It looks good. The lip will sink deeper on the spring as it compresses.
Try and grab as much of the spring as possible.
Try and grab as much of the spring as possible.
Safety check - spring compression
- Thread starter JHZR2
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Originally Posted By: Dan55
The spring compressor you have is high quality, the hooks are well formed. Heres a photo of the safety hooks , they are basically muffler clamps. http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/pr...136e95/p254.jpg
Yes i do the same thing with a small piece of chain and a bolt with washers. I like the clamp idea.
The spring compressor you have is high quality, the hooks are well formed. Heres a photo of the safety hooks , they are basically muffler clamps. http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/pr...136e95/p254.jpg
Yes i do the same thing with a small piece of chain and a bolt with washers. I like the clamp idea.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Trav
Originally Posted By: Dan55
The spring compressor you have is high quality, the hooks are well formed. Heres a photo of the safety hooks , they are basically muffler clamps. http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/pr...136e95/p254.jpg
Yes i do the same thing with a small piece of chain and a bolt with washers. I like the clamp idea.
I bought some at HD. Wanted something heavier with a 3000 lb working capacity (I figure that's like 3x of the compressed spring force), but I ended up getting something almost identical to the Eastwood thing. For $4.50 or so its good insurance I guess...
Originally Posted By: Dan55
The spring compressor you have is high quality, the hooks are well formed. Heres a photo of the safety hooks , they are basically muffler clamps. http://www.eastwood.com/media/catalog/pr...136e95/p254.jpg
Yes i do the same thing with a small piece of chain and a bolt with washers. I like the clamp idea.
I bought some at HD. Wanted something heavier with a 3000 lb working capacity (I figure that's like 3x of the compressed spring force), but I ended up getting something almost identical to the Eastwood thing. For $4.50 or so its good insurance I guess...
Good idea!
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Trav
Try and grab as much of the spring as possible.
I started with a little bit of an unequal grab, just because it was easier to get it on. But I adjusted to grab an extra half coil or so.
To some extent Id almost thing it would be safer to grab as LITTLE of the spring as possible, so that the fewest coils are under compression when you get working on it. I suppose it means that they would have to be compressed more (conservation of energy), but less likely to bow to one side or the other, which I assume is the fear.
Maybe Im wrong...
Try and grab as much of the spring as possible.
I started with a little bit of an unequal grab, just because it was easier to get it on. But I adjusted to grab an extra half coil or so.
To some extent Id almost thing it would be safer to grab as LITTLE of the spring as possible, so that the fewest coils are under compression when you get working on it. I suppose it means that they would have to be compressed more (conservation of energy), but less likely to bow to one side or the other, which I assume is the fear.
Maybe Im wrong...
You have to reduce the spring height x inches to do the required work. Those x inches all need to come from the length of spring that your compressor grabs. The more length of spring you grab, the more length of spring the compression is distributed through. If you grab three coils and have to push it 2.5 inches shorter that takes a lot less force than grabbing two coils and making those 2 coils 2.5 inches shorter.
I used the cheap set of spring compressors from harbor freight. You just need to slowly alternate turns between each side. The spring will not evenly compress, lets face it they are the cheaper tools compared to what the pros use.
Just be careful and take your time. I used a ratchet since most posts on the web said an impact gun would screw up the threaded rods since they are not heavy duty.
Regards, JC.
Just be careful and take your time. I used a ratchet since most posts on the web said an impact gun would screw up the threaded rods since they are not heavy duty.
Regards, JC.
RESPECT the energy stored in that spring. It is way more than enough to bust up your hand, arm, or any other body part that happens to be in the way if things go wrong. It is no joke, a spring under compression is powerful and dangerous. Think about the energy of a 357 bullet, and then think about the energy of the metal of that spring and how it can move fast enough to bust up anything in its way. BTW, the spring probably has way more energy than a 357 round.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: JC1
I The spring will not evenly compress, lets face it they are the cheaper tools compared to what the pros use.
Well that's why I spent the money on a forged Klann unit, because it is. Of course you can kill yourself with pro tools just as easily as with junk, but I spent the money because this is a better unit than OEM brand stuff or HF.
I The spring will not evenly compress, lets face it they are the cheaper tools compared to what the pros use.
Well that's why I spent the money on a forged Klann unit, because it is. Of course you can kill yourself with pro tools just as easily as with junk, but I spent the money because this is a better unit than OEM brand stuff or HF.
There is energy in the spring, but if he's only compressing the spring enough to get the old strut off and installed into the new strut then it doesn't need to be fully compressed.
When I did mine I think they only needed 2-3 inches of compression to be reinstalled.
Regards, JC.
When I did mine I think they only needed 2-3 inches of compression to be reinstalled.
Regards, JC.
What purpose does the U bolt provide?
Does it just hold the clamps in place better? It's hard to imagine them moving while under compression.
