Straight 30 weight Havoline conventional

Manufacturers don't spec a grade however. They may give specifications, licenses or approvals but grades are recommendations.
Thanks for your precision. I think 99% of the people reading this knew what I meant. But thanks for sharing.

Do you think Ford et. al. would honor a warranty claim on a bad engine if an oil other that what was recommend in their manual or other written documents was used? Every manual I have seen has a recommended viscosity grade. Weather it is in a car or piece of ODPE. My point is what they put in writing has some many practical reasons to use. Now maybe a Philadelphia lawyer can put up a good sounding argument to make any point. Good luck.

I am glad the OP had good luck with his Truck.
 
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Thanks for your precision. I think 99% of the people reading this knew what I meant. But thanks for sharing.

Do you think Ford et. al. would honor a warranty claim on a bad eninge if an oil other that what was recommened in their manual or other written documents was used? My point is what they put in writting has some many practical reasons to use. Now maybe a Philadelphia lawyer can put up a good sounding argument. Good luck.
Well I do know that I've never seen an owner's manual nor a warranty book that ties oil grade to the new-car warranty. We had a fairly long thread a while back on this subject and no one was able to post language from their manuals that predicated the warranty on grade.

Because of the stipulations of a CAFE warranty letter (those have been posted here before too) the manufacturer is required to strenuously promote the grade used to obtain fuel economy numbers, and are also required to equally strenuously discourage the use of any other grade. This is not based on any technical reasoning but on CAFE requirements. But even with the dire and threatening language they must publish a grade recommendation is still that, a recommendation. And beyond that a winter rating is even less of a recommendation which is dependent on your expected starting temperature. In climates where it does not get near freezing the viscosity curve for a monograde 30W is not unlike that for a 5W-30. Physics still matters and is relevant here.

Warranties are invalidated by damage. So yes if you pick an oil with an insufficient MOFT or one with a winter rating which is wholly inappropriate for the starting temperature then the warranty will not cover your mistake.
 
The 300 six is probably one of the most durable engines Ford has made. 300K miles is not that unusual for that engine with reasonable care.
Yup, that 4.9L would run on canola oil I think. The spec in this time period was 10W-30 IIRC but always admired how durable and torquey they were for the size and power. Ford went to the 4.2L after, the 49 wouldn't fit in the new body style and was a bit long-in-the-tooth and perhaps couldn't be evolved any further. I know there was an outcry at the time about it's extinction...

P.S. I once changed oil on one of these poor girls whose owner had probably not changed the oil (just added) for 42,000 miles! The old battleship-gray FMC factory filter was still on with rust in the crackling paint. We changed it but notated everything and openly laughed at this fool. Definitely ran a bit better after the change and would probably have been okay after a few quick intervals to clean out the sludge that pittled out of the crankcase......
 
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What is the rational for the OP deciding to go against the manufacturers specs? I would like to give him a fair chance at explaining himself better.
My Dad was a firm believer in Havoline so, I followed in his footsteps back then.
He ran it in all his vehicles in the 50's and 60's and he swore by it.
So, as many, many guys have done, they followed their Dad's advice.
Later in yrs I began reading and learning more about oil and made different decisions as the engines advanced and the new oils they required.
That's the best and, only explanation I have.
 
My Dad was a firm believer in Havoline so, I followed in his footsteps back then.
He ran it in all his vehicles in the 50's and 60's and he swore by it.
So, as many, many guys have done, they followed their Dad's advice.
Later in yrs I began reading and learning more about oil and made different decisions as the engines advanced and the new oils they required.
That's the best and, only explanation I have.
You kinda did answer it earlier when you said you stayed with what you first used and did not think much about it. It was the honest answer which is all you can ask for. I was more interested in why you wanted to use a singe viscosity vs. a multi. Not so much curious about the brand. I have not seen Havoline in a long time where I live. I do not even see any Texaco gas stations around here either. Good to know it is still out there. Just do not see it at the stores I frequent.
 
My Dad was a firm believer in Havoline so, I followed in his footsteps back then.
He ran it in all his vehicles in the 50's and 60's and he swore by it.
So, as many, many guys have done, they followed their Dad's advice.
Later in yrs I began reading and learning more about oil and made different decisions as the engines advanced and the new oils they required.
That's the best and, only explanation I have.


Chevron makes and has also made very good oils.

Havoline is still a really good oil that can be found for reasonable prices.
Chevron Supreme is another very good oil that can be found at cheaper prices too.
 
Warranties are invalidated by damage. So yes if you pick an oil with an insufficient MOFT or one with a winter rating which is wholly inappropriate for the starting temperature then the warranty will not cover your mistake.


I thought the winter ratings usually say “down to” XX degrees?

It should be fine to run a 0W in 90 degree heat. I’ve done it in plus 100 degrees.
 
My Dad was a firm believer in Havoline so, I followed in his footsteps back then.
He ran it in all his vehicles in the 50's and 60's and he swore by it.
So, as many, many guys have done, they followed their Dad's advice.
Later in yrs I began reading and learning more about oil and made different decisions as the engines advanced and the new oils they required.
That's the best and, only explanation I have.


