Oil for air compressor and snow blower use 5w-30 or is there a 0w-30 option?

0w40 for everything year round.

As for the pump, I would think the 20 weight would be fine if that’s what it called for. Units similar to these sit on the sides of service trucks and are used year round.

Meanwhile, my compressor says not to operate below 32*F. 😵‍💫
 
Because the AFE series from Mobil 1 is known to shear down fairly quickly in use. Not good especially with the elevated temps the oil will see in an air-cooled engine. Same reason none of the older Harleys call for anything less than a 50 grade. The oil is pretty darn thin when it his 280*F in use!
You're probably right about that, but he was talking temps in the single digits - if he's running an air cooled engine in anywhere near those temps, the oil won't be getting hot at all. In fact a 20 grade would be fine since oil temps probably would get much over 120 degrees... maybe less?
 
You're probably right about that, but he was talking temps in the single digits - if he's running an air cooled engine in anywhere near those temps, the oil won't be getting hot at all. In fact a 20 grade would be fine since oil temps probably would get much over 120 degrees... maybe less?
Remember that sump oil temp is not representative of the oil temperature/pressure at the main & rod bearings. This is where all the work gets done, and there is only a very tiny volume of oil at those locations at any given time.

Yes, at single digit temps, even an air-cooled engine will experience a faster rate of heat transfer due to the higher temperature differential, but that doesn’t necessarily mean there will be a huge difference in operational temps of the oil.

In my current opinion and with confirmation of David Ward, the best plan is to choose an appropriate winter rating for the coldest temperatures the equipment will start at, and the appropriate grade of oil for the hottest temperatures the equipment will see. On Dave’s recommendation, I moved my generator & pressure washer to the CK-4 5w40 cold climate oil, and I never have to worry about if it’s too hot or too cold, nor if the oil will have plenty of MOFT to protect the engine under any operating circumstance. 👍🏻
 
Remember that sump oil temp is not representative of the oil temperature/pressure at the main & rod bearings. This is where all the work gets done, and there is only a very tiny volume of oil at those locations at any given time.

Yes, at single digit temps, even an air-cooled engine will experience a faster rate of heat transfer due to the higher temperature differential, but that doesn’t necessarily mean there will be a huge difference in operational temps of the oil.

In my current opinion and with confirmation of David Ward, the best plan is to choose an appropriate winter rating for the coldest temperatures the equipment will start at, and the appropriate grade of oil for the hottest temperatures the equipment will see. On Dave’s recommendation, I moved my generator & pressure washer to the CK-4 5w40 cold climate oil, and I never have to worry about if it’s too hot or too cold, nor if the oil will have plenty of MOFT to protect the engine under any operating circumstance. 👍🏻
You're right that bearings see higher temps, but I think that we disagree on whether low ambient temps have a large effect on oil temps. There's been several members who have noted that even after extended running, they can put their hands on the case and they noted that it was barely warm to the touch. IIRC, there was one poster who had a twin Honda that he needed to run in the winter and he was only getting 60 degree oil temps - he had to basically block off the air inlet with a kit to get temps up. That to me says that while higher, bearing temps won't be so high as to even be an issue. I've also seen several ambient temp/rec oil grade charts dating back to the 60's recommend 20 grades for low ambient temps.

But this is Oil Pan 4 we're talking about... He runs stuff on the bleeding edge of power and tune, so there's little doubt that he'll get that oil good and warm :ROFLMAO:
 
0-40w will suffice. My snowblowers oils do not get hot enough to fully ''cook out'' condensation in winter. Always see it on the long Tecumseh dipstick and cap. You may not see it on a short base mounted dipstick. Thats why they get put up for summer with fresh oil. And get run until hot before the change.
 
0w40 for everything year round.

As for the pump, I would think the 20 weight would be fine if that’s what it called for. Units similar to these sit on the sides of service trucks and are used year round.

Meanwhile, my compressor says not to operate below 32*F. 😵‍💫
I don't remember how cold it was but a few years ago, I ran the big air compressor outside on a 20 to 25f day and the sand blaster kept freezing up. I don't know what oil I had in it, probably 15w-40 and I couldn't get it to start, even with the compressor belt off, had to bring it inside for a bit to let it warm up.
 
You're right that bearings see higher temps, but I think that we disagree on whether low ambient temps have a large effect on oil temps. There's been several members who have noted that even after extended running, they can put their hands on the case and they noted that it was barely warm to the touch. IIRC, there was one poster who had a twin Honda that he needed to run in the winter and he was only getting 60 degree oil temps - he had to basically block off the air inlet with a kit to get temps up. That to me says that while higher, bearing temps won't be so high as to even be an issue. I've also seen several ambient temp/rec oil grade charts dating back to the 60's recommend 20 grades for low ambient temps.

But this is Oil Pan 4 we're talking about... He runs stuff on the bleeding edge of power and tune, so there's little doubt that he'll get that oil good and warm :ROFLMAO:
The ride on 540cc 19hp mower has the correct jet for "4,000 to 6,000ft elevation" and I'm at 4,400.
My gx200 powered air compressor has been timing advanced 8 degrees I believe and rejetted.
The best way I have found to tune small engines is go smaller on the jets till they need 10 to 30 seconds of choke on start up or else they try to die. Alternative method is tune them on e10 go with smaller and smaller till they spudder under heavy load at full speed, then switch to ethanol free. If it wants to die or does die under heavy load with e10 go bigger.
The 79cc engine I haven't tried sourcing jets for it yet. It could definitely go smaller it's a bit rich but not cylinder glazing and eyes burning from 50ft away rich like that Honda gx200 when I got it.
 
I don't remember how cold it was but a few years ago, I ran the big air compressor outside on a 20 to 25f day and the sand blaster kept freezing up. I don't know what oil I had in it, probably 15w-40 and I couldn't get it to start, even with the compressor belt off, had to bring it inside for a bit to let it warm up.
I run my log splitter year round. I get it.

I wish I had a way to disengage the engine from the pump for extreme cold starts.
 
I run my log splitter year round. I get it.

I wish I had a way to disengage the engine from the pump for extreme cold starts.
I should have said snowblower, air compressor and log splitter. I have 5w-30 in the log splitter engine and iso46 in the hydros and it I remember it starting fine near freezing. If I have to start the log splitter when it's colder than 20f then I messed up big-time.
 
0w40 for everything year round.

As for the pump, I would think the 20 weight would be fine if that’s what it called for. Units similar to these sit on the sides of service trucks and are used year round.

Meanwhile, my compressor says not to operate below 32*F. 😵‍💫
+1

A Euro 0w40 or 5w40 would work great year round for most applications, and is easy to find.
 
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