Redline...

Status
Not open for further replies.
Originally Posted By: DAB1123
Sorry, but his kind REALLY tick me off! I mean, so he doesn't care for AMSOIL. That still doesn't justify his telling outright LIES about it.


I have no problem whatsoever with Amsoil and have used lots of their products over the years. The fact remains Hatco developed and manufactured Amsoil's oils until the late 70s and there were other synthetic oils offered before Amsoil came onto the scene. Like I said, Amsoil's claim to fame is that they sold the first synthetic motor oil that was tested against (and passed) all of the API sequence tests of the day, but they did not offer the first synthetic oil...much less invent it.

As far as your assertion that Amsoil has "always" produced their own oil, see the post right before mine by Tom NJ.

No lies here...
 
Amsoil still buys their base stocks from multiple sources. They may blend all the ingredients in house, but the raw materials are made by other vendors and shipped in.

To this day, they will not disclose what vendors supply their base stocks, but will admit they buy from more than one vendor to eliminate production halts.
 
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
this is a kinda sad Thread - a Redline topic that is now "locked into" an Amsoil dispute - sad that!


Totally agree. Not even sure how it drifted. Don't think it was me!!
 
Originally Posted By: Pablo
Originally Posted By: Doug Hillary
Hi,
this is a kinda sad Thread - a Redline topic that is now "locked into" an Amsoil dispute - sad that!


Totally agree. Not even sure how it drifted. Don't think it was me!!


It started with Jeff commenting on his experience dealing with Amsoil's tech line, then this was said:

Originally Posted By: DAB1123
Yes, it does! All oils walk, or rather float on water.
I don't understand the "ANTI-AMSOIL" attitude by so many here. Fact is, AMSOIL Inc. INVENTED the World's First-Ever Synthetic Motor Oil. (Then known as :"AMZOIL") Everyone else, i.e. RL, RP, M1, etc. have simply followed in their footsteps. Also, if you look at their on-line product catalog, you'll see that they have the most extensive line of Products currently available. As for myself, I have ran nothing else in all of my vehicles & equipment for over 25 years & have NEVER had to replace ANY internal parts in anything! I'm not saying the others are not good, they are. But my choice of Synthetics (& realted Products) are AMSOIL.


...causing a slight shift in topic.
shocked.gif
 
I think it is a new guy who over-reacted. I noticed in his earlier post that he was banned from another website for spamming.

Here's hoping he can pick up the more reasoned and factual approach such as that used by Pablo, Tom NJ, and others above. Then it will be no big deal.
 
Hello everyone I have a little bit to disclose on the Redline front. First, I did comment on how poorly I was treated by Amsoil in their Sales Tact and lack of getting info back from them on certain subjects as one reason why I chose redline over amsoil. Then it took off from there. So it does seem there is one thing we all can agree on, Amsoil sales tact Sucks. Bottom Line. Now moving on.

I did buy the Redline 5/30 per Daves Recommendation and poured it in yesterday. This morning, I did notice something already, and it may seem trivial to some, but something of note. See, in my car, I am running the largest duration cams available for this motor and super stiff Crower valve springs. Turning the motor over is a Dyno Bat, or a mini battery that provides less cold cranking amps than the OEM battery. I needed this battery to make room for upgraded intercooler plumbing. Anyway, in the Cold months the car would not start that great. Always giving me the feeling of, come on baby, come on baby, haha, but it does always start. This morning when I started her up, The car turned over much easier.

Now this may seem trivial, but to a guy that has driven this car for 4 yrs, you notice things. Some can chalk it up to saying its just the "new" oil. But I can say this much, Even after fresh past oil changes with "other" brands of oil, the car didn't turn over this easily. So that impressed me.

Now when I was driving the car, I did notice something and I am not sure if its good or bad yet. Seems spool up of the turbo has decreased at low rpm. What would happen in the morning is I would get "surges" when my car was cold. Making the throttle very touchy. Too much throttle I would get "compressor surge" to little the car would buck on me. The Evo's with the 4G63 are known to be VERY cold blooded engines. So I drive the car ver conservitive till the car gets to temp. Now, that "surge" is gone, and had no "compressor surge" at all this morning. Thats the good In my mind. The bad? Seems the turbo takes more pedal to spool then before. So its a trade off. I am not sure what may be causing this, and not sure if it is anything but it is something I am noting in my log. I will do some Data logs to check at what exact rpms this happends.

I also noticed that "off throttle" my rpm's stay consistant, vs the previous oil the rpm's would go up and down up and down then settle. Now this is a trait of the Cams, they suck away allot of vacume from the rest of the car so off throttle and hit the brakes hard or whatever and the rpms drop fast. I could not get my car to do that. So I am not sure what is going on there, but the "off throttle" rpm drop is [censored] near gone that has been with me since I got these cams. I am curous about that and how the oil could possible help. It had to be the oil since that is the only thing I have changed.

