Which HM oil for swelling rubber seals?

ELS

Joined
Oct 3, 2006
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North Carolina
I hate to even ask this. But I have an Acura RDX turbo which has a oil weeping problem at the oil filter housing rubber seals where the filter holding housing mounts to the block as a separate part.

If I could choose, I would rather replace the rubber seals at this oil change. But it's not going to happen. They are kinda like o-rings as it turns out but are a special shape for the inlet and outlet and I think they aren't just a round rubber but more squarish as far as diameter that fits in the seal groove. I can't get the parts at the moment. Nobody local stocks them and I've already went through the ordeal of ordering them from an online parts house, having them not show up, and having my order cancelled and refunded because they didn't actually have them on hand to ship either, and so I'm already past my OCI. This job is a PITA, otherwise I'd probably try taking it apart to apply some oil safe gasket sealer stuff until the next OCI. It would probably work. But it's not a job I want to do twice.

So what I am looking for is an oil to try this OCI that might soften and fatten up these rubber seals and stop the leak short term.

To be honest, I had this issue last winter too. This car has "use mobil 1 5w30" right on the oil cap. So I switched it over to mobil 1 HM last winter and thought it actually worked. Reality is, it just got warmer. The seals are just sad enough that when it's very cold they contract enough to weep a little oil. Not even enough to matter. I just don't like that I know it's weeping and I don't like the little spots collection on my driveway. An oil with a good seal conditioner would probably do the trick.

I've took the time to read a few HM labels, and really I only saw that Valvoline and Pennzoil HM actually state they have seal conditioners out of those I looked at.

So what should I actually try in this turbo car that will be a good substitute for Mobil 1 that might actually swell these little rubber seals some and stop the weeping for say 5k miles until I can get these stupid little seals on hand and decent weather to change them?

I've had good service out of Mobil 1. But I'm not a fanboy or anything. In fact I really don't think the HM has seal conditioners, and from what I am seeing Mobil 1's formula changed a while back. I don't follow oil trends and changes or anything. I have just been noticing that it now darkens much faster and things I use it in are starting to weep it out at different spots. You know kind of like it has a higher detergent formula that is cleaning up and suspending more stuff. I know my vehicles are getting older and don't blame the oil for the weeps I'm noticing. But it is certainly getting darker much faster than it used to in my vehicles which is not something I am seeing from my small engines that I am running older stockpiled oils in.

Anyways, just looking to try something for an OCI that might work until the timing situation is better to fix it correctly and reduce the number of spots I'm going to have to remove from the driveway in the spring.
 
I don't think a one time run of HM will help much on a leaky O-ring, at least not quickly.

I would either just wait on the change until you get the parts, or go ahead and change the oil then change the cooler o-ring later. You will likely not loose a ton of oil later - I would guess less than a quart - so no big deal to top up if you go that route.
 
I never understood Honda's love for things like this. I had an old Prelude that took me hours to replace those oil filter housing seals against the block. Personally, I would change the oil now with whatever oil you would use anyhow. Then get the parts, and on the first warm day, and it sounds like you'll need all day, replace it. I hate the drips too, but they won't kill the motor.
 
I never understood Honda's love for things like this. I had an old Prelude that took me hours to replace those oil filter housing seals against the block. Personally, I would change the oil now with whatever oil you would use anyhow. Then get the parts, and on the first warm day, and it sounds like you'll need all day, replace it. I hate the drips too, but they won't kill the motor.
Is it not like this? An O-Ring behind the oil cooler which is behind the oil filter?

Nissan's are pretty much identical to this as well - btw. Fairly easy swap. No need to drain the coolant.

 
It was just no space between the back of the block and the firewall to get it from underneath the car, or I needed to take off the intake to get it from the top. Just a sucky repair on that car.
 
Just replace those seals. That job isn’t even difficult:


I've done this job on a friends RDX and it sucks. Yes it's fairly straight forward, 4 bolts, 2 seals. But when you go to remove and install the top 2 bolts, umm not so much. To say the top 2 bolts aren't fun is an understatement. CV axle is in the way among other things and it's one of those where you turn the bolts like 1/16 at a time.

I was going to go ahead and lay in the cold and do it but nobody local had the seals. I ordered them from an online parts house and they never showed. Turned out they didn't have them either so they cancelled the order and refunded. Now I'm past my OCI waiting on parts that didn't come. So I just want to try something else and get my oil changed tomorrow. I'll order the seals from somewhere else and change them out when it warms up or next OCI.
 
