If it has to turn over for more than a second or so before it starts, I question how healthy it is.
so when do you replace a battery
- Thread starter ram_man
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In Miami I can not get anymore then 5 years on a battery..The last time the battery went dead I was in the Hood in the monsoon rain..The battery was checked out 2 weeks earlier and everything checked out normal..In New Jersey I used to get 7 years out of a battery.
I have 3 female drivers...so I don't keep a battery more than 5 years. They run all of the electronics and usually leave lights on and kill them a few times just for good measure. Plus having them get stuck who knows where can be problematic as well.
I have been able to get the gold top batteries on sale for $75 with coupons at AZ and AAP so why tempt fate?
I have been able to get the gold top batteries on sale for $75 with coupons at AZ and AAP so why tempt fate?
Originally Posted By: dwcopple
Originally Posted By: Tdbo
When I have to jump it for no reason of my own.
+1
+2
When the car doesn't start - that's usually a good sign that it might be time.
Originally Posted By: Tdbo
When I have to jump it for no reason of my own.
+1
+2
When the car doesn't start - that's usually a good sign that it might be time.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Flip side of the question is "how often do you replace the alternator?" Do you wait until it dies or just replace it after 200K/15years?
Charging/battery light on the dash usually lets me know - or output voltage test annually.
Flip side of the question is "how often do you replace the alternator?" Do you wait until it dies or just replace it after 200K/15years?
Charging/battery light on the dash usually lets me know - or output voltage test annually.
Running a fleet i have learned that every battery develops its own personality. Some give warning, some don't.
Since ours tend to go at least 4-5 years even at the worst we simply wait till we get stopped by it. Then you jump the vehicle and do not shut it off until you buy another battery!
Since ours tend to go at least 4-5 years even at the worst we simply wait till we get stopped by it. Then you jump the vehicle and do not shut it off until you buy another battery!
At 6 years start pricing a replacement.
Originally Posted By: cjcride
At 6 years start pricing a replacement.
I might start doing something like this. My last two OEM batteries (motorcraft) in two different cars both died with almost exactly the same amount of months on them. I think it was 5 years and 4 months for both.
You can sure save a lot if you buy a battery before you need it when AAP or the likes have some sweet 40% off sale. I think I lucked out when my OEM battery died in the Escape. I went inside and found an AAP code for like 20% off before I went out to get a new battery. Ordered it online, picked it up at store and they installed it for me too. I don't expect to get that lucky every time.
At 6 years start pricing a replacement.
I might start doing something like this. My last two OEM batteries (motorcraft) in two different cars both died with almost exactly the same amount of months on them. I think it was 5 years and 4 months for both.
You can sure save a lot if you buy a battery before you need it when AAP or the likes have some sweet 40% off sale. I think I lucked out when my OEM battery died in the Escape. I went inside and found an AAP code for like 20% off before I went out to get a new battery. Ordered it online, picked it up at store and they installed it for me too. I don't expect to get that lucky every time.
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Well my battery died today stone cold in a parking lot. No long cranks no anything .......
That's what happened with my Nissan last spring, except that I was lucky and it was in my garage. The battery was approximately 4 years old.
Well my battery died today stone cold in a parking lot. No long cranks no anything .......
That's what happened with my Nissan last spring, except that I was lucky and it was in my garage. The battery was approximately 4 years old.
Luckily I had access to a jumper box and a friend in his car. It actually was pretty convenient. Went to the parts, store and battery tested good. Alternator had slightly low voltage. So the alt was in question but it didn't die while running it died again while sitting with lights on for 5 minutes. So used my judgment and was right. Those stupid load testers in experience have been all but useless.
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
My 88 E-150 battery is in since 10/8/00.
Originally Posted By: expat
By Battery dates back to sometime in 2000.
I'll replace it only when I need to.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
When my semi annual load test shows it's time to replace it.
What's your test sequence, if you don't mind?
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I replace it when the starter begins to crank slower. This is gradual, so it sneaks up on you. With time I've developed a pretty good ear for it.
I think I have too, at least as of lately. I originally assumed that the slow starting was the starter or its solenoid, but I now think it may be just the battery.
Originally Posted By: rjundi
My vehicle threw errant check engine lights and other nutty quirks. The root problem an $110 battery.
I never knew a "low" battery could cause this symptom.
Originally Posted By: rjundi
My prior beyound simple 04 WRX and 95 Civic I never changed the battery's in 8 years of ownership each.
The original battery in the kid hauler (see sig block) was first replaced in 2009 -- one month shy of 8 years from vehicle's manufacture date.
My 88 E-150 battery is in since 10/8/00.
