With the miniscule overall cost of oil, why skimp when you're putting it into a $25,000+ car? If it were mine, I'd change it over to GC right away.
Recommended High Moly Dino for New Turbo Subaru?
- Thread starter tommersyip
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I think a lot is the driver,and common sense. As well as good maintenance.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: subiedriver
Synthetic only in turbo cars, dino will get coked up in the turbo and eventually fry it. GC would be a great choice, or Ultra.
This stuff cracks me up! I put 50,000 miles on my 84 Chrysler Laser Turbo using Pennzoil,and occasionally GTX 10W-30. And 3 to 4K oci`s. The car had 34,000 miles on it when I bought it! so I had no idea what was used before that. I was easy on the car when cold,laid off the turbo (as much as i could) before my destination. And let it idle for a bit before I turned it off. Maybe it was built better then today`s motors?
No offense, but I hope you aren't suggesting an oil for a brand new car based on your experiences with a 26 year old Chrysler?
Originally Posted By: subiedriver
Synthetic only in turbo cars, dino will get coked up in the turbo and eventually fry it. GC would be a great choice, or Ultra.
This stuff cracks me up! I put 50,000 miles on my 84 Chrysler Laser Turbo using Pennzoil,and occasionally GTX 10W-30. And 3 to 4K oci`s. The car had 34,000 miles on it when I bought it! so I had no idea what was used before that. I was easy on the car when cold,laid off the turbo (as much as i could) before my destination. And let it idle for a bit before I turned it off. Maybe it was built better then today`s motors?
No offense, but I hope you aren't suggesting an oil for a brand new car based on your experiences with a 26 year old Chrysler?
Just telling you my own personal experience. Use what ever makes you sleep good a night.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Just telling you my own personal experience. Use what ever makes you sleep good a night.
Pretty sure all turbo Dodge's had a water-cooled turbo as well. That helps a lot believe it or not. It isn't meant to pull a significant amount of heat away while driving although it does help I'm sure. The main point is when shut off on a hot summers day, the coolant acts as thermosiphon pumping heat away of from the turbo even after the cars is off preventing coking.
The new Forester may or may not have a watercooled turbo seeing as synthetic is now required. It should use synthetic IMO regardless.
Just telling you my own personal experience. Use what ever makes you sleep good a night.
Pretty sure all turbo Dodge's had a water-cooled turbo as well. That helps a lot believe it or not. It isn't meant to pull a significant amount of heat away while driving although it does help I'm sure. The main point is when shut off on a hot summers day, the coolant acts as thermosiphon pumping heat away of from the turbo even after the cars is off preventing coking.
The new Forester may or may not have a watercooled turbo seeing as synthetic is now required. It should use synthetic IMO regardless.
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+1 HollowEyes.
There's only one answer to the poster's question. Subaru requires synthetic 5W30 for all 2011 turbo's. Think warranty. Now that'll really make you sleep nights!
So now you only have one question left to answer.
Pick your brand.
There's only one answer to the poster's question. Subaru requires synthetic 5W30 for all 2011 turbo's. Think warranty. Now that'll really make you sleep nights!
So now you only have one question left to answer.
Pick your brand.
Originally Posted By: HollowEyes
The new engine in the 2011 Forester requires 5w30 synthetic now. The NA get 0w20 synthetic.
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2011.html#warranty
he's exactly right, on all new turbo 2011 models, synthetic is REQUIRED.
if you want to be really on the safe side, just use the subaru synthetic 5w-30
The new engine in the 2011 Forester requires 5w30 synthetic now. The NA get 0w20 synthetic.
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2011.html#warranty
he's exactly right, on all new turbo 2011 models, synthetic is REQUIRED.
if you want to be really on the safe side, just use the subaru synthetic 5w-30
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Originally Posted By: agam
Originally Posted By: HollowEyes
The new engine in the 2011 Forester requires 5w30 synthetic now. The NA get 0w20 synthetic.
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2011.html#warranty
he's exactly right, on all new turbo 2011 models, synthetic is REQUIRED.
if you want to be really on the safe side, just use the subaru synthetic 5w-30
Wow. Had no idea that the recommendation changed for the 2011 Turbo even though the engine didn't change at all. This does make sense though, I heard the Subaru turbo is hard on engine oil. I did want to use a high moly oil to ensure proper break in but if the factory is mandating synthetic... GC it is.
In reality I was hoping I could start hoarding a different type of oil but I guess not. Thanks all!
Originally Posted By: HollowEyes
The new engine in the 2011 Forester requires 5w30 synthetic now. The NA get 0w20 synthetic.
