She’ll T6 15W-40 vs Amsoil 15W-40 SigSeries Max Duty

Flat tappet engines only require high ZDDP levels during break-in or if you have very high spring pressures.

What does the manual say is a required ZDDP level?
absolutely nothing. on the zinc question i learned that from this forum. I think I just wrote that sentence badly lol
 
I found some more technical data but between amsoil's max duty and their heavy duty. It seems the max duty has 4.5 HTHS and 5.1 NOACK vs heavy duty which is 4.7 HTHS and 3.6 NOACK. Why does the more expensive oil have (worse?) numbers? heavy duty is only $6 more than rotella and probably a lot better
 
I think it was reduced or I may be wrong. I know m1 fs has enough zinc though, jut not cold enough to use it.
Btw one oil change without filter for my car with t6 is $50. Amsoil will be 80+…..

All of the oils recommended by these members (in two different threads) have more than enough zinc for your engine.

Go pick up a jug of Edge 0W40 and motor on.
 
I’m not saying you are wrong but I asked two specialist mechanic and they said not to go different from the Manual. Zinc content based on flat tappets.
If the “mechanic” you asked think that a SOHC Mercedes M116 has “flat tappets“, you need to find a new mechanic.

“Flat tappets” exist in OHV engines, not yours. The cam followers in this engine aren’t known for high wear.

Get a decent MB 229.5 oil and stop listening to bozos.

If you’re worried about your engine, replace the timing chain, gears and guides. All the guides. That’s where the wear happens in these.

While you’re in there, replace the camshaft oil tubes and their nylon fittings. That’s where your risk is.

Zinc won’t help if the oiling goes bad or the engine jumps time from worn guides.
 
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I've actually owned that exact year and model Mercedes. Great road car and I liked it a lot. But I did like the engine in my 85 300SD a little better, ran Rotella 5w-40 HDEO in that. But for the 420SEL I'm going to cast another vote for neither HDEO. I owned mine when I lived in New Mexico and North Texas, in the 100's in the summer easy. Used multiple brands, Castrol, Mobil, MB oil, but all 0/5w-40 MB approved oils and it ran great. Wife got it in the divorce with over 140k miles on it.

As others have stated above, for euro vehicles it's the spec that matters. The HDEO would probably be "OK", but would not be the best choice. Any MB 229.5 oil will work great with your intended usage. In the end it's the whole package that matters, not just HTHS, Zinc, or Moly, etc. If you're hooked on Amsoil they happen to make a good 5w-40 FS Euro oil that has that approval and is decently priced for a Boutique oil. Otherwise a euro oil from Castrol, Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc will serve you well.
 
Be grateful that you have a W126.

On the R107, the engine has to be removed to replace the guides.

You‘ll need a guide pin removal tool.

But seriously, no oil will fix your guides or chain.

A good 229.5 oil is all you need, for now.
 
If the “mechanic” you asked think that a SOHC Mercedes M116 has “flat tappets“, you need to find a new mechanic.

“Flat tappets” exist in OHV engines, not yours. The cam followers in this engine aren’t known for high wear.

Get a decent MB 229.5 oil and stop listening to bozos.

If you’re worried about your engine, replace the timing chain, gears and guides. All the guides. That’s where the wear happens in these.

While you’re in there, replace the camshaft oil tubes and their nylon fittings. That’s where your risk is.

Zinc won’t help if the oiling goes bad or the engine jumps time from worn guides.
Yes. All that work plus so much more was done in 2020. That’s very good advice though because most people who own these cars don’t know that needs replacing until the engine blows up. The mechanic said nothing about zinc he only said “not to use 0w or 5W oils” I’m not saying he is right just letting you know the claims. The tappet I learned from Mercedes’ forums and they referred me to this one too lol
 
I've actually owned that exact year and model Mercedes. Great road car and I liked it a lot. But I did like the engine in my 85 300SD a little better, ran Rotella 5w-40 HDEO in that. But for the 420SEL I'm going to cast another vote for neither HDEO. I owned mine when I lived in New Mexico and North Texas, in the 100's in the summer easy. Used multiple brands, Castrol, Mobil, MB oil, but all 0/5w-40 MB approved oils and it ran great. Wife got it in the divorce with over 140k miles on it.

As others have stated above, for euro vehicles it's the spec that matters. The HDEO would probably be "OK", but would not be the best choice. Any MB 229.5 oil will work great with your intended usage. In the end it's the whole package that matters, not just HTHS, Zinc, or Moly, etc. If you're hooked on Amsoil they happen to make a good 5w-40 FS Euro oil that has that approval and is decently priced for a Boutique oil. Otherwise a euro oil from Castrol, Mobil 1, Valvoline, etc will serve you well.
Thank you for the advice. Yes I love this car and it’s a shame you lost it in the divorce. That’s why they recommend pre and post nuptial agreements LOL. I did look into a 300SD early 2020 before the virus, 145k miles and only $3k was in very good condition. I always preferred the gassers but the diesels will always be less maintenance. My grandparents had a 560sel when I was younger but they sold before I was 16 and my goal was to get either a 420 or 560 and I certainly like it. But amount of fuel related issues is huge. Still working out a hunting idle and it dies sometimes on cold start or king crank. Used to have long warm crank but that mysteriously went away.
 
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Yes. All that work plus so much more was done in 2020. That’s very good advice though because most people who own these cars don’t know that needs replacing until the engine blows up. The mechanic said nothing about zinc he only said “not to use 0w or 5W oils” I’m not saying he is right just letting you know the claims. The tappet I learned from Mercedes’ forums and they referred me to this one too lol
0w and 5w are fine even if unnecessary for your starting temps, the concerns about 0w and 5w oil is probably a worry about staying in grade, which isn't really a major issue with modern oils, especially Euro spec oils which are required to stay in grade to get that certification.
 
0w and 5w are fine even if unnecessary for your starting temps, the concerns about 0w and 5w oil is probably a worry about staying in grade, which isn't really a major issue with modern oils, especially Euro spec oils which are required to stay in grade to get that certification.
yeah. and i love your quote lol!
 
If the “mechanic” you asked think that a SOHC Mercedes M116 has “flat tappets“, you need to find a new mechanic.

“Flat tappets” exist in OHV engines, not yours. The cam followers in this engine aren’t known for high wear.

Not quite. Any time a cam lobe directly actuates a flat shim or flat bucket it's technically flat tappet design.
Flat tappet is not a cam-in-block exclusive term.
 
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