Shock Nut Socket - How Hard To Make One?

[BHopkins]

Does anyone have experience with using a bench grinder to create a custom tool out of a socket? I'm putting new shocks on my E350, and I've found that a special tool is needed to tighten the piston rod to a damper. The special tool is a 17 mm deep well socket, with the side wall cut out in the middle, in somewhat of a similar fashion to a O2 sensor socket. I have found one from Schwaben, a German tool manufacturer, but I don't think it will be available locally. They look like this:

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-schwaben-parts/shock-nut-socket-17mm/03046sch01a-07/

The window allows for an Allen wrench to be inserted into the top of the piston rod, to hold it in place while the nut is tightened.

I have no problem ordering one, but I'm a little (ok, a lot) on the impatient side, and would like to get the job done. So I'm considering picking up a socket and seeing if I can grind a window out of it, using a bench grinder and an angle grinder. Is this feasible? I'd love to hear from anyone that has ever attempted something like this.

 

[Creekside]

I was going to suggest getting a standard socket and having a machine shop mill the side out of it but that is going to far exceed the cost of that socket. If you plan to keep the car I would just order the right tool.

 

[D60]

I've had a lot of luck w any of the new sockets with a hex on the end. Milwaukee and some AP's come to mind. Drop a long(er) hex thru the square drive and turn the hex with a ratcheting wrench.

I had to do this on struts recently (after spring was compressed of course)

Failing all this some vise grips clamped on a socket or a nut tack welded to a socket might yield similar results

edit: also any of the pass-thru socket sets are a contender. They use a proprietary spline drive to turn the OD of sockets rather than a square drive in the center. There's 2 or 3 styles sold under a dozen different names

 

[BHopkins]

I was going to suggest getting a standard socket and having a machine shop mill the side out of it but that is going to far exceed the cost of that socket. If you plan to keep the car I would just order the right tool.

There are a couple fabrication shops in town, and at least one of them has a very reasonable labor rate. I also considered having them cut out the window on a mill, and came to the same conclusion, that it could likely cost as much as 1 day delivery of the Schwaben tool.

 

[BHopkins]

I've had a lot of luck w any of the new sockets with a hex on the end. Milwaukee and some AP's come to mind. Drop a long(er) hex thru the square drive and turn the hex with a ratcheting wrench.

I had to do this on struts recently (after spring was compressed of course)

Failing all this some vise grips clamped on a socket or a nut tack welded to a socket might yield similar results

edit: also any of the pass-thru socket sets are a contender. They use a proprietary spline drive to turn the OD of sockets rather than a square drive in the center. There's 2 or 3 styles sold under a dozen different names

One idea I considered, in this same line of thinking is seeing if I could find a 17mm socket with hex on the end, similar to many spark plug sockets. Then I could hold the socket while turning the piston with a long Allen wrench drive. That would even allow me to tighten the nut to the proper torque.

I'll find out tomorrow if a socket of this style is available in town, but just looking on Autozone and O'Reilly websites, I couldn't see a socket like that.

 

[Soft Cars]

Would something like this work? Nevermind the price.

 

[BHopkins]

Would something like this work? Nevermind the price.

Yes. That would work great. The nut only has to be torqued to 21 lb*ft, so I suspect that would be strong enough. But I can get the Schwaben socket for less than a third of that, even with shipping. Of course the Schwaben isn't near as pretty as the Snap-on.

I would be tempted to get the Snap-on, if it was on the truck, and the truck was in town tomorrow. Not likely, though.

 

[D60]

One idea I considered, in this same line of thinking is seeing if I could find a 17mm socket with hex on the end, similar to many spark plug sockets. Then I could hold the socket while turning the piston with a long Allen wrench drive. That would even allow me to tighten the nut to the proper torque.

I'll find out tomorrow if a socket of this style is available in town, but just looking on Autozone and O'Reilly websites, I couldn't see a socket like that.

That's exactly what I was saying but wasn't clear.

I was wrong - Milwaukees are square. So grind a couple flats on a cheap 17mm

 

[D60]

Also if you're near a HF:

SAE & Metric Go-Thru Socket Set, 21-Piece

Amazing deals on this 21Pc Sae/Metric Go-Thru Socket Set at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

 

[Yourhomiematt]

I frequently use a similar gearwrench brand set but I figured I'd recommend this as it's 1/4 the cost

 

[Yourhomiematt]

Also if you're near a HF:

https://www.harborfreight.com/sae-metric-go-thru-socket-set-21-piece-62305.htm

Beat me to it

 

[D60]

HD claims to have a spline drive pass thru also, says the 11/16" works for 17mm

Crescent 3/8 in. Drive Pass-Thru Adjustable Wrench Set (11-Piece) CPTAW8 - The Home Depot

The Crescent Pass-Thru Adjustable Wrench Set provides the benefits of 3 tools in 1 product. It includes a standard adjustable wrench with a maximum 1-1/8 in. jaw capacity, but the jaw on the wrench head

www.homedepot.com

 

[D60]

AZ also:

https://www.autozone.com/ratchets-sockets-and-wrenches/ratchet-and-socket-set/p/duralast-3-8in-drive-pass-through-ratchet-socket-sae-metric-tool-set-20-piece/569724_0_0?searchText=61-105

 

[BHopkins]

@D60, I recall seeing those new Milwaukee sockets. That would do the trick.

I like idea of using the HF sockets that @D60 and @Yourhomiematt mentioned. If I can't find a socket with hexes on the end, I may make a run to the nearest HF for that set.

My only concern about using this method, would be that if I torque on the extended Allen socket, I have to torque in the ccw direction. Everything I have read strongly recommends using a clicker style torque wrench in only one direction.

I'm not too crazy about spline sockets, so that would be my last choice.

Thanks, guys. These are some good ideas.

 

[D60]

I've never been thrilled with spline sockets either, esp when manufacturers try to make them cover multiple sizes that aren't within a few thousandths of each other

 

[RyanY]

I have always used crowfoot wrenches for these types of applications.

 

[RooflessVW]

May I humbly suggest zapping the nuts with an impact?

 

[D60]

May I humbly suggest zapping the nuts with an impact?

This would be my approach, too, but he seems concerned with torque. It doesn't always work, either -- sometimes the rod just spins on the old or new or both

 

[D60]

{snip}
My only concern about using this method, would be that if I torque on the extended Allen socket, I have to torque in the ccw direction. Everything I have read strongly recommends using a clicker style torque wrench in only one direction.

On AZ's website I can find a 1/2" and 1/4" beam TW. Of course I think 3/8 would be ideal for your desired 21 ft lbs. Still, poke around AZ and O'Reilly. I also thought my HD used to have a beam on the floor but I didn't have much luck on their website

https://www.autozone.com/wrenches-pliers-and-cutters/torque-wrench/p/oemtools-1-2in-drive-torque-wrench/914019_0_0?searchText=79-140

Also, are digital adapters good for either direction? I honestly don't know. But the 3/8" at HF is $40

 

[RooflessVW]

This would be my approach, too, but he seems concerned with torque. It doesn't always work, either -- sometimes the rod just spins on the old or new or both

I mean I like to torque my stuff too, probably more than most.

But I feel like this is a thread about how to use the wrong tool for the job due to impatience and/or poor planning.

So you may as well use the easiest wrong tool and hold the strut shaft with some soft jaw pliers and zip the nut down.