Originally Posted By: expat
By Battery dates back to sometime in 2000.
I'll replace it only when I need to.
Originally Posted By: Pop_Rivit
When my semi annual load test shows it's time to replace it.
What's your test sequence, if you don't mind?
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I replace it when the starter begins to crank slower. This is gradual, so it sneaks up on you. With time I've developed a pretty good ear for it.
I think I have too, at least as of lately. I originally assumed that the slow starting was the starter or its solenoid, but I now think it may be just the battery.
Originally Posted By: rjundi
My vehicle threw errant check engine lights and other nutty quirks. The root problem an $110 battery.
I never knew a "low" battery could cause this symptom.
Originally Posted By: rjundi
My prior beyound simple 04 WRX and 95 Civic I never changed the battery's in 8 years of ownership each.
The original battery in the kid hauler (see sig block) was first replaced in 2009 -- one month shy of 8 years from vehicle's manufacture date.
Originally Posted By: CROWNVIC4LIFE
The battery was checked out 2 weeks earlier and everything checked out normal.
Virtually the same thing happened to me: it tested good/normal less about one month earlier on both DIY voltmeter and AAP's gadget.
Originally Posted By: Doog
I have 3 female drivers...so I don't keep a battery more than 5 years.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Flip side of the question is "how often do you replace the alternator?" Do you wait until it dies or just replace it after 200K/15years?
I like this question.
Originally Posted By: badtlc
You can sure save a lot if you buy a battery before you need it when AAP or the likes have some sweet 40% off sale.
My wife's now purchased 2 batteries from them without a coupon. However, the most recent purchase was under warranty -- the prorated kind (as opposed to the free replacement kind). So, the 2nd $118 retail Autocraft Gold to go into the kid hauler cost us $64. Anyone know if she could have applied one of AAP's coupons to this?
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Went to the parts, store and battery tested good...Those stupid load testers in experience have been all but useless.
Anyone know why they're inaccurate? Batteries are truly that complicated and can "fool" the tester? Cheap equipment? Operator error? Other?
The battery was checked out 2 weeks earlier and everything checked out normal.
Virtually the same thing happened to me: it tested good/normal less about one month earlier on both DIY voltmeter and AAP's gadget.
Originally Posted By: Doog
I have 3 female drivers...so I don't keep a battery more than 5 years.
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Flip side of the question is "how often do you replace the alternator?" Do you wait until it dies or just replace it after 200K/15years?
Originally Posted By: badtlc
You can sure save a lot if you buy a battery before you need it when AAP or the likes have some sweet 40% off sale.
Originally Posted By: ram_man
Went to the parts, store and battery tested good...Those stupid load testers in experience have been all but useless.
Anyone know why they're inaccurate? Batteries are truly that complicated and can "fool" the tester? Cheap equipment? Operator error? Other?
The Group 26 in the PT Cruiser? Every 21 to 22 months or so.
I haven't bought a new battery for that car since about 2007. They just go belly up before the 2 year warranty expires.
There's nothing wrong with the charging system. The heat and vibration combined with being a substandard battery to begin with wreak havoc on the lifespan of the battery. The only thing electrical I have added to the PT are Polk GXR speakers. Charge is good even at idle with A/C, lights, stereo, and seat heaters on,
The parts store usually put a capacitive tester on it. It virtually always indicates that it needs charging. So I let them charge it overnight when I can. Come back the next day and the capacitive tester will either fail it or give that same idiot "needs charging" message. I bring my load tester and show them that it does fail under an actual load and get a new battery.
The 40R in the Mazda always outlasts its free replacement period. I have two amps in the 6 and I usually go around 3 years.
I haven't bought a new battery for that car since about 2007. They just go belly up before the 2 year warranty expires.
There's nothing wrong with the charging system. The heat and vibration combined with being a substandard battery to begin with wreak havoc on the lifespan of the battery. The only thing electrical I have added to the PT are Polk GXR speakers. Charge is good even at idle with A/C, lights, stereo, and seat heaters on,
The parts store usually put a capacitive tester on it. It virtually always indicates that it needs charging. So I let them charge it overnight when I can. Come back the next day and the capacitive tester will either fail it or give that same idiot "needs charging" message. I bring my load tester and show them that it does fail under an actual load and get a new battery.
The 40R in the Mazda always outlasts its free replacement period. I have two amps in the 6 and I usually go around 3 years.
4 years.
I'd rather "waste" money on a new battery every 4 years then have a 6 year old battery fail on me
I'd rather "waste" money on a new battery every 4 years then have a 6 year old battery fail on me
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