that is unreasonable to expect from a message board. You need a skilled someone who is available in-the-flesh to assist you. Failing that go to the library or Amazon.com and search for "auto repair" books.

If you want a question or two answered then go to the appropriate sub-forum and ask a question or two Without Writing a Book.


This^^^^^^ and this...many of the questions E20 poses here (and on ToyotaNation) have already been answered on the net here, there, SOMEwhere, if only E20 would take HIS time to search, research, learn and practice...
Like many on the internet, they just want to fulfill their curiosity, but not really interested in LEARNING for themselves....to them it's a SELFISH ONE WAY bargain for those who really want to share their knowledge with them...
 
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No one can possibly have this many issues with one car, it's statistically impossible.
 
Originally Posted By: dishdude
No one can possibly have this many issues with one car, it's statistically impossible.

well, I happen to be one unlucky fellow.

I have another post on toyotanation, I won't duplicate here, so that kitcam doesn't get mad, but now my oil drain plug won't drain, or come off, and I have reason to believe one of the mechanics who "tightened my oil filter" who was incompetent and didn't believe I had a ball joint issue, did it (purposely or by accident, I do not know) could've been on purpose so I'd go back to him to fix it, but you really think I'd go back there if he already messed up my car once, so that he'd take advantage and mess up some more stuff with my car while I'm down there? or if he did it by acident, do you think i'd go back ever again, as that speaks of his incompetenece?
the trans case thing behind the pan began leaking after his inspection too, coincidence, or his doing? And what would he have done to make the trans case leak?

see post here
http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-5t...-working-9.html

post 127, also toyotanation allows uploading images now, whereas this site doesn't but i'll give those temp picture places a try and post some pictures as evidence.
 
is there any way to grind the oil drain plug off? I have some harbor freight coupons for the holidays, so I'd like to get them soon, much cheaper than a new oil pan, or diying it myself, as that'd be a pain, and as you know, being me with my level of skill, likely to lead to more issues like a sheared bold, etc.
which tools would I need? an angle grinder? some other tool? etc?
 
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Originally Posted By: engineer20
is there any way to grind the oil drain plug off?


Ok now you've really lost it
 
Originally Posted By: Nick1994
Originally Posted By: engineer20
is there any way to grind the oil drain plug off?


Ok now you've really lost it


Is there any way to saw it off or use powertools or any sort of hand tool to get it off. Or any sprays that might save the oil pan and loosen the oil drain plug? The issue is, when you move, it moves, but it won't loosen, it's only moving clockwise/counterclockwise, but it's not moving in or out, just simply spinning around. It wasn't like this when I did the oil sample before the inspection by the incompetent mechanic.
 
I highly doubt the mechanic touched it. You probably over tightened it when you installed it last. Seeing as how you don't know how to remove lug nuts, this is highly likely.

The threads in the pan are stripped.

Time for a new transmission pan and drain plug.
 
You've "doctor-shopped" your car to every mechanic in town and not surprisingly, found some incompetent and crooked ones. This is not how you should choose a mechanic.

Very simple to remove with hand tools(*) -- the problem is that the threads in the pan are almost certainly stripped and unusable. That means a new pan or thread repair kit. So if you did get that plug out, all the oil runs out and you can't use the car without making real repairs.

* grab plug hex with pliers or vise grips, pull straight out on the plug while rotating counterclockwise until the threads catch. It should then unscrew conventionally the rest of the way.
 
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Originally Posted By: engineer20
but now my oil drain plug won't drain, or come off
I have reason to believe one of the mechanics did it on purpose


It-Was-Me-Jim-Carrey-Liar-Liar-300x300.gif


Red locktite.
You deserve nothing less.

And I red loctited all your oil pan bolts while I was at it.

Next week, I'm going to red locktite your oil fill cap, your spark plugs, and your valve cover bolts.

And the moment I find your house, I'm going to red locktite your keyboard.

I love red locktite.
I figured you should learn to love it, too.

The hard way.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
is there any way to grind the oil drain plug off?
which tools would I need?


You need a

Belt_sander_bosch.jpg


and a

34286020-5096-45f6-bd0d-fc79a40b9029.jpg


to undo my handiwork on your car.

BC.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20
if it's asymetrical


You should totally get asymmetrical wheels so that you can just flip the tires around, instead of having to actually rotate the wheels from the left side of the car to the right side.

So much easier.

BC.
 
it's not the trans pan which is black, it's the silver thing behind it, the mechanic told me what it was called, but I forgot what it was called, it was like the trans case or something, and said i had to take the trans in half and then rejoin it, the gasket is damaged or something like that, see toyotanation post so that ppl don't blame me of posting on here really long posts, etc.

ANnyways, did any product in a bottle cause that, as the verdict is somebody used red loctite and that messed up the oil pan and i will most likely need a new oil pan, this one uses rtv not a gasket but if the aftermarket has a gastket can you use it, and what's a good brand for an oil pan? parts stores oil pans, a used one from a junkyard, or the oem and who is the oem? i see the oem for the caliper is aisin.

Also, does getting your key wet or having the remote get wet bad for it? I was washing my car wiht my keys in my pocket (forgot to take them out) and the keys got wet ,but the remote still works, but the water can't be good for the keys, right? Thanks.
 
I was entertained until about page 9...now it's just become a chore to read the wall of words.

This qualifies for the title "The NeverEnding Post".

I'm done.
 
Originally Posted By: engineer20


Also, does getting your key wet or having the remote get wet bad for it? I was washing my car wiht my keys in my pocket (forgot to take them out) and the keys got wet ,but the remote still works, but the water can't be good for the keys, right? Thanks.


You really need to find some vag....although I don't know if you would know how to use it.
 
Sorry e20, but wet keys is the least of your worries. You should just throw them in the river, and forget all about even owning, or driving a car, let alone working on one. Just "Let it go"
 
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