BG engine purge or Auto-rx?
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Originally Posted By: jonathag
Ok, I'll head by wal-mart to get the pennzoil platinum and by napa to get the napa gold/wix filter
And head by autozone to get the mmo, and head by a toyota dealer to get the pcv valve.
Walmart will have MMO (and cheaper than Autozone). If you're also going to do the short change routine, you can also "slum it" with a cheapo Fram oil filter and save yourself a trip to Napa. When you change that stuff out after 1000 miles (or whatever you decide), then you can spend the extra couple of dollars on the Wix filter.
Best,
Ok, I'll head by wal-mart to get the pennzoil platinum and by napa to get the napa gold/wix filter
And head by autozone to get the mmo, and head by a toyota dealer to get the pcv valve. Walmart will have MMO (and cheaper than Autozone). If you're also going to do the short change routine, you can also "slum it" with a cheapo Fram oil filter and save yourself a trip to Napa. When you change that stuff out after 1000 miles (or whatever you decide), then you can spend the extra couple of dollars on the Wix filter.
Best,
I have Toyota all my life. I would recommend Auto-RX per direction. I have never used MMO so I don't what it does.
I have a lot of success with Auto-RX in Toyota, so far I have treated my own Camry, 2 other Camry and a RAV4 owned by my friend.
When I bought my Camry at 37K, it has the hesitation when I push the gas. I used Auto-RX, slow process, after the first rinse, the hesitation went away. I continued to finish 2 cycle and that hesitation has forever gone. No, I did not open the Valve cover or do a compression test. This was done around 135K miles, now the car has 170k miles still runs like new. Actually better than when I bought it.
I don't claim it will fix your car, I don't know the condition of your car.
Let the flame begin to me.
I have a lot of success with Auto-RX in Toyota, so far I have treated my own Camry, 2 other Camry and a RAV4 owned by my friend.
When I bought my Camry at 37K, it has the hesitation when I push the gas. I used Auto-RX, slow process, after the first rinse, the hesitation went away. I continued to finish 2 cycle and that hesitation has forever gone. No, I did not open the Valve cover or do a compression test. This was done around 135K miles, now the car has 170k miles still runs like new. Actually better than when I bought it.
I don't claim it will fix your car, I don't know the condition of your car.
Let the flame begin to me.
Originally Posted By: Familyguy
If you're reasonably sure there's still quite a bit of sludge in there, I'd do a short oil change interval with a quart of MMO. After 750-1000 miles I'd dump the oil and filter and use a decent synthetic that isn't going to contribute any additional gunk to the problem.
To answer your questions:
1. Pennzoil Platinum is a synthetic oil that's supposed to have a bit of extra detergency. Good stuff and relatively cheap at Walmart.
2. You can use MMO with any oil. Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or conventional.
3. Wix is a brand name for filters. If you go to your local Napa and ask for a "Napa Gold" oil filter, that's a rebranded Wix. They're pretty good filters and reasonably priced.
Good luck don't sweat the small stuff.
Best,
DITTO, though I would use the the quart of MMO with Maxlife Semi syn because its a great oil and not expensive(it is a heavier oil). The Maxlife also has a lot of detergents. I would run it 1K miles, change the MMO/oil/filter and then run another OCI of 1K miles. After that I would do the Maxlife semi with a pint of MMO for 3K miles. Then do the PP with a pint of MMO for 5K miles. Good luck.
If you're reasonably sure there's still quite a bit of sludge in there, I'd do a short oil change interval with a quart of MMO. After 750-1000 miles I'd dump the oil and filter and use a decent synthetic that isn't going to contribute any additional gunk to the problem.
To answer your questions:
1. Pennzoil Platinum is a synthetic oil that's supposed to have a bit of extra detergency. Good stuff and relatively cheap at Walmart.
2. You can use MMO with any oil. Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or conventional.
3. Wix is a brand name for filters. If you go to your local Napa and ask for a "Napa Gold" oil filter, that's a rebranded Wix. They're pretty good filters and reasonably priced.
Good luck don't sweat the small stuff.
