It's making significant progress. He has posted photos.
Reasons NOT to use Kirkland 0w-20 or 5W-30 Synthetic...?
- Thread starter silversport
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well on Wednesday it should be $15 and change for a 5 quart jug and SuperTech is at least $18 and change...others with the rebate is a bit more than that...Kirkland needs no rebate but if it's not a good oil I'd like to hear it...it seems to be good oil (and should be the same as SuperTech and Amazon Basics)
Bill
I have a concern with Mobil 1 ESP because of Lake Speed's latest video about "Diesel" motor oil and some of the high Calcium figures I've seen in those using that oil as my engine is Direct Injected...LSPI concerns...at least with a Dexos 1 Gen3 rating I know that lower Calcium for LSPI protection is something they tout...I just don't want to be penny wise and pound foolish...
Bill
Bill
It absolutely is removing that deep varnish from my odyssey, and I’ve posted pictures here.
Patman
Staff member
Calcium levels in 5w30 ESP are not high, they are roughly the same as all of the other versions of M1 and other PCMOs
Mobil 1 ESP 0w30 is not an HDEO, though it can be used in high performance diesels. It carries some of the most stringent gas approvals in the world. It passes SP engine test requirements which certainly aren’t stringent.
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I have used Kirkland oil for years on and off in my vehicles excluding the Corvette. My Civic loves it and doesn't use any oil and I am at almost 151,000 miles. I use it on and off in my Ford F-150 V8 too and use 0W-20 in both of them.
For the price it’s hard to beat when Costco offers deal especially for your short change interval requirements, I run it in several of my brothers vehicles and wife’s Durango on occasion. I bought the max of five boxes last time.
The Truck & SUV is no slouch either. That’s another great option if you’re not totally on board with euro oils.thanks guys...that helps a LOT...
Bill
I was thinking of switching to SuperTech HMFS for our 2010 Nissan as it's getting up there in milage. How long have you been running HMFS?
For 3 years. The Dexos 1 Gen 3 approval that it has gives more protection against Sludge and Varnish deposits than API SP as per the Lubrizol website. I do 5,000 mile / 6 month oil changes on my 3 Honda Odyssey J35 engine’s with VCM enabled and which has a poorly designed PCV which causes the top cylinder heads to get extremely hot and cook the oil.
If you do switch to Super Tech, I recommend buying an exact knife from Amazon as it makes removing the spout protection on the Super Tech containers really easy. I just cut about 95% of the circumference off of the plastic spout protection and then pull it off holding a folded napkin and discard it. I then wipe the blade of the exact knife to remove any oil with a clean napkin, and then a 2nd napkin that has some soap and water on it.
I watched your YouTube videos and subscribed to your channel. Thanks for showing the actual cleaning of the Valvoline Restore and protect on the 2005 Hond Odyssey with 215k miles.
One question: Have you tried 4 OCI of 1 quart HPL EC30 and 3.5 quarts any full synthetic. Wondering if it would clean varnish equally as well as Valvoline Restore and Protect?
I’ve only used Ec30 in another vehicle, Did a quart with the rest PCMO in my gx460. Haven’t drained yet.
I think if you're doing 3-4k OCIs, then Kirkland oil will be great. But for a few bucks more you could get a nice oil with more approvals.
I personally think the issues with the Subaru engines burning oils even on 5k OCIs are from the OCI not the quality of the oil. Car Care Nut and others recommend 3k OCIs for the newer turbo engines. You might also consider letting your car idle for a minute after you park to let things cool down. Or at least keep the RPMs down for a little bit before you approach where you're going to park.
This is obviously geared towards Toyotas, but lots to take away from it as well.
They are actually not they likely filter at 30 microns where Fram Ultra/Titanium filter at 20 microns.
Don't fret about the intake valves carboning up. They are gonna' do that no matter what. I have done 5 cleanings with the CRC stuff and subaru has done the cleaning with their product. I have 48K on my Forester XT and will get the walnut blasting done shortly.
Nice post. I think the misconception that many turbo owners have is that somehow the more expensive Group III Synthetic oils (Mobil 1 or Pennzoil) are better than other Group III Synthetic oils (Super Tech / Kirkland). I see all Group III oils as basically the same.
The only thing that will help them is oils which have the unusual property of cleaning existing stuck piston rings:
Group III Valvoline Restore & Protect (Due to it's secret ingredient that disolves carbon deposits)
or
Group IV HPL with it's high dose of Ester's + AN.
All other Group III's (Mobil 1, Pennzoil, Castrol, Super Tech, Kirkland) are all in the category as: "Not preventing the stuck piston rings"
on engines with piston ring design defects that have pistion ring holes that don't allow proper flow of oil to the piston rings (causing the extreme heat that causes deposits that gets the piston rings stuck). For those engines, 3k OCI with any Group III oil should help.
Perhaps the best solution is four 5k OCI with Valvoline Restore & Protect, perhaps followed by perpetual 5k OCI with Valvoline Restore and Protect.
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That's a good summary. Thanks for putting that all together.
Does HPL not have any group III? I don't know.
Is part of the difference among Supertech and Kirkland vs more expensive OTS brands like Pennzoil, QS, Castrol, M1 the percentage of group III? Kind of like how the new AMSOIL synthetic blend is 50% synthetic whereas a lot of other synthetic blends are maybe 5-10% synthetic? M1 ESP 0W-30 at least has some esters too which you don't find in the Warren Distribution oils.
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Is it confirmed through any sources that r&p is comprised of only group 3?