Does anyone else run a straight 30 weight for summer driving. Maybe this is really old school, but during the summer months, I like to run a straight weight as I was taught multi-weights tend to "sheer out." Obviously, living in Florida, the weather is always hot (96 degrees yesterday afternoon) so "cold" start-up is not a problem. Am I alone and outdated in this thinking or is there someone else here in bitog land that thinks the same thing?
Straight 30 weight during summer
- Thread starter GreeCguy
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If I bought some very cheap, for sure I would use it.
Pretty much outdated thinking.
Your vehicle will run at the temp the thermostat is set for. Even on hot hot days.
Oil has come a long way in the last 25 years.
Even the air cooled lawn mower engines which run hotter in hotter weather, use 10W30 these days.
Your vehicle will run at the temp the thermostat is set for. Even on hot hot days.
Oil has come a long way in the last 25 years.
Even the air cooled lawn mower engines which run hotter in hotter weather, use 10W30 these days.
Oil has came a long way, engines have came a long way and the more they change, the more it stays the same. 30 wt wont hurt a thing. Make sure it has the newest SM or SN rating. There are some sub-par 30 wts out there, why they sell, I do not know, but they have the old SA or SB ratings. These oils are no good. But I am sure you will have people on here that think you should get imprisoned for not following your owner manual.
I would use it. I know that when I run multi-vis in my riding mower I have to add oil all the time. With straight 30 I rarely have to add any.
Can one buy a straight 30 which is as good as the synthetic multigrades? Even IF it's 90 degrees out there is still a small but finite amount of startup wear to consider. It would have to be a whole lot more than 90 degrees out for a 30 to be at operating viscosity at startup and the extra benefit of a fast pumping oil at start should neve be discounted. Unless somebody is making a synthetic 30 which is no thicker than 30 at 90 degrees and doesn't thin out at the 200 or so normal operating temp I can't see using it, especially when the "good" quality straiht weight oils I have seen on retail shelves are "racing" oils which don't have the additive packs you STILL need even in 90 degree weather
I wouldn't touch a single-grade oil these days, UNLESS it was a high-performance blend that I know actually performs as well or better than a multi-grade, OR was an HDEO for an old-design engine.
Today's synthetic multi-grades are far, FAR more shear-stable than most single-grade oils of years past. For all but very specific applications, single-grades are dead technology.
Today's synthetic multi-grades are far, FAR more shear-stable than most single-grade oils of years past. For all but very specific applications, single-grades are dead technology.
My jeep runs fine on sae30. Kinda disapointed that I didn't get a uoa with it though. I'm going to try it in my quad to see if it helps it to shift better.
Originally Posted By: HerrStig
Can one buy a straight 30 which is as good as the synthetic multigrades? Even IF it's 90 degrees out there is still a small but finite amount of startup wear to consider. It would have to be a whole lot more than 90 degrees out for a 30 to be at operating viscosity at startup and the extra benefit of a fast pumping oil at start should neve be discounted. Unless somebody is making a synthetic 30 which is no thicker than 30 at 90 degrees and doesn't thin out at the 200 or so normal operating temp I can't see using it, especially when the "good" quality straiht weight oils I have seen on retail shelves are "racing" oils which don't have the additive packs you STILL need even in 90 degree weather
amsoil 30W synthetic is good stuff, and api SL rated
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/diesel/synthetic-sae-10w-30-sae-30-heavy-duty-motor-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2facd.aspx
Can one buy a straight 30 which is as good as the synthetic multigrades? Even IF it's 90 degrees out there is still a small but finite amount of startup wear to consider. It would have to be a whole lot more than 90 degrees out for a 30 to be at operating viscosity at startup and the extra benefit of a fast pumping oil at start should neve be discounted. Unless somebody is making a synthetic 30 which is no thicker than 30 at 90 degrees and doesn't thin out at the 200 or so normal operating temp I can't see using it, especially when the "good" quality straiht weight oils I have seen on retail shelves are "racing" oils which don't have the additive packs you STILL need even in 90 degree weather
amsoil 30W synthetic is good stuff, and api SL rated
http://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/motor-oil/diesel/synthetic-sae-10w-30-sae-30-heavy-duty-motor-oil/?page=%2fstorefront%2facd.aspx
Yes, that is outdated thinking. Modern oils are great stuff!
I'm still a bit fuzzy on the whole "why would you do this" thing, other than to create chatter on an oil board. Seriously, why? Why start your engine with any oil that is thicker than necessary?
If I cut my OC interval to 12 miles and I use a pan heater even in the summer and I mix a bottle of Stoli vodka with it and I cut my starter voltage down to 6 volts, can I use whale oil in my car if I hunt the whales myself?
If I cut my OC interval to 12 miles and I use a pan heater even in the summer and I mix a bottle of Stoli vodka with it and I cut my starter voltage down to 6 volts, can I use whale oil in my car if I hunt the whales myself?
And it's "shear", not sheer. Drapes and hosiery are sheer.