Best,
DITTO, though I would use the the quart of MMO with Maxlife Semi syn because its a great oil and not expensive(it is a heavier oil). The Maxlife also has a lot of detergents. I would run it 1K miles, change the MMO/oil/filter and then run another OCI of 1K miles. After that I would do the Maxlife semi with a pint of MMO for 3K miles. Then do the PP with a pint of MMO for 5K miles. Good luck.
I want to point out that when people here suggest a 'Larger' oil Filter, they normally mean a larger filter that is for a different car application, but the specification is otherwise the same as the OE for your engine.
ie. a Ford Mustang OE filter on a Toyota Avalon.
ie. a Ford Mustang OE filter on a Toyota Avalon.
Originally Posted By: expat
I want to point out that when people here suggest a 'Larger' oil Filter, they normally mean a larger filter that is for a different car application, but the specification is otherwise the same as the OE for your engine.
ie. a Ford Mustang OE filter on a Toyota Avalon.
Yep - this results in more surface area for junk that breaks as the sludge gets dissolved. Get yourself a Fram PH3600. You get like 1.5 times the surface area and all the other variables are the same. I have used this size filter on mine with success.
I want to point out that when people here suggest a 'Larger' oil Filter, they normally mean a larger filter that is for a different car application, but the specification is otherwise the same as the OE for your engine.
ie. a Ford Mustang OE filter on a Toyota Avalon.
Yep - this results in more surface area for junk that breaks as the sludge gets dissolved. Get yourself a Fram PH3600. You get like 1.5 times the surface area and all the other variables are the same. I have used this size filter on mine with success.
Originally Posted By: JMJNet
I have Toyota all my life. I would recommend Auto-RX per direction. I have never used MMO so I don't what it does.
I have a lot of success with Auto-RX in Toyota, so far I have treated my own Camry, 2 other Camry and a RAV4 owned by my friend.
When I bought my Camry at 37K, it has the hesitation when I push the gas. I used Auto-RX, slow process, after the first rinse, the hesitation went away. I continued to finish 2 cycle and that hesitation has forever gone. No, I did not open the Valve cover or do a compression test. This was done around 135K miles, now the car has 170k miles still runs like new. Actually better than when I bought it.
I don't claim it will fix your car, I don't know the condition of your car.
Let the flame begin to me.
No flaming at all, it's all about sharing experiences here.
The only important issue to point out here is the 1MZ-FE 3.0L V6 is an all aluminium engine. The 5S-FE 2.2L I4 engine you have in your '00 Camry (same one I have in my '01) is cast iron with aluminium heads.
From experiences I have had with aluminium engines and Auto-Rx, and I'm sure there are others, I would highly recommend MMO because it does a much better job. On cast iron engines, however, run ARX long and hard and you will yield decent results.
I have Toyota all my life. I would recommend Auto-RX per direction. I have never used MMO so I don't what it does.
I have a lot of success with Auto-RX in Toyota, so far I have treated my own Camry, 2 other Camry and a RAV4 owned by my friend.
When I bought my Camry at 37K, it has the hesitation when I push the gas. I used Auto-RX, slow process, after the first rinse, the hesitation went away. I continued to finish 2 cycle and that hesitation has forever gone. No, I did not open the Valve cover or do a compression test. This was done around 135K miles, now the car has 170k miles still runs like new. Actually better than when I bought it.
I don't claim it will fix your car, I don't know the condition of your car.
Let the flame begin to me.
No flaming at all, it's all about sharing experiences here.
The only important issue to point out here is the 1MZ-FE 3.0L V6 is an all aluminium engine. The 5S-FE 2.2L I4 engine you have in your '00 Camry (same one I have in my '01) is cast iron with aluminium heads.
From experiences I have had with aluminium engines and Auto-Rx, and I'm sure there are others, I would highly recommend MMO because it does a much better job. On cast iron engines, however, run ARX long and hard and you will yield decent results.
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Originally Posted By: JMJNet
I have Toyota all my life. I would recommend Auto-RX per direction. I have never used MMO so I don't what it does.
I have a lot of success with Auto-RX in Toyota, so far I have treated my own Camry, 2 other Camry and a RAV4 owned by my friend.
