Should I go synthetic, or not?

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I will go so far as to admit that I'm still intrigued with using synthetics, but I'm worried about switching over just yet. I have a 95 Chev Lumina and 2000 Dodge Gr Caravan. The Lumina has weaping seals, nothing really drips on the ground, and my Dodge Caravan has seapage around the oil pan gasket, nothing on this veh drips on the ground either. OH, and the Lumina has 123k and the Dodge has 65k. In either of these vehicls, given what I described to you, do you see a problem with switching to synthetc? I just worried that I'll make something worse than in already is...
 
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OCI of 5K or less or normal driving conditions or non-arctic climate = dino. Extended OCI or extreme driving conditions or arctic climate = synthetic. That's probably too general, but a rule of thumb I like to use. One thing I've learned here is that I was putting too much thought into oil choice. Even some of the cheap dinos have showed well in UOA's. Taking care of your other basic maintenence and cooling system is probably more important than what oil you use.
 

SSQ

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Try the synthetic Maxlife if you really want to go synthetic. Should be more seal friendly and it's synthetic at the same time.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by madmax420: Syns. have little seal swelling agents, it will find more places to leak. Stick w/quality dino oils. better and cheaper.
Can you verify this statement by supplying us with the percetages of "seal swelling agents" for all synthetics and also for all conventional oils?
 
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Keep using dino so you can afford to fix the leaks and near leaks you fear so if you wanted to go syn you wouldn't be writing I fear my seeping will get worse.
 
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I've read that switching to synthetic on older engines (especially ones that are already starting to leak) will accelerate the leakage. If either of them consume a considerable amount of oil, catalytic converters also don't take kindly to synthetic oils. As for general engine harm, you're fine.
 
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What are you trying to gain by running a synthetic? Are you interested in extended oil drain intervals? If not, then I'd probably just stick with a name-brand conventional oil in those two vehicles.
 

grbr95

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AnyH, Yeah, you sort of answered my question. I really don't want to extend my OCI. I guess I'm all caught up with this thing about using HM oils, and how others have told me that using a synthetic is better than HM because it has additivdes that will help your seals. I'm not a big fan of HM in that they don't have the energy conserving seal and my engines run perfect, so I don't think I need a thicker oil in them.
 
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I'd have to agree with Andy... I think you may be opening up a can of worms by attempting to switch to synthetic at this point.
 
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My 2 cents is not to run syn unless your trying to do very extended OCI's, or if your engine is very high performance with so very hot operating temps. So in your case no, but its your vehicals.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by mikemc: OCI of 5K or less or normal driving conditions or non-arctic climate = dino. Extended OCI or extreme driving conditions or arctic climate = synthetic. That's probably too general, but a rule of thumb I like to use. One thing I've learned here is that I was putting too much thought into oil choice. Even some of the cheap dinos have showed well in UOA's. Taking care of your other basic maintenence and cooling system is probably more important than what oil you use.
\\ [Cheers!]
 
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My experience has been that putting full synthetic in an older, high mileage vehicle with weeping seals will result in leakage. However, the use of Pennzoil HM 10W-30 in my '90 Volvo 244 (185K) actually cleared up a weeping rear main seal. Auto RX is also worth a try; took care of a small P/S rack seal leak for me.
 
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quote:
Originally posted by CBDFrontier06: catalytic converters also don't take kindly to synthetic oils.
Could you explain ?
 
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I wouldn't do it. I changed to syn on an 85 Civic and it started leaking. Then I went back and alls fine now. Don't fix it unless it's broke. Lukey
 
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SSQ states: "Try the synthetic Maxlife if you really want to go synthetic. Should be more seal friendly and it's synthetic at the same time." This advice is the best I read for your situation. Do 6 month OCI's and reap the benefits of a good Group III synthetic oil.
 
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Sep 18, 2003
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I'd try some HM oil first. If you have the bug to go synthetic, then the Maxlife Syn would be a great choice.
 
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