OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
The tick was usually the air injection plumbing leaking because it readily rotted off the exhaust manifold.
Straight 30 weight Havoline conventional
- Thread starter Triple3 in Mo.
- Start date
Interesting developments... Are you talking about a "smog" pump? I know they were terrible at the plumbing rotting so we're probably talking about the same thing. There was a metal hose that routed air or re-burned air to the exhaust.
You're probably right & I didn't think about an exhaust leak being the culprit.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Yup. Mine always ticked and I tracked it down to being the air injection ports on the top of the exhaust manifold. Then, the catalytic converter plugged solid and the ticking was NUTS! I deleted the cat and the ticking disappeared, it also was like a totally different vehicle, lol, woke it right up!
Mine has had a steady diet of either 10w-40 Quaker State or havoline its whole life. Not sure how you decided on straight 30w to start with as it’s not what ford recommended, but I’m not shocked it worked fine
Mine ticked as well, Ford dealer couldn't find it either, did something to the exhaust and flipped something around so they said. I even replaced the exhaust manifold gasket and was still doing it, I always thought it was the air pipe.
My truck even had this howling/groaning sound once you got over 65 mph, they couldn't figure that one either but under that speed you'd never notice it. It had the Mazda 5 speed, I wondered if that was it.
My truck even had this howling/groaning sound once you got over 65 mph, they couldn't figure that one either but under that speed you'd never notice it. It had the Mazda 5 speed, I wondered if that was it.
OVERKILL
$100 Site Donor 2021
Mine was in an F-250, so it was backed by a C6. With 4.11's in the pot, it was singing pretty good on the highway and since the old tractor engine pretty much ran out of steam at 4K, you weren't doing any high speed passes, that's for sure, lol.
I would rock a quality conventional sae30 if I was running a chump car race or if someone wanted to use lucas oil stabilizer I would recommend this 30wt.
What? The grade is irrelevant as long as it’s appropriate for the expected starting temperature. It’s about the license or specification.
Mine felt like it was under you in the drive line or maybe the rear end, didn't have a tach so don't really know the rpms but it had 3.55 gears.
It was an awesome truck and posted pictures of it before on here in another thread, I would've most likely kept it if it wasn't for the rust issues underneath. I'd definitely love to have another 300 even with it's shortcomings.
My dad's 83 did kill it once, I don't remember the whole story but it was either the fuel pump or the carb but it dumped too much gas in the motor and it ended up throwing a rod out the block. They replaced it with basically a junkyard motor but then reworked a bit but it didn't last long either, it also had the 3 speed column and the 2nd transmission didn't last long either, another junkyard unit and was cast iron, the original was aluminum and I think they found another one to replace it with.
If I would've kept mine it would have the zf transmission by now. There was an older fellow that worked in our shop that had 92-96 F150 2wd w/300 but it came with the zf from Ford. I never knew the 1/2 tons even had that as an option but he said it came from factory that way.
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- May 16, 2021
- Messages
- 315
Yes. Most of the miles were highway miles driving to work and back. A 90 mile round trip.
But, there was a lot of gravel road driving also here in Southern Missouri. Was used as my hunting rig and anything I needed it for.
A 300 will run forever on just about any half decent 30 or 40 grade oil changed regularly, very robust design with a low specific output = long life.
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
I don't think there's much quantifiable difference in motor oils since maybe the 1980's. But Havoline has always had a great rep and once was a darling here. I believe a study in the 90's once put conventional Havoline pretty close to Mobil 1 in wear control and fuel economy. But mainly I miss when Rite Aides use to sell it here and would have a $5 for five qt. bottles special in maybe the early 2000's. Texaco pulled out of this part of NY a long time ago and the Havoline seemed to follow off the shelves of RA and other retail places but Advance Auto does carry it now...
My Dad still uses his 1984 F150 with a 300-6 in it on the farm. Truck has over 250,000 miles on it and has been used like a truck its whole life. Taught my daughter how drive a stick, 4spd/OD, a couple of summers ago. Dad uses it around the “neighborhood“ and to make a beer run occasionally. Used M1 in it from the first oil change. It doesn’t use enough oil to add to it between changes and the oil barely turns color.
As far as 30W Havoline, I never used it but did use Havoline in my 1986 Monte Carlo SS for 3 years. I used it because Davey Allison was sponsored by them way back when and I was young. changed oil every 3000 miles. As hard as I beat that car I should have changed oil every 1,000 miles lol!
As far as 30W Havoline, I never used it but did use Havoline in my 1986 Monte Carlo SS for 3 years. I used it because Davey Allison was sponsored by them way back when and I was young. changed oil every 3000 miles. As hard as I beat that car I should have changed oil every 1,000 miles lol!
All my air cooled motors get 30 weight oil including my air cooled VW beetle. I change it at 2000 miles since that is usually 2 years.