Recommendation (Oct/'85) Toyota Land Cruiser FJ60

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Well, the 5w-50 is a bit thick, but would be okay for year round use, realistically speaking, in your climate. As for pricing, I don't know what that stuff would cost you down there. Up here, I'd be looking at about $11 a quart.

I'd think a 10w-30 HDEO would be a reasonable year round choice in your locale. It would have plenty of ZDDP, shouldn't be too expensive, and should be fairly easy to find.
 
YOUCH!! Just found the stuff on AutoZone and it is $8.99/qt on sale! Guess I will be sticking with another high ZDDP like Rotella T which is liks $17.99/gallon normal price and have seen as low as $12.99/gallon.
 
Originally Posted By: gregnash
YOUCH!! Just found the stuff on AutoZone and it is $8.99/qt on sale! Guess I will be sticking with another high ZDDP like Rotella T which is liks $17.99/gallon normal price and have seen as low as $12.99/gallon.


The DELO 400 LE 15w40 won't work?
 
Originally Posted By: yucca
Originally Posted By: gregnash
YOUCH!! Just found the stuff on AutoZone and it is $8.99/qt on sale! Guess I will be sticking with another high ZDDP like Rotella T which is liks $17.99/gallon normal price and have seen as low as $12.99/gallon.


The DELO 400 LE 15w40 won't work?


No it will, but from talking with others the chance that Costco will continually carry it is iffy. Of course would be my luck that I would start using it and then suddenly they would stop.

On a different note, the wife and I got back this afternoon with the Land Cruiser. She drove great, has a few issues that need to be fixed but all-in-all she got us from Salt Lake City to Carson City in our two day trip with no issues what so ever. She never went above 65mph but that was expected. Even the wife thought she was quite comfortable (which shocked the [censored] out of me that she said that) and was happy we got her!

Now starts the adventure of getting her running strong and consistent.
 
Thousands of them survived hundreds of thousands of miles on Castrol GTX or Valvoline XLD 20W-50
 
Originally Posted By: gregnash
Ok so here is all the information, I have spent the last week or two reading (IH8MUD member) and reading. There are lots of debates on what to use but with my "antique" flat tappet cam engine, and basically I need something with a higher ZDDP%. From my reading, the original oil used for these was SF rated oils so the ZDDP should be AT LEAST 1200/1100 for zinc/phosphorous to simulate that.


Hey, Mud member here as well, I also have an (87) FJ60. I have been using the VR1 for a couple years now and planned to do an oil change so that I can get this beast to pass smog. However, this time around when I got the oil the guys at Napa were telling me that the high zddp rating also clogs catalytic converters relatively quicker than without, and I have a difficult time passing smog as it is.

Of course it is way preferred to replace a cat than a cam, curious if you heard of this as well.

Found this thread when I was trying to figure out if any oils had better smog readings.
 
Originally Posted By: Shannow
Thousands of them survived hundreds of thousands of miles on Castrol GTX or Valvoline XLD 20W-50


Yep, and still do.

Any decent CI-4 15W-40 HDEO is my vote.
 
You have an absolutely beautiful vehicle there.

You may be over thinking what this engine needs. I spent some time with some late 70s and early 80's yota motors, both I4 and I6. They tend to be very overbuilt, solid low-rpm performance and not high-rpm screamers. The designs for those older engines share many similarities with older benz motors.... from casting shapes to double-chain timing chains. They do not run high spring tensions.

The only failure mode I ever saw in the I6 was cam erosion. My buddy had a horrible lead foot and flogged his I6 cressida through 2 engines. The bottom ends seemed very solid, but under his abuse the cams didn't get enough oil. Even then, they held together but it wasn't pretty. If I recall, the regulated oil pressure was not very high, but the light won't kick until you drop below ~7psi. I would suggest checking the oil pressure and staying with a 40wt oil. I think i ran our I4 on 20-50 for a while and it did fine with that as well.

Terrific vehicles.

oh, and even with his abuse, and 2 engines, that cressida transmission never missed a beat.
 
Originally Posted By: Gurr
Originally Posted By: gregnash
Ok so here is all the information, I have spent the last week or two reading (IH8MUD member) and reading. There are lots of debates on what to use but with my "antique" flat tappet cam engine, and basically I need something with a higher ZDDP%. From my reading, the original oil used for these was SF rated oils so the ZDDP should be AT LEAST 1200/1100 for zinc/phosphorous to simulate that.


Hey, Mud member here as well, I also have an (87) FJ60. I have been using the VR1 for a couple years now and planned to do an oil change so that I can get this beast to pass smog. However, this time around when I got the oil the guys at Napa were telling me that the high zddp rating also clogs catalytic converters relatively quicker than without, and I have a difficult time passing smog as it is.

Of course it is way preferred to replace a cat than a cam, curious if you heard of this as well.

Found this thread when I was trying to figure out if any oils had better smog readings.


This is part of the reasoning behind the lower ZDDP% oils of todays cars. The higher ZDDP oils do burn up cats but not something that changing suddenly would kill your cat. If you havent had it changed and it is still original then more than likely it is already dead and needs a good replacement. There are multiple other things that go into not passing smog as well, it really depends. Post up your smog numbers in the 60 forum on MUD and the guys will help out with what you got. It could really be anything from you gas cap venting to much (Both OrangeFJ45 and SpikeStrip have stated this as a cause of not passing smog) to something like your smog pump is clogged but still running or the cat is completely burnt.
 