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2011.html#warranty
he's exactly right, on all new turbo 2011 models, synthetic is REQUIRED.
if you want to be really on the safe side, just use the subaru synthetic 5w-30
Wow. Had no idea that the recommendation changed for the 2011 Turbo even though the engine didn't change at all. This does make sense though, I heard the Subaru turbo is hard on engine oil. I did want to use a high moly oil to ensure proper break in but if the factory is mandating synthetic... GC it is.
In reality I was hoping I could start hoarding a different type of oil but I guess not. Thanks all!
Going beyond what type of oil to use, here's tip, let your vehicle idle for 20-30 seconds before turning it off, especially if you've been pushing it kinda hard. The extra oil flow will help cool down the turbo to help prevent future problems. This should be mentioned in your owners manual, but very very few people follow this.
Originally Posted By: tommersyip
Originally Posted By: agam
Originally Posted By: HollowEyes
The new engine in the 2011 Forester requires 5w30 synthetic now. The NA get 0w20 synthetic.
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2011.html#warranty
he's exactly right, on all new turbo 2011 models, synthetic is REQUIRED.
if you want to be really on the safe side, just use the subaru synthetic 5w-30
Wow. Had no idea that the recommendation changed for the 2011 Turbo even though the engine didn't change at all. This does make sense though, I heard the Subaru turbo is hard on engine oil. I did want to use a high moly oil to ensure proper break in but if the factory is mandating synthetic... GC it is.
In reality I was hoping I could start hoarding a different type of oil but I guess not. Thanks all!
Yep, it's required in the WRX and the engine is the same as previously. Are you sure the 2011 XT doesn't have the new engine? Is the new engine only in the n/a Forester so far?
Also, GC is SL rated. Make sure there isn't any funny language in the manual about that. More than likely, most of the oil talk in the manual is "recommended" and not "required". SoA has also been slow to get the word out on the synthetic requirement.
-Dennis
Originally Posted By: agam
Originally Posted By: HollowEyes
The new engine in the 2011 Forester requires 5w30 synthetic now. The NA get 0w20 synthetic.
http://www.cars101.com/subaru/forester/forester2011.html#warranty
he's exactly right, on all new turbo 2011 models, synthetic is REQUIRED.
if you want to be really on the safe side, just use the subaru synthetic 5w-30
Wow. Had no idea that the recommendation changed for the 2011 Turbo even though the engine didn't change at all. This does make sense though, I heard the Subaru turbo is hard on engine oil. I did want to use a high moly oil to ensure proper break in but if the factory is mandating synthetic... GC it is.
In reality I was hoping I could start hoarding a different type of oil but I guess not. Thanks all!
Yep, it's required in the WRX and the engine is the same as previously. Are you sure the 2011 XT doesn't have the new engine? Is the new engine only in the n/a Forester so far?
Also, GC is SL rated. Make sure there isn't any funny language in the manual about that. More than likely, most of the oil talk in the manual is "recommended" and not "required". SoA has also been slow to get the word out on the synthetic requirement.
-Dennis
Run Ultra, its SM rated, 5w-30.
I agree with the person on page 1 - a Subaru turbo charged engine is a very expensive high engineered high performance engine. Use ONLY synthetic. The main problem you will run into is HEAT, and super hot conventional oil will NOT protect at all.
Just change the oil at 3000 miles, and use a 3000 mile OCI, use ANY synthetic you wish, expecially my favorites are Quaker State, and NAPA or Valvoline synthetic. this advice is just because it is a Subaru turbo charged - I love my Subaru, so I treat it better than I would my pet dog: the purebred dog gets the best, and so should the thorough bred Subaru! and that's final!!! don't even think about dino.
Just change the oil at 3000 miles, and use a 3000 mile OCI, use ANY synthetic you wish, expecially my favorites are Quaker State, and NAPA or Valvoline synthetic. this advice is just because it is a Subaru turbo charged - I love my Subaru, so I treat it better than I would my pet dog: the purebred dog gets the best, and so should the thorough bred Subaru! and that's final!!! don't even think about dino.
Originally Posted By: sicko
Going beyond what type of oil to use, here's tip, let your vehicle idle for 20-30 seconds before turning it off, especially if you've been pushing it kinda hard. The extra oil flow will help cool down the turbo to help prevent future problems. This should be mentioned in your owners manual, but very very few people follow this.
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Yep, it's required in the WRX and the engine is the same as previously. Are you sure the 2011 XT doesn't have the new engine? Is the new engine only in the n/a Forester so far?
