So many options! '05 4Runner

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Scotty_D

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Howdy! Longtime lurker, (obviously) first time poster.

GF's '05 4Runner SR5 4WD 1GR-FE is due for a 90k oil change.

I've done the last two oil changes on it and UOAs. Castrol GTX 5w30 and NAPA Gold standard size oil filter.

Here's the Blackstone at 70k: http://cl.ly/2H1A3g0K1z31
Here's the Blackstone at 81k: http://cl.ly/1S0M471I0h0U

Now that it's at 90k I'm trying to decide how to proceed. What oil to use for her and what (if) additive to use.
So far I'm leaning towards: Mobil 1 (although NAPA does have a sale on some ENOS), NAPA Gold 1516 (bigger filter) and the Cera Tec

Without further ado:
1. What kind of vehicle you have - '05 4Runner SR5 4WD 1GR-FE 4.0 V6
2. What your owner's manual says - Oil grade: API grade SL “Energy−Conserving” or ILSAC multigrade engine oil
Recommended oil viscosity:
SAE 5W−30
3. Where you live - San Luis Obispo, CA - Fairly moderate climate. One week of mid 20s, one week of 110s
4. How you drive (easy? hard? fast? slow?) - Hard and fast. Not easy on the throttle when it's cold or really at all
5. What your daily drive is like (short trips? long trips? city? highway?) - Fairly mixed. When it's short trips they're short. She doesn't let the engine warm up before turning it off.
6. Whether your car has any known problems - Supposedly the high lead is known. Sounds like the timing chain has some factor in it?


So dear all knowing people, what sayeth you?
 
Have had good results with Mobil 1 5w30 and slightly better results on Pennzoil Platinum 5W-20. You can search my UOAs from the past. I use the next larger size Purolator PureOne that is popular with other 1GR-FE owners. Why use additives?
 
Originally Posted By: OrdnanceMarine
Why use additives?


No idea! That's why I come to you guys. The way people talk about Cera-Tec I would think it's going to cure my step-father's arthritis.
 
Wear shot up huge between 9k and 11k, so i think you should stop at 9k unless you plan to UOA further. Were both of these done with GTX?

I am not really a huge fan of GTX as it seems to have a weaker additive pack but that first UOA was pretty good if it was GTX, the second UOA was starting to get high on iron near 40 ppm.

Have you seen the PQIA synthetic 5w30 round up? They have many conventional oils as well but not listed side by side in a neat format.


http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html

I would probably recommend Pennzoil Gold 5w30 or maybe any API SN synthetic 5w30 that is on sale or your choosing and cap it off at 10k.


As far as additives go, JUST SAY NO! There is probably 1 good additive on the market for every 100 bad ones that can actually hurt your engine. In a normal gasoline engine you only need a high quality oil of the proper specifications and SAE grade.
 
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: 901Memphis
Wear shot up huge between 9k and 11k, so i think you should stop at 9k unless you plan to UOA further. Were both of these done with GTX?

I am not really a huge fan of GTX as it seems to have a weaker additive pack but that first UOA was pretty good if it was GTX, the second UOA was starting to get high on iron near 40 ppm.

Have you seen the PQIA synthetic 5w30 round up? They have many conventional oils as well but not listed side by side in a neat format.


http://pqiamerica.com/March2013PCMO/Marchsyntheticsallfinal.html

I would probably recommend Pennzoil Gold 5w30 or maybe any API SN synthetic 5w30 that is on sale or your choosing and cap it off at 10k.


As far as additives go, JUST SAY NO! There is probably 1 good additive on the market for every 100 bad ones that can actually hurt your engine. In a normal gasoline engine you only need a high quality oil of the proper specifications and SAE grade.


Two people in a row say no to additives. Done.

My only worry is that the first UOA was not actually 10k. I feel like I mis-calculated mileage but of course cannot for the life of me remember (I couldn't remember when I sent the sample in). Better record keeping has been put in place. Truck has done the last 30k (that I know of, maybe more) on Castrol GTX. I agree, after actually doing some research, it wasn't the best choice. Would like to stick to ~10k. Looks like NAPA has PP for $4.39/qt plus a $10 off coupon. Makes it a [censored] good deal.
 
You might want to remove your personal information from those reports...

Back on topic: I had a 2008 Tacoma with the same motor.

PYB 5w30 for 7,500 seemed like a good fit. I see now that you want to hit 10k OCIs. PU is great if you can find it. The PureONE PL20195 was my filter of choice.
 
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The PP is an excellent choice, set it to 7,500 unless you want to UOA it closer to 10k with TBN.

How about the motorcraft FL400S for filter choice if the PL20195 fits it?
 
For a 8-10k mile interval, go with Quaker State Ultimate Durability. It is a high quality synthetic with good results and is not real pricey. Skip the additives.
 
Originally Posted By: Scotty_D

3. Where you live - San Luis Obispo, CA - Fairly moderate climate. One week of mid 20s, one week of 110s


This is completely off topic, but I was born and raised in SLO! My family is still out there. Good to see a fellow Central Coast dweller on the forum. There isn't a day that goes by that I wonder why on earth I moved to Virginia!

Welcome to BITOG!
 
I had a 2006 SR5 that saw nothing but PP 5w30 and Toyota filters. Never had an issue, but with that engine as long as there is oil in it I doubt you will.
 
I have the same truck, but with the V8 and am currently using M1 HM 5w30 with 52K on the clock (might go with M1 0w40 as a permanent oil as its almost a 30).

For dino oil: Pennzoil 5w30 yellow bottle has good marks from what I've read.

For synthetic: PP or M1.

As others have said: no additives.

Filters: I get mine online from discount Toyota dealers. You may find one in your area that does this and you pick them up at the dealer's parts desk (ie: buy online first to get the discount).
 
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
For a 8-10k mile interval, go with Quaker State Ultimate Durability. It is a high quality synthetic with good results and is not real pricey. Skip the additives.


Ok you're the first person to say go with the Quaker. Just curious why?

Originally Posted By: SF0059


This is completely off topic, but I was born and raised in SLO! My family is still out there. Good to see a fellow Central Coast dweller on the forum. There isn't a day that goes by that I wonder why on earth I moved to Virginia!

Welcome to BITOG!


Thanks! Are you a 93401 or 93405 person?
 
Originally Posted By: Scotty_D
Originally Posted By: toneydoc
For a 8-10k mile interval, go with Quaker State Ultimate Durability. It is a high quality synthetic with good results and is not real pricey. Skip the additives.


Ok you're the first person to say go with the Quaker. Just curious why?

Originally Posted By: SF0059


This is completely off topic, but I was born and raised in SLO! My family is still out there. Good to see a fellow Central Coast dweller on the forum. There isn't a day that goes by that I wonder why on earth I moved to Virginia!

Welcome to BITOG!


Thanks! Are you a 93401 or 93405 person?



Quaker State UD is a popular choice around here because its typically the cheapest priced name brand synthetic and has an additive package very similar to Pennzoil Platinum. It's a fine choice and is not comparable at all to the conventional GTX you were running.
 
Originally Posted By: Scotty_D


Thanks! Are you a 93401 or 93405 person?


93401. I still fill that out sometimes when I am filling out my address...
 
Oil is in. NAPA had/has Pennzoil Platinum on sale for $4.39/qt Hard to say no. Also grabbed the bigger NAPA gold filter.
 
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