Sludge formulas/problems

[cfree5119]

2003 Audi A6 3.0L Quattro

I have a sludge problem. Has anyone used BG products? What about Auto-RX? Where can I obtain these formulas?

Anyone have a step by step process of how to clean the oil pan and screen?

Finally, does anyone have thoughts or opinions about removing sludge?

Thank you!

 

[addyguy]

How do you know you have sludge? Have you removed the valve covers or oil pan to verify this?

Not being obnoxious, but the 3.0L Audi V-6 isn't a know sludge engine; so unless it has been horribly abused, it may not be a sludged-up as you think.

You're going to get a LOT of opinions on this. Personally, I'd add 1 quart of MMO to a fill of fresh oil, run it for 1-2k, and then do that again. It might clear up a minor sludge issue.

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: cfree5119
2003 Audi A6 3.0L Quattro

I have a sludge problem. Has anyone used BG products? What about Auto-RX? Where can I obtain these formulas?

Anyone have a step by step process of how to clean the oil pan and screen?

Finally, does anyone have thoughts or opinions about removing sludge?

Thank you!


Some questions for you:

1) Where is the SLUDGE
2) How many miles on the vehicle
3) What are your OCI's ( 3000 mile OCI or 5000 mile OCI )
4) What brand of motor oil are you using
5) Is this a used vehicle or did you buy it brand new
6) What type of driving do you do ( short trip )
7) Have you checked the thermostat and PCV Valve

 

[scudpilot]

I have used a BG machine when my Chevy dealer flushed and refilled my Coolant. I was very happy with the process and have heard that all the BG machines are top quality. I would assume the machine will do a good job, but might cost a lot.
My Coolant flush/fill was $129.00.

 

[[RT] ProjUltraZ]

good questions c3po, in accordance with General Order Six

General Order Six [GO6]
Northern Research Force

1. In view of the common human tendency, when seeking to explain observations, to favor the first speculation that comes to mind, the following procedures will be observed by all ranks:

[a] No speculation by any member of the Services will be reported to higher-ranking personnel unless accompanied by a comparably plausible alternative speculation, or [ii] a detailed procedure for testing the one proferred.

If the said speculation occurs during a general discussion, either formal or informal, then or [ii] may be delayed until after the end of said discussion. Alternative ideas contributed by participants other than the originator of the speculation will be regarded as satisfying 1[a] above.

2. This rule is not intended to discourage speculation, which is recognized as a necessary first step in the development of any body of knowledge, but to help preserve objectivity as far as possible in both private reasoning and public debate.

3. The Commmander of any research unit, whether of observer or theoretician grade, is authorized and advised to use discretion in the detailed enforcement of this regulation.

4. No punishment more serious than reprimand is warranted for violation of this rule.

- Half Life by Hal Clement

 

[demarpaint]

If you have sludge to clean up I have found MMO to be one of the best ways to deal with it, and cheaply. Start off by adding 1 pint for the last 1000 miles of the current OCI. Next OCI fill the sump with your favorite oil less 1 qt, add 1 qt MMO in its place. Be sure to change the filter. Run that for 3000 miles, you should be GTG. Then if you like add a pint of MMO for the last 1000 miles of your next OCI. If you feel you need more cleaning you can do another 3000 mile run with a qt of MMO.

Be sure PCV and Thermostat are in good working order.

 

[c3po]

http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Engine-Sludge-Problem---Dont-Forget-the-Oil-Change&id=970590

It might be a good idea for the OP to find out what is causing his Sludge before we start recommending oil additives to clean up his engine.

It might be wise for the OP if at all possible to pull off his valve cover and make sure the oil return holes in his cylinder heads are not blocked up with sludge.

I provided a link which might be helpful with the OP's Sludge Problem.

 

[Boss302fan]

Not going to hurt to try some MMO.

 

[demarpaint]

Originally Posted By: c3po
http://ezinearticles.com/?The-Engine-Sludge-Problem---Dont-Forget-the-Oil-Change&id=970590

It might be a good idea for the OP to find out what is causing his Sludge before we start recommending oil additives to clean up his engine.

It might be wise for the OP if at all possible to pull off his valve cover and make sure the oil return holes in his cylinder heads are not blocked up with sludge.

I provided a link which might be helpful with the OP's Sludge Problem.


Pulling a valve cover is not easy on many of todays engines. Finding the cause of the sludge is a good idea. Reviewing driving habits, length of trips, making sure the PCV system is clear and working can help.



Originally Posted By: Boss302fan
Not going to hurt to try some MMO.


+1

 

[c3po]

Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Pulling a valve cover is not easy on many of todays engines


If his oil return holes in the cylinder head are clogged then he will need to remove his valve cover. If the oil return holes are clogged I do not think any oil additive is going to clear them up.

I remember one member on here who said his brother in law's oil return holes were so clogged that it took him a long time with various screwdrivers to ream out the holes, the stuff was almost like a rock.

 

[demarpaint]

That would be an extreme condition, my guess is the oil pressure would drop or a low oil warning light would come on if the head/heads were that plugged up. Once the oil gets up top if the engine was that plugged up it would stay there for a very long time, and he'd know it by a light, gauge or sound in the bottom end of the engine. If that is the case he'll need to pull more than valve covers.

Also his engine is not a sludge monster making it a little less likely.

 

[Familyguy]

I'm a bit skeptical. Perhaps the owner has just gotten some suspect advice from a local mechanic. As someone else mentioned, the Audi 3.0/3.2L normally aspirated engines are not known for having any issues with sludge.

That said, if there is sufficient oil pressure, I'd do an abbreviated oil change interval (say 750-1000 miles) with 1qt of Marvel Mystery Oil and the remainder of the sump filled with suitable oil (I like Rotella 5W-40 synthetic these days, but any 5W-40 should suffice).

I believe Audi's recommended oil change intervals on this car/engine were 15,000km (9,375 miles) for the oil and 30,000km (18,750 miles) for the filter.

I also like to stick with Mann or Mahle filters on my Audi/VW vehicles.

Best,

 

[cfree5119]

Thanks for all the information guys. I was driving around town the other day and it took a turn for the worse. Oil pressure went off and would not come back on. Started to hear a knock so I stopped immediately and had it towed to the shop. My oil is like coal and I changed it under 1000 miles ago with a 5w30 Castrol Syntec. The guy I bought the car from in December used 0w-40 Mobil 1.

The shop said it was the pump. They are going to rip it down do the pump and timing belt... any good questions I should ask him. I already gave him the go ahead but its going to cost about $2500 to $3000 to fix.

 

[ahoier]

Originally Posted By: Familyguy
I'm a bit skeptical. Perhaps the owner has just gotten some suspect advice from a local mechanic.
Very possible. My friend works at a quick lube shop, and said she had a VW come into the shop, first; they had to suspend her service because they didn't have the filter for her vehicle (I guess VW filters for 1990+ are hard to come by, or too expensive to stock in the shop). So customer went down the street to Advance and got a filter (said it cost 12 bucks!) So she was able to service the vehicle. But had to advise an oil flush of some sort, since it took forever for the oil to drain out. And then once the case was empty, even longer to "refill" the engine. Based on the "crud" that was built up around the crankcase/filler cap, there first guess was sludge build up from a badly maintained engine.

Obviously, the shop isn't ASE certified (not many quick lubes are) but put 2 and 2 together and well, sounds like a sludge build up (especially the crusted up crud on the oil filler cover).