When I bought my Camry at 37K, it has the hesitation when I push the gas. I used Auto-RX, slow process, after the first rinse, the hesitation went away. I continued to finish 2 cycle and that hesitation has forever gone. No, I did not open the Valve cover or do a compression test. This was done around 135K miles, now the car has 170k miles still runs like new. Actually better than when I bought it.
I don't claim it will fix your car, I don't know the condition of your car.
Let the flame begin to me.
No flaming at all, it's all about sharing experiences here.
The only important issue to point out here is the 1MZ-FE 3.0L V6 is an all aluminium engine. The 5S-FE 2.2L I4 engine you have in your '00 Camry (same one I have in my '01) is cast iron with aluminium heads.
From experiences I have had with aluminium engines and Auto-Rx, and I'm sure there are others, I would highly recommend MMO because it does a much better job. On cast iron engines, however, run ARX long and hard and you will yield decent results.
Also:
Last time you screen clogged within 2k, Do you want to keep you oil and Arx in for 3k
this time?
It sounds like you have an URGENT oil starvation problem. From what I understand (I have never used it) MMO will thin your oil and dissolve the sludge, two things you want if the screen is plugging.
Personally, because I would be running a very short OCI, I would use a cheap conventional oil (like Supertech) and Filter. Yes, synthetic will help keep the engine clean, but on these short OCI's it would not make much difference.
Originally Posted By: JMJNet
I have Toyota all my life. I would recommend Auto-RX per direction. I have never used MMO so I don't what it does.
I have a lot of success with Auto-RX in Toyota, so far I have treated my own Camry, 2 other Camry and a RAV4 owned by my friend.
When I bought my Camry at 37K, it has the hesitation when I push the gas. I used Auto-RX, slow process, after the first rinse, the hesitation went away. I continued to finish 2 cycle and that hesitation has forever gone. No, I did not open the Valve cover or do a compression test. This was done around 135K miles, now the car has 170k miles still runs like new. Actually better than when I bought it.
I don't claim it will fix your car, I don't know the condition of your car.
Let the flame begin to me.
No flaming at all, it's all about sharing experiences here.
The only important issue to point out here is the 1MZ-FE 3.0L V6 is an all aluminium engine. The 5S-FE 2.2L I4 engine you have in your '00 Camry (same one I have in my '01) is cast iron with aluminium heads.
From experiences I have had with aluminium engines and Auto-Rx, and I'm sure there are others, I would highly recommend MMO because it does a much better job. On cast iron engines, however, run ARX long and hard and you will yield decent results.
Also:
Last time you screen clogged within 2k, Do you want to keep you oil and Arx in for 3k
this time?
It sounds like you have an URGENT oil starvation problem. From what I understand (I have never used it) MMO will thin your oil and dissolve the sludge, two things you want if the screen is plugging.
Personally, because I would be running a very short OCI, I would use a cheap conventional oil (like Supertech) and Filter. Yes, synthetic will help keep the engine clean, but on these short OCI's it would not make much difference.
There was a thread about a year ago about a severely sludged Avalon with photos. It was taking multiple treatments of a lot of products. I'll try to find it as it would be instructional.
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Originally Posted By: GROUCHO MARX
There was a thread about a year ago about a severely sludged Avalon with photos. It was taking multiple treatments of a lot of products. I'll try to find it as it would be instructional.
Here it is:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1122903&page=1
There was a thread about a year ago about a severely sludged Avalon with photos. It was taking multiple treatments of a lot of products. I'll try to find it as it would be instructional.
Here it is:
http://www.bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=1122903&page=1
Last edited:
Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
No flaming at all, it's all about sharing experiences here.
The only important issue to point out here is the 1MZ-FE 3.0L V6 is an all aluminium engine. The 5S-FE 2.2L I4 engine you have in your '00 Camry (same one I have in my '01) is cast iron with aluminium heads.
From experiences I have had with aluminium engines and Auto-Rx, and I'm sure there are others, I would highly recommend MMO because it does a much better job. On cast iron engines, however, run ARX long and hard and you will yield decent results.
Falcon_LS,
Thanks for the explanation. I stand corrected on Al Engines. So, all the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine are Al? Is the other Toyota engine like the 2.4L V4 Aluminum (the newer Camry)? I wonder if you know.