Also, GC is SL rated. Make sure there isn't any funny language in the manual about that. More than likely, most of the oil talk in the manual is "recommended" and not "required". SoA has also been slow to get the word out on the synthetic requirement.
-Dennis
Yeah, it's still got the timing belt which is one of the differentiators between the new N/A Forester's engine. The SL thing does jump at me a bit though, if the manual calls for SM or higher I will probably start a little mini-stash of PU 5W40 Euro if I can somehow persuade one of the local chains to carry it so I can buy it on sale
Originally Posted By: subiedriver
Run Ultra, its SM rated, 5w-30.
If I can't find the PU Euro 5W-40 locally, I am all over the PU 5W-30 if there is a SM rating requirement at least during the warranty period. I am not sure if its all the Formula One I watch with the "Helix" ads everywhere but I am digging the fact that SOPUS rebranded Helix Ultra as PU (i think?) and is somewhat available around here.
Going beyond what type of oil to use, here's tip, let your vehicle idle for 20-30 seconds before turning it off, especially if you've been pushing it kinda hard. The extra oil flow will help cool down the turbo to help prevent future problems. This should be mentioned in your owners manual, but very very few people follow this.
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
Originally Posted By: bluesubie
Yep, it's required in the WRX and the engine is the same as previously. Are you sure the 2011 XT doesn't have the new engine? Is the new engine only in the n/a Forester so far?
Also, GC is SL rated. Make sure there isn't any funny language in the manual about that. More than likely, most of the oil talk in the manual is "recommended" and not "required". SoA has also been slow to get the word out on the synthetic requirement.
-Dennis
Yeah, it's still got the timing belt which is one of the differentiators between the new N/A Forester's engine. The SL thing does jump at me a bit though, if the manual calls for SM or higher I will probably start a little mini-stash of PU 5W40 Euro if I can somehow persuade one of the local chains to carry it so I can buy it on sale
Originally Posted By: subiedriver
Run Ultra, its SM rated, 5w-30.
If I can't find the PU Euro 5W-40 locally, I am all over the PU 5W-30 if there is a SM rating requirement at least during the warranty period. I am not sure if its all the Formula One I watch with the "Helix" ads everywhere but I am digging the fact that SOPUS rebranded Helix Ultra as PU (i think?) and is somewhat available around here.
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If you're concerned with warranty, I agree with the others, an SM/SN rated synthetic is what I'd use.
Originally Posted By: tommersyip
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
It is less important in the city and much much more coming right off the highway on a rest stop.
For instance if you came off the highway and sat at a traffic light for 1-2 mins then could pull into your parking spot I wouldn't bother waiting. The time you spent at the light idling has already cooled it off a significant amount.
Now if you were doing highways speeds then turned right into a spot, no light, no slowing down then I'd give it a little time, 30 secs max. I tend to increase the revs a tad just to pump more oil through it before shutting down.
This is what I do and it's worked well, I even do it on non-turbo cars.
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
It is less important in the city and much much more coming right off the highway on a rest stop.
For instance if you came off the highway and sat at a traffic light for 1-2 mins then could pull into your parking spot I wouldn't bother waiting. The time you spent at the light idling has already cooled it off a significant amount.
Now if you were doing highways speeds then turned right into a spot, no light, no slowing down then I'd give it a little time, 30 secs max. I tend to increase the revs a tad just to pump more oil through it before shutting down.
This is what I do and it's worked well, I even do it on non-turbo cars.
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Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: tommersyip
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
It is less important in the city and much much more coming right off the highway on a rest stop.
For instance if you came off the highway and sat at a traffic light for 1-2 mins then could pull into your parking spot I wouldn't bother waiting. The time you spent at the light idling has already cooled it off a significant amount.
Now if you were doing highways speeds then turned right into a spot, no light, no slowing down then I'd give it a little time, 30 secs max. I tend to increase the revs a tad just to pump more oil through it before shutting down.
This is what I do and it's worked well, I even do it on non-turbo cars.
I think that mentality is why my old turbo did so well. For instance if I ran into a convenience store for a pack of cigarettes,I would let it idle. (I since quit smoking)
Originally Posted By: tommersyip
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
It is less important in the city and much much more coming right off the highway on a rest stop.
For instance if you came off the highway and sat at a traffic light for 1-2 mins then could pull into your parking spot I wouldn't bother waiting. The time you spent at the light idling has already cooled it off a significant amount.