My Dad used only Havoline in his vehicles. Back then it was made by Texaco. I started to use it in mine early on but the disappearance of Texaco also meant the same for Havoline in the 90’s in my area so I went with Mobil 1.

Chevron Havoline is a great product but it doesn’t get the advertising or shelf space like the others for some reason.
 
IMHO, the Ford straight six engine is the best engine Ford has ever built. No need to tell its history, it very well speaks for itself!
Again, IMHO, the 4.6 is their second best engine ever built.
The 4.6 took the abuse of LEO pushing it to its limits at high speeds, idling constantly, etc. Then when LEO was done abusing it taxi companies used them for 1K's of miles on top of all that.
And, IMO, the small block Chevy engine is the BEST engine EVER built!
I say that because l have built/raced so many of them and l have Chevy Orange running through my veins.
😁
 
My Dad was a firm believer in Havoline so, I followed in his footsteps back then.
He ran it in all his vehicles in the 50's and 60's and he swore by it.
So, as many, many guys have done, they followed their Dad's advice.
Later in yrs I began reading and learning more about oil and made different decisions as the engines advanced and the new oils they required.
That's the best and, only explanation I have.
Did you ever put together that list of Amsoil bashers you keep mentioning? You know, the ones you want to take on and stand up against.
 
IMHO, the Ford straight six engine is the best engine Ford has ever built. No need to tell its history, it very well speaks for itself!
Again, IMHO, the 4.6 is their second best engine ever built.
The 4.6 took the abuse of LEO pushing it to its limits at high speeds, idling constantly, etc. Then when LEO was done abusing it taxi companies used them for 1K's of miles on top of all that.
And, IMO, the small block Chevy engine is the BEST engine EVER built!
I say that because l have built/raced so many of them and l have Chevy Orange running through my veins.
😁
While my dream car is a 68 Chevelle I would not say that the SBC is the best engine ever built. Mine sure we're not. They ate cams and cracked heads on a regular basis. The valve covers always leaked and the q-jet carbs were finicky.

The 302 I put in my 69 Chevelle made it a fun car when it ran.
 
Havoline was the go to oil around this site about 15 years ago. It has a nice chunk of moly.

I have used it. I have also used sae30 in my Jeep. It runs fine. I wouldn't put it in our fjcruiser with it's miles of timing chains that need oil pressure now not later.
 
While my dream car is a 68 Chevelle I would not say that the SBC is the best engine ever built. Mine sure we're not. They ate cams and cracked heads on a regular basis. The valve covers always leaked and the q-jet carbs were finicky.

The 302 I put in my 69 Chevelle made it a fun car when it ran.
Opinions vary (about all the problems you specified). ;)
The 302 was the only SBC engine I could never get my hands on. But I built my own from a 327 block and 283 crank I had in my garage. I didn't have an original to compare it to, so...............
 
Opinions vary (about all the problems you specified). ;)
The 302 was the only SBC engine I could never get my hands on. But I built my own from a 327 block and 283 crank I had in my garage. I didn't have an original to compare it to, so...............
I bought a 75 Impala..paid $100 for it because it had the double hump heads. Seller said it was a 327 someone had put in it.

When I tore into it I found it to be a 1967 ,302. A real 302 but not a DZ code as those were 68-69 only. The code for the 67 was MP.

I rebuilt it but went with a hydraulic cam and at the time a 2 bbl. Put it in my 69 Chevelle. Car still ran a 14.47 with a 3 on the tree and 3.08 gears.
 
I bought a 75 Impala..paid $100 for it because it had the double hump heads. Seller said it was a 327 someone had put in it.

When I tore into it I found it to be a 1967 ,302. A real 302 but not a DZ code as those were 68-69 only. The code for the 67 was MP.

I rebuilt it but went with a hydraulic cam and at the time a 2 bbl. Put it in my 69 Chevelle. Car still ran a 14.47 with a 3 on the tree and 3.08 gears.
I bought a '72 Biscayne for the drivetrain. 400 small block, Turbo 400, 10 bolt open diff. 3:08 gears. $200 ;)
 
Ford dropped the 4.9L engine in 1997 because they could no longer make it pass emissions. I believe it's still used in industrial engines, though. I love mine!
Yup, they were used in gensets, irrigation pumps and all manner of industrial applications. They were even used in sidewalk snow plows, I believe a member here has one.
 
While my dream car is a 68 Chevelle I would not say that the SBC is the best engine ever built. Mine sure we're not. They ate cams and cracked heads on a regular basis. The valve covers always leaked and the q-jet carbs were finicky.

The 302 I put in my 69 Chevelle made it a fun car when it ran.
Having worked on both, I greatly prefer the SBF over the SBC. No siamesed runners, distributor on the front where you can actually get to it, no issues with camshafts and EEC-IV was one of the best fuel injection setups available, even with the potential issues with the TFI module. Mind you, the block was the weak link in getting crazy HP levels, had to step up to a Dart or similar if you wanted to get much beyond 550WHP.
 
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