slick 50

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Use a good synthetic oil. Why buy a magic potion....

What's better to buy the best water you can drink, or to buy cheap sewer water and try to add a potion to it to make it crystal clean clear water.

To me it makes sense to just start with the good stuff.
 
Don't waste your money!
Slick 50 is garbage PTFE does nothing in an internal combustion engine it does not belong there even dupont will tell you that. Btw slick 50 was sued by the FTC some years back for false unproven claims i don't know how that stuff is still on the market.
 
Originally Posted By: Ironduke4
Don't waste your money!
Slick 50 is garbage PTFE does nothing in an internal combustion engine it does not belong there even dupont will tell you that. Btw slick 50 was sued by the FTC some years back for false unproven claims i don't know how that stuff is still on the market.


Better do your homework before you start trying to educate the masses. The FTC thing is old news from years gone by. Slick 50 has not contained any form of PTFE since Shell Oil bought the Pennzoil-Quaker State Company. Slick 50 is now just a 10w30 carrier oil with a boat load of anti wear additives. Won't hurt a thing.

Carry on
 
I bought a bunch a couple years ago when Home Depot was closing out their oil stock ($1 PYB, $2.50-$3 M1). For $2 a qt I figured it was about the same as a qt of oil. Using in my aged (Nearing 300,000 miles )but still running well '97 Ford Aerostar 4.0 AWD.

At $15 a qt? No thanks
 
Originally Posted By: tenderloin
I bought a bunch a couple years ago when Home Depot was closing out their oil stock ($1 PYB, $2.50-$3 M1). For $2 a qt I figured it was about the same as a qt of oil. Using in my aged (Nearing 300,000 miles )but still running well '97 Ford Aerostar 4.0 AWD.

At $15 a qt? No thanks


+1

At closeout prices I'd buy it too.
 
Originally Posted By: tenderloin
I bought a bunch a couple years ago when Home Depot was closing out their oil stock ($1 PYB, $2.50-$3 M1). For $2 a qt I figured it was about the same as a qt of oil. Using in my aged (Nearing 300,000 miles )but still running well '97 Ford Aerostar 4.0 AWD.

At $15 a qt? No thanks


Home Depot sells motor oil?

Thats news to me, but then again, I don't get out much.
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I put Quaker State High Mileage in my '66 Mustang and '88 Chevy 4x4 (both high miles and burn/leak some oil) and noticed the bottles state that it contains Slick 50. The clerk at Autozone and I were both surprised.
 
Originally Posted By: zddp77
No additives are needed if you use a quality SM-ILSAC GF-4 engine oil.


According to the Slick 50 site it is a 10W30 oil that meets ILSAC GF-4 specifications.
 
You want something that has benefits, not something that "won't do any harm." If it doesn't do any harm, then it can be left out of your engine and the same effect is achieved. If your engine is in good repair, stick with your favorite oil.
 
Originally Posted By: outoforder
You want something that has benefits, not something that "won't do any harm." If it doesn't do any harm, then it can be left out of your engine and the same effect is achieved. If your engine is in good repair, stick with your favorite oil.
I like that, good statement
 
I never believed in Slick50, although I did use Tufoil a few times. Slick50 has changed (see Johhny's post) and no longer has PTFE. But I would not buy it.

Motor oils already have friction reducers included. When you buy a good quality motor oil it already has the stuff in it. There is moly or something else in the oil to reduce friction. There is no need to buy anything else to try to reduce the friction even more. There are other things to consider like how well an oil keeps an engine clean and pour point in the cold and anti-wear and so forth.

But if I did want something to try to reduce the friction and wear even more I think I would use something like Lubro-Moly rather than Slick50.

I hate to bring up Synlube. It is better to let the Synlube story die out here. But I can't resist bringing it up here for a reason. The people who market Synlube say that it has PTFE, moly and graphite in it. Do you need 3 friction reducers in the same oil? If I was developing motor oils I think I would probably stick to moly or perhaps something cheaper than moly that has proved to be just as effective.

You can only reduce the friction so much with current technoloy and with reasonable expense. After a while the gains gewt less and less and the expense of achieving more friction reduction get higher and higher. And reduction of friction is only one timy part of the story. There is much more to an oil than just reduction of friction.
 
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