Royal Purple

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Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
That wasn't what he asked.

I do see your point and I have no problem with PP,PU, Edge, MC, Quaker State Ultimate Durability Synpower.. all are good oils in my opinion.

I think my engine would be laying on the side of the road using M1 like I used to.. shoot. my Iron was 76PPM [censored] is up with that... RP averages 6-9ppm under the same conditions

GOOD LORD, WHY WAS IT 11 TIMES HIGHER? I don't think my motor could have taken 76ppm wear for long....


Doug had 100+ PPM used oil analysis for 1.2 million Km's........ Yes, the drain intervals were significantly longer, but hopefully you see my point.

Without trending, you just have one (or two) data point(s) that, like many, you freaked out about. The oil used doesn't matter, it is the improper use of used oil analysis that's the issue here.

Did you ever pull the valve cover and check for anything abnormal?
 
I'm glad somebody chimed in about how to interpret used oil analysis! Go over to the diesel UOA section and see Fe wear metals up to 100+. Not a problem. I have seen used oil analysis from OEM durability tests at 120 or above for thousands of operating hours, and the engines don't give up.
 
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I'm glad somebody chimed in about how to interpret used oil analysis! Go over to the diesel used oil analysis section and see Fe wear metals up to 100+. Not a problem. I have seen used oil analysis from OEM durability tests at 120 or above for thousands of operating hours, and the engines don't give up.


Yup. Many on BITOG feel they can leverage a used oil analysis in this manner:

scrambled-toast-crystal-ball.jpg


"this oil has 5 more ppm of iron then my last oil! Crystal ball says my cams are breaking apart!"
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I'm glad somebody chimed in about how to interpret used oil analysis! Go over to the diesel used oil analysis section and see Fe wear metals up to 100+. Not a problem. I have seen used oil analysis from OEM durability tests at 120 or above for thousands of operating hours, and the engines don't give up.


Yup. Many on BITOG feel they can leverage a used oil analysis in this manner:

crystalBall1.jpg


Looks like some of the ladies we have in Nawlins,La.
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I'm glad somebody chimed in about how to interpret used oil analysis! Go over to the diesel used oil analysis section and see Fe wear metals up to 100+. Not a problem. I have seen used oil analysis from OEM durability tests at 120 or above for thousands of operating hours, and the engines don't give up.


Yup. Many on BITOG feel they can leverage a used oil analysis in this manner:

crystalBall1.jpg


Looks like some of the ladies we have in Nawlins,La.




I know right?
 
Ryan at Blackstone has said that people get way too worked up over a few PPM of a wear metal. There are countless engines with "high" wear metal counts that run out to 300k and beyond.
 
Originally Posted By: OVERK1LL
Originally Posted By: A_Harman
I'm glad somebody chimed in about how to interpret used oil analysis! Go over to the diesel used oil analysis section and see Fe wear metals up to 100+. Not a problem. I have seen used oil analysis from OEM durability tests at 120 or above for thousands of operating hours, and the engines don't give up.


Yup. Many on BITOG feel they can leverage a used oil analysis in this manner:

scrambled-toast-crystal-ball.jpg


"this oil has 5 more ppm of iron then my last oil! Crystal ball says my cams are breaking apart!"


crackmeup2.gif


That's a keeper.
 
Actually Amsoil is not all PAO according to Pablo. All oils are a blend,as far as I know, of this and that, making a better base stock.
 
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/43142/maintenance-tips/zero-weight-oils-new-vehicles/

Using the term "zero weight" to describe a 0w-xx oil is a strike against the company in my book.

Can you elaborate on this statement?

I'm going to guess because oils aren't classified in "weights". They are grades.
Originally Posted By: tig1
Actually Amsoil is not all PAO according to Pablo. All oils are a blend of this and that, making a better base stock.

I think tig has a point.
Apparently the additive package will not "dissolve" in a pure pao and needs either ester or group 3 to properly disperse. I may not be explaining it correctly.
Co-op supplies a diesel oil that states it's 100% pao and is a 0w-40 flavour. It's a diesel Hdeo. I think there was a thread on it started by rice cake somewhere here. I looked it up on their website. On paper it looked ok but I've never seen an analysis
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
That wasn't what he asked.

