BG engine purge or Auto-rx?

[panthermike]

Originally Posted By: jonathag
Thanks a ton everybody for all of this great advice. I had never heard of the mmo before and can't see any application on their website relating to sludge, did I miss that?



Most companies don't have seperate applications for various conditions. I've found a good combo is a HDEO(such as Delvac) plus 1qt of MMO, works really well. Some say HDEO's have cleaning abilities anyways, so it seems like a win win. Also, since the oil is 15w40, it will negate the small change in viscosity the MMO may give you. Just some food for thought. Good luck, hope it works out for you.

As for your original question; I would use ARX over the BG in your situation.

 

[greenaccord02]

Here's what I would do:

Fill it up to the top with diesel and turn the engine over a couple of times, but don't start it. Let it sit like that for 12 hours with the diesel in it. Drain the diesel out and pour in 5 quarts of ATF. Crank it and let it idle for five minutes, then let it sit for a couple hours, then let it idle again for five minutes. While still warm, drain the ATF and remove the filter. Put in cheap conventional and a cheap filter and drive the [censored] out of it - really open it up and get it piping hot over no more than 50 or so miles, then drain the conventional and the filter while it's still hot. From there, use a 3k OCI with a HM conventional oil for the next 15k, then switch to a good synthetic. Look for an HTO-06 Spec.

You might consider an oversize filter, too.

 

[expat]

I would suggest some real short OCI's (with cheap oil) to get the sludge out.
Your engine is shedding sludge already, the sludge MUST get to the oil pan before it gets in the screen, So you will want to get the sludge out ASAP, not let it accumulate until it clogs the screen again!
MMO or some other solvent may help on the short (perhaps 1K) OCI's
The way you engine has performed so far, it may not survive 3K with Arx in the oil (Arx claims to clean mostly during the two rinse cycles (Not that I personally had any luck with it, at any point)

 

[demarpaint]

My suggestion for using MMO would be add a pint to the last 1000 miles of the current OCI. Next OCI fresh oil, fresh filter replace 1 qt of oil with 1 qt of MMO drive for 3000 miles, repeat. After that you should have a nice and clean engine. Return to normal OCI's and add a pint of MMO for the last 1000 miles of the OCI. I would not add ATF, diesel fuel or anything else to the engine.

You could also consider a quick flush, from what I've read Amsoil makes a good one. Then after that flush use the method above that I suggested, starting off with a fresh fill of clean oil and filter, a short OCI, and a pint of MMO at the end of the OCI. After a quick flush there is usually some residual product remaining in the engine.

Keep in mind that in order to get an engine all sludged up it took time, it will take a little time and patience to clean it up, JMO. HTH

 

[VicL]

Originally Posted By: jonathag
Thanks a ton everybody for all of this great advice. I had never heard of the mmo before and can't see any application on their website relating to sludge, did I miss that?

So mmo works slower than the bg, but faster than arx?

The fact that MMO doesn't list sludge on its website as a specific application should not throw you off. It contains plenty of solvent for cleaning and will definitely help with cleaning up your crankcase.

Vic

 

[ET16]

I think if it were mine I'd look into finding a shop with one of those Bilstein engine oil flush machines.

 

[jonathag]

Wow, lots of advice, my head is spinning!!

And it would be ok to start using synthetic oil? A guy at auto-zone told me that since the car has 150k miles on it and has never had synthetic oil in it, that if I started using synthetic oil I may see leaks that I'd never seen before, true?

And there was some talk about an oversized filter. I went to auto-zone and got 6 different filters off the shelf for my car and put them all next to each other and they were all roughly the same physical size, the fram was bigger than a couple of brands, the biggest was the mobile 1 filter. Can I use that filter with regular oil or just synthetic?

 

[expat]

The guy at Auto-zone is stupid, don't listen to him!

 

[Jax_RX8]

While I like BG Products, but I would not recommend any "quick" flushes (any brand) as it will loosen too much too fast in a vehicle as gummed up as your sounds and is likely to clog up you oil passages, oil pump screen, oil filter etc.

I would use MMO, 1/2 quart for 1000 miles, change oil with 1 quart of MMO/remaining fill with good dino oil (PYB) for 3000 miles, repeat until clean. It will take a few OCIs to get it clean.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Personally, as a 1MZ-FE owner in a '02 Lexus ES, I would go out and purchase a Toyota OE PCV valve and 4 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 (assuming oil capacity is 5 quarts) and 1 quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Changing the PCV valve is a fair bit of work on this engine, which is why I would highly recommend an OE valve. Get a decent filter, such as a Motorcraft FL-910, and change out the oil. Drive for 3,000 miles and repeat a few times. Keep a close eye on the oil level.

Once the engine is cleaned up, stick with Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40. Approximately 3,000 miles prior to your oil change, dump in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Best of luck.

 

[jonathag]

Thanks again everyone! I'm going to try the mmo, good thing I can get that at autozone.

What about a digital oil gauge? Are those useful?

