Reasons NOT to use Kirkland 0w-20 or 5W-30 Synthetic...?

Brian123 said:
I just looked in my Garage and realized there was a Box I had with Garbage Bags, and it said Kirkland on it. I want to buy Motor Oil from a company, and I will not names, that only deals with Motor Oil.
Click to expand...
I applaud your diligence.
On the other hand I take Kirkland vitamins and eat Kirkland yogurt every day so using their oil in my Chevy seems like one of my lower risk behaviors.
 
silversport said:
t I want to protect the eking as best I can and especially with having a turbocharger...

0W-20 full synthetic but I think he wants to keep closer to what the manual recommends for liability reasons...
Click to expand...
If you want to protect the thing IMHO you should use a 30 wt oil. The turbo shears down oil as seen in my analysis

I switched to Valvoline EP 5W-4. My FA20 Turbo recommended 30 wt. I have used 40 wt. I now have 48 K on the engine. I will do an analysis soon.

R34862-8.png
 
I appreciate ALL the answers and shared experiences here...thank you for taking the time!

my goal is to give my Subaru a quality product that will meet or exceed what the factory recommends without me making any mistakes merely to save a buck...

that said, the Kirkland 0W-20 meets or exceeds and should be $15ish starting this Wednesday...

...but I also acknowledge as mentioned in this thread that there are better choices available and the cost may be as little as $10 more for the 5 quart jug...

I have some 5W-30 full synthetic Mobil 1 Truck and SUV as well as Quaker State Full Synthetic that I could use as we enter the warmer weather here in ChicagoLand or I could get the oil I'm leaning most to: Mobil 1 ESP (0W-20/0W-30/5W-30) or just use Kirkland...I haven't decided for sure just yet but I need to make a decision before Thursday this upcoming week so...

thanks for giving me many choices to consider...

Bill
 
silversport said:
I appreciate ALL the answers and shared experiences here...thank you for taking the time!

my goal is to give my Subaru a quality product that will meet or exceed what the factory recommends without me making any mistakes merely to save a buck...

that said, the Kirkland 0W-20 meets or exceeds and should be $15ish starting this Wednesday...

...but I also acknowledge as mentioned in this thread that there are better choices available and the cost may be as little as $10 more for the 5 quart jug...

I have some 5W-30 full synthetic Mobil 1 Truck and SUV as well as Quaker State Full Synthetic that I could use as we enter the warmer weather here in ChicagoLand or I could get the oil I'm leaning most to: Mobil 1 ESP (0W-20/0W-30/5W-30) or just use Kirkland...I haven't decided for sure just yet but I need to make a decision before Thursday this upcoming week so...

thanks for giving me many choices to consider...

Bill
Click to expand...
Any of the ESP’s or Truck & SUV would be perfect. Your piston rings will thank you in the long run, believe me.
 
Bill7 said:
I have 3 Honda Odysseys (2006-2007) EX-L's with the VCM enabled, and with the poorly designed PCV, which makes the cylinder heads get extremely hot and cooks the oil. Some SME mechanics on BITOG have commented that this engine is harder on the oil than any engine they've ever experienced.

I've been using Super Tech HMFS 5W-30 for over 3 years with 5,000 mle oil changes with no issues whatsoever. Super Tech and Kirkland brands are the same oil. Both are made by Warren Distribution. I wouldn't hesitate using Super Tech / Kirkland synthetic oil in any use case (Even with a Ford Ecoboost twin turbo with it's miles of long timing chains). I hope this helps you in your decision making.
Click to expand...
I don’t know what issues one would expect, but this could be quite an endorsement when you consider that my personal J35a7 has gotten terribly varnished using what I thought were premium branded oils. Always “full” synthetic PP or M1.

I can vouch for j35 being hard on oil. And if the Kirkland is giving “no problems”, that’s something to consider.

Then again, VRP is actually cleaning the mess of 18 years of other oils. At this point, even a free oil isn’t cheap enough to get me to leave VRP.
 
I, like the OP have a new Outback (but mine's a Wilderness) FA24 in the house. I did a filter change at 500 miles, and now that we've cracked 1000 miles it's time to change the oil (and filter again.) I've got a stockpile of Subaru 15208AA160 (black JDM) filters, we're good there as they're the know best. For oil, I'm going M1 ESP 0W-30 as so many have suggested to do. Wallyworld had it (plenty of it too) and Costco is close as well for their Kirkland stuff, but I'm going to try the Euro spec M1. Y'all are a serious wealth of knowledge and I trust in that no doubt.

