Side effects of using M1 HM?

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I have 87K on my 06 2500HD with the 6.0L Currently use 0w-30. The truck burns zero oil and has no leaks, except the oil cooler line which weeps out a little. I drive the truck everyday but not far. My OLMs usually kick off at 2700-2800 in the winter and 5K in the summer. (I drive less then 1 mile to work round trip daily.) We got a "special handelig" Jug of the 5w30 HM at work because of a damaged cap and I was thinking of putting that in the next time around. Any thoughts? Are there any additives that are in HM oils that are not good for the engine?
 
Mobil1 HM seems to be a very good oil. In your application I think there are two things to consider:

First, M1 HM is SL-rated while your truck call for SM. Mobil explains this as being only a result of including more anti-wear additives (zinc, I guess) than the SM standards allow. So, this could be a good thing, but it isn't exactly what the factory ordered.

Second, there is some debate here about whether M1 HM includes only seal "conditioners" or also includes seal "swellers". Seal conditioners seem pretty harmless but if seal swellers swell seals that don't need it, who knows? To be fair, I don't recall ever seeing a real-life report that suggested this recreated a problem.

So probably just fine, but you may want to consider whether taking any risk at all is worth the $25 you'll save.
 
Each HM oil is different. One jug, one oil change won't do anything. I prefer running M1 HM to regular M1. Think it has a stouter, better wearing, better cleaning add pack. The Camry engine in my signature will easily outlast the body without replacing one single gasket. I tried using several different regular syns. Would consume a lot of oil and leak from everywhere. I love the stuff.
 
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The HM oil should be fine, but only driving one mile trips is a real engine killer. There are two things that can help offset the effects of short tripping, one is to fit a pre heater if you don't have a heated garage, even a simple stick on sump heater will help if it is big enough. The other thing to do is to make sure you get a few hours of highway driving in at least once a month to burn off deposits. If you can't do either then look into using some direct application cylinder cleaner once a year or when you change the plugs. Some manufacturers like GM have a fully approved cleaner fluid, so ask your dealer etc.
 
Oh I know its a killer. Thats why my OLM kicks off before 3K miles lol. I have a heated garage but the GF's car stays in there as my truck fits but its reallllly tight due to the length. It always sits outside.
 
Changing the oil more often does help, but it won't stop cold start or rich running engine wear. Sounds like you are within range for a power cable and the fuel saving is about the same as the cost of a few hours electric. A few good stick on sump heat pads will only cost a few hundred dollars, then add an electric timer switch and a quick disconnect socket in case you forget to unplug and it should help the engine a lot, although nothing will beat a full main block coolant pre heater, but that could easily cost a lot more.
A small 500W ceramic heater in the cabin can also keep your toes warm in winter if you get fully wired up to kill the cold start wear factors.
 
Unless you have seal leaks or a reason to necessitate needing a hm oil I see no reason to use it however I doubt it will do any harm and if the price is right then give it a shot
 
Out of all the M1 oils I've used,the HM is the smoothest. It has the best add pack out of all Mobil's street oils. I'm guessing the HM additive is a dash of ester,which is a good thing.
 
Most HM oils use fairly standard conventional base stocks, but they have a beefed up add pack with more detergents and anti wear additives, plus seal conditioners to reduce leaks. They seem to look like the add packs for a claasic HDEO, but with the extra seal conditioners. There is one HC synthetic HM oil available, but I forget which brand that was.
The amount of seal conditioners was reduced slightly a while back, so most are rated to be OK for new engines if you wanted to use one for some odd reason, because they are only needed for engines with high oil consumption or leaks that are beyond economic repair, although they do have enough detergents to clean well.
 
^ +1

Correct skyship.

They are fine to use in new engines, but not needed. The amount of seal conditioners used would never cause a problem. They've been tested.
 
Sounds good guys. I think I'm going to run it with a new Purolator synthetic blue filter.
 
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