I do see your point and I have no problem with PP,PU, Edge, MC, Quaker State Ultimate Durability Synpower.. all are good oils in my opinion.

I think my engine would be laying on the side of the road using M1 like I used to.. shoot. my Iron was 76PPM [censored] is up with that... RP averages 6-9ppm under the same conditions

GOOD LORD, WHY WAS IT 11 TIMES HIGHER? I don't think my motor could have taken 76ppm wear for long....


Actually M1 lubed engines are well known for being clean, long lasting, all with long OCIs. Your experience seems to be a one off deal. Sorry, but my 35 yeras of M1 use has been the opposite of yours.
 
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Is RP a true synthetic oil,like AMSOIL and RED LINE? And,is it priced so high because it is a true synthetic or are you just paying for the purple dye in it? How does it compare to AMSOIL and RED LINE? Would you buy it before any other synthetic oil?


18.gif
Please don't think this.


RP is Grp IV/V basestock. Very good stuff. Have run RP since 1990. It is always my 1st choice for oil( and for any other product they sell )be it for my vehicle, boat motor, lawn equipment, generator, etc...

IMO it is in the same class as Amsoil and Redline( I throw Schaeffers in there too ). Won't say it is better. Just as good as however in general quality terms.
 
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Originally Posted By: dparm
What it must feel like to admit to running RP on this website:


job-letter.gif



DUDE! That is hillarious and so true!
crackmeup2.gif
 
Originally Posted By: NHHEMI
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Is RP a true synthetic oil,like AMSOIL and RED LINE? And,is it priced so high because it is a true synthetic or are you just paying for the purple dye in it? How does it compare to AMSOIL and RED LINE? Would you buy it before any other synthetic oil?


18.gif
Please don't think this.


RP is Grp IV/V basestock. Very good stuff. Have run RP since 1990. It is always my 1st choice for oil( and for any other product they sell )be it for my vehicle, boat motor, lawn equipment, generator, etc...

IMO it is in the same class as Amsoil and Redline( I throw Schaeffers in there too ). Won't say it is better. Just as good as however in general quality terms.



I emailed RP a couple months ago. check this post out.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/ubbthreads.php?ubb=showflat&Number=2779357&page=1
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
http://royalpurpleconsumer.com/43142/maintenance-tips/zero-weight-oils-new-vehicles/

Using the term "zero weight" to describe a 0w-xx oil is a strike against the company in my book.

Can you elaborate on this statement?

The W in 0w-20 or 0w30 doesn't stand for "weight." It's just a W.

0w-20 means that the oil meets 0w pumpability specs when cold, and SAE 20 kinematic viscosity specs when warm.

10w-30 means that the oil meets 10w pumpability specs when cold, and SAE 30 kinematic viscosity specs when warm.

Etc.

Calling a 0w-xx oil a "zero weight" is like telling someone with a stickshift car to "put it in park." If you heard that from some random Joe, you'd probably think nothing of it. If you heard it from an engineer, you'd probably wonder what he was smoking.

Now, if we were talking about an oil with a viscosity grade of SAE 0, then we could call that a "0-weight." Oils like that do exist, but... let's just say they're not the kind of thing you want to put in your car if you expect it to last.
wink.gif
 
Right, but you can refer to 0W-20, 0W-30, 0W-40 and 0w50 as 0W oils. And the same goes for 5W, 10W, 15W and 20W oils. Formulators often due since the base oils used to formulate 0W oils have a limited molecular weight. Same goes for 5W oils which as a group are made from heavier base oils than 0W oils etc. The final number of an SAE grade with multi-grade oils is largely determined by the VMs and VIIs used in the finished oil.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
The W in 0w-20 or 0w30 doesn't stand for "weight." It's just a W.


That may be true, and I'm a proponent of precision in language. However, all oil company websites are filled with marketing fluff, so a little imprecision in explaining why 0w-XX oils are available is forgivable.

In fairness (and I'm a SOPUS user generally), it's far better than preventing "98% of future wear."
 
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