start up problem 1991 civic LX

[schuylkill]

So my son's LX sedan 1.5 has been having this problem for about 2 weeks. It starts fine the first time when it is dead cold and runs fine. Last weekend I moved it to swap the front snows which I had mounted incorrectly and it started fine. Fifteen minutes later it fired up and then stalled. It took 3 tries to get it going again, and I pumped the pedal on the third crank. It seemed to run fine once it was started. My son just called and said it happened again today. It started fine, he drove 10 miles into town and then it was problematic getting it going after sitting a little while. This has occurred maybe 5 or 6 times now.

I know the voltage output is borderline low when it is running, 13.8 volts I think it was last time I checked it with a meter. I charged the battery with a smart charger and it charged and went into maintenance mode. I re-soldered the connections on the relay last summer, but I didn't do the best job I'm sure.

Any suggestions on where to look first-second?

 

[NHGUY]

Idle air motor? Pushing the gas pedal down feeds it more air than the IAC motor is allowing???

 

[Tegger]

Sounds like the classic Main Relay problem. I'd check the solder joints again.

Next time the engine cranks but won't start, do this:
1) Reach under the dash and put your hand on the Main Relay. Leave it there.
2) Insert the ignition key and turn it to "II". The Check Engine light will come on, and you should FEEL a click.
3) 2 seconds later, the Check Engine light should go off, and you should FEEL another click.
4) Turn the key to "III". The instant the starter kicks in, you should FEEL a third click.

So what do you observe? Any clicks missing? Does the Check Engine light go on for 2 seconds then go off and stay off thereafter? Does it stay on all the time, or re-illuminate at some point? All of these things are important diagnostics tools.

 

[GSCJR]

Sounds like your typical Honda distributor assmebly packing it in to me. What Tegger said too.

 

[bullwinkle]

Had a similar problem on my '90 Civic wagon years ago, ended up being a bad fuel pump.

 

[schuylkill]

My son just reported that the car was hard to start today when it was dead cold. He also said that the other day it cut out on him while he was driving and slowing to a stop and then came back to idle. I'm getting tired of working on this car. It's too cold now to do much of anything on it, maybe this weekend. Brody's not too handy with cars yet.

 

[Tegger]

Originally Posted By: schuylkill
My son just reported that the car was hard to start today when it was dead cold. He also said that the other day it cut out on him while he was driving and slowing to a stop and then came back to idle. I'm getting tired of working on this car. It's too cold now to do much of anything on it, maybe this weekend. Brody's not too handy with cars yet.

Did you bother to read my message earlier?

 

[schuylkill]

Quote:
Did you bother to read my message earlier?


Yes I did, thank you, just putting out some more data. I worked 11 hours today plus 4 hours commute time so I didn't do anything with the car today, let my son read your post but he's not the handiest with cars.

 

[LimitedSlip]

I had these symptoms with my 92 Accord LX. It was a cracked solder joint on a relay. Fuel pump as I recall but it could have been the main relay. IT was located under the dash on the driver's side left.

 

[artificialist]

When was the fuel filter replaced? I remember working with an Accord that needed a new fuel filter. The engine would stall at random times.

 

[user52165]

Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Sounds like your typical Honda distributor assmebly packing it in to me. What Tegger said too.

Actually, Honda distributors rarely fail. But the cap and rotor are very common problem items on older cars that are easily replaced and are regular maintenance items. Cheap protection from stopping you instantly or no start.

 

[GSCJR]

Originally Posted By: user52165
Originally Posted By: GSCJR
Sounds like your typical Honda distributor assmebly packing it in to me. What Tegger said too.

Actually, Honda distributors rarely fail. But the cap and rotor are very common problem items on older cars that are easily replaced and are regular maintenance items. Cheap protection from stopping you instantly or no start.


Not where I'm from..ignitor (igniter), coil or actual bearing failures were common in these distributors. Not too many around now.

 

[schuylkill]

I've replaced the igniter and coil in this dizzy and recently the cap and rotor so hopefully all is good with that. Problem hasn't occurred recently now that I have time to look into it (of course). If I'm going to keep the car for awhile, I might get one of these distributors, the components are all either Japanese or Taiwanese and I've had good luck with other components I've purchased from this seller on ebay. I know some folks only get Honda parts but I haven't found that to be necessary if you get quality Japanese components. Partsgeek.com is another good source for Japanese components.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/400210068060?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

 

[Vikas]

The older Honda distributors did not even have a bearing in it but just a brass bushing which would develop enough play to affect ignition after 100K or so miles.

 

[GSCJR]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
The older Honda distributors did not even have a bearing in it but just a brass bushing which would develop enough play to affect ignition after 100K or so miles.


You're probably right, I have never taken a close look at what allows the distributor shaft to actually spin however, the shaft would become difficult to rotate when worn. (bushing or bearing)

Typically replaced the entire assembly with an aftermarket or pre-owned when that would occur.

Hopefully it's good now!

 

[schuylkill]

Just as an update, the problem stopped when I installed new plug wires. I hadn't replaced them as a maintenance item so it wasn't a waste of money I reasoned whether they cured the problem or not.