Royal Purple

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Is RP a true synthetic oil,like AMSOIL and RED LINE? And,is it priced so high because it is a true synthetic or are you just paying for the purple dye in it? How does it compare to AMSOIL and RED LINE? Would you buy it before any other synthetic oil?


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Please don't think this.
 
Yes, It is a G IV synthetic--IE a REAL synthetic.. not some GIII that we are being brainwashed to believe is synthetic. It is a excellent oil. Hemi is a user as well.. I'm sure he will comment. I have several used oil analysis that are good. Someone posted a wear chart in PPM/1k miles and Amsoil, Redline and RP were the top performers. Yes, For years it was all I used after a major iron spike using m1 that lead me to think my motor was going to have a failure.. I have GC in the sump at the moment but still have 35 qts of RP bought on sale..
 
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Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
Yes, It is a G IV synthetic--IE a REAL synthetic.. not some GIII that we are being brainwashed to believe is synthetic. It is a excellent oil. Hemi is a user as well.. I'm sure he will comment. I have several used oil analysis that are good. Someone posted a wear chart in PPM/1k miles and Amsoil, Redline and RP were the top performers. Yes, For years it was all I used after a major iron spike using m1 that lead me to think my motor was going to have a failure.. I have GC in the sump at the moment but still have 35 qts of RP bought on sale..

Right and how many engines are you seeing laying on the side of the road because they used "fake" syns.GPIII's like M1 or PU,PP etc???

GPIII oils will get a engine down the road same miles along side GP IV oils.
 
That wasn't what he asked.

I do see your point and I have no problem with PP,PU, Edge, MC, Quaker State Ultimate Durability Synpower.. all are good oils in my opinion.

I think my engine would be laying on the side of the road using M1 like I used to.. shoot. my Iron was 76PPM [censored] is up with that... RP averages 6-9ppm under the same conditions

GOOD LORD, WHY WAS IT 11 TIMES HIGHER? I don't think my motor could have taken 76ppm wear for long....
 
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I tried RED LINE once.I had a 97 F150,8.8 non-LS.I bought 3 qts of their 75W140 differential oil to service my differential with.After a week the differential started whining. I had to have it rebuilt.I can't say the RL caused the problem,who knows,I could have accidentially got a bit of dirt in there,but I never used RL products again. I'm sure they are some of the best oils out there but the prices are way too high for most to use it.
 
Yes. It's a true synthetic which is why it's priced so high. The basestocks cost more.
If your vehicle is under warantee then you will have to find the API approved stuff. If no warantee the hps line is some pretty stout stuff.
The group 3/group 4 line is blurred now due to group 3's performing almost as well as the more expensive group 4's.
Unless you are seriously abusing or tracking the car the more expensive group 4 is likely overkill,unless you plan on extending the drain it's hard to get return on the additional cost.
Pennzoil platinum,mobil 1,Quaker state ultimate durability are all great oils,can be found on sale for the same price as conventional,and will serve most drivers more than adequately.
I like rp and have 30 quarts of the 10w30 as well as 40 quarts of the euro 5w-40 in my basement. So at some point this upcoming summer it will be in at least 2 of my vehicles(thinned a bit).
If cost isn't an issue then by all means it's great oil.
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Is RP a true synthetic oil,like AMSOIL and RED LINE?

Are you implying that other oils that are labeled "synthetic" somehow aren't "true?"


Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
And,is it priced so high because it is a true synthetic or are you just paying for the purple dye in it?

Royal Purple is a small company trying to use top-shelf ingredients. The price is going to be high just because they don't have the economies of scale that a big company does.


Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
How does it compare to AMSOIL and RED LINE?

It's purple and is sold in more mainstream auto parts stores.


Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Would you buy it before any other synthetic oil?

No. I don't see anything wrong with it, but I also don't see how it brings anything special to the table.

If I were going to use any product besides what I'm using right now, it would be something that carries actual third-party approvals.
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
I tried RED LINE once.I had a 97 F150,8.8 non-LS.I bought 3 qts of their 75W140 differential oil to service my differential with.After a week the differential started whining. I had to have it rebuilt.I can't say the RL caused the problem,who knows,I could have accidentially got a bit of dirt in there,but I never used RL products again. I'm sure they are some of the best oils out there but the prices are way too high for most to use it.


Really? I use shock proof in all my pumpkins and the transmission in my Harley. Not a single problem ever.
Ya. It's expensive but I never have to change it again. The Harley will go 40000 with it in the transmission
 
Doing more of a search on these 3 oils,RP,RL,and AMSOIL,it seems that RP is priced lower then the others,and more readily available. I'm guessing this is a major factor for attracting more people to choose it over the other 2. Or,is the add package better?
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Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
That wasn't what he asked.