Plan on running this whip until it dies. I'm 62 and may very well be the last car I buy, so I'd like it take me a long, long way. I don't drive much these days (retired with chronic back pain) but when I do drive I make sure and drive it long enough to get the car up to NOT. For oil temps, that's right around ~ 200 deg F range. I won't drive 6k miles in 6 months, so I'll just plan on oil/filter changes every 6 months. I bought a ValvoMax drain system (had it on my last Scoob, 22 FB25 NA) and works perfect. I actually like it better than the Fumoto valve.

Best - Mack
 
MackDaddy1962 said:
I, like the OP have a new Outback (but mine's a Wilderness) FA24 in the house. I did a filter change at 500 miles, and now that we've cracked 1000 miles it's time to change the oil (and filter again.) I've got a stockpile of Subaru 15208AA160 (black JDM) filters, we're good there as they're the know best. For oil, I'm going M1 ESP 0W-30 as so many have suggested to do. Wallyworld had it (plenty of it too) and Costco is close as well for their Kirkland stuff, but I'm going to try the Euro spec M1. Y'all are a serious wealth of knowledge and I trust in that no doubt.

Plan on running this whip until it dies. I'm 62 and may very well be the last car I buy, so I'd like it take me a long, long way. I don't drive much these days (retired with chronic back pain) but when I do drive I make sure and drive it long enough to get the car up to NOT. For oil temps, that's right around ~ 200 deg F range. I won't drive 6k miles in 6 months, so I'll just plan on oil/filter changes every 6 months. I bought a ValvoMax drain system (had it on my last Scoob, 22 FB25 NA) and works perfect. I actually like it better than the Fumoto valve.

Best - Mack
Click to expand...
Congrats on the Wilderness!! Good oil choice.
 
Thank you Glenda W! She's a beast no doubt. Subaru under-rated the HP & Tq figures on the FA24. Published 260HP & 277Tq at the crank. Cobb dyno'd a stock setup and got ~250WHp & ~287WTq. Wow. If those numbers are truly to be accurate (of which they probably are,) that's impressive to say the least. On 87 octane pump gas. Grandpa's go fast wagon.. :cool:
 
Jpc1623 said:
Mack I’m 68, bad back, knee, shoulder and hand…EXTRACTING the oil with these Subis. Never go underneath again. I use a one and get all the oil less 1/4 cup.
Click to expand...
Man I'm sorry to hear that brother, get'n old ain't for sissies.. no doubt. I've got a really nice extractor I've been using for years, but couldn't get it to work well with the previous 2022 Subaru FB25 powerplant. Baffles in the way galore. I'm going to give it a try on the FA24, as you're right.. getting under the car these days in not appealing at all. I hope I can get it to work.. I'm going to try it today.

Here's what I've got, it's worked flawlessly on my previous Honda's and all my lawn equipment. Wish me luck!

2v2aj6BUnx9T3R.jpg
 
Hohn said:
I don’t know what issues one would expect, but this could be quite an endorsement when you consider that my personal J35a7 has gotten terribly varnished using what I thought were premium branded oils. Always “full” synthetic PP or M1.

I can vouch for j35 being hard on oil. And if the Kirkland is giving “no problems”, that’s something to consider.

Then again, VRP is actually cleaning the mess of 18 years of other oils. At this point, even a free oil isn’t cheap enough to get me to leave VRP.
Click to expand...
I have a 2006 Honda Odyssey EX-L which also has the deep orange varnish on the cylinder heads right under the valve cover.
This was discovered when I had the valve cover gasket replaced right after buying it from it's original owner (before I switched to Super Tech HMFS 5W-30).

Would you know if the Valvoline R&P is making any progress on removing the varnish? If so, I will try it.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

P
BMW oil change with 20% non-certified synthetic 0w-20
Replies
16
Views
875
JohnnyJohnson
B
PUP 5W-30 observations - Getting darker and burning faster than Kirkland?
Replies
16
Views
779
goingplacesanddoingstuff
S
Mechanic used thick oil
Replies
17
Views
816
svdb71
Z
Mobil 1 5w-30 ESP…….use it in everything?
Replies
18
Views
524
wavinwayne
F
0W-20 or 5W-30 for a Plug-in Hybrid (Subaru)
2 3 4
Replies
70
Views
1K
DirectRejection
Back
Top Bottom