I'm just afraid I'll be driving down the road and the light won't come on even though the engine is starved for oil, then the engine lock up on me while I'm going 70mph! I drive alot on the hiway mostly so I drive 70mph mostly all the time, don't want my engine to lock up on me going that fast!

 

[demarpaint]

If you are going through the bother of installing an oil pressure gauge get a mechanical gauge they're the most accurate.

Good choice with the MMO, let us know how things work out!

BTW WECLOME TO BITOG!

 

[greenaccord02]

Originally Posted By: jonathag
And there was some talk about an oversized filter. I went to auto-zone and got 6 different filters off the shelf for my car and put them all next to each other and they were all roughly the same physical size, the fram was bigger than a couple of brands, the biggest was the mobile 1 filter. Can I use that filter with regular oil or just synthetic?


That was me. Check the M1-209 and other filters that are the same as that one. Everything about these filters is the same as your filter, they're just an inch or so longer.

 

[jonathag]

Cool, thanks everyone, this forum has been great and a real lifesaver! I just talked to my mechanic and he's got the valve covers off, he said the sludge is not as bad as he was expecting, so that's good

So I'm guessing the screen is gunked up again.

I'm going to go with the mmo.

So, should I try any engine flushes before putting in the mmo, or just have him clean the screen and valves, replace the valve gaskets and pcv valve (I'll pickup an oem pcv valve too and take the autozone brand back), and put in a good oil and good filter and the mmo and just drive it?

I bought some Valvoline synthetic blend oil and a fram tough guard oil filter, are those ok or should I get a different type of oil and a different filter? Price is no object, I'll go with a mobile 1 filter if needed since that filter was the only one that looked bigger.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Originally Posted By: Falcon_LS
Once the engine is cleaned up, stick with Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 or Mobil 1 0W-40. Approximately 3,000 miles prior to your oil change, dump in a quart of Marvel Mystery Oil. Best of luck.


Sorry, this should read a pint.

There is no need to use any engine flush before using MMO. Just clean the screen, replace the valve gaskets and PCV valve. You might want to replace your spark plugs with iridium ones whilst you're at it.

Valvoline is a decent oil, and feel free to use it if you so desire. Pennzoil Platinum is a decent cleaning oil which, when combined with MMO, should yield positive results, and that was why I was recommending it. But replace the Fram filter with a WIX, Motorcraft or Purolator. Best of luck, and keep us informed.

 

[jonathag]

Cool, thanks!

I'm getting ready to head out and get some spark plugs and he is going to install those too.

So is the pennzoil platinum a 'dino' oil? So many people have said to use the mmo with a dino oil.

I'm sorry, I am not used to the abbreviations..what is a WIX filter?

I'm going to go the short oci route, with 4 quarts of oil and 1 quart of mmo for 1000 miles, then change again. I'll get my mechanic to show me how to pull the valve cover off so I can check them myself at home to see if things are cleaning up, but I want to make sure I'm getting the right type of oil for all of these oil changes.

It's a little peculiar why the valves aren't that sludged up!

 

[jonathag]

And should I bother with replacing the oil pump at this point? There was a bunch of sludge on the screen the first time this happened, so I know there is sludge in the engine, but I'm not sure if it's worth it to change the oil pump too.

 

[Familyguy]

If you're reasonably sure there's still quite a bit of sludge in there, I'd do a short oil change interval with a quart of MMO. After 750-1000 miles I'd dump the oil and filter and use a decent synthetic that isn't going to contribute any additional gunk to the problem.

To answer your questions:

1. Pennzoil Platinum is a synthetic oil that's supposed to have a bit of extra detergency. Good stuff and relatively cheap at Walmart.

2. You can use MMO with any oil. Doesn't matter if it's synthetic or conventional.

3. Wix is a brand name for filters. If you go to your local Napa and ask for a "Napa Gold" oil filter, that's a rebranded Wix. They're pretty good filters and reasonably priced.

Good luck don't sweat the small stuff.

Best,

 

[demarpaint]

Did the mechanic verify oil pressure by checking it with a mechanical gauge? The pan has already been down once, it could be a bad pump, it could be bad bearings too. Sludge on the screen could have starved the bearings of oil. If it were my car the first thing I would have done when an oil light came on was check the oil, then hook up an oil pressure gauge and got some readings, then proceed from there.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Just make sure the spark plugs are iridium long life plugs - I'd recommend NGK IFR6T11 or Denso SK20R11. It's quite a hassle to change on this engine, so you want long lasting ones for your convenience.

Pennzoil Platinum is a Group III full synthetic oil, which has proven cleaning capabilities. It's a favourite amongst most here on BITOG, especially for the price! WIX is producer of automotive filters and their filters are excellent.

Oil pumps for these engines are a bit on the pricey side ($200+). If you want to replace it for your peace of mind, then by all means. I beleive Aisin is Toyota's OE supplier, so you may get a better deal on an Aisin branded oil pump. Beck/Arnley is an excellent choice should you wish to go with the aftermarket. But if there's nothing wrong with it, save yourself the $$$!