No flaming at all, it's all about sharing experiences here.
The only important issue to point out here is the 1MZ-FE 3.0L V6 is an all aluminium engine. The 5S-FE 2.2L I4 engine you have in your '00 Camry (same one I have in my '01) is cast iron with aluminium heads.
From experiences I have had with aluminium engines and Auto-Rx, and I'm sure there are others, I would highly recommend MMO because it does a much better job. On cast iron engines, however, run ARX long and hard and you will yield decent results.
Falcon_LS,
Thanks for the explanation. I stand corrected on Al Engines. So, all the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine are Al? Is the other Toyota engine like the 2.4L V4 Aluminum (the newer Camry)? I wonder if you know.
Here is a link that may shed a little more light on the subject - http://www.enginebuildermag.com/Article/...e_and_5sfe.aspx
Originally Posted By: JMJNet
Falcon_LS,
Thanks for the explanation. I stand corrected on Al Engines. So, all the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine are Al?
I'm about 100% sure that's yes. I'm about 75% sure that the 4 bangers are, too.
Falcon_LS,
Thanks for the explanation. I stand corrected on Al Engines. So, all the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine are Al?
I'm about 100% sure that's yes. I'm about 75% sure that the 4 bangers are, too.
Originally Posted By: JMJNet
Falcon_LS,
Thanks for the explanation. I stand corrected on Al Engines. So, all the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine are Al? Is the other Toyota engine like the 2.4L V4 Aluminum (the newer Camry)? I wonder if you know.
Yes, the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE is aluminium. The 2.4L I4 (2AZ-FE), used in the new Camry, also has an aluminium block and cylinder heads.
Falcon_LS,
Thanks for the explanation. I stand corrected on Al Engines. So, all the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE engine are Al? Is the other Toyota engine like the 2.4L V4 Aluminum (the newer Camry)? I wonder if you know.
Yes, the 3.0L V6 1MZ-FE is aluminium. The 2.4L I4 (2AZ-FE), used in the new Camry, also has an aluminium block and cylinder heads.
Ok, well here's what happened today.
I had decided to have my mechanic take off the valve covers and clean off the valves, then fill with pennzoil platinum synthetic oil and a fram filter and a quart of mmo, he also chgd the pcv valve and valve cover gaskets.
I talked to him yesterday when he was working on it and he brought up a very good point.
Many people advised me not to do a flush with additives, that doing that may break up too much sludge at one time. Everyone advised cleaning the valves though, which per my mechanic broke up a ton more sludge than any engine purge or flush could have ever done. Did we do something wrong by cleaning the valves? He broke up a bunch of sludge that went to the pan, the engine purge or flush would have not been as harsh, right?? I was also posting on another forum, so the people that advised me not to do the flush may have been over on the other forum, since my question on this forum was mainly which additive to choose. I have gotten so many more responses on this forum that I have been on here mostly.
Anyway, he cleaned the valves, and he felt like a flush of some type was needed given the amount of [censored] that was in the pan, so he flushed with oil and atf, this got a little more [censored] out, cleaned the screen, then he filled with 4 quarts of pennzoil platinum and 1 quart of mmo.
I DIDN'T EVEN MAKE IT 10 MILES BEFORE THE OIL LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN!!!!!!!
I pulled off immediately and shut off the car, was able to turn it back on and make it to my destination ok with the light off, and left where I was at about an hour later and droke about 10 miles home without the light being on at all.
Soooooo, what the heck do I do now? My mechanic said if it were him he'd quit trying, but I figure the only options at this point are to do 3 or 4 flushes with all kinds of additives just to flush the [censored] out of it, I mean you can't hurt it anymore right? Or I could put a used engine in it, or I could have a friend sell it at the auction.
Is it worth trying flushing with the bg product, kerosene, gunk engine flush? Or try all of them and run mmo and synthetic and a large oil filter and change the oil every 500 miles for 3 or 4 oc's?
Even if I do all of that, I still can't trust this car, right?!
I can probably have a used engine installed for around 2k.
I had decided to have my mechanic take off the valve covers and clean off the valves, then fill with pennzoil platinum synthetic oil and a fram filter and a quart of mmo, he also chgd the pcv valve and valve cover gaskets.