It was just no space between the back of the block and the firewall to get it from underneath the car, or I needed to take off the intake to get it from the top. Just a sucky repair on that car.
Yeah the critic posted a link to the repair which if you go down through it and can see the pictures you get a decent idea of the job. It's not overly complex. It's just there is no room to get at, get on, and turn the top 2 bolts, and when you do you can barely turn them, and then you gotta do it again.

It's a case of using a Honda engine in other applications, in an Acura application with turbo, AWD, different body, etc. The housing allows them to relocate the filter to the left of the engine mount and below the CV axle shaft and bearing housing that goes over to drive the passenger CV axle. In some Honda applications there's room to get at the top 2 bolts.

I've done it before and would prefer to do the repair at this oil change. But I'm past my OCI waiting on seals that didn't show and at this point I just want to pick up some oil and do my oil change with an oil that might actually stop the really minor weeping that drops a dime spot on my drive here and there, and knock it out next time around or warm weather, and warm weather will probably come around first.
 
My testing between Mobil 1 HM and Pennzoil HM. Pennzoil stopped the leak where Mobil 1 did not.
Thank you.

I honestly don't think the Mobil 1 has much if any seal conditioners. Not knocking Mobil 1 at all, I have used a lot of it. Just saying on the seal conditioner.

I will check with Pennzoil and see if the HM surpasses the old HTO-06 specs for use in this engine. That is probably moot as well, because the Mobil 1 HM probably didn't meet it either. Like I stated I really don't follow things heavily, so I am not sure that spec was ever actually superseded by any new specifications. More than likely its more so a spec that is obsolete to the manufacturers because not much required that spec... not worth bothering with testing and certification. Not sure though.

So if anyone knows if HTO-06 just went obsolete or got surpassed with another spec that would be nice to know too. I really don't know other than the Mobil 1 I was running before the HM did have the HTO-06 certification on the back label.
 
Just went through the exact same thing on my “leaky” VW Passat. Once it got cold, the seals may have shrunk a bit, enough to cause the weeping. And to those that replied to my other thread, yes, it DOES bother me 😁. Put LM Motor Oil Saver in almost 1500 miles ago and nada. Still leaked, if not a little more. Main area I found was the seal area between the block and oil filter housing, which is a real pain in the tail to get off and replace the seals. So many other components have to come off and when it’s chilly in the garage, I’m not very motivated. Decided to throw some Valvoline MaxLife (red bottle)10W-40 HM in it for grins. I used it when the car was purchased to “seal” some small leaks and it did what it said it would. Garage floor was spot-free up until this winter set in. Also wondered if the SN Castrol 0W-40 with high PAO content may have not played well with the older seals. Anyway, 300 miles after the change to MaxLife and drips have slowed to just one small spot. Big improvement. Don’t know if it was 100% change to HM but heck of a coincidence if not. Others that have tried MaxLife report similar results. Oh, and the 10W-40 has an HTHS of 4.0 and is also newer SP formula.
 
I used Castrol syn blend HM a few years ago in an Xterra and it definitely slowed a leak. I no longer have that car so i can't speak to how long the effect lasts.

I can't compare to other brands of HM because I didn't have any leaks when I used them in the cars I currently own (I go back and forth between HM and non-HM, depending on sales/rebates, regardless of whether I have leaks or not).

Edit:
Also, the link that @The Critic posted above shoes some great pics of the tools needed, when the weather warms and you are able to repair this seal properly.
 
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Order the part from your local dealer. Dont bother trying magical tricks with an oil leak like that.
 
Order from dealer as mentioned or why not just from Rock Auto. Whenever I use Rock Auto -- shipping is usually pretty fast and the 5% discount code you can get off Sales/Rebates form on here usually convers the shipping in most cases. Good luck & keep us posted.
 
I've had good luck with maxlife both Syn and Blend slowing small leaks on my jeep. One of them is at the oil filter adapter gasket on the side of the block. Later I got a great deal on some non-hm oil and used it, sure enough those leaks came back and if anything were worse. So if you have success with something, maybe stick with it until you get a chance to change the gasket.
 
I honestly don't think the Mobil 1 has much if any seal conditioners.

If you believe that oxidation is an indicator of seal conditioning esters, then Mobil 1 and Valvoline have more than Pennzoil, Castrol, Quaker State or Super Tech.
 
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