I will keep logs of my MPG's (as I always do) oil temp averages, boost response, just everyting I can get out of my data logger, dyno, and my observations. This is something that will take time. But so far, I give it a thumbs up.

Oh yeah, couple things real quick. Has anyone noticed the "smell" of redline? I mean it actually smells good to me, not sure why that is, but it has a unique smell. Also the color. It looks like a mix of M1 from yesteryear, the really light amber, then mix that M1 with ATF a little that is what it looks like. Kinda a light amber redish color. I had to double check the bottle to make sure it was the 5/30 motor oil I ordered, haha. I will keep everyone posted. I am sending out the VOA on Monday Morning.

Jeff
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Oh yeah, couple things real quick. Has anyone noticed the "smell" of redline? I mean it actually smells good to me, not sure why that is, but it has a unique smell.


Red Line motor oils do have a unique smell.

Quote:
Also the color. It looks like a mix of M1 from yesteryear, the really light amber, then mix that M1 with ATF a little that is what it looks like. Kinda a light amber redish color.


Yep, it's normal. RL motor oils have a pink/light red hint to them.

Keep the updates coming...
 
Quote:
while PAOs cause seals to shrink and harden.


Hello Tom,

Is this due to the PAO actively degrading the seal material or is it due to PAO simply not providing any "nourishing" benefit to keep the seals pliable?

Thanks.
 
I'm running Redline 10W40 in the 928 right now. I like it very much. Cold flow is great, and pressure never falls, except at idle, of course. I like RP, too, but I think I've found my oil in Redline.
 
Originally Posted By: Tom NJ
Good question. I don't know. PAO is not very reactive, so it may be extracting something.

Tom NJ


I guess the question then becomes, what exactly happens with esters (or Grp I for that matter) that helps to keep seals "good"?

I'm no chemist, but I suspect that PAO doesn't harm the seals directly, so much as it doesn't "nourish" seals to keep them from degrading (from heat?).
 
Originally Posted By: Jeffs2006EvoIX
Seems spool up of the turbo has decreased at low rpm...Now, that "surge" is gone, and had no "compressor surge" at all this morning. Thats the good In my mind. The bad? Seems the turbo takes more pedal to spool then before.

I also noticed that "off throttle" my rpm's stay consistant, vs the previous oil the rpm's would go up and down up and down then settle.

Very cool to see someone who is so in "tune" with his car to notice these little things! I have also noticed a difference in startup speed (on my old Boxster S, the cranking rpm actually changed). I have also noticed very dramatic differences in turbo spool up (increases and decreases in lag) on my turbo GTI with different oils.

For the oil before this one, what was the HTHS viscosity? Was that previous oil a friction modified oil (i.e. contains lots of moly)? I'm wondering if these 2 factors may help explain the 2 observations quoted above.
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
Originally Posted By: Tom NJ
Good question. I don't know. PAO is not very reactive, so it may be extracting something.

Tom NJ


I guess the question then becomes, what exactly happens with esters (or Grp I for that matter) that helps to keep seals "good"?

I'm no chemist, but I suspect that PAO doesn't harm the seals directly, so much as it doesn't "nourish" seals to keep them from degrading (from heat?).


That makes the most sense. Rubber being a polymer expands and contracts with temperature variance. The PAO being lets say "neutral" other additves must be added to keep the seals from cracking. Granted these are high temp materials being used, but over time and many heat cycles, something needs to noursih the seals. I am sure the Esters or the PAO really play a huge role. They may just balace each other out to some extent. There are many additives to help combat seal problems, but what they are exactly I am sure is "top secret" like everything else in the oil business.
 
So far the Redline Oil seems to be very nice. The Engine is smoother, less noisy when reved, and the cold starts are just night and day. I was using a 10/30 prior now a 5/30 but in 40F weather either should start a car very easily. The only thing I can chalk it up to is the Redline is clinging to the metal parts making it easier to start. Thats my theory. All I know is engine noise is down, easier starts, and less RPM drop with my Race Cams. To be honest, I wasn't expecting any noticable change. I figured it would only show on the dyno with oil temps to be honest. But, I was wrong. There is a noticalbe differnece in several aspects of the engine that I have noticed.

I also just sent in the VOA with a TBN request today. When I get it back I will post it.

So far I am liking the Redline
01.gif
 
Originally Posted By: Tempest
I guess the question then becomes, what exactly happens with esters (or Grp I for that matter) that helps to keep seals "good"?


Esters and other polar compounds will plasticize the polymeric chemistry of the seals, which keeps them pliable.

Tom
 
Been considering RL 5W40 or 10W40 for my Ford GT500 5.4L motor rather than the thicker 5W50. Is there any issue with running RL 5W40, with its CI-4/CJ-4 classifications in a gasoline motor? What differences in the additives package are there in the 5W50 oil? I would expect the 5W50 TBN to be higher than the 10W40 oil.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top