I talked to him yesterday when he was working on it and he brought up a very good point.
Many people advised me not to do a flush with additives, that doing that may break up too much sludge at one time. Everyone advised cleaning the valves though, which per my mechanic broke up a ton more sludge than any engine purge or flush could have ever done. Did we do something wrong by cleaning the valves? He broke up a bunch of sludge that went to the pan, the engine purge or flush would have not been as harsh, right?? I was also posting on another forum, so the people that advised me not to do the flush may have been over on the other forum, since my question on this forum was mainly which additive to choose. I have gotten so many more responses on this forum that I have been on here mostly.
Anyway, he cleaned the valves, and he felt like a flush of some type was needed given the amount of [censored] that was in the pan, so he flushed with oil and atf, this got a little more [censored] out, cleaned the screen, then he filled with 4 quarts of pennzoil platinum and 1 quart of mmo.
I DIDN'T EVEN MAKE IT 10 MILES BEFORE THE OIL LIGHT CAME ON AGAIN!!!!!!!
I pulled off immediately and shut off the car, was able to turn it back on and make it to my destination ok with the light off, and left where I was at about an hour later and droke about 10 miles home without the light being on at all.
Soooooo, what the heck do I do now? My mechanic said if it were him he'd quit trying, but I figure the only options at this point are to do 3 or 4 flushes with all kinds of additives just to flush the [censored] out of it, I mean you can't hurt it anymore right? Or I could put a used engine in it, or I could have a friend sell it at the auction.
Is it worth trying flushing with the bg product, kerosene, gunk engine flush? Or try all of them and run mmo and synthetic and a large oil filter and change the oil every 500 miles for 3 or 4 oc's?
Even if I do all of that, I still can't trust this car, right?!
I can probably have a used engine installed for around 2k.
Did he check to make sure the oil pressure switch was good? They're cheap and it's not hard to check the actual oil pressure with a mechanical gauge (if your mechanic has one). Any reason why he didn't want to drop the pan and clean the screen on the oil pickup tube?
If it was me, I'd just continue to drive it with 1qt MMO and the Pennzoil platinum so long as the oil light is not on. Installing a used engine doesn't buy you much since you don't know its history.
Best,
If it was me, I'd just continue to drive it with 1qt MMO and the Pennzoil platinum so long as the oil light is not on. Installing a used engine doesn't buy you much since you don't know its history.
Best,
I have the 1MZ-FE motor in my 2003 Sienna.
The "gelling" issue was listed for this motor up through the 2002 model year.
One thing that I notice about the PCV valve.....they list a different PCV valve for my 2003 vs 2002.
Mine does not have a grommet in the rear valve cover.....the PCV valve threads into the valve cover.
So that is one change that was made by Toyota for this motor.
There are the other PCV valvs still listed for my 2003, which I could use if I also purchased the grommet.
However....and I could not find it again.....but I read that the type that I have is the latest version listed for my motor......and that is what was OEM.
The PCV valve is all metal.....no turn in the tube at the top.
I would make SURE that the PCV system is working......if the flow is correct.....it should be a good system......flow OUT the rear valve cover......fresh, clean air enters the front valve cover......driver's side.
If your mechanic cleaned the insides of the valve covers.....AND the oil pan (including the baffel), then that would have been a lot of the crud that is inside the motor.
If they cleaned by removing the junk.....they did a good thing.
Not only is clogging the oil pump pickup a concern.....it is also a concern to avoid blocking the passages that the oil flows through to get from the top.....by the valves.....back down into the pan.
As for the oversized oil filters....
I listed some alternative numbers for this motor in another thread.......exact same specifications and sizing.....except the filter is longer.
2003 Sienna / 1996 3.8L Windstar
Bosch 72161 / 72143
Bosch Premium 3330 / 3422
WIX 51348 / 51516
ACDelco PF53 / PFL400A
Fram X2 XG3614 / XG3600
Mobil 1 M1-102 / M1-209
K&N HP-1002 / HP-2009
Purolator PL10241 or L10241 / PL20195 or L20195
You mention FRAM, the one that I would use is the XG.....which is their long life version......of course I would not be running it for the extended interval...but I think that it would be the best of the FRAM lineup for your situation.
