5W-20 conventional oil

[dm1961]

I've got a 2006 Ford Escape with the 3.0 EcoBoost engine. It weeps oil, as a lot of them do. I've been using Castrol 5W-20 High Mileage synthetic blend, and don't have to add oil between oil changes, but the stain on the driveway annoys me. I see 5W-20 conventional oil at Meijer and Farm and Fleet. Might conventional oil reduce the leaking?

 

[Corollaman]

I've had good luck using Valvoline Maxlife to reduce and one case stop an oil leak. I'd try 5w20 or 5w30 syn blend maxlife.

 

[dm1961]

Sounds good. Menards has it, and they have that 15% off right now. I'll pick up a couple of jugs.

 

[OilStainedNapkin]

Do you know where it’s leaking from? I second the maxlife recommendation. Lots of folks on here in past posts have seen improvements with its use

 

[Oliveoil2]

Maxlife 5w-30!

 

[cptbarkey]

No. Your gaskets are old. Replace them.

 

[Carlostrece]

I've got a 2006 Ford Escape with the 3.0 EcoBoost engine. It weeps oil, as a lot of them do. I've been using Castrol 5W-20 High Mileage synthetic blend, and don't have to add oil between oil changes, but the stain on the driveway annoys me. I see 5W-20 conventional oil at Meijer and Farm and Fleet. Might conventional oil reduce the leaking?

Try snugging oil pan and valve cover bolts to proper torque. Sometimes that helps. It can't hurt. Also, try to identify the source of leak.

Synthetic oil leaks most, conventional oil least, synthetic blend is in between. 5w30 leaks less that 5w20. High Mileage (HM) oils are designed to leak less. You can combine those traits to minimize leaking. For examples of oils that combine those traits.

I think you'd do best with a 5w30 HM oil that's a Blend or Conventional.
I suggest 5w30 Valvoline HM Maxlife Blend (red bottle), or 5w30 Oreilly HM Conventional, or any brand of 5w30 HM conventional.

Personally, I'm going to switch my slightly leaking/dripping Buick from 5w30 HM Maxlife Synthetic to 5w30 HM Maxlife Blend. I'm confident that Blend will reduce my drip, but don't know if it'll completely stop it.

Why don't I just switch my car directly to 5w30 Oreilly HM Conventional? Because a Blend oil lubricates better than Conv. However, realistically that shouldn't a concern for my car. Still, I want the best lubrication I can have without leaking.

After changing to one of ^ those oils... It might take some time and 300-500 miles for your engine to stop leaking. If it still leaks after 500 miles, then you need to do more.

If none of the above oils stop the leak, then I'd try adding Blue Devil Oil Stop Leak, or some other good brand of oil stop leak. Other people can recommend other good stop leak products too.

Warning... Not all brands of oil stop leak products are good. For examples of ones to avoid... I would avoid Lucas and STP oil conditioners and/or stop leak products.

Blue Devil Oil Stop Leak should stop a minor leak within 300-500 miles. If it's still leaking after 500, then it's not going to stop the leak.

If it still leaks after trying the above things... Then you need to locate the leak and replace seal(s) or oring(s) on whatever is leaking.

 

[dm1961]

It seems to be leaking from the timing chain cover. I don't want to spend around a grand on that. It sounds like kind of a big deal.

I did have the valve cover gaskets and front crankshaft seal replaced a few years ago. I also tried Liqui Moly Oil Saver.

 

[dnewton3]

I've got a 2006 Ford Escape with the 3.0 EcoBoost engine.

I don't believe this to be correct. in 2006 the 3.0L was the Duratec engine (DOHC n/a, PFI); not the EB (TT, GDI).

And no, conventional oil is unlikely to stop the leaking. You're already using a HM oil; those typically have a bit more chemistry geared towards seal swelling agents.

 

[Carlostrece]

It seems to be leaking from the timing chain cover. I don't want to spend around a grand on that. It sounds like kind of a big deal.

I did have the valve cover gaskets and front crankshaft seal replaced a few years ago. I also tried Liqui Moly Oil Saver.

I don't know if Liqui Moly Oil Saver is a good product or not. I don't know anything about Liqui Moly.

You don't want Liqui Moly and Blue Devil both in there at the same time because it's unknown how they'd interact. I wouldn't mix 2 different brands of oil additives.

So if you currently have Liqui Moly oil additive in the engine, you'd need to change your oil before trying Blue Devil or any other stop leak additive.

 

[Furious]

All "conventional" oil is a synthetic blend now days read the back of the bottle you will see the ratings. You will not notice a difference switching oils if it is still leaking with a high mileage oil.

If you are wanting to take a gamble with a stop leak AT-205 Reseal is a very popular one with a lot of success you can check out reviews, videos, etc to make your decision.

Me personally if it isn't needing any top up between oil changes and frequent checking I would just stick to high mileage and run it until able to repair the leak.

 

[csandste]

As furious said, no such thing as conventional oil anymore, at least SP 5w20. It may be on the oil change price list at a dealer, it may even say so on the bottle but it has to be a blend to meet specs with the possible exception of Mobil Group 2-2+ EHC base stocks.

 

[dm1961]

I don't know if Liqui Moly Oil Saver is a good product or not. I don't know anything about Liqui Moly.

You don't want Liqui Moly and Blue Devil both in there at the same time because it's unknown how they'd interact. I wouldn't mix 2 different brands of oil additives.

So if you currently have Liqui Moly oil additive in the engine, you'd need to change your oil before trying Blue Devil or any other stop leak additive.

I tried that a while ago. It seemed to slow the leak down, but not stop it. That was a couple of oil changes ago. I may try something else a couple of thousand miles before the next change.

 

[dm1961]

I don't believe this to be correct. in 2006 the 3.0L was the Duratec engine (DOHC n/a, PFI); not the EB (TT, GDI).

And no, conventional oil is unlikely to stop the leaking. You're already using a HM oil; those typically have a bit more chemistry geared towards seal swelling agents.

You are correct about the Duratec. I was working from memory, That's a problem for me.