Does it provide safety in case something lets loose? How would they help in that case?
Last time I did struts, I wore a flip down face mask and safety glasses. I looked funny, but felt better, LOL. Didn't want to risk the chance in case someone offered me a modeling career.
Does it just hold the clamps in place better? It's hard to imagine them moving while under compression.
Does it provide safety in case something lets loose? How would they help in that case?
Last time I did struts, I wore a flip down face mask and safety glasses. I looked funny, but felt better, LOL. Didn't want to risk the chance in case someone offered me a modeling career.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: JC1
There is energy in the spring, but if he's only compressing the spring enough to get the old strut off and installed into the new strut then it doesn't need to be fully compressed.
When I did mine I think they only needed 2-3 inches of compression to be reinstalled.
Regards, JC.
Sure, its not the full compressive force. Still its at least 1000 lbs considering that its a 3500 lb car.
There is energy in the spring, but if he's only compressing the spring enough to get the old strut off and installed into the new strut then it doesn't need to be fully compressed.
When I did mine I think they only needed 2-3 inches of compression to be reinstalled.
Regards, JC.
Sure, its not the full compressive force. Still its at least 1000 lbs considering that its a 3500 lb car.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: doitmyself
What purpose does the U bolt provide?
Does it just hold the clamps in place better? It's hard to imagine them moving while under compression.
Does it provide safety in case something lets loose? How would they help in that case?
Last time I did struts, I wore a flip down face mask and safety glasses. I looked funny, but felt better, LOL. Didn't want to risk the chance in case someone offered me a modeling career.
Im not sure that ppe would cut it in a full frontal release. Still smart to wear.
The issues Ive heard have generally been about one compressor swinging around causing the spring to bow out the opposite way. My compressor cant do that as its profiled and has more surface area. Other ones with smaller and flat contact area may be more prone. THE OEM brand model has a pin to help hold the spring. These are IMO designed better. Still, if something can help add another dimension of containment, and is like $10 to add, why not, no?
What purpose does the U bolt provide?
Does it just hold the clamps in place better? It's hard to imagine them moving while under compression.
Does it provide safety in case something lets loose? How would they help in that case?
Last time I did struts, I wore a flip down face mask and safety glasses. I looked funny, but felt better, LOL. Didn't want to risk the chance in case someone offered me a modeling career.
Im not sure that ppe would cut it in a full frontal release. Still smart to wear.
The issues Ive heard have generally been about one compressor swinging around causing the spring to bow out the opposite way. My compressor cant do that as its profiled and has more surface area. Other ones with smaller and flat contact area may be more prone. THE OEM brand model has a pin to help hold the spring. These are IMO designed better. Still, if something can help add another dimension of containment, and is like $10 to add, why not, no?
I'm just curious why the OP didn't just use a quick strut which comes with both the spring and the strut. It's a little bit more money, but less in labor and it'd be safer too. Plus springs eventually wear out too so you might end up doing the job twice.
Originally Posted By: Wolf359
I'm just curious why the OP didn't just use a quick strut which comes with both the spring and the strut. It's a little bit more money, but less in labor and it'd be safer too. Plus springs eventually wear out too so you might end up doing the job twice.
I can't speak for the op, but quickstruts are not available for all cars, and with all makes of struts. I believe if i remember the op wanted to use bilstein struts on the car.
I'm just curious why the OP didn't just use a quick strut which comes with both the spring and the strut. It's a little bit more money, but less in labor and it'd be safer too. Plus springs eventually wear out too so you might end up doing the job twice.
I can't speak for the op, but quickstruts are not available for all cars, and with all makes of struts. I believe if i remember the op wanted to use bilstein struts on the car.
JHZR2
Staff member
Yeah, my springs are just fine, and my springs are specifically specified for my car. So why would I want to put a generic spring rate and strut on my car?
Bilstein doesnt make them... Nor does Saab. Maybe Koni has some pre-built thing, but why would I want to?
Bilstein doesnt make them... Nor does Saab. Maybe Koni has some pre-built thing, but why would I want to?
I would invest in a safer spring compression tool then if you don't want to use quickstruts.
His compressor covers more spring than mine, the worst one i've used is the autozone rental. It has pins but grips little of the spring and i had it slip during use. I have these.
JHZR2
Staff member
Originally Posted By: Cubey
I would invest in a safer spring compression tool then if you don't want to use quickstruts.
The Klann is top of the line, best one can get in that form of spring compression. Im not interested in a $3000 strut vice, there is no ROI for me to do that.
But I bought the top notch tool that I could get of a style that is convenient and straightforward to use, and compact to pack.
I would invest in a safer spring compression tool then if you don't want to use quickstruts.
The Klann is top of the line, best one can get in that form of spring compression. Im not interested in a $3000 strut vice, there is no ROI for me to do that.
But I bought the top notch tool that I could get of a style that is convenient and straightforward to use, and compact to pack.
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