Thanks. I'll have to find some diagrams and check it out. Is there a way to see if electricity is running through each ground by using a multimeter?
Truck won't stay started (suspected alternator)
- Thread starter thejon
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- Dec 6, 2024
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Have to know ac from dc…..don’t take the terminal off…after changing the battery? Get a battery and alternator. Call us back.
Blocked exhaust system would do those symptoms
Oh, I didn't think of that. What could I do to test this?
Keep in mind that a bad battery can unalive an alternator. It would be best to have the alternator checked or just replace it if it's old.
You would have to open/disconnect the exhaust pipe pre the blockage
By taking out the oxygen sensor.
Ok, I tried having the battery charger going while idling. I put some fresh gas in it. Exhaust doesn't seem clogged (started it on a cold day and saw normal condensation coming from the Tail pipe). Nothing helped. Gas light is on although I know there's at least a quarter tank... One time the gas gauge showed over a quarter tank and the other time I tried to keep it running, the gauge was on E... Not sure what that means. IDK what's going on...
The fuel is probably too old as a member suggested
Wow this thread started Nov 18th. I cannot contribute much to what has already been stated but I hope you can get it diagnosed soon!
Honestly, and I really do not mean any disrespect at all to the OP, but if the most basic task of charging a battery, and checking the positive and ground connections on it are this much of an issue that the OP still hasn't been able to properly accomplish in over a month and a half, even considering sudden life issues that may crop up and take away your focus, I believe that this job is way outside of the OP's abilities, and the truck should be handed to a professional, or at least a nearby friend who actually has moderate DIY skills.
You should probably not touch the fuel system at all, or any components that connect to the PCM.
Leave the MAP/MAF sensors for someone who knows how to test them, otherwise you're going to wind up flushing a whole bunch of good parts down the toilet bowl.
There are so many videos on YouTube that will teach you how to test the positive and ground connections, but I think the OP is out of their element, and should hand the vehicle over to someone else to resolve its issues.
And one last thing - all battery connections must be fully tightened anytime you try to start a vehicle that has electronic computers controlling it. The amount of damage you can cause to the car, truck, or motorcycle because of loose connections can add hundreds, if not thousands, to your eventual repair bill if you start damaging wiring harnesses, sensors or modules.
You should probably not touch the fuel system at all, or any components that connect to the PCM.
Leave the MAP/MAF sensors for someone who knows how to test them, otherwise you're going to wind up flushing a whole bunch of good parts down the toilet bowl.
There are so many videos on YouTube that will teach you how to test the positive and ground connections, but I think the OP is out of their element, and should hand the vehicle over to someone else to resolve its issues.
And one last thing - all battery connections must be fully tightened anytime you try to start a vehicle that has electronic computers controlling it. The amount of damage you can cause to the car, truck, or motorcycle because of loose connections can add hundreds, if not thousands, to your eventual repair bill if you start damaging wiring harnesses, sensors or modules.
No offense taken. I thought I hit all of the suggestions but I missed checking the grounds (I did fully charge the battery). I'll have to look up a video for my specific model truck because I don't know where to start.
It's been over a month because I only have time to mess with it here and there (it's not a daily driver) . But I'll keep trying.
Please listen to Blade cutter, get help from someone who has experience because changing parts without a correct diagnosis will waste time and money.
It's a speed density engine. No MAF. MAP and TPS. Both can be easily checked with a scan tool that reads generic OBD live data.
Had a similar issue on my 1996 Grand Cherokee with the same magnum engine family and it was the TPS. TPS was stuck showing a high throttle position even at idle and it was running so rich it started dying as intake temps started rising because it didn't have enough oxygen. It's would also explain why brake clean has no effect. You're just dumping more fuel when it's already too rich. Malfunctioning TPS also won't throw a CEL if its not a circuit low or high condition. These trucks run fine with or without a functioning alternator. They also run with or without a functioning body control module or cluster. The BMS will shut down the cluster and interior lights if you have a malfunctioning door light switch.
Engine stall and dash lights are two different issues. Assuming they are connected is a red herring.
Simple check is disconnect the TPS. It will run without it.
It's too late to edit my post but I meant BCM not BMS.
This is great info, thanks! I'll check the TPS and ground connections next. So should I just unplug the TPS or remove it completely?
All you have to do is unplug it. It's right on the side of the throttle body. 3 wire.
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