I have the WIX 51516 on my Sienna right now.
I found the cross for the numbers because my old vehicle uses the larger filter.....and I looked it up on the WIX and Purolator websites and compared specifications.
If it were my car......I would continue doing what you have been....trying to clean up the motor.
The "gelling" issue was listed for this motor up through the 2002 model year.
One thing that I notice about the PCV valve.....they list a different PCV valve for my 2003 vs 2002.
Mine does not have a grommet in the rear valve cover.....the PCV valve threads into the valve cover.
So that is one change that was made by Toyota for this motor.
There are the other PCV valvs still listed for my 2003, which I could use if I also purchased the grommet.
However....and I could not find it again.....but I read that the type that I have is the latest version listed for my motor......and that is what was OEM.
The PCV valve is all metal.....no turn in the tube at the top.
I would make SURE that the PCV system is working......if the flow is correct.....it should be a good system......flow OUT the rear valve cover......fresh, clean air enters the front valve cover......driver's side.
If your mechanic cleaned the insides of the valve covers.....AND the oil pan (including the baffel), then that would have been a lot of the crud that is inside the motor.
If they cleaned by removing the junk.....they did a good thing.
Not only is clogging the oil pump pickup a concern.....it is also a concern to avoid blocking the passages that the oil flows through to get from the top.....by the valves.....back down into the pan.
As for the oversized oil filters....
I listed some alternative numbers for this motor in another thread.......exact same specifications and sizing.....except the filter is longer.
2003 Sienna / 1996 3.8L Windstar
Bosch 72161 / 72143
Bosch Premium 3330 / 3422
WIX 51348 / 51516
ACDelco PF53 / PFL400A
Fram X2 XG3614 / XG3600
Mobil 1 M1-102 / M1-209
K&N HP-1002 / HP-2009
Purolator PL10241 or L10241 / PL20195 or L20195
You mention FRAM, the one that I would use is the XG.....which is their long life version......of course I would not be running it for the extended interval...but I think that it would be the best of the FRAM lineup for your situation.
I have the WIX 51516 on my Sienna right now.
I found the cross for the numbers because my old vehicle uses the larger filter.....and I looked it up on the WIX and Purolator websites and compared specifications.
If it were my car......I would continue doing what you have been....trying to clean up the motor.
I guess I don't understand. Why would he have to switch out or change the oil pressure switch? It's obvious there is a sludge in the engine and that is what is causing the light to come on, right? And he did clean the screen, twice. Or is there two screens-one sump and one on the pickup tube?
He put a new OEM pcv valve on.
I still don't get it, why did alot of people say DON'T DO AN ENGINE PURGE OR FLUSH BECAUSE YOU'LL BREAK UP THE SLUDGE TOO FAST, but then people say to clean the sludge out of the valves manually--don't you break up more sludge by cleaning the valves??
I guess my question now is, if I do the flushes myself, should I just flush the [censored] out of it with as many chemicals as I can get my hands on? Or just drive it around town and not out of town and see if I can get a few miles out of it with the pennzoil and mmo in it?
Is it possible that today when I left the shop that a little sludge got caught in the sump screen so the light came on, then by pulling off and sitting for a while, that the sludge moved out the way or dissolved, so it's possible it may be ok to drive now? Or by the light coming on is it just hosed up for good? Can I expect the light to come on every once in a while anyway now since the pennzoil and mmo are cleaning things up?
If the screen is clogged up again, will the chemicals clean or dissolve the sludge that is clogging up the screen? or will the screen need to be removed again? If I don't have to remove the screen, then I can do the flushes myself at home and save myself money and downtime without a car.
Thanks for the advice on the oil filters, I'll look those up, there is a Fram TG or XG or there now, can't remember which one.
He put a new OEM pcv valve on.
I still don't get it, why did alot of people say DON'T DO AN ENGINE PURGE OR FLUSH BECAUSE YOU'LL BREAK UP THE SLUDGE TOO FAST, but then people say to clean the sludge out of the valves manually--don't you break up more sludge by cleaning the valves??