Originally Posted By: gregnash

This is part of the reasoning behind the lower ZDDP% oils of todays cars. The higher ZDDP oils do burn up cats but not something that changing suddenly would kill your cat. If you havent had it changed and it is still original then more than likely it is already dead and needs a good replacement. There are multiple other things that go into not passing smog as well, it really depends. Post up your smog numbers in the 60 forum on MUD and the guys will help out with what you got. It could really be anything from you gas cap venting to much (Both OrangeFJ45 and SpikeStrip have stated this as a cause of not passing smog) to something like your smog pump is clogged but still running or the cat is completely burnt.


smog wise I have definitely done just about everything, gas cap, smog pump went out couple years ago, new air injection rail, cat replaced recently(so not like it has to be done soon), cleaned the archaic o2 sensor in the cat, lean dropped the carb (rebuilt), vacuum lines replaced(all 30ft of it!).

I rebuilt the motor a couple years ago as well. My smog guy has told me that because the head was machined and the cylinders were bored out a bit, the area change could be causing higher(or lower) compression, forgot which one, and that that could be affecting my readings.

Luckily, The Cruiser isn't my main mode of transportation anymore, so smog passing is on the back-burner.
 
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yeah best thing is to post up your numbers on MUD and see what the guys come up with. I live in a no emission county so I can desmog to my hearts content!!
 
Originally Posted By: meep
You have an absolutely beautiful vehicle there.

You may be over thinking what this engine needs. I spent some time with some late 70s and early 80's yota motors, both I4 and I6. They tend to be very overbuilt, solid low-rpm performance and not high-rpm screamers. The designs for those older engines share many similarities with older benz motors.... from casting shapes to double-chain timing chains. They do not run high spring tensions.


[snip]


Except the F and 2F engines are based on a Chev 6
wink.gif
 
I had a 1989 FJ62 Land Cruiser that I purchased new in 1989 for 19K. It had the same 4.0L as the FJ60, but an auto trans. I owned it for 13 years + 340K miles. It was bone stock except for Bilstein shocks and Hella headlights. There was a 19 year old kid down the street that bugged me for several years to sell it to him. In a weak moment I sold it to him for 15K. I used Toyota factory filters and M1 15-50 changed every 7.5K. The only thing I ever had to replace was tires and fluids and new brakes at 220K. The most trouble free car I've ever owned. slower than a turtle and got only 13 mpg.. But it was built like a brick and tough as a rock. It was rust free when I sold it. It is the only car I wish I still owned.
 
Originally Posted By: gregnash
Originally Posted By: yucca
Originally Posted By: gregnash
YOUCH!! Just found the stuff on AutoZone and it is $8.99/qt on sale! Guess I will be sticking with another high ZDDP like Rotella T which is liks $17.99/gallon normal price and have seen as low as $12.99/gallon.


The DELO 400 LE 15w40 won't work?


No it will, but from talking with others the chance that Costco will continually carry it is iffy. Of course would be my luck that I would start using it and then suddenly they would stop.



I've been shopping at costco since they were called price club back in the day. To my memory they have only switched their HDEO 15W-40 oils 3 times in more than 20 years. They went from Delvac to Rotella T, and now to Delo (all 15W-40). I would venture to say any of these HDEO oils would do well in that engine year around, unless your temps are going to drop well below 20 deg F.
Besides if you are partial to Delo, you can pick it up on sale at any Autozone or AAP on sale at least 3 to 4 times per year. And if you're close to a any walmart, that's another place that sells Delo just as cheap as any costco would (with exception of when costco has the instant $7 rebate on their HDEO's).
 
[/quote]

Except the F and 2F engines are based on a Chev 6
wink.gif
[/quote]

exactly... landcruiser engines up to 95-96 (before they changed to the V8 version in 97), were all based on a 60's buick V6 block.
 
Originally Posted By: Nyati





Both my FJ40 and FJ62 Landcruisers were straight 6s not v6s.



So, too, was my buddy's mid-1990's land cruiser. Where does this v-6 comment come from? Were there different engines for different regions of the globe?
 
The FJ series up to the FZJ80 (1996) was all based on the straight six chevy block. From there Mr. T added the V8 engine.

As for the HDEO DELO from Costco, it does not often get below 20* during the winter here but it does occasionally. Which is why I am thinking that a 10W30 may be a better bet. It is the end of October and this morning while riding to work it was 36*, so I have a feeling we are in for a cold winter.
 
Originally Posted By: dnewton3
Originally Posted By: Nyati





Both my FJ40 and FJ62 Landcruisers were straight 6s not v6s.



So, too, was my buddy's mid-1990's land cruiser. Where does this v-6 comment come from? Were there different engines for different regions of the globe?


No that was my bad..I meant to straight I-6, not V6. Gregnash is correct.

There are some I-4 diesel variants of the mid-90's landcruiser in Asia, Europe, and parts of the middle-east, however... but they have shorter drive-train, than the regular I-6 landcruiser we got in the states (king of like the range rover LWB, and SWB versions they made for a few years during the mid-90's).

And if I remember correctly the shorter wheelbase landcruisers are called prado landcruisers.
 
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