Now if you were doing highways speeds then turned right into a spot, no light, no slowing down then I'd give it a little time, 30 secs max. I tend to increase the revs a tad just to pump more oil through it before shutting down.
This is what I do and it's worked well, I even do it on non-turbo cars.
I think that mentality is why my old turbo did so well. For instance if I ran into a convenience store for a pack of cigarettes,I would let it idle. (I since quit smoking)
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Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: tommersyip
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
It is less important in the city and much much more coming right off the highway on a rest stop.
For instance if you came off the highway and sat at a traffic light for 1-2 mins then could pull into your parking spot I wouldn't bother waiting. The time you spent at the light idling has already cooled it off a significant amount.
Now if you were doing highways speeds then turned right into a spot, no light, no slowing down then I'd give it a little time, 30 secs max. I tend to increase the revs a tad just to pump more oil through it before shutting down.
This is what I do and it's worked well, I even do it on non-turbo cars.
I think that mentality is why my old turbo did so well. For instance if I ran into a convenience store for a pack of cigarettes,I would let it idle. (I since quit smoking)
Not everyone has the benefit of common sense
Stick with the synthetic recommendation for the turbo H4.. consider it a small insurance fee.
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: tommersyip
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
It is less important in the city and much much more coming right off the highway on a rest stop.
For instance if you came off the highway and sat at a traffic light for 1-2 mins then could pull into your parking spot I wouldn't bother waiting. The time you spent at the light idling has already cooled it off a significant amount.
Now if you were doing highways speeds then turned right into a spot, no light, no slowing down then I'd give it a little time, 30 secs max. I tend to increase the revs a tad just to pump more oil through it before shutting down.
This is what I do and it's worked well, I even do it on non-turbo cars.
I think that mentality is why my old turbo did so well. For instance if I ran into a convenience store for a pack of cigarettes,I would let it idle. (I since quit smoking)
Not everyone has the benefit of common sense
Stick with the synthetic recommendation for the turbo H4.. consider it a small insurance fee.
Originally Posted By: webfors
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: tommersyip
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
It is less important in the city and much much more coming right off the highway on a rest stop.
For instance if you came off the highway and sat at a traffic light for 1-2 mins then could pull into your parking spot I wouldn't bother waiting. The time you spent at the light idling has already cooled it off a significant amount.
Now if you were doing highways speeds then turned right into a spot, no light, no slowing down then I'd give it a little time, 30 secs max. I tend to increase the revs a tad just to pump more oil through it before shutting down.
This is what I do and it's worked well, I even do it on non-turbo cars.
I think that mentality is why my old turbo did so well. For instance if I ran into a convenience store for a pack of cigarettes,I would let it idle. (I since quit smoking)
Not everyone has the benefit of common sense
Stick with the synthetic recommendation for the turbo H4.. consider it a small insurance fee.
I agree with you,if I had a turbo today,I would use Synthetic as well.I was fortunate I suppose.
Although I think the oil was rated for turbo use then. The Pennzoil,and Castrol GTX. But that goes back many years,so I may be wrong.
Originally Posted By: lexus114
Originally Posted By: Thermo1223
Originally Posted By: tommersyip
Yup, a couple of coworkers are Subaru-junkies. That is pretty much the first thing they told me about the turbo. Makes sense. I just hope my wife sticks with it. She looked iffy when we spoke about it.
It is less important in the city and much much more coming right off the highway on a rest stop.
For instance if you came off the highway and sat at a traffic light for 1-2 mins then could pull into your parking spot I wouldn't bother waiting. The time you spent at the light idling has already cooled it off a significant amount.
Now if you were doing highways speeds then turned right into a spot, no light, no slowing down then I'd give it a little time, 30 secs max. I tend to increase the revs a tad just to pump more oil through it before shutting down.
This is what I do and it's worked well, I even do it on non-turbo cars.
I think that mentality is why my old turbo did so well. For instance if I ran into a convenience store for a pack of cigarettes,I would let it idle. (I since quit smoking)
Not everyone has the benefit of common sense
Stick with the synthetic recommendation for the turbo H4.. consider it a small insurance fee.
I agree with you,if I had a turbo today,I would use Synthetic as well.I was fortunate I suppose.
Although I think the oil was rated for turbo use then. The Pennzoil,and Castrol GTX. But that goes back many years,so I may be wrong.
Stick with synthetic, it's already been stated that for 2011 onwards, the turbo Subarus need them.
As for what you intend to do, this follows the owners manual break-in procedure, right?
As for what you intend to do, this follows the owners manual break-in procedure, right?
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