I would agree although taking some green scotchbrite to them for a min or 2 wouldnt hurt.I would replace pads with OEM and not touch the rotors if you are not having any issues.
Sienna/Highlander fronts rarely last more than 30-40K around here, regardless of brand. The front rotors often have hot spots as well.I'm surprised a HL would need brakes at only 65K.
THISFor $10/rotor, I’d resurface the OE.
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OP said plenty of meat left on original rotors. Spend $50 or $250. Tough call. Not.
Or you could spend nothing?OP said plenty of meat left on original rotors. Spend $50 or $250. Tough call. Not.
Yes, you're right. I thought you were advocating for him to purchase brand new rotors. Maybe resurfacing would be second choice after leaving them as is. Wouldn't turning them be better though if he's changing pads?Or you could spend nothing?
Why turn them if there is no reason to? He may pay $10 per rotor just to have someone make them worse.
If he had an on-car lathe I would say yes.Yes, you're right. I thought you were advocating for him to purchase brand new rotors. Maybe resurfacing would be second choice after leaving them as is. Wouldn't turning them be better though if he's changing pads?
The rear pads are down just below 3mm and front is about 4mm. For some reason it’s common for the rears to wear faster, but I’m not certain why. Perhaps because the front pads have a drag clips.. anywho this is pretty normal on this vehicle.I'm surprised a HL would need brakes at only 65K.
My 05 HL didn't need brakes for the 75K I owned it, we'll see how long they last on current 2015 HL.Sienna/Highlander fronts rarely last more than 30-40K around here, regardless of brand. The front rotors often have hot spots as well.
Last sentence of OP's post says dealer would do it with on car lathe. Fresh pads, fresh surface.If he had an on-car lathe I would say yes.
I don't think that was the point of his last sentence.Last sentence of OP's post says dealer would do it with on car lathe. Fresh pads, fresh surface.
Correct. If I take them to the dealer or anywhere else with an on-car brake lathe then I’m going to have to pay for labor and the service. By that point the cost is so high it wouldn’t make sense and I’d just let them do the entire brake job.I don't think that was the point of his last sentence.
He's saying that the dealer told him they can resurface a few times before hitting minimum thickness.
The OP's plan was to replace the rotors or remove them and take them to a local shop.
Bcs. size of rear pads on those vehicles is laughable.The rear pads are down just below 3mm and front is about 4mm. For some reason it’s common for the rears to wear faster, but I’m not certain why. Perhaps because the front pads have a drag clips.. anywho this is pretty normal on this vehicle.
Remember, you always have the option of doing what you want or feel is best for you (and need no "approval" from anyone else).So the consensus here seems to be bench lathes are too risky due to runout issues and I should either do nothing or (at most) sand the rotors myself?
Yeah and I appreciate that. I just like to ping all the experience here.Remember, you always have the option of doing what you want or feel is best for you (and need no "approval" from anyone else).
Why would he remove them and take them to a local shop, that'll still cost money plus the hassle of removing them. The cost difference of doing it with an on car lathe would be negligible compared to the aforementioned.I don't think that was the point of his last sentence.
He's saying that the dealer told him they can resurface a few times before hitting minimum thickness.
The OP's plan was to replace the rotors or remove them and take them to a local shop.