I guess my question now is, if I do the flushes myself, should I just flush the [censored] out of it with as many chemicals as I can get my hands on? Or just drive it around town and not out of town and see if I can get a few miles out of it with the pennzoil and mmo in it?
Is it possible that today when I left the shop that a little sludge got caught in the sump screen so the light came on, then by pulling off and sitting for a while, that the sludge moved out the way or dissolved, so it's possible it may be ok to drive now? Or by the light coming on is it just hosed up for good? Can I expect the light to come on every once in a while anyway now since the pennzoil and mmo are cleaning things up?
If the screen is clogged up again, will the chemicals clean or dissolve the sludge that is clogging up the screen? or will the screen need to be removed again? If I don't have to remove the screen, then I can do the flushes myself at home and save myself money and downtime without a car.
Thanks for the advice on the oil filters, I'll look those up, there is a Fram TG or XG or there now, can't remember which one.
I would not dump a lot of stuff into the oil.
The MMO is supposed to be faster acting than the AutoRX.
Both seem to have respect on this forum.
I mentioned the different PCV valve on my newer version of the same motor.....as a matter of something that they changed on the motor.
Usually, you are safest using the OEM PCV valve as there is quite a varience with aftermarket PCV valves.
On my Toyota and my old vehicle.....I saw a LOT of different PCV valves listed for the vehicle in the aftermarket brands......some of which very clearly are not the correct part for the vehicle.
A part can be the best quality....but the wrong part for your particular application.
Having your mechanic manualy clean crud from your motor, if done correctly, was a good move.
If they cleaned the crud by removing it, then that crud is no longer in the motor to cause problems.......true, cleaning in some locations can dislodge some particles that they do not get out......
For instance......removing and cleaning the valve covers......and flushing the cams/valves......not letting the junk run on down into the motor....
Also removing and cleaning the oil pan....and baffel.....
That is all crud that your cleaners will not be used up on.......and that your oil filter will not become loaded up with.
Good thing is......the 1MZ-FE motor on my Sienna is much easier to remove the oil pan on (I have not done that) than it would be on my '96 3.8L Ford Windstar.......which requires that the "Y" pipe be removed.....which is the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifolds....includes the catalytic converters......lots of work.
When your mechanic removed the valve covers to clean.........since they were back at the rear valve cover......that would have been a good time to pop in a new set of spark plugs......if you were going to be doing that in the near future.
One other thing that I found on my 2003 Sienna, the original thermostat is running a good 10 degrees cooler than it should be.....which I have read can contribute to oil issues.......something on my 'to-do' list for when the weather warms up enough.
The MMO is supposed to be faster acting than the AutoRX.
Both seem to have respect on this forum.
I mentioned the different PCV valve on my newer version of the same motor.....as a matter of something that they changed on the motor.
Usually, you are safest using the OEM PCV valve as there is quite a varience with aftermarket PCV valves.
On my Toyota and my old vehicle.....I saw a LOT of different PCV valves listed for the vehicle in the aftermarket brands......some of which very clearly are not the correct part for the vehicle.
A part can be the best quality....but the wrong part for your particular application.
Having your mechanic manualy clean crud from your motor, if done correctly, was a good move.
If they cleaned the crud by removing it, then that crud is no longer in the motor to cause problems.......true, cleaning in some locations can dislodge some particles that they do not get out......
For instance......removing and cleaning the valve covers......and flushing the cams/valves......not letting the junk run on down into the motor....
Also removing and cleaning the oil pan....and baffel.....
That is all crud that your cleaners will not be used up on.......and that your oil filter will not become loaded up with.
Good thing is......the 1MZ-FE motor on my Sienna is much easier to remove the oil pan on (I have not done that) than it would be on my '96 3.8L Ford Windstar.......which requires that the "Y" pipe be removed.....which is the pipe that goes from the exhaust manifolds....includes the catalytic converters......lots of work.
When your mechanic removed the valve covers to clean.........since they were back at the rear valve cover......that would have been a good time to pop in a new set of spark plugs......if you were going to be doing that in the near future.
One other thing that I found on my 2003 Sienna, the original thermostat is running a good 10 degrees cooler than it should be.....which I have read can contribute to oil issues.......something on my 'to-do' list for when the weather warms up enough.
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