I do see your point and I have no problem with PP,PU, Edge, MC, Quaker State Ultimate Durability Synpower.. all are good oils in my opinion.

I think my engine would be laying on the side of the road using M1 like I used to.. shoot. my Iron was 76PPM [censored] is up with that... RP averages 6-9ppm under the same conditions

GOOD LORD, WHY WAS IT 11 TIMES HIGHER? I don't think my motor could have taken 76ppm wear for long....

I know thats not what he asked i was commenting on you,Ive been using M1 since 1987 in everything from hot summer heavy towing to Sunday cruising and haven't lost a engine yet,if your FE was that high you had other problems other then lubrication IMO.
 
Yes, Group 3 top performers like Syntec, PU,PP, Quaker State Ultimate Durability, MC,T6, Synpower are ALL very very good oils that can be had cheaply.. I would run PU if there was no RP or GC just because of it's value. I see it for $20 with a Puro filter all the time.. Excellent combo in my opinion.
 
Originally Posted By: Clevy
The group 3/group 4 line is blurred now due to group 3's performing almost as well as the more expensive group 4's.

Not quite. It's actually because there are group 3 base stocks that take almost as much effort to make as group 4 base stocks, and are chemically similar in the end.

The "group 1/2/3/4/5" system is based on how the stuff is made and what it looks like at the end, not how "well" it performs.
 
Daman,
If that was the case, why would it CLEAR UP in just a couple of changes with RP.. which has shown low wear on 9 or more used oil analysis. it's the oil. what else.. the car has 215k and over 6k engine hours.. still runs fine.. Yes, I thought it had problems too. That hasn't been the case though.. it was the oil.. that was the ONLY thing I have done different.
Some say I had a bad stock of M1.. I had 25 qts or so at the time.. my used oil analysis was done over several changes of M1.. maybe that batch was tanted. I don't know.. I don't CARE.. I WILL NEVER EVER USE IT OR RECOMMEND IT AGAIN

2 back to back.. 74ppm/76ppm. I gave the rest of the oil away and went to RP.
 
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Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
Daman,
If that was the case, why would it CLEAR UP in just a couple of changes with RP.. which has shown low wear on 9 or more used oil analysis. it's the oil. what else.. the car has 215k and over 6k engine hours.. still runs fine.. Yes, I thought it had problems too. That hasn't been the case though.. it was the oil.. that was the ONLY thing I have done different.

How many back to back runs with M1 showed the high iron?
 
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Is RP a true synthetic oil


When I asked this Q? I was thinking back to the CASTROL SYNTEC claim that it is a "TRUE" synthetic oil. Does anyone remember this?

BTW,did CASTROL win the case as it being a "TRUE" synthetic oil?
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Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Is RP a true synthetic oil,like AMSOIL and RED LINE? And,is it priced so high because it is a true synthetic or are you just paying for the purple dye in it? How does it compare to AMSOIL and RED LINE? Would you buy it before any other synthetic oil?


18.gif
Please don't think this.


Whatever grade you are interested about, email them. They will tell you exactly what the base stock is. I think most are just group IV, but I think they have some group V in the 0w40.
 
Royal Purple is expensive and supposedly can handle extremes like no other "fake synthetic can". It's mainly designed for high horsepower cars, which produce a lot of heat and need an oil to handle all that heat.

If you're going to use it in your regular daily driver, i say, it's a waste of money and perfectly good oil.
 
Originally Posted By: d00df00d
Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
How does it compare to AMSOIL and RED LINE?

It's purple and is sold in more mainstream auto parts stores.


Originally Posted By: BlueOvalFitter
Would you buy it before any other synthetic oil?

No. I don't see anything wrong with it, but I also don't see how it brings anything special to the table.



Exactly. it's a fine oil that performs well. But it is very expensive. It's up to each user to figure that one out for themselves. My car works well without any purple dye in the oil.
 
Originally Posted By: DrDusty86
That wasn't what he asked.
....

I think my engine would be laying on the side of the road using M1 like I used to.. shoot. my Iron was 76PPM [censored] is up with that... RP averages 6-9ppm under the same conditions

GOOD LORD, WHY WAS IT 11 TIMES HIGHER? I don't think my motor could have taken 76ppm wear for long....


In my flat tappet Jeep 4.0, M1 had more than twice the iron in sample as any other oil tested. There may have been a similar situation in yours.
 
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