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Does anyone else run a straight 30 weight for summer driving. Maybe this is really old school, but during the summer months, I like to run a straight weight as I was taught multi-weights tend to "sheer out." Obviously, living in Florida, the weather is always hot (96 degrees yesterday afternoon) so "cold" start-up is not a problem. Am I alone and outdated in this thinking or is there someone else here in bitog land that thinks the same thing?
Originally Posted By: GreeCguy
Does anyone else run a straight 30 weight for summer driving. Maybe this is really old school, but during the summer months, I like to run a straight weight as I was taught multi-weights tend to "sheer out." Obviously, living in Florida, the weather is always hot (96 degrees yesterday afternoon) so "cold" start-up is not a problem. Am I alone and outdated in this thinking or is there someone else here in bitog land that thinks the same thing?
This is meaningless.
Originally Posted By: 63Marauder
I would use it. I know that when I run multi-vis in my riding mower I have to add oil all the time. With straight 30 I rarely have to add any.
Originally Posted By: 63Marauder
I would use it. I know that when I run multi-vis in my riding mower I have to add oil all the time. With straight 30 I rarely have to add any.
Modern multi visc 30's are very good, however there are still applications for a shear stable HD straight weight. Perhaps not so much in auto applications, but there is nothing wrong with running a modern SAE30 in summer, especially if you get a good deal on it. I still use my Delo SAE30 (which is more like a 15W30) and the UOA's on my trail beaten Jeep are awesome.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
This is meaningless.
Originally Posted By: 63Marauder
I would use it. I know that when I run multi-vis in my riding mower I have to add oil all the time. With straight 30 I rarely have to add any.
There is no need for foolish posts. If he burns oil with a 10W30 and SAE30 solves the issue, then how is that meaningless? How about you stop acting like a jerk.
Originally Posted By: kschachn
This is meaningless.
Originally Posted By: 63Marauder
I would use it. I know that when I run multi-vis in my riding mower I have to add oil all the time. With straight 30 I rarely have to add any.
There is no need for foolish posts. If he burns oil with a 10W30 and SAE30 solves the issue, then how is that meaningless? How about you stop acting like a jerk.
Yeah...what he said naaaah
Modern multigrades are great, they have come a long way but they are still not immune to viscosity breakdown, temporary or permanent. In that same vein, monogrades have advanced equally. Better, cleaner base oils, inherently higher VI, common additive packages and some 'synthetic' non-VMed monogrades actually perform at multigrade levels.
With that, one more vote for 'run it'
Originally Posted By: kschachn
This is meaningless.
Originally Posted By: 63Marauder
I would use it. I know that when I run multi-vis in my riding mower I have to add oil all the time. With straight 30 I rarely have to add any.
Why?
With that, one more vote for 'run it'
Originally Posted By: kschachn
This is meaningless.
Originally Posted By: 63Marauder
I would use it. I know that when I run multi-vis in my riding mower I have to add oil all the time. With straight 30 I rarely have to add any.
Why?
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Originally Posted By: jrustles
Modern multigrades are great, they have come a long way but they are still not immune to viscosity breakdown, temporary or permanent. In that same vein, monogrades have advanced equally. Better, cleaner base oils, inherently higher VI, common additive packages and some 'synthetic' non-VMed monogrades actually perform at multigrade levels.
With that, one more vote for 'run it'
Originally Posted By: kschachn
This is meaningless.
Originally Posted By: 63Marauder
I would use it. I know that when I run multi-vis in my riding mower I have to add oil all the time. With straight 30 I rarely have to add any.
Why?
Exactly. With modern synthetic base stocks it is not only possible, but regularly done to formulate an oil with no VII's. AMSOIL has a number of these products, Redline's 5w-30 is another example....etc. These oils don't have any polymer in them to shear down, so using a true straight weight* over them for any reason other than cost doesn't really make sense, as it won't be any more shear stable.
*I'm making the assumption that we are discussion a legitimate SAE 30 or the like, blended without base stocks that would allow it to perform as a multigrade for the sake of discussion here.
Modern multigrades are great, they have come a long way but they are still not immune to viscosity breakdown, temporary or permanent. In that same vein, monogrades have advanced equally. Better, cleaner base oils, inherently higher VI, common additive packages and some 'synthetic' non-VMed monogrades actually perform at multigrade levels.
With that, one more vote for 'run it'
Originally Posted By: kschachn
This is meaningless.
Originally Posted By: 63Marauder
I would use it. I know that when I run multi-vis in my riding mower I have to add oil all the time. With straight 30 I rarely have to add any.
Why?
Exactly. With modern synthetic base stocks it is not only possible, but regularly done to formulate an oil with no VII's. AMSOIL has a number of these products, Redline's 5w-30 is another example....etc. These oils don't have any polymer in them to shear down, so using a true straight weight* over them for any reason other than cost doesn't really make sense, as it won't be any more shear stable.
*I'm making the assumption that we are discussion a legitimate SAE 30 or the like, blended without base stocks that would allow it to perform as a multigrade for the sake of discussion here.
Originally Posted By: rcbc96
If your car is a 2004 & newer.......NO WAY would I use a straight grade.
Why is that?
If your car is a 2004 & newer.......NO WAY would I use a straight grade.
Why is that?
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